Like it? Share it!

You might also like...

related pattern
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Skirts
  4. DROPS
  5. 206
  6. 24

Finally The Weekend by DROPS Design

Knitted skirt in 2 colored English rib with leaf pattern. Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: colorwork, english rib, leaf pattern, skirt

Like it? Share it!

DROPS 206-24
DROPS design: Pattern me-185
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Because of the texture this garment is very elastic. Measurements on chart might seem small in the waist and around the hips, but the garment will stretch when it is worn, so work the size you normally use.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200-250 g color 03, dark grey
150-150-200 g color 32, dark rose

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 44 rows vertically (i.e. 22 visible stitches vertically) with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4: Length 40 and 60 cm = 16” and 24” for English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

ACCESSORIES: Approx. 70-120 cm = 27 1/2”-47 1/4” thin elastic or round elastic for waistband.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool 		from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$. Read more.

You might also like...

related pattern

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

RIB:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 2 purl stitches to 1 purl stitch purling by purling 2 together.

LEAF PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB WITH 2 COLORS (knitted in the round):
See diagrams A.2 to A.4.
To get the effect with 2 colors knit stripes alternately with 1 round dark grey and 1 round dark rose. Begin A.2, A.3 and A.4 on a round with dark grey as explained in pattern, and every time increases or decreases are done in A.2, A.3 and A.4, this is done on a round with dark rose.

KNITTING TIP:
All numbers of stitches given when working English rib is without yarn overs, because yarn overs belongs to knit stitch and is counted together as 1 stitch.

MEASURING TIP:
As the garment expands in use it might be wise to stretch in width when measuring length, to avoid the skirt being too short.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

SKIRT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked in the round on a short circular needle, top down, switch to a longer circular needle when needed.

SKIRT:
Cast on 120-140-160 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with dark grey. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round (= 24-28-32 repetitions of 5 stitches). When rib measures 3-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”, decrease all 2 purl stitches to 1 purl stitch - read DECREASE TIP= 96-112-128 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4.
Read LEAF PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB WITH 2 COLORS and work A.2 in the round (= 6-7-8 repetitions of 16 stitches). REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE AND READ KNITTING TIP.
When A.2 has been worked, there are 144-168-224 stitches on row.
Work A.3 in the round (= 6-7-8 repetitions of 24-24-28 stitches). When A.3 has been worked, work A.4 in the round (= 6-7-8 repetitions of 24-24-28 stitches). When A.4 has been worked, there are 192-224-288 stitches on row.
Then work A.x in A.4 in the round until piece measures approx. 42-46-50 cm = 16 1/2”-18”-19 3/4” from cast-on edge - read MEASURING TIP, try the skirt on and work until desired length. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over yarn over and knitted stitches and purl over purl - NOTE: Make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as stitches) to make the bind-off edge more elastic.
Begin in the side or mid back and pull a thin elastic or round elastic up and down through rib in waist, make a knot.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work this round with dark grey
symbols = work this round with dark rose
symbols = begin here
symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch over on to right needle purlwise
symbols = knit yarn over and knit stitch together
symbols = purl yarn over and purl stitch together
symbols = work 5 stitches in yarn over and knit stitch over as follows: Knit yarn over and knit stitch together, but wait to slip the stitch off the needle, * make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit yarn over and knit stitch together without slipping stitch off needle *, work from *-* 2 times in total = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
symbols = decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: Knit 3 stitches and 2 yarn overs (= 5 stitches in total) together
symbols = decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: Pass first yarn over and knit stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 stitch purl + yarn over and knit stitch), then pass the loose yarn over and knit stitch over stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = decrease 4 stitches as follows: Work 5 stitches and 3 yarn overs (= 8 stitches in total) together as follows: Slip the first 5 stitches of these 8 stitches (i.e. 3 stitches and 2 yarn overs) loosely on to right needle knitwise, knit the next 3 stitches (i.e. 2 stitches and 1 yarn over) together, pass the 5 loose stitches (including yarn overs) from right needle over stitches worked together (= 4 stitches decreased)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Zana wrote:

Beautiful. I would like to see the diagram, so I can create something else using this pattern working on the flat.. Thank you.

01.10.2022 - 14:10

country flag Danielle Krijnen wrote:

Superleuk rokje, maar als ik aan A2 begin, wordt er geschreven dat je eerst 1 omslag doet (van voor naar achter? Of achter naar voor?) en dan 1 steek averechts afhaalt. Ik heb nu 98 steken en moet uitkomen op 144 steken. Ik begrijp niet hoe? De omslagen moeten dan volgens mij wel in de andere kleur? Want als je 98 steken hebt met om en om een omslag kom je op het dubbele uit.......

22.10.2020 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Danielle,

De omslag (van voor naar achteren) en de afgehaalde steek horen bij elkaar en vormen samen de steek met het open vierkantje. De volgende steek brei je averecht, dan weer 1 omslag + 1 averecht, enzovoort. Op die manier kom je dan op 144 steken. Voor de kleinste maat heb je trouwens 96 steken op de naald en niet 98 steken.

25.10.2020 kl. 19:43

country flag Stef Hurleu wrote:

Good morning Is an error occurring in A3 ? following each row that has worked 5 stitches and the left/right decreases - for example the row (15) - should it not include the symbols to allow 2 simple purl stitches for each previous work 5 stitch in addition that accompany the 3 slipped yarn overs rather than only the ‘make 1yarn over ; slip 1 stitch purl wise’ and ‘purl yarn over and purl stitch together? Then row 16 can be the knit yarn over and knit stich

21.01.2020 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hurleu, we choose to keep the symbols from the English rib, but after an increaesing row you will work the new stitches in English rib as if they were a yarn over but without the yarn over - this video might help you. Happy knitting!

22.01.2020 kl. 08:02

country flag Blondel wrote:

Du plus bel effet pour de jolies jambes ! j adore

24.09.2019 - 13:45

country flag Anita wrote:

Super!!!!! Endlich ein tolles Brioche-Strickstück von Dops.

14.09.2019 - 09:20

country flag Inger Marie Øygard wrote:

Hei! Hvor finner jeg oppskriften til dette skjørtet? Det ser veldig fint ut 😀

07.09.2019 - 09:44

country flag Rianne Wiesje Kompier Krijnen wrote:

Wat een mooi en vrolijk winterrokje!

04.07.2019 - 07:14

country flag Rita wrote:

Wunderschönes Muster, sollte es auch als Pullover geben.

02.07.2019 - 17:34

country flag Birgitte Graven wrote:

Supersmart og ung. Hvorfor sætter I ikke tøjet sammen i sæt, når der tydeligvis er lavet sæt? Så vidt jeg husker er der en trøje ud over nederdelen og huen.

10.06.2019 - 00:19

country flag Katja wrote:

Superschönes Muster

07.06.2019 - 19:37

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 206-24

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.