DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Cranberry Kiss Sweater

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, stocking stitch and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 235-8
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-198
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 13, pink
100-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 42, almond

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Basic Jumpers Colour Crush assembly free double neck raglan round neck stocking stitch top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on both sides of 2 stitches in each transition between the body and sleeves; the marker sits between these 2 stitches (8 increases on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is then worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 80-80-88-96-96-104 stitches with one strand of each colour DROPS Kid-Silk, using short circular needles size 3.5 and size 5 mm held together. Remove the needle size 5 mm keeping the stitches on the needle size 3,5 mm (doing this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm.
Fold the neck double to the inside and knit 1 round, where every 2nd stitch is knitted together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge. This gives a double neck.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches; these are used when increasing for raglan and each marker is inserted between 2 stitches:
Count 9-9-13-13-13-17 stitches (half back piece), insert marker-1, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2, count 20-20-24-28-28-32 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4, there are 11-11-11-15-15-15 stitches left after marker-4 (half back piece). Cut the strand.

NECK-LINE:
Now work a neck-line with short rows:
Start from the right side, 3 stitches before marker-3 (front left-hand side of neck when garment is worn). Work stocking stitch and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, until you are 3 stitches past marker-2 (front right-hand side of neck).
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 7 stitches past marker-3.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 7 stitches past marker-2 – remember to increase for raglan.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 3 stitches past marker-3. Cut the strand.

YOKE:
= 96-96-104-112-112-120 stitches.
Start mid-back and continue to increase for raglan every 2nd round a total of 12-14-16-17-15-13 times (including the increases on the short rows) = 176-192-216-232-216-208 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and increases for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the body; i.e. you increase on the body every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 12-12-12-12-18-22 times on the body (6-6-6-6-9-11 times on the sleeves), a total of 24-26-28-29-33-35 times on the body and 18-20-22-23-24-24 times on the sleeves.

After the last increase there are 248-264-288-304-324-340 stitches and the yoke measures approx. 22-25-26-27-30-32 cm measured mid-front and from after the neck. If necessary continue working without increasing to the correct measurement.

Divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 36-38-44-45-49-55 stitches (half back piece), place the next 50-54-58-60-62-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-10-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 74-78-86-92-100-108 stitches (front piece), place the next 50-54-58-60-62-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-10-12-14-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the remaining 38-40-42-47-51-53 stitches (half back piece).

BODY:
= 164-176-192-208-228-248 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch in the round for a further 17-16-17-18-17-17 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced =180-192-212-228-252-272 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 50-54-58-60-62-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 58-64-68-72-76-78 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches mid-under the sleeve.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch for 4 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 6-8-9-10-11-11 times = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 32-30-29-28-26-24 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-38-36-34 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (56)

Florina wrote:

Hey, ich wundere mich gerade über die Ärmellänge, er scheint mir viel zu kurz (er hat die für S geforderten 42cm)...habe den Pulli grade mal übergeworfen und es fehlen fast 10cm, wird das durchs Blocken noch kommen? Ich kette italienisch ab und würde es ungern nachher nochmal aufmachen müssen 😅

13.09.2024 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Florina, zu diese 42 cm sollen Sie die 22 cm von der Passe auch mitrechnen; am besten vergleichen Sie diese Maßen mit den von einem Pullover den Sie gerne haben; oder ziehen Sie den Pullover an und stricken Sie bis die gewünschten Länge vor dem Bündchen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.09.2024 - 08:01

Mirja wrote:

Sijoittuuko pääntien lyhin kohta (eli kohta, jossa ei ole neulottu lyhennettyjä kierroksia) paidan keskelle eteen vai taakse? Eli aloitetaanko kaarrokkeen tekeminen kohdasta, jossa on neulottu vähiten pääntietä varten vai lyhennettyjen kierrosten keskeltä?

03.09.2024 - 20:04

Edith wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nJ\'ai une question quant au raglan. Si j\'augmente pour le raglan à chaque marqueur, je vais me retrouvé avec la bande raglan au milieu du dos (marqueur 1) et au milieu du devant (marqueur 3), non? Où dois-je faire mes jetés exactement?\r\nMerci d\'avance pour votre réponse

25.08.2024 - 16:07

Bonjour Edith, vous devez augmenter de part et d'autre des 2 mailles des raglans avec le marqueur au milieu autrement dit tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille avant le marqueur, faites 1 jeté, tricotez 2 mailles (le marqueur est entre ces 2 mailles) et faites 1 jeté; retrouvez en vidéo comment procéder sous l'onglet "Vidéos" en haut de page. Bon tricot!

