DROPS / 167 / 4

Morning Star by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper worked in a square with leaf pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-578
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g colour no 59, light old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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JUMPER:
Body worked in 2 parts from mid front / mid back. Piece is first worked in the round, then worked back and forth. Cast on and work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Finish by working the sleeves.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 8 sts with Paris and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm (= 2 sts on every needle). Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of A.1 in width). When the first 21 rounds in A.1 have been worked, displace the start of round 1 st towards the left, first on every other round, then every 4th round – i.e. beg of round is always right before the first YO in the diagram to make it less visible. Beg of round at the end will be in the midle of 1st repetition of A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 176 sts on round, piece measures approx. 15 cm from the middle, approx. 30 cm in diameter. Work first round in A.2 over all sts – make sure that YOs are directly above YOs from A.1, on next round K YO twisted in the first, third, fifth and seventh repetition (to avoid holes), K the YOs in the other repetitions (to make holes) = 192 sts. Then continue to work according to A.3 over the second, fourth, sixth and eighth repetition of A.2, over the 4 other repetitions work in GARTER st – see explanation above – now inc 8 sts every other round as shown in A.3.

Continue in garter st and with inc as before until inc have been done 7-10-12-15-20-25 times in A.3, there are now 248-272-288-312-352-392 sts on round, finish after 1 P round. Work next round as follows: Slip the first 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), continue with inc in A.3 and in garter st as before until 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts remain on round, slip the last 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts on a stitch holder for neck (work them first). Cut the yarn. Turn, now work piece back and forth. Continue with inc in A.3 on every row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME cast off in each side towards the neck on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. Continue like this until inc have been done 17-20-24-27-34-39 times in total in A.3 – there are now 298-322-352-376-430-470 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 25-27-29-31-35-38 cm from the middle and 50-54-58-62-70-76 cm in diameter.
Size S-M-L-XL: Cast off the first 108-117-128-137 sts, slip the next 82-88-96-102 sts on a stitch holder, and cast off the last 108-117-128-137 sts. Cut the yarn. Work in garter st back and forth over the 82-88-96 sts in bottom edge for 8-6-4-2 cm. Cast off.
Size XXL-XXXL: Cast off when all inc are done.
Insert a marker in each side, 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm down from shoulder. This shows where sleeve is sewn in.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as front piece until inc have been done 14-17-21-24-31-36 times in A.3, there are now 304-328-360-384-440-480 sts on round, finish with P 1 round. Piece measures approx. 23-25-27-30-33-36 cm from the middle and 46-50-54-60-66-72 cm in diameter. Then work next round as follows: Cast off the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts on round, continue with A.3 with inc as before until 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts remain on round, cast off these sts. Cut the yarn. Then work piece back and forth until inc have been done 17-20-24-27-34-39 times in total in A.3 – there are now 298-322-352-376-430-470 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 25-27-29-32-35-38 cm from the middle and 50-54-58-64-70-76 cm in diameter.
Size S-M-L-XL: Cast off the first 108-117-128-137 sts, slip the next 82-88-96-102 sts on a stitch holder, and cast off the last 108-117-128-137 sts. Cut the yarn. Work in garter st back and forth over the 82-88-96 sts in bottom edge for 8-6-4-2 cm. Cast off.
Size XXL-XXXL: Cast off when all inc are done.
Insert a marker in each side, 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm down from shoulder. This shows where sleeve is sewn in.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 32-34-36-38-40-42 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. Work 16 ridges, then work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 2½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm 14-14-15-16-16-17 more times = 62-64-68-72-74-78 sts. Cast off when piece measures 48-47-46-44-42-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves, down to markers on front/back piece. Sew underarm seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge st, stop when 20 cm remain at the bottom of body = vents.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 70 to 86 sts (incl sts on stitch holder) around the neck on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.

Diagram

= =K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Petra 21.02.2021 - 19:06:

Hallo, wenn ich mit dem Rückenteil fertig bin, habe ich ein Oval und kein Rechteck. Ich stricke Größe XXL. Es ist nicht klar beschrieben, wie es mit den Abnahmen funktioniert. In der Beschreibung wäre es schön, wenn mehr beschrieben wird, was Seitenteile, Schulterteile etc. sind.

DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 09:06:

Liebe Petra, Rückenteil in XXL ist fertig wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, dann ketten Sie alle Maschen ab. Da Sie immer in den jeweiligen 4 Ecke 2 Maschen zugenommen haben, haben Sie eine Vierecke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bärbel 03.05.2020 - 20:06:

Hallo liebes DROPS-Team, ich habe noch eine Frage, und zwar komme ich mit dem Verschieben am Rd-Beginn um 1M nach links nicht zurecht. Wenn ich eine M (bei mir ist es nach rechts) verschiebe, fehlt mir doch die M im Rapport. Und nehme ich die eine M mit über alle Rapporte bis zum Ende/Anfang?

