Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from cable needle | |
= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from cable needle | |
= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle | |
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Arendal |
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Knitted jumper with cables and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Puna.
DROPS 181-7 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. RAGLAN: Increase to raglan on each side of A.1. Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 as follows (= 8 new stitches each time you increase). Work to A.1, 1 yarn over, work A.1, 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. INCREASE TIP (for the sides): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the side. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits between these) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. DECREASE TIP (for the sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits between these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together. ---------------------------------------------------------- The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. JUMPER: Cast on 112-120-124-128-136-136 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Puna. Knit 1 round, then work rib, knit 2/ purl 2. Continue with rib in this way for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above, on the first round, decrease 4 stitches evenly on round = 108-116-120-124-132-132 stitches. Continue working as follows: Knit 11-12-13-15-16-18, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times (= these 7 stitches become 13 stitches), knit 18-20-20-18-20-16, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 22-24-26-30-32-36, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 18-20-20-18-20-16, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and knit 11-12-13-15-16-18 = 132-140-144-148-156-156 stitches. Knit 1 round, the yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes. Continue working as follows: Knit 4-5-6-8-9-11 (= half back piece), A.1 (= 27 stitches), knit 4-6-6-4-6-2 (=sleeve), A.1, knit 8-10-12-16-18-22 (= front piece), A1, knit 4-6-6-4-6-2 (= sleeve), A.1, knit 4-5-6-8-9-11 (= half back piece). READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue this pattern, at the same time increase on each side of A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd round 21-24-27-30-32-35 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After all the increases, there are 300-332-360-388-412-436 stitches on the needle. Continue the pattern as before (without increases) until the piece measures 22-24-26-29-30-33 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work 45-49-53-58-63-68 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work 90-98-106-116-126-136 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 45-49-53-58-63-68 stitches (= half back piece). BODY: = 196-212-232-252-276-300 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches that where cast on. Continue A.1 over the 20-20-20-20-22-22 stitches in the pattern which remain on the front and back piece, but on every 2nd round, make 1 yarn over on the outside of each A.1 (= towards mid front and mid back) and knit 2 stitches together on each side of marker thread in the side. The yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round. The number of stitches is the same, but the stitches in A.1 will gradually be decreased towards the sides of the jumper and there will be more and more stitches in stocking stitch. When there are not enough stitches in A.1 to work 6-stitch cables, work these stitches in stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 3 stitches evenly over the cable, do not decrease over the cables with 2 stitches (remember to increase on the outsides of A.1 and decrease on each side of the marker threads). When all of A.1 has been decreased there are 172-188-208-228-252-276 stitches on the round. Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 15-15-15-15-15-15 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 5 cm a total of 4 times = 188-204-224-244-268-292 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-34-34-34-34 cm increase 40-44-48-52-56-60 stitches evenly on round = 228-248-272-296-324-352 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib, knit 2/ purl 2. Work rib for 2 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm. In addition, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches mid under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on the needle. Insert a marker thread in the middle of these new stitches – The piece is now measured from here! Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2-2-2-2-2-4 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 3-2-1½ -1½-1½-1 cm a total of 12-15-18-19-20-21 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. When the sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-32-30 cm increase 4-6-8-6-8-10 stitches evenly on round = 48-52-56-56-60-64 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib, knit 2/ purl 2 over all stitches. Cast off when the sleeve measures 43-41-40-38-37-35 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (97)
Marie wrote:
Can you please send 2 pattern for the cable or have many rows between the cable
17.01.2023 - 04:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marie, there are 3 rows between each of the small cables over 2 sts (work these cables on every 4th row - symbols 5 + 6) - and the first large cables over 6 sts are worked on the 3rd row, then repeat these cables on every 8th row. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!
17.01.2023 - 10:23Sandra Hofschildt wrote:
Wie nehmen Sie von 212 Ma am Rumpf 24 Ma ab, auf 188 Ma? Wie meinen Sie ab nehmen, wenn keine 6 Maschen mehr ein Zopfdarstellen, dann sticke ich wie oft die 3 Maschen zum abnehmen, auch in jeder 2. Runde? Können sie nicht ein Bild von der Seite abbilden das man es erkennen könnte ?
26.10.2022 - 01:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Hofschildt, die 4 Diagramme beim Rumpfteil werden in die Seiten verschoben (mit Zu- bzw Abnahmen), aber wenn die Zöpfe die Seiten treffen, können Sie diese Zöpfe nicht mehr stricken, so nehmen Sie 3 Maschen in jedem Zopf (= 6 Maschen in jedem A.1) x 4 Rapporte in der Runde = 24 Maschen ingesamt bei der selben Runde (=212-24=188 Maschen); die Zu- und Abnahmen wie zuvor weiterstricken bis A.1 komplett abgenommen wurde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
26.10.2022 - 08:09Sandra Hofschildt wrote:
Bin dabei die Ärmel abzuteilen, und bei Größe M, meinen 332Ma soll ich 49Ma vom halben Rückteil stricken, dann lande ich, im Zopfmuster Ma 20, ist das so gewollt?
