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  6. 214
  7. 14

Scotch Mist by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked with garter stitch and English rib.

Keywords: english rib, garter stitch, shawl

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DROPS 214-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-114
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height: Measured down the middle = approx. 43 cm = 17”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 176 cm = 69 1/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g color 08, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 39 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
16 stitches in width and 40 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 		from 5.90 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.60$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PIECE:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the outermost knitted stitch on each side working 3 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Knit together the yarn over and stitch, but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over and knit together the yarn over and stitch again, slip them from the left needle (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next row work the increased stitches without yarn overs as the yarn overs have not yet been made.

Increase 4 stitches in the mid-stitch working 5 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Knit together the yarn over and stitch, but do not slip them from the left needle. * Make 1 yarn over, knit together the yarn over and stitch again *, work from *-* a total of 2 times and then slip the stitch and yarn over from the left needle (= 4 stitches increased).
On the next row work the increased stitches without yarn overs as the yarn overs have not yet been made.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, allowing room for all the stitches. The piece is worked in stripes of garter stitch and English rib.

SHAWL:
Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Sky. Knit 1 row from the wrong side then work as follows from the right side: Knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit to end of row = 7 stitches.
Knit 1 row; the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes.
Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 11 stitches.
Knit 1 row; yarn overs knitted twisted. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row and allow it to follow your work onwards (= mid-stitch).
Continue increasing 4 stitches every 2nd row like this (inside both edge stitches and on each side of the mid-stitch) until there are 35 stitches on the needle – yarn overs always worked twisted. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now work as follows:

STRIPE WITH ENGLISH RIB:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and finish with knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards until you have worked a total of 16 rows of English rib, AT THE SAME TIME on rows 5 and 11 increase 2 stitches on each side of the shawl and 4 stitches in the middle - read INCREASE TIP (= 8 stitches increased on each increase-row = 51 stitches. When row 16 has been completed, work the next row from the right side as follows.

STRIPE WITH GARTER STITCH:
ROW 1: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1 in the yarn over which belongs to the knitted stitch, knit 1 in the knitted stitch, knit 1 in the purled stitch *, work from *-* a total of 10 times (10 stitches increased over the outermost 21 stitches).
Knit until there are 21 stitches left on the row, ** knit 1 in the purled stitch, knit 1 in the yarn over which belongs to the knitted stitch and knit 1 in the knitted stitch **, work from **-** a total of 10 times and knit the edge stitch (10 stitches increased over the outermost 21 stitches) = 71 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 2 increased stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to the mid-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 4 increased stitches.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 a total of 12 times = 143 stitches. Turn and knit the whole row (without increasing). The garter stitch section should measure approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8”.

Continue repeating alternately a stripe with English rib and a stripe with garter stitch
2 more times (= a total of 3 times) as follows:
Work stripe 2 with English rib in the same way as before. When the 16 rows have been worked there are 159 stitches on the needle.
Work stripe 2 with garter stitch in the same way as before. When rows 2 and 3 have been repeated 12 times there are 251 stitches on the needle.
Work stripe 3 with English rib in the same way as before. When the 16 rows have been worked there are 267 stitches on the needle.
Work stripe 3 with garter stitch in the same way as before. When rows 2 and 3 have been repeated 12 times there are 359 stitches on the needle.
Work stripe 4 with English rib in the same way as before. Continue like this, increasing every 6th row, a total of 5 times = 399 stitches. Continue with English rib until the stripe measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”.
Bind off with knit. To avoid the edge being tight, the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. Cut and fasten the strand. The shawl measures approx. 43 cm = 17” measured down the middle.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Manuela wrote:

Buongiorno, per favore vorrei sapere se è possibile modificare le sezioni a coste inglesi facendole a due colori, ho diversi gomitoli di questo filato (drops sky) e vorrei utilizzarli in questo progetto, chiedo consiglio non essendo io molto esperta, vi ringrazio anche per i preziosi modelli che pubblicate.

09.02.2023 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Manuela, può apportare le modifiche che preferisce al modello. Per un'assistenza più personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 kl. 23:53

country flag Heike Lieske wrote:

Ich komme bei dem Kapitel Streifen mit Krausrippen nicht weiter. Wie ich es lese müssen alle Maschen und auch die Umschläge in den äußersten 21 Maschen alle rechts gestrickt werden. Was ist mit den übrigen Maschen in der Mitte? Müssen hier auch alle Maschen rechts gestrickt werden oder müssen die Umschläge mit den dazugehörigen Maschen rechts zusammen gestrickt werden ?