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 10:20:

Liebe Bärbel, damit die Krausrippen schön passen, sollen Sie ab Runde 21 die Runde mit die glatt rechten Maschen anfangen, dh das erste Mal, die erste Masche abheben und diese am Ende der Runde stricken. So beginnen die nächsten Runden mit den Umschlägen/Löchern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bärbel 01.05.2020 - 19:36:

Hallo, Ich habe jetzt das Blatt fertig gestrickt. Wie bekomme ich nun das Blatt rechteckig. A3 stricke ich nur den 2., 4., 6., u. 8. Rapport. Aber dazwischen muß ich die übrigen Rapporte zuerst frei lassen und nachher kraus rechts stricken?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 11:06:

Liebe Bärbel, mit A.3 nehmen Sie jetzt nur noch in 4 Ecken zu, dh über jedes 2. Blatt stricken Sie nur noch krausrechts und über jedes 2. anderes Blatt nehmen Sie wie im A.3 gezeigt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sandra 23.03.2020 - 18:17:

I am ready to finish the front. Do I not cut the yarn between the first number of cast offs, the stitches put on a holder, and the final stitches to be cast off? Thank you.

DROPS Design 23.03.2020 kl. 20:23:

Dear Sandra, you are right, you don't have to cut theyarn between putting the stitches on a stitch holder (you can do this if you knit the stitches first and the cast off stitches. Happy Knitting!

Agnieszka 09.03.2020 - 14:39:

Dzień Dobry. Planuję wykonać ten sweterek i mam jedną wątpliwość. Od którego miejsca liczymy motywy lub gdzie znajduje się pierwszy motyw wzoru A1? Chodzi mi o to czy kolejność motywu liczymy od np. środka dekoltu czy np. od środka boku swetra? Pozdrawiam.

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 17:55:

Witaj Agnieszko! Ze zdjęć widzę, że kolejność motywu liczy się od środka przodu i tyłu. Pozdrawiam!

Magdalena 24.04.2019 - 23:31:

Hello :) When working the A3 diagram, should I keep moving the beginning of the repetition to the left to align the holes or let them drift to the right? From the pictures of the knitted work it looks like the holes are aligned, so the beginning had to be moved but the pattern doesn't say anything about it and the A3 diagram shows the holes drifting to the right...

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 09:10:

Dear Magdalena, beginning of rounds are not displaced anymore, you work A.3 over 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th repeat of A.2 (the 2nd stitch in A.3(A.2) should match the middle stitch in A.1 so that the holes will continue. Happy knitting!

Margarete 17.11.2018 - 10:30:

Servus liebes Team! gibt es diese Anleitung auch auf deutsch? LG Grete

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 08:06:

Liebe Margarete, alle unsere Anleitungen sind auch auf deutsch, einfach über das Menü unter dem Foto Klicken und die Sprache ändern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ellen Anne 10.09.2018 - 18:07:

Jeg har lyst til å strikke denne genseren i merino ekstra fine. Hvor mye mer garn må jeg da ha i str large?

DROPS Design 11.09.2018 kl. 09:00:

Hei Ellen Anne, Det finnes en garnkalkulator ved siden av fotoen på toppen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

Claudia 12.04.2017 - 15:12:

Ho seguito con la massima attenzione le istruzioni ed i video, ma l'effetto è molto diverso. In particolare nella parte centrale risulta poco pieno e compatto. Non capisco come avete fatto

DROPS Design 12.04.2017 kl. 20:09:

Buonasera Claudia, ci dispiace per questa segnalazione: questo modello è stato riprodotto moltissime volte e nessuna ha evidenziato il suo problema. Oltre ad aver seguito le istruzioni e i video, il suo campione corrisponde a quello indicato? Da questo dipende la buona riuscita del modello. Buon lavoro!

Alexandra Wärn 09.04.2017 - 06:50:

Hejsan, jag har kommit så långt med detta mönster att jag nu kontrollerade stickfastheten. Jag har stickat med nr5 stickor och ändå mäter arbetet 20cm från mitten och inte 15 som i mönstret. Hur går jag vidare?

DROPS Design 13.04.2017 kl. 13:42:

Hej, stickfastheten bör du alltid kontrollera innan du påbörjar själva arbetet. Detta kan spara dig mycket tid och besvär. I detta fall bör du byta till tunnare stickor, men kontrollera nu först vilken storlek du behöver!

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