The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= =K from RS, P from WS |
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= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= K 2 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Morning Star |
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Knitted DROPS jumper worked in a square with leaf pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 167-4 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Body worked in 2 parts from mid front / mid back. Piece is first worked in the round, then worked back and forth. Cast on and work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Finish by working the sleeves. FRONT PIECE: Cast on 8 sts with Paris and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm (= 2 sts on every needle). Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of A.1 in width). When the first 21 rounds in A.1 have been worked, displace the start of round 1 st towards the left, first on every other round, then every 4th round – i.e. beg of round is always right before the first YO in the diagram to make it less visible. Beg of round at the end will be in the midle of 1st repetition of A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 176 sts on round, piece measures approx. 15 cm from the middle, approx. 30 cm in diameter. Work first round in A.2 over all sts – make sure that YOs are directly above YOs from A.1, on next round K YO twisted in the first, third, fifth and seventh repetition (to avoid holes), K the YOs in the other repetitions (to make holes) = 192 sts. Then continue to work according to A.3 over the second, fourth, sixth and eighth repetition of A.2, over the 4 other repetitions work in GARTER st – see explanation above – now inc 8 sts every other round as shown in A.3. Continue in garter st and with inc as before until inc have been done 7-10-12-15-20-25 times in A.3, there are now 248-272-288-312-352-392 sts on round, finish after 1 P round. Work next round as follows: Slip the first 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), continue with inc in A.3 and in garter st as before until 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts remain on round, slip the last 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts on a stitch holder for neck (work them first). Cut the yarn. Turn, now work piece back and forth. Continue with inc in A.3 on every row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME cast off in each side towards the neck on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. Continue like this until inc have been done 17-20-24-27-34-39 times in total in A.3 – there are now 298-322-352-376-430-470 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 25-27-29-31-35-38 cm from the middle and 50-54-58-62-70-76 cm in diameter. Size S-M-L-XL: Cast off the first 108-117-128-137 sts, slip the next 82-88-96-102 sts on a stitch holder, and cast off the last 108-117-128-137 sts. Cut the yarn. Work in garter st back and forth over the 82-88-96 sts in bottom edge for 8-6-4-2 cm. Cast off. Size XXL-XXXL: Cast off when all inc are done. Insert a marker in each side, 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm down from shoulder. This shows where sleeve is sewn in. BACK PIECE: Cast on and work as front piece until inc have been done 14-17-21-24-31-36 times in A.3, there are now 304-328-360-384-440-480 sts on round, finish with P 1 round. Piece measures approx. 23-25-27-30-33-36 cm from the middle and 46-50-54-60-66-72 cm in diameter. Then work next round as follows: Cast off the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts on round, continue with A.3 with inc as before until 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts remain on round, cast off these sts. Cut the yarn. Then work piece back and forth until inc have been done 17-20-24-27-34-39 times in total in A.3 – there are now 298-322-352-376-430-470 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 25-27-29-32-35-38 cm from the middle and 50-54-58-64-70-76 cm in diameter. Size S-M-L-XL: Cast off the first 108-117-128-137 sts, slip the next 82-88-96-102 sts on a stitch holder, and cast off the last 108-117-128-137 sts. Cut the yarn. Work in garter st back and forth over the 82-88-96 sts in bottom edge for 8-6-4-2 cm. Cast off. Size XXL-XXXL: Cast off when all inc are done. Insert a marker in each side, 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm down from shoulder. This shows where sleeve is sewn in. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 32-34-36-38-40-42 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. Work 16 ridges, then work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 2½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm 14-14-15-16-16-17 more times = 62-64-68-72-74-78 sts. Cast off when piece measures 48-47-46-44-42-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves, down to markers on front/back piece. Sew underarm seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge st, stop when 20 cm remain at the bottom of body = vents. NECK EDGE: Pick up approx. 70 to 86 sts (incl sts on stitch holder) around the neck on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (58)
Laurence wrote:
Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment ne pas avoir de trou au milieu (début du tricot). Merci
06.04.2024 - 01:09DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Laurence, vous pourrez passer à la fin un fil dans les mailles du montage pour les resserrer et ainsi fermer le trou, ou bien montez les mailles en rond comme dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!
08.04.2024 - 07:46Tanja wrote:
For all those wondering why their knitting has holes in A1: I knitted the yarn overs crossed. The instruction doesn´t say so, but my result looks like in the third picture. It´s only in A2 and afterward in A3 that you have to knit them like a regular stitch.
14.02.2024 - 08:08Hanne Thune wrote:
Kan ikke finde brystmål ? Der står kun diverse størrelser. Men når brystmålet ikke kan findes er det jo svært at finde den rigtige størrelse.
