Blue Annabelle by DROPS Design

Crocheted long jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern and bobbles. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern cm-104
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 162-184-206 cm = 63 3/4”-72 1/4”-81”
Full length: 71-75-79 cm = 28”-29 1/2”-31”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-800-1000 g color 09, ice blue

CROCHET GAUGE:
18 double crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm = US 6
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of every row replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch by working 2 double crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth in parts, top down and sewn together when finished. Work the sleeves back and forth, top down and sew together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Work 176-200-224 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm = US 6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 146-166-186 double crochets.
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches – read CROCHET INFORMATION, repeat A.3a until 3 stitches remain (= 7-8-9 times in width), finish by working A.1 over the last 3 stitches. When A.3a has been worked, continue A.3b and then on A.3c, repeat A.1 vertically until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When entire A.3 has been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.5 until 3 stitches remain (= 9-10-11 times in width), finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 150-166-182 stitches on row marked with Ø-1 – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-0-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-0-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 146-166-186 stitches.
When entire A.5 has been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.3b until 3 stitches remain (= 7-8-9 times in width), finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches.
When entire A.3b has been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.5 until 3 stitches remain (= 9-10-11 times in width), finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 150-166-182 stitches on row marked with Ø-1. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-1-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-1-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 146-166-186 stitches.
When entire A.5 are done vertically, fasten off. Piece measures approx. 71-75-79 cm = 28”-29 1/2”-31”.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 80-93-104 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm = US 6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), 1 double crochet in each of the next 4-5-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 66-77-86 double crochets.
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches – read CROCHET INFORMATION, repeat A.3a until 3-14-3 stitches remain (= 3-3-4 times in width), work A.4a (= 11 stitches) 0-1-0 times in total and finish by working A.1 over the last 3 stitches. When A.3a and A.4a have been worked, continue on A.3b and A.4b, repeat A.1 vertically until finished measurements – AT THE SAME TIME increase 10-7-6 stitches evenly on row marked with Ø-3 = 76-84-92 stitches. When A.3b and A.4b have been worked, continue on A.3c and A.4c – AT THE SAME TIME increase 3-2-3 stitches evenly on row marked with Ø-4 = 79-86-95 stitches.
When entire A.3 and A.4 have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.5 until 12-3-12 stitches remain (= 4-5-5 times in width), work A.6 (= 9 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total and finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-0-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-0-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 77-86-97 stitches.
When entire A.5 and A.6 have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, work A.4b (= over 11 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total, repeat A.3b until 3 stitches remain (= 3-3-4 times in width), finish by working A.1 over the last 3 stitches.
When entire A.3b and A.4b have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, work A.6 (= 9 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total, repeat A.5 until 3 stitches remain (= 4-5-5 times in width), finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 79-86-95 stitches on row marked with Ø-1 – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-1-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-1-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 77-86-97 stitches.
When entire A.5 and A.6 are done vertically, fasten off. Piece measures approx. 71-75-79 cm = 28”-29 1/2”-31”.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 80-93-104 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm = US 6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), 1 double crochet in each of the next 4-5-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 66-77-86 double crochets.
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches - remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work A.2b (= 11 stitches) 0-1-0 times in total, repeat A.3a until 3 stitches remain (= 3-3-4 times in width), finish by working A.1 over the last 3 stitches. When A.2a and A.3a have been worked, continue on A.2b and A.3b, repeat A.1 vertically until finished measurements – AT THE SAME TIME increase 10-7-6 stitches evenly on row marked with Ø-3 = 76-84-92 stitches. When A.2b and A.3b have been worked, continue on A.2c and A.3c – AT THE SAME TIME increase 3-2-3 stitches evenly on row marked with Ø-4 = 79-86-95 stitches.
When entire A.2 and A.3 have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.8 until 12-3-12 stitches remain (= 3-3-4 times in width), work A.7 (= 9 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total and finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-0-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-0-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 77-86-97 stitches.
When entire A.7 and A.8 have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.3b until 14-3-14 stitches remain (= 3-3-4 times in width), work A.2b (= over 11 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total and finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches.
When entire A.2b and A.3b have been worked, continue as follows (begin first row from wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 3 stitches, repeat A.8 until 12-3-12 stitches remain (= 4-5-5 times in width), work A.7 (= 9 stitches) 1-0-1 times in total and finish with A.1 over the last 3 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 79-86-95 stitches on row marked with Ø-1. When A.x has been worked vertically, repeat A.x 0-1-1 more times vertically. When A.y has been worked vertically, repeat A.y 0-1-1 more times vertically. On row marked with Ø-2 adjust number of stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly to 77-86-97 stitches.
When entire A.5 and A.6 are done vertically, fasten off. Piece measures approx. 71-75-79 cm = 28”-29 1/2”-31”.

SLEEVE:
Work 99-123-123 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm = US 6 with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-3-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 82-102-102 double crochets. Work as follows (first row from right side): Work A.1 over the first stitch, repeat A.3b until 1 stitch remains (= 4-5-5 times in width), finish with A.1 over the last stitch. When A.3a has been worked, continue A.3b and then on A.3c, repeat A.1 vertically until finished measurements. When entire A.3 are done vertically, fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Begin approx. 23-28-28 cm = 9”-11”-11” down from shoulder and sew side seams, leave approx. 30 cm = 11 3/4” at the bottom for vent. Sew underarm seams and sew in sleeves.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths Cotton Merino yarn of 6 metres = 240” each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Place string double, thread the loop through one of the holes on front right piece (approx. 25-26-27 cm = 9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8” down from shoulder). Then pull yarn ends through loops and tighten. Make another string and fasten it at the front on left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = row begins with 3 chain stitches
symbols = row has already been worked! Begin on next row (i.e. at the arrow)
symbols = Begin diagram here (= first row in diagram)
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain space
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = BOBBLE: Work as follows around chain space below: 1 slip stitch, 4 treble crochets but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, 1 slip stitch, make a yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on hook, NOTE on back piece: At the end of the row do not work this bobble (to make the piece the same in both sides).
symbols = increase/decrease row (= Ø-1 to Ø-4)
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Ann wrote:

Hej Jag undrar om måtten på den vackra kofta. Modellen ser ut att drunkna i den hon har på sig… vilken storlek har hon på sig?

11.07.2022 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann. Modellen har oftast storlek S eller M på sig. Det bästa är om du tar mått på ett plagg du redan har och jämför med måtten på måttskissen längst ner på mönstret och väljer den storlek som ligger närmast. Mvh DROPS Design

11.07.2022 kl. 14:23

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Leider komme ich beim Rückenteil mit dem Muster nicht hin mit 71 cm. Scheint eine andere Baumwolle zu sein auf dem Bild. Wenn ich alles gehäkelt habe sind es nur53cm.

04.07.2022 - 22:07

country flag Deb wrote:

Is this pattern written any differently?? I purchased the yarn to make this sweater but I don’t read diagrams and I don’t understand the A6… Ab and all that lingo. I just need rows and stitch instructions. Is there any help?? I can follow patterns usually but this one is difficult for me. Thank you for your help.

17.08.2021 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb we usually do not give written out patterns not only because our patterns are available in several languages, but also because we believe that as opposed to written out patterns with diagrams you not only see the very next step, but the "bigger picture", how the stitches and also rows relate to each other. However, we do have a lesson on how to read knitting charts HERE, and you can always ask for help (either in person, or over the phone) in the store where youu bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Stitching!

