DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
Product image DROPS Lima yarn
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.45 CAD /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Children (2-14)
  3. Accessories
  4. Hats and beanies
  5. Earflap Hats
  6. DROPS Extra
  7. 0
  8. 1049

Little Rudolph

Crochet hat for baby and children in DROPS Lima. Piece is worked as a reindeer with antlers and ears. Size 6 months to 10 years. Theme: Christmas

Change language:

DROPS Extra 0-1049

#littlerudolphhat

DROPS design: Pattern no li-007-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 6/9 - 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 44-46-49-51-52-53-54 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-19 1/4"-20"-20½"-21"-24"

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 5310, light brown.
50 g for all sizes in color no 5610, brown.
50 g for all sizes in color no 0206, light beige
And use some left-over 0100 off white and 3609 red for decoration.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 hdc and 14.5 rows/rounds vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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related pattern
Product image DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.45 CAD /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first hdc on round with 2 ch and finish every round with hdc with 1 sl st in second ch from beg of round.

CROCHET 2 HDC TOG:
* Make 1 YO, insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Work ear flaps back and forth until finished.
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 8 hdc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 hdc in every hdc the entire round = 16 hdc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 hdc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 hdc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 hdc.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 hdc.
ROUND 7: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 hdc.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 hdc.
Now work differently in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE 6/9 MONTHS:
ROUND 9: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 6 hdc evenly on round = 70 hdc.

SIZE 12/18 MONTHS - 2 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 2-6 hdc evenly on round = 74-78 hdc.

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 2-4-6 hdc evenly on round = 82-84-86 hdc.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 hdc.

There are 70-74-78-82-84-86-88 hdc on round. Now work 1 hdc in every hdc every round in all sizes until piece measures 16-16-17-18-19-20-20 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8".
Insert 2 markers in piece from RS. Insert first marker in 7th-7th-8th-8th-8th-8th-8th hdc from beg of round, second marker in 49th-51st-53rd-55th-57th-58th-59th hdc from beg of round. Fasten off.

EAR FLAP:
Beg by working from RS at the first marker. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light brown.
ROW 1: Work 13-14-15-15-15-17-17 hdc. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work ch 2, work 2 hdc tog, work until 2 hdc remain and work these tog.
11-12-13-13-13-15-15 hdc. Turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row, there will be 2 hdc less on every row. Repeat until only 2 ch and 2 hdc remain. Then work the 2 hdc tog, fasten off.
Work another ear flap the same way, beg from the other marker.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the hat with brown. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and beg mid back (beg of round on hat). Work 1 sc in every hdc until ear flap, work * 1 sc, 1 ch and skip approx. 1 cm / ½'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire ear flap. Work 1 sc in every hdc until other ear flap and work the other ear flap as first. Finish by working 1 sc in every hdc on the edge at the back until beg of round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

DECORATION:

EARS:
Ears are worked in two parts that are worked tog. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light beige, work 7 ch.
ROW 1: Turn piece and work back in ch-row as follows: Start in the third ch from needle, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 ch. Work 6 hdc in the last ch on row, rotate piece and work 1 hdc in underside of each of the 5 ch from ch-row = 16 hdc. Turn piece and switch to light brown.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch (replaces first hdc), 4 hdc, work 2 hdc in each of the next 6 hdc and 1 hdc in the last 5 hdc = 22 hdc. Fasten off.
Work another ear the same way. Then work 2 more ears BUT entirely in light brown (= back of ears). Place one part with light beige on top of one part in light brown and work like this with light brown: 1 sc in every st until tip of ear, work 2 ch and 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, skip 1 sc and work 1 sc in every sc the rest of row. Let the yarn be approx.20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly. Repeat on the other ear. Fill the ears with some poly stuffing.

ANTLER:
Worked in 2 parts that are sewn tog into 1 antler. Beg as follows:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replace first sc), 7 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, then 2 sc in every sc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 16 sc.
ROUND 3-5: Work 1 sc in every sc the entire round. Let the thread be approx 20 cm / 8'' before cutting it, this is used for assembly. Fill the antler with some poly stuffing. Then make another antler the same way, but work 8 rounds in total with 1 sc in every sc. Leave the thread 20 cm / 8'' long before cutting. Sew the small antler on the side of the large antler. Fill the large antler with some poly stuffing. Work another antler the same way.
Work another antler the same way.

EYES:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 9 sc in ch-ring = 10 sc. Switch to off white and finish with a sl st in the first ch, cut the brown thread.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc and 1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc and 2 sc in the last 2 sc and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly.
Work another eye the same way.