01.09.2021 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lieske, diese Maschen werden ganz normal rechts gestrickt dh die abgehobenen Maschen werden zusammen mit ihrem Umschlag gestrickt (= 1 Rand-Masche, von *-* = 21 M mit Zunahmen gestrickt, 7 M rechts, von *-* = 21 M mit Zunahmen gestrickt, 1 Rand-Masche rechts = Sie stricken über 51 Maschen und haben 20 M zugenommen = 71 Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.09.2021 kl. 08:10

country flag Cristina wrote:

Riferito alla risposta precedente: cioè appena avviati i punti sul ferro, il primo ferro che si fa è sul rovescio? Credevo che il primo ferro fosse sul dritto del lavoro visto che è il primo. Grazie

21.07.2021 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cristina, se non diversamente indicato si può considerare il primo ferro come diritto del lavoro. In questo caso è il primo ferro è sul rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

23.07.2021 kl. 14:37

country flag Cristina wrote:

Ciao, prima riga, cosa vuol dire “Lavorare 1 ferro diritto dal rovescio del lavoro”. Grazie

16.07.2021 - 02:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Cristina, deve semplicemente lavorare 1 ferro a diritto sul rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

20.07.2021 kl. 17:28

country flag Tiina Wires wrote:

En ymmärrä kumpaakaan lisäysvinkkiä, miten alussa voi neuloa 1. silmukan ja langankierron yhteen ja sama uudelleen, kuinka 3 lisättyä silmukkaa neulotaan seuraavalla kerroksella? Samoin keskisilmukan lisäysten neulominen ja seuraavan kerroksen kohdalla kuinka ne neulotaan? Onko missään videota näistä lisäyksistä , en löydä ainakaan. Kiitos

31.01.2021 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei ohjeen tekstin alta löydät linkin videoon, jossa näytetään miten kyseiset lisäykset tehdään: "Patenttineuleen lisäys neulomalla samaan silmukkaan useita silmukoita"

12.03.2021 kl. 13:16

country flag Tina wrote:

Når jeg har taget ud på pind 5 i helpatenten - hvordan strikker jeg maskerne, når jeg strikker tilbage . Jeg kan ikke få det pænt ,

29.01.2021 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, prøv at se hvordan vi gør ved udtagning i nr 2 video nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

29.01.2021 kl. 13:00

country flag Morat Michelle wrote:

Il est dit de commencer par du point mousse alors que sur le modèle on voit des côtes anglaises ? Il est dit de faire 1augm chaque côté bords et 1augm ch. côté maille centrale; donc ne pas tenir cpte du paragr. AUGMENT. + haut qui dit augm. 2m ch. côté.... Merci par avance

17.01.2021 - 12:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Morat, le châle se tricote de haut en bas, en commençant par du point mousse, on augmente jusqu'à ce qu'il y ait 35 m, puis on va tricoter des rayures en côtes anglaises et au point mousse en augmentant comme indiqué pour chaque rayure. Bon tricot!

18.01.2021 kl. 09:50

country flag Monika wrote:

Utknęłam robiąc szal, mogę prosić o pomoc? Nie rozumiem, jak zrobić pierwszy rząd w pasku ściegiem francuskim, który jest za pierwszym paskiem ściegiem angielskim. Nie rozumiem, jak tam dodawać oczka i przerobić środek robótki. Mogę otrzymać jakiś filmik wspomagający na mój adres mailowy? Albo link, gdzie to jest pokazane?

04.01.2021 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko, jak dodać 4 o. na środku szala zobacz na filmie TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

04.01.2021 kl. 19:26

country flag Morat wrote:

Ce modèle ne se tricote pas en rond mais à plat sur les aiguilles circulaires apparemment ? Je débute avec les aiguilles circulaires, je n'ai fait qu'une paire de chaussettes en magic loop. Merci de votre réponse.

13.12.2020 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Morat, on tricote effectivement ce modèle en rangs (= allers et retours) avec une aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles (on commence avec peu de mailles mais on va augmenter régulièrement). cette vidéo vous montre comment tricoter du jersey, en rangs, sur aiguille circulaire par exemple. Bon tricot!

14.12.2020 kl. 09:40

country flag Thérèse Bordessoules wrote:

Un trendy chale qui a l'air bien sympa à tricoter, et qui change des chales à trous-trous, très joli modèle

15.06.2020 - 23:24

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