The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit twisted from the right side, purl twisted from the wrong side | |
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side | |
= sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B. | |
= 11 cm applies for high neck. If double neck is worked, the neck is 8 cm after assembled |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Polar Daylight |
|||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked with a high or double neck and ribbed edges. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 227-4 |
|||||||||||||
------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side. INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 127 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 32) = 3.9. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. Do not increase over the edge stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 3rd and 4th stitch. DECREASE TIP: All decreases are worked from the right side. Before the neck: Work until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the last 4 stitches as before. From the neck: Work the first 4 stitches as before, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. The pieces are sewn together and the neck worked in the round to finish. BACK PIECE: Cast on 127-136-148-160-172-190 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Work rib as follows: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 4 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 11 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 32-33-37-39-41-47 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 95-103-111-121-131-143 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (the first and last stitch are knitted). Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off 2-2-4-7-8-10 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 91-99-103-107-115-123 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. On the next row cast off the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 29-33-34-36-39-43 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. FRONT PIECE: Cast on 127-136-148-160-172-190 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Work rib as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 4 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 11 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 32-33-37-39-41-47 stitches evenly spaced = 95-103-111-121-131-143 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (the first and last stitch are knitted). Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off 2-2-4-7-8-10 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 91-99-103-107-115-123 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm. Place the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue by decreasing on each row from the right side 7 times – read DECREASE TIP = 29-33-34-36-39-43 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. SLEEVES: Cast on 51-54-57-60-63-66 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work A.1 in the round for 11 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 13-12-11-10-9-8 stitches evenly spaced - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing later! Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 15-15-15-15-15-17 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 15-14-9-6½-5-3½ cm a total of 2-3-4-5-6-7 times = 68-72-76-80-84-88 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 49-48-47-45-44-42 cm. Continue working stocking stitch but now back and forth so you get a small split under the sleeve. When the sleeve measures 50-49-49-49-48-47 cm cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves – see illustration. Sew the side seams from the armholes down as far as the rib (= 11 cm split on each side). HIGH NECK: Knit up 108 to 126 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy, inside the 1 edge stitch around the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3. Work A.1 in the round for 11 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. DOUBLE NECK: Knit up 108 to 126 stitches (including stitches on a thread on mid front) with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy, inside the 1 edge stitch around the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3. Work A.1 in the round for 12 cm. Now increase 1 stitch in each purled section. Continue the new rib until the neck measures 16 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11428 patterns - 11428 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (19)
Willeke wrote:
Hallo, Ik ben een beginnend breister en kom niet uit het boordpatroon. Moet ik A1 telkens van rechts naar links lezen of moet ik bij de verkeerde kant van links naar rechts lezen? Want als ik dat laatste doe, gaat het patroon toch scheef?? Dank voor uw antwoord
06.03.2024 - 15:53DROPS Design answered:
Dag Willeke,
Aan de goede kant lees je de steken van rechts naar links en aan de verkeerde kant (wanneer je dus weer terug breit) van links naar rechts. De steken die je aan de goede kant recht breit, moet je aan de verkeerde kant averecht breien en de steken die je aan de goede kant averecht breit, moet je aan de verkeerde kant recht breien.
06.03.2024 - 21:52Marte wrote:
Er det brukt DROPS Karisma eller DROPS Daisy på genseren på bildet?
13.02.2024 - 09:15DROPS Design answered:
Hej Marte, genseren på billedet er strikket i DROPS Karisma :)
22.02.2024 - 11:34Solange wrote:
Bonsoir le modèle polar 227-4 taille S me plaît mais je voudrais faire les manches droites comment puis-je calculer le nombre de mailles et les augmentations jusqu’aux emmanchures Merci pour votre aide
10.02.2024 - 00:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Solange, vous pouvez vous baser sur un modèle similaire de tension identique avec la forme des manches souhaitées. Bon tricot!
12.02.2024 - 07:13FRED wrote:
Bonjour pourriez vous me dire si d'après le diagramme une fois montée mes 127 mailles, je tricote pour mes côtes pour le premier rang , 2 mailles endroit et 1 maille torse endroit etc et pour le deuxième rang 2 mailles envers et 1 maille torse envers ? Mon modèle est le 227-4 et j'avoue débuter. Donc pour moi les explications sont compliquées et diagramme compliqué. Merci
16.01.2024 - 10:47DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Fred, les côtes du bas du pull se tricotent en suivant le diagramme A.1 (retrouvez plus d'infos sur les diagrammes ici), autrement dit ainsi, sur l'endroit: 3 m point mousse, (1 m torse à l'endroit, 2 m envers) répétez de (à) jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles et terminez par 1 m torse à l'endroit et 3 m point mousse; sur l'envers, tricotez: 3 m point mousse (1 m torse à l'envers, 2 m endroit), répétez de (à) jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles et terminez par 1 m torse à l'envers et 3 m point mousse. Bon tricot!
17.01.2024 - 08:37FRED wrote:
Bonjour je souhaiterai savoir si les côtés se tricote en 2/2 ou 3/3 Merci
11.01.2024 - 21:04DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Fred, les côtes en bas du dos, du devant et des manches ainsi que le col se tricotent en suivant le diagramme A.1, autrement dit en côtes (1 maille torse à l'endroit, 2 mailles envers). Bon tricot!
12.01.2024 - 08:00MOURGUES wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaiterai connaitre le nombre de pelote "DROPS Karisma" à acheter pour Tricoter le Pull "DROPS 227-4" en taille "S" ? Merci , j'attends votre réponse pour passer commande. Cordialement
05.12.2023 - 13:40DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Mourgues, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille, au poids, dans l'en-tête, en même temps que les tailles, les aiguilles et l'échantillon. Il vous faudra ainsi en taille S par ex. 500 g DROPS Karisma/50 g la pelote = 10 pelotes. Bon tricot!
05.12.2023 - 16:14Stef wrote:
Hi, gestrickt wird mit den Nadelstärken 3,5 und 4,5. Welche Nadelstärke ist für die Maschenprobe zu nehmen: 3,5 oder 4,5? Danke & Grüße, Stef
29.11.2023 - 09:30DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Stef, benutzen Sie die grösseren Nadeln für die Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
29.11.2023 - 14:10Maria Claesson wrote:
Jag tycker det var en onormalt kort tröja på mönstret , jag fick mixtra och förlänga , synd
21.10.2023 - 22:44Anita Meter wrote:
Waarom de steken op een rondbrei naald zetten, als de panden heen en weer worden gebreid?
02.10.2023 - 21:32DROPS Design answered:
Dag Anita,
Als je veel steken op de naald hebt, kan het makkelijker zijn om met de rondbreinaald te breien omdat ze er dan beter op passen, maar verder is daar geen reden voor, dus je zou ook met rechte naalden kunnen breien.
03.10.2023 - 06:00Ma Eugenia wrote:
Hello !!! I´d like to knit this sweater using Karisma and Kid Silk. They form group C. Is it possible to change the gauge ?? How can I do that ?? TIA
03.09.2023 - 15:05DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ma Eugenia, you need to work a gauge with your desired yarns and compare it to the pattern. Then check if you can adapt the pattern to your gauge by working a smaller size. You can see how to calculate a pattern here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=19. Happy knitting!
03.09.2023 - 23:49