SNOUT:
Work 16 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light beige.
ROW 1: Work 2 ch and 1 hdc in third ch from hook, then work 1 hdc in every ch until 2 ch remain, work 2 hdc tog. - READ CROCHET 2 HDC TOG. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work ch 2, skip first hdc, 1 hdc in every hdc until 1 hdc remains and 2 ch from previous row, work 2 hdc tog with 2nd ch from previous row.
Repeat 2nd row 3 times in total. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly.

NOSE:
Work 2 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with red, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 5 sc in ch-ring = 6 sc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in every sc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc the entire round. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly. Fill the nose with some poly stuffing.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the snout mid front of hat, right over the dark brown edge. Sew the nose on the snout. Fasten eyes above the snout. Fasten antlers and ears at the top of the hat.
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Robert wrote:

Comment réaliser ce modèle avec un tour de tête de 56

01.01.2025 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, vous pouvez commencer de la même façon et ajouter des augmentations pour agrandir le bonnet, essayez si besoin pour ajuster au plus près de la bonne taille. Bon crochet!

02.01.2025 - 16:05

Birthday Wishes App wrote:

Hey, I think your website might be having browser compatibility issues. When I look at your blog in Safari, it looks fine but when opening in Internet Explorer, it has some overlapping. I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Other then that, wonderful blog!

22.11.2016 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, Remember to always have your browser updated and it should then work! Happy crocheting!

23.11.2016 - 09:31

Maria wrote:

At the end of the directions for the nose you say " fill the snout with some poly stuffing". Do you mean the nose? Otherwhise how to stuff with poly stuffing a flat piece? Thank you in advance and Merry Christmas!

24.12.2015 - 01:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, only the nose should be filled. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2016 - 13:27

Maria wrote:

For the snout, after finishing the 1st ROW 2 and before repeating it for two more times, do I turn the piece or I continue in round? I tried to do it by turning the piece and the snout becomes very triangular.

24.12.2015 - 01:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, snout is worked back and forth, after you have worked row 2, turn and repeat row 2 a total of 3 more times, turning at the end of each row = the snout is 5 rows in total. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2016 - 13:26

Maria wrote:

After round 11 you say to work around until the piece measures 18 cm. By that you mean to flatten the cap and count the diametre? Because I think it is too small like this... Thanks in advance

21.12.2015 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, you continue working until piece measures 18 cm from the beg (= 1st round). Happy crocheting!

22.12.2015 - 10:11

country flag FRANCOISE wrote:

Bonjour, quand vous dites après le tour 11 continuer pour que l'ouvrage mesure x cm c'est de diamètre ?? car sinon cela fait vraiment petit ?? D'avance merci Bonne journée Françoise

12.12.2015 - 06:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, mesurez la hauteur depuis le 1er tour: mettez le bonnet à plat et mesurez à partir du haut du bonnet jusqu'au dernier rang. Bon crochet!

14.12.2015 - 09:32

country flag Cecile Tirmarche wrote:

Un tout gran merci! Avec les petites video tout est bien clai!

05.10.2015 - 17:49

country flag Cecile Tirmarche wrote:

L'abreviation "dB" s'agit il d'une demie bride ou d'une double bride?

05.10.2015 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tirmarche, il s'agit d'une demi-bride, voir aussi la vidéo sous l'onglet du même nom. Bon crochet!

05.10.2015 - 16:11

country flag Tinzi wrote:

So cute little reindeer, suloinen pikkuporo

01.12.2014 - 14:13

Drops Design logo

Little Rudolph

#littlerudolphhat

Little Rudolph / DROPS Extra 0-1049 - Crochet hat for baby and children in DROPS Lima. Piece is worked as a reindeer with antlers and ears. Size 6 months to 10 years. Theme: Christmas
 Little Rudolph / DROPS Extra 0-1049 - Crochet hat for baby and children in DROPS Lima. Piece is worked as a reindeer with antlers and ears. Size 6 months to 10 years. Theme: Christmas

Crochet hat for baby and children in DROPS Lima. Piece is worked as a reindeer with antlers and ears. Size 6 months to 10 years. Theme: Christmas

DROPS Extra 0-1049
DROPS design: Pattern no li-007-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 6/9 - 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 44-46-49-51-52-53-54 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-19 1/4"-20"-20½"-21"-24"

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 5310, light brown.
50 g for all sizes in color no 5610, brown.
50 g for all sizes in color no 0206, light beige
And use some left-over 0100 off white and 3609 red for decoration.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 hdc and 14.5 rows/rounds vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first hdc on round with 2 ch and finish every round with hdc with 1 sl st in second ch from beg of round.