30.09.2022 - 15:26DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Hofschildt, ja stimmt, die Zöpfe (bis 20. Masche) gehören zum Rumfpteil - sie werden beim Rumpfteil nach und nach abgenommen. Bei der Verteilung für die Ärmel legen Sie die letzten 7 Maschen A.1 + die 54 Maschen der Ärmel + die ersten 7 Maschen A.1 (= 68 Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.09.2022 - 16:07Tigresse wrote:
Bonsoir, est-ce possible d'avoir des explications plus claires s'il vous plaît pour la partie dos et devant? Je n'y comprends absolument rien et visiblement je ne suis pas la seule. J'ai défait et refait plusieurs fois, je suis décourager. Merci
04.06.2022 - 23:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tigresse, peut-être pouvez-vous nous donner plus de détails sur ce que vous ne comprenez pas, ce sera ainsi plus simple de pouvoir vous aider, merci pour votre compréhension.
07.06.2022 - 08:20Jane Kuhl wrote:
When there are not enough stitched in A 1 to work 6 stitch cable, am I working the 3 decrease (24 in total) one per row?
30.05.2022 - 18:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Kuhl, correct, this decrease will happen on the same row, decrease 3 stitches in each of the cable in A.1 (2 repeats of A.1 under each sleeve = 4 cables under each sleeve). So that you decrease 24 sts in the cable (extra to the decreases/increases). Happy knitting!
31.05.2022 - 08:33Martina Wietschke wrote:
Hallo Drops-Team, Kann ich den Zopf bei diesem Modell auch bis zum Ende des Pullovers durchstricken? Vielen Dank für eure schnellen Antworten
13.11.2021 - 10:37DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wietschke, leider können wir nicht jeder Anleitung nach jeder Anfrange anpassen aber sicher können Sie die Anleitung je nach Ihrer Wunsch/Lust anpassen - sollen Sie individuelle Hilfen brauchen dann wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.11.2021 - 07:35Irene Fremme wrote:
Jeg strikker modellen i XL. Jeg har strikket 29 cm fra oppleggskanten midt foran og ned, og har totalt 388 masker på rundpinnen,. Oppskriften sier at jeg skal strikke 58 masker (= halve bakstykket) før jeg starter å sette 78 masker på tråd(=erme) Jeg har 76 masker på for/bakstykke, og 64 masker på ermene. Hvis jeg strikker 58 masker som forslått, så sitter jeg igjen med 7 masker som hører til A1. Skal disse på tråden for ermet?
25.10.2021 - 13:24DROPS Design answered:
Hej igen, ja det stemmer, du skal dele op som vi beskriver i opskriften for din størrelse :)
25.10.2021 - 15:52Irene Fremme wrote:
Jeg strikker str. XL. Etter 30 omganger med økning så skal totalt antall masker være 388. Deretter skal vi strikke videre uten å øke til lengden er 29 cm fra oppleggskanten midt foran. Vil ikke det resultere i at kanten som går nedover ved siden av A1, som nå er skrå, starte å gå loddrett nedover i stedet? Er det rktig?
25.10.2021 - 13:16Irene Fremme wrote:
Hei Jeg strikker for genser for første gang, og jeg har valgt denne modellen i størrelse XL. Jeg har noen spørsmål. Jeg har nå strikket 30 omganger med økninger og antallet masker skal nå være opp i 388 masker totalt. Jeg har 385m. 75 masker foran og bak og 63m på ene armen og 64 masker på den andre armen. Så jeg må legge til 3 masker på riktig sted. Hvor mange masker skal det være på for og bakstykke og på armene etter 30 omganger med økning?
25.10.2021 - 13:07DROPS Design answered:
Det lyder til at det er på ærmerne du manger de 3 masker. Hvis du tager dem ud samtidig som du strikker: Neste omgang strikkes slik: Strikk 58 (= halve bakstykket), sett de neste 78 maskene på 1 tråd (= erme), legg opp 10 nye masker på pinnen (= under ermet), strikk 116 masker (= forstykke), sett de neste 78 maskene på 1 tråd (= erme), legg opp 10 nye masker på pinnen (= under ermet) og strikk de resterende 58 maskene (= halve bakstykket).
25.10.2021 - 15:11Bärbel wrote:
Liebes drops-Team, erst einmal herzlichen Dank für all die tollen Anleitungen, nach denen ich gerne stricke. Dann eine Frage: Ich habe die Ärmel abgetrennt, das erste Mal zu- und abgenommen beim Rumpfteil. Wann muss ich gleichzeitig die 3 Maschen in jedem Zopf abnehmen und erfolgt dies nur ein- oder mehrmals? Wenn ich in jeweils 6 Maschen Zopf 3 Maschen abnehme, habe ichbezogen in einer Reihe 12 Maschen weniger!. Danke für Ihre Antwort.
11.08.2021 - 09:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bärbel, diese 3 Maschen nehmen Sie in den Zöpfen ab, wenn es (wegen den beidseitigen Abnahmen) nicht mehr genügend Maschen für diese Zöpfen übrig sind; (für Zöpfen braucht man mehr Maschen als für Glattrechts, deshalb muss man hier abnehmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
11.08.2021 - 13:37