26.08.2024 - 08:23

Ariane wrote:

Welche Größe trägt das Modell? Es wäre sehr hilfreich, wenn sie diese Information bei allen Anleitungen ergänzen, weil es hilfreich ist bei der Einschätzung, welche Größe man selber benötigt. Dafür im Voraus vielen Dank!

04.08.2024 - 18:13

Liebe Ariane, meistens tragen unsere Modelle entweder S oder M; aber da jede Körper unterschieden ist, lesen Sie am besten diese Lektion, so wissen Sie genau, wie Sie Ihre Größe finden sollen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

05.08.2024 - 07:59

Hélène Taffin wrote:

Hi! I am starting the Cranberry Kiss Sweater and testing the knitting tension. I\'ve found that I need 8mm needles to get a 10cm swatch. That being said, the pattern calls for multiple needle sizes (3.5 and 5), so I\'m not sure if I should be swapping the 3.5mm for the 8mm or the 5mm for the 8mm? Can you please help?

06.07.2024 - 02:25

Monica wrote:

Hei! Jeg har lest alle kommentarene, men blir ikke klokere (strikker L): Jeg ble ferdig med dobbelhalskant, og så har jeg strikket halsringning med forkortede pinner. Slikt jeg forstår det, og med 3. markør og 2. markør som referanse, har jeg en totalt av 96 før jeg begynner med bærestykke (i oppskriften sies de 104). På halsringning har jeg augmentert 2 ganger på begge sider av markør 3. og 2., så det blir 8, ikke 16. Jeg forstår at halsringningen går på bakside. Mvh Monica

25.06.2024 - 19:35

Hej Monica, markør 2 og 3 sidder på forstykket. Du tager ud til raglan ved alle 4 markører hver gang = 8 udtagninger og det gør du 2 gange = 16 udtagninger. Forhøjningen strikkes fra forstykke om bag i nakken og til forstykke og så vender du, så du får flere pinde i højden på bagstykket end ved halsudskæringen midt foran :)

26.06.2024 - 12:07

Francina Thomas wrote:

Hi there, I am a bit confused with the short rows for the neck line. Starting with 3 stitches before 3rd marker . Thanjs

28.05.2024 - 20:41

Dear Francina, can you please let us know what confuses you about the short rows? They are rows where you do not knot the whole row / round, but turning back midway to raise the neckline. Happy Knitting!

28.05.2024 - 22:34

Sophie wrote:

Hallo, es geht um Größe L: bei den Zunahmen bei der Passe verstehe ich die Anleitung bis zu den 216 Maschen (56 M vo+hi, 52 M am Ärmel, Korrekt?), aber bei den darauffolgenden Zunahmen (12x vo+hi / 6x Ärmel) ergibt sich dann bei mir: 80vo+hi / 64 Ärmel) - wo ist mein Fehler? Danke schon vorab!

28.04.2024 - 23:39

Liebe Sophie, ja stimmt genau, bei der Verteilung werden aber die 3 ersten Maschen + die 3 letzten Maschen von jeder Ärmel für das Vorder- bzw Rückenteil vergeben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

29.04.2024 - 10:08

Line wrote:

Hvilken vanskelighetsgrad er dette? Hvor finner jeg vanskelighetsgrad på Drops oppskriftene?

06.03.2024 - 14:28

Hei Line. Dette er en enkel genser å strikke, vil mange mene. Men det kan jo varierer ut fra person til person hva de mener er lett eller vanskelig. Har du problemer med noe, anbefaler jeg deg å ta en titt på alle hjelpevideoene du finner til denne genseren. Er det noen ord / uttrykk du trenger en bedre forklaring på, hak av for Ordbok og du vil se mange ord i oppskriften får en strek under seg. Klikk på orden og en forklaring dukker opp. Og du kan fint sende oss spørsmål om det er noe du trenger en bedre forklaring på (bare husk DROPS nr og hvilken str. du strikker). Lykke til. mvh DROPS Design

11.03.2024 - 10:22

Julia wrote: