DROPS / 213 / 36

Breaking Sunlight by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked top down with stripes and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no w-794
Yarn group C or A + A

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 17, off white
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 61, lime

16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for yoke):
Increase with 1 yarn over after markers 1, 3, 5 and 7.
Increase with 1 yarn over before markers 2, 4, 6 and 8.
The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes. The increase stitches are worked into the textured pattern as you go, i.e. increase-1 is worked in garter stitch, increase-2 is worked in stocking stitch etc. When the textured pattern is finished, work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

STRIPE 1: Work 13-13-14-14-14-14 cm with off-white and work textured pattern as follows: * Knit 1, work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above *, work from *-* to end of round.
STRIPE 2: Work stocking stitch and stripes as follows: Work * 2 rounds with lime, 4 rounds with off white *, work from *-* for 15-15-15-16-16-16 cm, adjust so you finish after a complete stripe (applies to the stripe with lime).
STRIPE 3: Finish the piece with off-white and stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.




The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 80-80-88-88-96-96 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and off-white. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows:
* Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Work 2 rounds like this and then change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= approx. mid back); the yoke will be measured from this marker!

The piece is worked in STRIPES – read description above.
On the next round insert 8 markers (all markers are inserted into knitted stitches) as follows:
Insert marker 1 in the 7th-7th-9th-9th-9th-9th stitch.
Insert marker 2 in the 13th-13th-15th-15th-15th-15th stitch.
Insert marker 3 in the 27th-27th-31st-31st-33rd-33rd stitch.
Insert marker 4 in the 33rd-33rd-37th-37th-39th-39th stitch.
Insert marker 5 in the 47th-47th-53rd-53rd-57th-57th stitch.
Insert marker 6 in the 53rd-53rd-59th-59th-63rd-63rd stitch.
Insert marker 7 in the 67th-67th-75th-75th-81st-81st stitch.
Insert marker 8 in the 73rd-73rd-81st-81st-87th-87th stitch.
On the next round increase 1 stich by each marker – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 8 stitches increased). The number of stitches before marker 1, between markers 2 and 3, markers 4 and 5, markers 6 and 7 and after marker 8 remain the same. The increased stitches are between markers 1 and 2, markers 3 and 4, markers 5 and 6 and between markers 7 and 8.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 15-17-19-23-24-27 times, every 4th round 1 time and every 6th round 1 time = 216-232-256-288-304-328 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 19-21-23-27-28-31 cm from the marker. Continue working until the piece measures 21-23-24-27-28-31 cm.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 31-33-36-41-44-49 stitches as before, place the next 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve, work 62-66-72-82-88-98 stitches as before, place the next 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve, and work 31-33-36-41-44-49 stitches as before.

= 140-148-160-180-196-216 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under each sleeve (= in sides of body). There are 70-74-80-90-98-108 stitches between the marker threads. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 4 cm a total of 3 times = 152-160-172-192-208-228 stitches.
When the body measures 20-20-21-21-21-20 cm from the division increase 10-11-11-12-11-12 stitches evenly on the next round = 162-171-183-204-219-240 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 4 cm.
Cast off with knit using lime– read CASTING-OFF TIP!

Place the 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5.mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 6-7-9-11-12-12 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. When the sleeve measures 24-23-22-20-19-16 cm from the division increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches = 42-45-48-48-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) in the round using lime and for 6 cm. Cast off with knit using lime.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.10.2020
... Insert marker 2 inthe 13th-13th-15th-15th-15th-15thstitch.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Katarina Grim 10.12.2020 - 19:14:

Hej! Jag stickar den minsta storleken. Har börjat gjort alla ökningar i bärestycket och undrar över följande där det står i mönstret: "Arbetet mäter ca 19-21-23-27-28-31 cm från markören. Sticka vidare tills arbetet mäter 21-23-24-27-28-31 cm." Ska jag sticka vidare till 21 cm från markören eller från början av arbetet? Sedan undrar jag också över följande: "RÄNDER: RAND 1: Sticka 13-13-14-14-14-14 cm ...:" Vad är det för mått som är 13 centimeter?

Anne Gore 28.11.2020 - 17:29:

What is the finished width of the medium and large size jumpers? I am a UK size 12-14. What size do you suggest I knit?

DROPS Design 29.11.2020 kl. 17:56:

Dear Anne Gore, since the patterns are for many different countries, each with their sizing guide, you should check the scheme with measurements below the pattern. If in doubt between 2 sizes, it's better to choose the larger one. Happy knitting!

Karin Hemke 31.08.2020 - 08:12:

Hallo, Ich würde diesen Pullover gerne stricken und habe mir die Anleitung durchgelesen. Allerdings verwirrt mich die Erklärung des Musters bei der Passe etwas. Diese ist tatsächlich in Krausrippen gestrickt? Also 1 Reihe rechts, 1 Reihe links? Das sieht auf dem Foto anders aus. Können Sie mir da weiterhelfen? Danke MfG Karin

DROPS Design 31.08.2020 kl. 10:25:

Liebe Frau Hemke, die Streifen werden im Rippenmuster (= 1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche Krausrechts) gestrickt, dh die Masche rechts wird immer rechts gestrickt und die Masche krausrechts wird abwechlunsweise rechts und links gestrickt. Viel Sapß beim stricken!

