DROPS Extra / 0-1049

Little Rudolph by DROPS Design

DROPS Christmas: Crochet DROPS reindeer hat with antlers and ears in "Lima". Size 6/9 months to 9/10 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-007-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 6/9 - 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 44-46-49-51-52-53-54 cm
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 5310, light brown.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 5610, brown.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 0206, light beige
And use some left-over 0100 off white and 3609 red for decoration.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 htr and 14.5 rows/rounds vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 1.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first htr on round with 2 ch and finish every round with htr with 1 sl st in second ch from beg of round.

CROCHET 2 HTR TOG:
* Make 1 YO, insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Work ear flaps back and forth until finished.
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm and light brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 8 htr in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 htr in every htr the entire round = 16 htr.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 htr in first htr, 2 htr in next *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 htr.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 2 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 htr.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 3 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 htr.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 4 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 htr.
ROUND 7: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 5 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 htr.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 6 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 htr.
Now work differently in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE 6/9 MONTHS:
ROUND 9: Work 1 htr in every htr BUT at the same time inc 6 htr evenly on round = 70 htr.

SIZE 12/18 MONTHS - 2 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 7 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 htr.
ROUND 10: Work 1 htr in every htr BUT at the same time inc 2-6 htr evenly on round = 74-78 htr.

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 7 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 htr.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 8 htr, 2 htr in next htr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 htr.
ROUND 11: Work 1 htr in every htr BUT at the same time inc 2-4-6 htr evenly on round = 82-84-86 htr.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 9: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 7 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 htr.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 8 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 htr.
ROUND 11: Work * 1 htr in each of the next 9 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 htr.


There are 70-74-78-82-84-86-88 htr on round. Now work 1 htr in every htr every round in all sizes until piece measures 16-16-17-18-19-20-20 cm. Insert 2 markers in piece from RS. Insert first marker in 7th-7th-8th-8th-8th-8th-8th htr from beg of round, second marker in 49th-51st-53rd-55th-57th-58th-59th htr from beg of round. Fasten off.

EAR FLAP:
Beg by working from RS at the first marker. Use hook size 4 mm and light brown.
ROW 1: Work 13-14-15-15-15-17-17 htr. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch, work 2 htr tog, work until 2 htr remain and work these tog. 11-12-13-13-13-15-15 htr. Turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row, there will be 2 htr less on every row. Repeat until only 2 ch and 2 htr remain. Then work the 2 htr tog, fasten off.
Work another ear flap the same way, beg from the other marker.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the hat with brown. Use hook size 4 mm and beg mid back (beg of round on hat). Work 1 dc in every htr until ear flap, work * 1 dc, 1 ch and skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire ear flap. Work 1 dc in every htr until other ear flap and work the other ear flap as first. Finish by working 1 dc in every htr on the edge at the back until beg of round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Fasten off.

DECORATION:


EARS:
Ears are worked in two parts that are worked tog. Use hook size 4 mm and light beige, work 7 ch.
ROW 1: Turn piece and work back in ch-row as follows: Start in the third ch from needle, 1 htr in each of the next 4 ch. Work 6 htr in the last ch on row, rotate piece and work 1 htr in underside of each of the 5 ch from ch-row = 16 htr. Turn piece and switch to light brown.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch (replace first htr), 4 htr, work 2 htr in each of the next 6 htr and 1 htr in the last 5 htr = 22 htr. Fasten off. Work another ear the same way. Then work 2 more ears BUT entirely in light brown (= back of ears). Place one part with light beige on top of one part in light brown and work like this with light brown: 1 dc in every st until tip of ear, work 2 ch and 1 htr in 2nd ch from hook, skip 1 dc and work 1 dc in every dc the rest of row. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm long, this is used for assembly. Repeat on the other ear. Fill the ears with some cotton wool.

ANTLER:
Worked in 2 parts that are sewn tog into 1 antler. Beg as follows:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replace first dc), 7 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first dc) and 1 dc in first dc, then 2 dc in every dc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 16 dc.
ROUND 3-5: Work 1 dc in every dc the entire round. Let the thread be approx 20 cm before cutting it, this is used for assembly. Fill the antler with some cotton wool. Then make another antler the same way, but work 8 rounds in total with 1 dc in every dc. Leave the thread 20 cm long before cutting. Sew the small antler on the side of the large antler. Fill the large antler with some cotton wool. Work another antler the same way.

