The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit | |
= purl | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter Wheat |
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Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Puna or DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked top down with textured pattern on the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 206-48 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 4 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE SLEEVES: Work as far as the mid-stitch on the sleeve (= stitch with marker), * knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from*-* a total of 2 times in the same stitch, knit 1 in the same stitch (= 4 stitches increased in the same stitch). Repeat on the other sleeve. The new stitches are worked into pattern A.2. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease in the different sizes as follows: Sizes L and XXXL: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, purl 1 (marker in this stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased). Sizes XL and XXL: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, knit 3 (marker in the middle stitch of these 3), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Stocking stitch is worked on the front and back pieces, textured pattern on the sleeves. NECK: Cast on 100-108-108-116-116-124 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Puna. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) in the round for 3 cm. Insert a marker here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! YOKE: Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work pattern as follows: Knit the first 4-6-6-8-8-10 stitches and increase at the same time 4-2-4-2-5-4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP, work A.1 over the next stitch, insert a marker thread here (= transition between half back piece and right sleeve), work A.2 over the next 40 stitches, work the first stitch in A.2, insert a marker thread here (= transition between right sleeve and front piece), work A.3 over the next stitch, knit 7-11-11-15-15-19 stitches and increase at the same time 7-4-7-3-9-7 stitches evenly spaced, A.1 over the next stitch, insert a marker thread here (= transition between front piece and left sleeve), work A.2 over the next 40 stitches, work the first stitch in A.2, insert a marker thread here (= transition between left sleeve and half back piece), work A.3 over the next stitch, knit 3-5-5-7-7-9 stitches and increase at the same time 3-2-3-1-4-3 stitches evenly spaced = 118-120-126-126-138-142 stitches on the needle. There is now 1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Insert 1 marker in the mid-stitch on each sleeve (= knitted stitch). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in the round with pattern A.2 between the marker threads on the sleeves and A.1/A.3 + stocking stitch over the stitches on the front and back pieces – AT THE SAME TIME on round 3 in A.1/A.3 start INCREASE SLEEVES – read description above (= 4 stitches increased on each sleeve). Increase like this every 8th-8th-6th-6th-4th-4th round a total of 6-7-10-11-13-14 times. When A.1 and A.3 have been completed in height continue to repeat towards the raglan-lines 7-8-9-10-11-12 more times (a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times), then work the first 3-3-1-1-0-0 rounds in the diagrams. When all the increases to sleeves and front and back pieces are finished there are 302-328-366-390-430-458 stitches on the needle (24-28-40-44-52-56 stitches increased on each sleeve and 35-39-41-45-48-52 stitches increased on each side of the front and back pieces). The piece now measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this continue working to the correct length. The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 44-48-52-56-62-67 stitches (= approx. half back piece), place the next 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 9-9-9-11-11-13 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 86-95-102-110-122-132 stitches (= front pieces), place the next 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 9-9-9-11-11-13 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 42-47-50-54-60-65 stitches (= approx. half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: There are 190-208-222-242-266-290 stitches on the body. Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 21 cm. Work an edge with pattern A.2 in the round. When the edge measures 4 cm, Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-78-90-96-104-110 stitches. Work pattern A.2 in the round as before. The pattern should fit on the round. Work as follows in the different sizes: Sizes S, M: Work textured pattern until the sleeve measures 41-39 cm from the division. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work textured pattern until the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division. Insert a marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve. On the next round begin to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-4-4-4 times = 82-88-96-102 stitches. Continue with textured pattern until the sleeve measures 38-37-36-34 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (85)
Giuditta wrote:
Buonasera, Non riesco a capire come fare gli aumenti alla fine di A1/A3. Iniziano sempre al terzo giro?
06.05.2024 - 21:58Lakhy wrote:
I need help with the pattern. What do you mean by increases to raglan-lines? After how many rows do I increase?
07.02.2024 - 22:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Lakhy, you have to increase as before at the beg of front/back piece and at the end of front/back piece, just as you did before with A.1 and A.3. You start increasing on first row in yoke and repeat the increases on body a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times on every other round, and at the same increase for sleeves as explained for your size. Happy knitting!
08.02.2024 - 08:42Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Bonjour,\r\nJe voudrais simplement vous remercier infiniment pour vos explications (très claires).\r\nEnfin, j\'ai compris !\r\nmerci encore pour votre aide...\r\nIsabelle
07.06.2023 - 13:15Francesconi Isabelle wrote:
On est bien d'accord qu'il s'agit du 1er rang de A1, A2 et A3 ?