17.08.2021 kl. 23:27

country flag Andrea wrote:

Dieses Modell finde ich sehr hübsch und möchte es gern nachhäkeln. Allerdings mag ich Noppen nicht und möchte sie womöglich vermeiden. Daher die Frage: Gibt es eine weniger plastische, also flache Alternative? Wenn ja, bin ich für einen Hinweis sehr dankbar! Die Wolle liegt schon bereit... :-)

01.07.2021 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, Sie können entweder gar keine Noppen stricken, oder vielleicht einfach nur 4 Stäbchen oder 4 Doppelstäbchen zusammenhäkeln (und vielleicht eben nur 1 Stb/1 DStb in A.3b z.B.) ? Am besten häkeln Sie eine Maschenprobe mit unterschiedlichen Möglichkeiten, so können Sie entscheiden. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.07.2021 kl. 16:50

country flag Freja wrote:

Hej. På billedet af bagsiden, kan jeg se at der skal være en nedringning ved nakken. Hvordan skal den laves? Det virker som om, bagstykket bare hækles fuldkommen lige i toppen og så ender man ikke med det samme, som på billedet, hvilket jeg synes ville være meget ærgerligt. Men det kan også være, at den laves senere i opskriften?

19.06.2021 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Freja. Her står modellen med svai i ryggen og jakken har nok glidd bakover slik at det ser ut som om det er en nedringning ved nakken. Det er ikke forklart noen nedringning bak i nakken i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

21.06.2021 kl. 11:01

country flag Patrizia Locatelli wrote:

Gent.mo Staff Garnstudio, grazie per la solerte risposta, ma nel modello non sono indicati gli aumenti relativi alle taglie, soprattutto per lo schema A 3 b / A 3 c. In attesa di una gentile risposta porgo cordiali saluti. Patrizia Locatelli

24.08.2019 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno, il numero di maglie da diminuire è indicato nelle spiegazioni: ad esempio sulla riga indicata dal simbolo Ø-3 deve aumentare 10 maglie per la taglia S/M, mentre sulla riga indicata da Ø-4 deve aumentare 3 maglie sempre per la taglia S/M. Buon lavoro!

25.08.2019 kl. 11:10

country flag Patrizia Locatelli wrote:

Gent.mo Staff Garnstudio, sto realizzando questo modello ma non riesco a capire se devo aumentare o diminuire nello schema A3 b e A3 c dove c’ è il simbolo corrispondente, non mi sembra ben spiegato. Ringraziando anticipatamente porgo cordiali saluti.

24.08.2019 - 00:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Sulle righe indicate dai simboli Ø-3 e Ø-4, aumenta ad intervalli regolari il numero di maglie indicate per la sua taglia. Per aumentare, lavora due maglie nella stessa maglia. Buon lavoro!

24.08.2019 kl. 15:56

country flag Angel wrote:

Hi, This May be a silly question but I do t know so, I’m asking. I love this pattern except for the bobbles. Could simply substitute 1 or 2 treble Crochet’s in their place? Thank you.

16.06.2019 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Angel, feel free to not crochet the bobbles, a good idea would be to make a swatch and try different techniques to substitute them so that you can choose the one you rather. Happy crocheting!

17.06.2019 kl. 08:35

country flag Diana wrote:

Hallo, ich finde A1 nicht.

10.06.2019 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Diana, A.1 ist ein ganz kleines Diagram, das finden Sie neben der Maßskizze = 1 Masche und 6 Reihen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.06.2019 kl. 11:51

country flag Joy wrote:

Hi. I don't get how to make bobble in this pattern. If I make 1 slip stitch around chain space and after that 4 double trebles (5 loops on a hook) how can I make a slip stitch after that? I don't have any loop to pull it through, only not finished double trebles. Can you please help me?:)

31.05.2019 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joy, you will here crochet several stitches together in the same ch-space: (1 loop on the hook), insert the crochet in the chain-space, get the yarn (= 1 loop on the hook), work the next 4 double treble (= 4 loops on the hook), insert the crochet hook in the chain space and get the yarn (= 1 loop on the hook), now make a yarn over and pull through all the 7 loops on the hook. Happy crocheting!

04.06.2019 kl. 09:07

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