Nicolas Bernard 29.06.2020 - 14:59:

Bonjour, un grand merci déjà pour la réponse précédente concernant les marqueurs. J'ai maintenant un doute sur le tricotage des augmentations : Rang 0: jeté Rang 1 : jeté tricoté torse Rang 2 : comment tricote-t-on ces mailles torse supplémentaires dans le point texturé ? Pour avoir le motif, il faut continer les "cotes", la maille endroit du point. Mais pour cette maille supplémentaire torse, fait-on une maille endroit ou une maille envers ?

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 15:20:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, les augmentations vont être tricotées torse pour éviter les trous, elles seront tricotées soit en jersey, soit au point mousse (à l'endroit/à l'envers) - cette vidéo devrait vous aider à bien comprendre comment tricoter les augmentations. Bon tricot!

Nicolas 20.06.2020 - 19:00:

Bonjour, pour les augmentations-1, il est dit de placer les marqueurs "dans" la 7ème maille (etc.). Mais faut-il le placer après la maille ou avant ? Par exemple pour la taille S, entre les marqueurs 2 et 3, je compte 15 mailles sur mon aiguille, alors qu'il ne devrait y en avoir que 14 n'est pas ? (13ème -> 27ème) Merci pour vos éclaircissements !

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 08:24:

Bonjour Nicolas, les marqueurs doivent être placés dans les mailles indiquées, pas entre les mailles - cette vidéo montre au time code 1:32 comment on met un marqueur dans une maille. Bon tricot!

Lene Johnsson 12.06.2020 - 10:09:

Tak svar - mit spsg. går Primært på udtagningerne - 1 r/1 v bliver til 1 r/2 v - hvordan bliver det til 1 r/1 v igen. Problemet fortsætter jo ved alle udtagninger. Vh. Lene

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 10:23:

den bliver jo hvad du gør den til... strikker du de 3 masker du beskriver som 1r, 1vr, 1r så stemmer det :)

Lene Johnsson 12.06.2020 - 09:33:

Hej - jeg forstår stadig ikke hvad du mener: De øgede masker strikkes fortløbende ind i strukturmønster, dvs 1.udtagning strikkes i rille, 2.økning strikkes i glattstrikk osv. Når strukturmønsteret er strikket ferdig strikkes de økte maskene i glattstrikk videre. vh. Lene

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 09:55:

Hej Lene, du strikker kun struktur i den første hvide stribe, og her strikkes maskerne skiftevis i ret (glatstrik) og retstrik(riller). Så ja første pind strikkes hele pinden ret og anden pind ret og vrang. Selve udtagningen strikkes først ind i mønsteret på pinden efter. God fornøjelse!

Lene Johnsson 07.06.2020 - 17:30:

Er det forstået korrekt - 1 pind rer/vrang - næste pind ret hele vejen rundt? Når der så tages ud så kommer mønsteret jo ikke til at passe med r/v for ved udtagningerne er der to ret - hvordan skal det passes ind?

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 10:29:

Hei Lene. Nei, 1. omgang strikkes rett, deretter strikkes 2. omgang slik: 1 rett, 1 vrang, 3. omgang strikkes lik som 2. omgang og slik strikkes det helt til 1. stripe med lime. De økte maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i strukturmønster, dvs 1.økning strikkes i rille, 2.økning strikkes i glattstrikk osv. Når strukturmønsteret er strikket ferdig strikkes de økte maskene i glattstrikk videre. God Fornøyelse!

Käthe Mohr 29.05.2020 - 11:50:

Kære Jane, nej så har jeg ikke skrevet det rigtigt. I selve opskriften står der, at når vi har nået 23 cm skal arb. deles op. Jeg har nået de 23 cm., men under forklaringen om striber, står der, at første stribe skal være 13 cm og anden stribe skal være 15 cm. Det er 28 cm? Min første stribe er 13 cm, men min anden stribe er 12 cm. Det er 25 cm., ? Min strikkeprøve var som sagt rigtig.

Käthe Mohr 26.05.2020 - 13:00:

Under striber står der, at "Første stribe" skal være 13 cm. Det passer. Under "Anden stribe" skal målet være 15 cm. Det kommer ikke til at passe. Efter min 5' stribe med lime måler "Anden stribe" 12 cm. I selve opskriften skal de to striber være 23 cm inden arbejdets deling?? Der er en forskel på 3 cm? Min strikkeprøve var korrekt.

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 10:50:

Hej Käthe, men så strikker du bare en lime stribe mere så du får det rigtige mål. God fornøjelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 213-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.