06.06.2023 - 18:26Francesconi Isabelle wrote:
Merci de votre réponse. Mais je ne comprends toujours pas. Pour moi : je tricote 10 mailles, je tricote A1(1m, 1 jeté), je pose un marqueur, je tricote 40 mailles, je tricote la 1ère maille de A2, je pose yn marqueur, je tricote la 2ème maille de A2, puis A3, puis 11 +7, A1, marqueur, 40 mailles, 1ere m de A2, marqueur,,2ème m de A2, A3, 5 + 3. Ou est mon erreur ? Je pensais mettre le fil au milieu de la manche à la 21 ème maille. Et dans cette maille faire les augmentations....
06.06.2023 - 18:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Francesconi, à la fin du 1er tour, vous devez avoir ceci: 10 m end + 2 m A.1 (marqueur = demi-dos), 41 m de A.2, (marqueur = manche), 2 m de A.3, 18 m end, 2 m de A.1, (marqueur = devant), 41 m de A.2, (marqueur), 2 m de A.3 et 8 m end (demi-dos) = 10+2+41+2+18+2+41+2+8=126 mailles. Placez le marqueur dans la 21ème maille des manche (soit 20 m de A.2, 1 m avec marqueur, 20 m de A.2), et augmentez ensuite dans cette maille. Bon tricot!
07.06.2023 - 09:09Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse. Aussi, pour l'empiècement, si je prends la taille L, je ne tombe pas sur 126 mailles comme indiqué, mais 128 ! Je me trompe ? (10+2+40+2+2+11+7+2+2+40+2+5+3=128)
06.06.2023 - 15:00DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Francesconi , il vous manque juste 2 mailles dans votre décompte: vous tricotez 40 mailles de A.2 puis la 1ère maille de A.2 pour que le motif soit symétrique, je cite: A.2 au-dessus des 40 mailles suivantes, tricoter la première maille de A.2,; puis vous tricotez A.3 (1 m + 1 jeté = 2 m) ainsi, vous aurez bien vos 126 mailles: 10+2+41+2+11+7+2+41+2+5+3= 126 m. Bon tricot!
06.06.2023 - 17:13Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Bonjour, dans aug. des manches, tricoter 1 maille endroit, 1 jeté et 2 fois ceci dans la même maille. quelle maille ? pouvez-vous me l'expliquer différemment svp ? Merci d'avance Isabelle
05.06.2023 - 17:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, vous allez tricoter 5 fois la même maille, autrement dit, tricotez cette maille 1 fois à l'endroit, faites 1 jeté, tricotez cette maille encore 1 fois à l'endroit, faites 1 jeté, et tricotez cette maille encore 1 fois à l'endroit = vous avez 5 mailles sur l'aiguille (les 3 fois + les 2 jetés). Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter 3 fois la même maille, procédez de la même façon jusqu'à ce que vous ayez 5 mailles sur l'aiguille droite (et non 3 comme dans la vidéo). Bon tricot!
05.06.2023 - 17:40Petra wrote:
Hallo, stricke in XL, habe Probl. bei dem A2 Muster am Arm, nach der ersten Runde mit den Mark.: halb. Rückteil endet mit A1 (U 1re), Mark, dann 41 M re( A2), Mark, A3 (U 1re) , 18 re M incl Zunahmen, 1re U (A1), Mark, 41Mre (A2), Mark, 1U (A3), 8M re incl Zunahme- wo beginne ich zu zählen, wenn die mittlere Masche rechts sein soll? Ist das die 20. M nach dem Marker? D.h., 2 re M und dann erst li, re etc- Die Ragl zun. A1/ A3 sind stets nur nach den Armen? DANKE!
10.01.2023 - 14:13DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Petra, A.2 wird über 41 Maschen gestrickt: die ersten 20 Maschen stricken Sie: (1 M rechts, 1 M kraus rechts)x10, die nächste Masche ist die erste Masche von A.2 = 1 Masche rechts, dann stricken Sie A.2 weiter bis alle 41 Maschen gestrickt sind, das Muster A.2 auf jeden Ärmel beginnt und endet mit der 1. Masche A.2 (und die mittlere Masche ist auch eine rechte Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
11.01.2023 - 09:12Lia wrote:
Ciao, posso terminare le maniche con un lavoro a coste come fatto per il collo? nel caso devo diminuire la dimensione dei ferri e/o il numero di maglie? Grazie
14.09.2022 - 12:02DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lia, può diminuire il numero di ferri e se vuole le maniche più aderenti, anche il numero di maglie: le consigliamo di provare il lavoro e adattare la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!
14.09.2022 - 19:27Lia wrote:
Ciao, posso terminare le maniche con un lavoro a coste come fatto per il collo? nel caso devo diminuire la dimensione dei ferri e/o il numero di maglie? Grazie!
14.09.2022 - 12:01DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lia, può diminuire il numero di ferri e se vuole le maniche più aderenti, anche il numero di maglie: le consigliamo di provare il lavoro e adattare la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!
14.09.2022 - 19:28