07.12.2023 - 11:05DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hanne, Brystmålet i samtlige størrelser er 2 x 50-54-58-62-70-76 cm (100 cm i den mindste). Du finder måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Her finder du også en lektion som beskriver hvordan man læser måleskitsen :)
07.12.2023 - 15:30Emily wrote:
Based off the pattern and videos, the very beginning looks to have quite a few holes around the middle due to the yarn overs. Photos of those who have done the pattern fully, show this as well. However, the third photo of the leaf flower shows no holes in the very middle from rows 1-9. Why is that? I have tried and cannot seem to get the outcome shown in the third photo. Am I missing an essential element in order to not get holes from the yarn overs in the beginning of the flower middle?
07.11.2023 - 02:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Emily, when A.1 (the flower) is done, you work A.2 over the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 7th marker, the yarn overs will be worked twisted on next round to avoid holes; and you then work A.4 over 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th repeat of A.2 working yarn overs so that they create holes (- corners of piece). Happy knitting!
07.11.2023 - 08:46Terese wrote:
Håller på med Morning Star. På ett ställe står det: SAMTIDIGT minskas det i varje sida mot halsen på vartannat v så här: 2 m 1 gång och 1 m 2 ggr. Vad menas med det? Ska jag sticka 2 maskor tillsammans 1 gång sedan följt av 2 räta maskor? Jag förstår inte. Mvh Terese
20.10.2023 - 12:45Ulla Nielsen wrote:
Når jeg har avet strikkeprøven passer det ikke. Der står at du skal bruge for at få 17 m x 34 p retstrik på 10 x 10 cm. Jeg får 17m 10cm og 34 p 22,5 cm. Er det en fejl?
13.08.2023 - 13:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ulla, du kan prøve at gå ½ nummer ned på pinden, men det vigtigste er de 17 masker du har i bredden på 10 cm :)
16.08.2023 - 11:48Vivian wrote:
Jeg har nu strikket hele mønsteret, MEN har 184 masker - kan det mon have noget med de opslåede 8 masker at gøre?
22.01.2023 - 15:09DROPS Design answered:
Hei Vivian. Du skal legge opp 8 masker og så skal du strikke A.1 8 ganger. Når du ser på diagrammet starter det med 1 maske x 8 rapporter og når du har strikket A.1 1 gang i høyden er det 22 masker pr A.1 = 8 x 22 masker = 176 masker. Mulig du har økt 8 masker for mye. Om du setter en maskemarkør mellom hvert rapport har du en bedre oversikt over hvor mange masker du har på hver rapport etter hver omgang. mvh DROPS Design
23.01.2023 - 14:19Gun-Britt wrote:
Hur är det möjligt med 34 varv på 10 cm? Jag fick 24 varv och 17 maskor på 10x10 cm. Jag använder ert rekommenderade garn Paris och stickor nr 5. Hur får jag nu mönstret att stämma?
02.11.2021 - 14:35DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gun-Britt, det går flera varv när du stickar rätstickad (än när du stickar slätst) När du stickar din provlapp fram och tillbaka på raka stickor, stickar du rät på alla varv. När du stickar tröjan runt på rundsticka stickas rätst såhär; 1 v rätt och 1 v avigt. Lycka till!
02.11.2021 - 14:59Gun-Britt wrote:
Hur kan det vara möjligt att få 34 varv rätstickning på 10 cm? På 10 cm så får jag nog 17 maskor men blir 24 varv. Alltså 10x10 cm så ger mig bara 24 varv och 17 maskor på bredden med stickor nr 5. Tar jag mindre stickor så stämmer det ju inte alls med maskantalet. Är det säkert rätt att det ska vara 34 varv som det står i mönstret?Jag använder Paris garnet som ni rekommenderar.Så hur ska jag göra föra att få rätt maskantal o stickgrovlek?
01.11.2021 - 21:17Petra wrote:
Hallo, wenn ich mit dem Rückenteil fertig bin, habe ich ein Oval und kein Rechteck. Ich stricke Größe XXL. Es ist nicht klar beschrieben, wie es mit den Abnahmen funktioniert. In der Beschreibung wäre es schön, wenn mehr beschrieben wird, was Seitenteile, Schulterteile etc. sind.
21.02.2021 - 19:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Petra, Rückenteil in XXL ist fertig wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, dann ketten Sie alle Maschen ab. Da Sie immer in den jeweiligen 4 Ecke 2 Maschen zugenommen haben, haben Sie eine Vierecke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
22.02.2021 - 09:06