CROCHET 2 HDC TOG:
* Make 1 YO, insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all sts on hook.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Work ear flaps back and forth until finished.
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 8 hdc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 hdc in every hdc the entire round = 16 hdc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 hdc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 hdc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 hdc.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 hdc.
ROUND 7: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 hdc.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 hdc.
Now work differently in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE 6/9 MONTHS:
ROUND 9: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 6 hdc evenly on round = 70 hdc.

SIZE 12/18 MONTHS - 2 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 2-6 hdc evenly on round = 74-78 hdc.

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 hdc in every hdc BUT at the same time inc 2-4-6 hdc evenly on round = 82-84-86 hdc.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work * 1 hdc in each of the next 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 hdc.

There are 70-74-78-82-84-86-88 hdc on round. Now work 1 hdc in every hdc every round in all sizes until piece measures 16-16-17-18-19-20-20 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8".
Insert 2 markers in piece from RS. Insert first marker in 7th-7th-8th-8th-8th-8th-8th hdc from beg of round, second marker in 49th-51st-53rd-55th-57th-58th-59th hdc from beg of round. Fasten off.

EAR FLAP:
Beg by working from RS at the first marker. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light brown.
ROW 1: Work 13-14-15-15-15-17-17 hdc. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work ch 2, work 2 hdc tog, work until 2 hdc remain and work these tog.
11-12-13-13-13-15-15 hdc. Turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row, there will be 2 hdc less on every row. Repeat until only 2 ch and 2 hdc remain. Then work the 2 hdc tog, fasten off.
Work another ear flap the same way, beg from the other marker.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the hat with brown. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and beg mid back (beg of round on hat). Work 1 sc in every hdc until ear flap, work * 1 sc, 1 ch and skip approx. 1 cm / ½'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire ear flap. Work 1 sc in every hdc until other ear flap and work the other ear flap as first. Finish by working 1 sc in every hdc on the edge at the back until beg of round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

DECORATION:

EARS:
Ears are worked in two parts that are worked tog. Use hook size 4 mm / G/6 and light beige, work 7 ch.
ROW 1: Turn piece and work back in ch-row as follows: Start in the third ch from needle, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 ch. Work 6 hdc in the last ch on row, rotate piece and work 1 hdc in underside of each of the 5 ch from ch-row = 16 hdc. Turn piece and switch to light brown.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch (replaces first hdc), 4 hdc, work 2 hdc in each of the next 6 hdc and 1 hdc in the last 5 hdc = 22 hdc. Fasten off.
Work another ear the same way. Then work 2 more ears BUT entirely in light brown (= back of ears). Place one part with light beige on top of one part in light brown and work like this with light brown: 1 sc in every st until tip of ear, work 2 ch and 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, skip 1 sc and work 1 sc in every sc the rest of row. Let the yarn be approx.20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly. Repeat on the other ear. Fill the ears with some poly stuffing.

ANTLER:
Worked in 2 parts that are sewn tog into 1 antler. Beg as follows:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replace first sc), 7 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, then 2 sc in every sc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 16 sc.
ROUND 3-5: Work 1 sc in every sc the entire round. Let the thread be approx 20 cm / 8'' before cutting it, this is used for assembly. Fill the antler with some poly stuffing. Then make another antler the same way, but work 8 rounds in total with 1 sc in every sc. Leave the thread 20 cm / 8'' long before cutting. Sew the small antler on the side of the large antler. Fill the large antler with some poly stuffing. Work another antler the same way.
Work another antler the same way.

EYES:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 9 sc in ch-ring = 10 sc. Switch to off white and finish with a sl st in the first ch, cut the brown thread.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc and 1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc and 2 sc in the last 2 sc and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly.
Work another eye the same way.

SNOUT:
Work 16 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light beige.
ROW 1: Work 2 ch and 1 hdc in third ch from hook, then work 1 hdc in every ch until 2 ch remain, work 2 hdc tog. - READ CROCHET 2 HDC TOG. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work ch 2, skip first hdc, 1 hdc in every hdc until 1 hdc remains and 2 ch from previous row, work 2 hdc tog with 2nd ch from previous row.
Repeat 2nd row 3 times in total. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly.

NOSE:
Work 2 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with red, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first sc) and 5 sc in ch-ring = 6 sc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first sc) and 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in every sc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc the entire round. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm / 8'' long, this is used for assembly. Fill the nose with some poly stuffing.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the snout mid front of hat, right over the dark brown edge. Sew the nose on the snout. Fasten eyes above the snout. Fasten antlers and ears at the top of the hat.

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