EYES:
Work 3 ch on hook size 4 mm and brown, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first dc) and 9 dc in ch-ring = 10 dc. Switch to off white and finish with a sl st in the first ch, cut the brown thread.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replaces first dc), 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 htr in next dc, 1 htr and 1 tr in next dc, 2 tr in next dc, 1 tr and 1 htr in next dc, 2 htr in next dc and 2 dc in the last 2 dc and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm long, this is used for assembly. Work another eye the same way.

SNOUT:
Work 16 ch on hook size 4 mm with light beige.
ROW 1: Work 2 ch and 1 htr in third ch from hook, then work 1 htr in every ch until 2 ch remain, work 2 htr tog - READ CROCHET 2 HTR TOG. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 2 ch, skip first htr, 1 htr in every htr until 1 htr remains and 2 ch from previous row, work 2 htr tog with 2nd ch from previous row.
Repeat 2nd row 3 times in total. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm long, this is used for assembly.

NOSE:
Work 2 ch on hook size 4 mm with red, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch (replaces first dc) and 5 dc in ch-ring = 6 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch (replace first dc) and 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in every dc the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 dc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 dc in every dc the entire round. Let the yarn be approx. 20 cm long, this is used for assembly. Fill the nose with some cotton wool.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the snout mid front of hat, right over the dark brown edge. Sew the nose on the snout. Fasten eyes above the snout. Fasten antlers and ears at the top of the hat.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1049) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Birthday Wishes App 22.11.2016 - 15:58:

Hey, I think your website might be having browser compatibility issues. When I look at your blog in Safari, it looks fine but when opening in Internet Explorer, it has some overlapping. I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Other then that, wonderful blog!

DROPS Design 23.11.2016 kl. 09:31:

Hi, Remember to always have your browser updated and it should then work! Happy crocheting!

Maria 24.12.2015 - 01:21:

At the end of the directions for the nose you say " fill the snout with some poly stuffing". Do you mean the nose? Otherwhise how to stuff with poly stuffing a flat piece? Thank you in advance and Merry Christmas!

DROPS Design 02.01.2016 kl. 13:27:

Dear Maria, only the nose should be filled. Happy crocheting!

Maria 24.12.2015 - 01:16:

For the snout, after finishing the 1st ROW 2 and before repeating it for two more times, do I turn the piece or I continue in round? I tried to do it by turning the piece and the snout becomes very triangular.

DROPS Design 02.01.2016 kl. 13:26:

Dear Maria, snout is worked back and forth, after you have worked row 2, turn and repeat row 2 a total of 3 more times, turning at the end of each row = the snout is 5 rows in total. Happy crocheting!

Maria 21.12.2015 - 15:58:

After round 11 you say to work around until the piece measures 18 cm. By that you mean to flatten the cap and count the diametre? Because I think it is too small like this... Thanks in advance

DROPS Design 22.12.2015 kl. 10:11:

Dear Maria, you continue working until piece measures 18 cm from the beg (= 1st round). Happy crocheting!

FRANCOISE 12.12.2015 - 06:54:

Bonjour, quand vous dites après le tour 11 continuer pour que l'ouvrage mesure x cm c'est de diamètre ?? car sinon cela fait vraiment petit ?? D'avance merci Bonne journée Françoise

DROPS Design 14.12.2015 kl. 09:32:

Bonjour Françoise, mesurez la hauteur depuis le 1er tour: mettez le bonnet à plat et mesurez à partir du haut du bonnet jusqu'au dernier rang. Bon crochet!

Cecile Tirmarche 05.10.2015 - 17:49:

Un tout gran merci! Avec les petites video tout est bien clai!

Cecile Tirmarche 05.10.2015 - 11:47:

L'abreviation "dB" s'agit il d'une demie bride ou d'une double bride?

DROPS Design 05.10.2015 kl. 16:11:

Bonjour Mme Tirmarche, il s'agit d'une demi-bride, voir aussi la vidéo sous l'onglet du même nom. Bon crochet!

Tinzi 01.12.2014 - 14:13:

So cute little reindeer, suloinen pikkuporo

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