DROPS / 199 / 16

Carefree Summer by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho with lace pattern in DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-093
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 140-158-172 cm = 55”-62”-67 1/2”
Full length: 69-73-77 cm = 27 1/8”-28 3/4”-30 3/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-750-900 g color 01, off white

CROCHET GAUGE:
20 double crochets in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 501: 2 items in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

CROCHET TIP (for chain stitches):
It is often found that we work our chain stitches more tightly than other stitches. 1 chain stitch should equal 1 single crochet/treble crochet/double treble crochet etc. on width. Make sure the loop of the chain stitch is pulled up the hook so that it is loose. If the chain stitches are too tight, the sections with lots of chain stitches will also be too tight.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of double treble crochets replace the first double treble crochet with 5 chain stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work the next double crochet; when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections, top down. Read CROCHET TIP. The back piece starts with right and left shoulder, which are then worked together before continuing. The front piece is first worked in separate right and left front pieces, before these 2 sections are worked together and then continued in the same way as the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Work 68-79-86 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Light – read CROCHET INFORMATION. Turn and work double crochets as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 10-12-13 times = 55-64-70 double crochets. Cut strand and lay piece to one side.
Left shoulder:
Work 68-79-86 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Light. Turn and work double crochets as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 10-12-13 times = 55-64-70 double crochets.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work A.1a (= 7 stitches), A.1b (= 3 stitches) over the remaining 48-57-63 double crochets on left shoulder, work 29-29-32 loose chain stitches at end of row (= neck) and then continue the pattern over the right shoulder as follows: A.1d (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 3 stitches) over the next 48-57-63 double crochets (= until there are 6 stitches left on row) and finish with A.1c (= 6 stitches).
Now right and left shoulders have been worked together and there are 29-29-32 chain stitches for neck. Work the last row in the diagram as follows:
ROW 3: A.1c, A.1b over the next 16-19-21 chain-spaces, A.1d, work 1 double crochet in each of the 29-29-32 chain stitches, continue with A.1b over the next 16-19-21 chain-spaces and finish with A.1a = 139-157-172 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now work pattern as follows: A.2a (= 7 stitches), A.2b (= 42-48-53 repeats of 3 stitches) until there are 6 stitches left on row, A.2c (= 6 stitches). When A.2a-A.2c have been completed in height, work pattern as follows: A.3a (= 4 stitches), A.3b (= 3 stitches), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 9-18-7 stitches, A.3c (= 18 stitches) a total of 6-6-8 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 9-18-8 double crochets, A.3d (= 3 stitches), A.3e (= 3 stitches). When A.3a-A.3e have been completed in height work patterns A.2a-A.2c in the same way as earlier, but on the last row in the diagrams increase 3-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced (increase over stitches in A.2b)– read INCREASE TIP = 142-160-172 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 22 cm = 8 3/4”.
Now work pattern as follows: Work A.3a over the first 4 stitches, A.3b over the next 3-12-18 stitches (= 1-4-6 repeats), A.4 (= 42 stitches) a total of 3 times, A.3d over the next 6-15-21 stitches (= 2-5-7 repeats) and finish with A.3e over the last 3 stitches. Work the row with a white star at the beginning of the diagram a total of 3-4-5 times in height before continuing and work the next-to-last row in the diagram (with white star) a total of 2-3-4 times. On the last row decrease 3-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 139-157-172 stitches. When A.4 has been completed the piece measures approx. 44-46-48 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”.
Work A.2a-A.2c in the same way as earlier, but on the last row increase 0-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced = 139-160-172 stitches.
Work pattern as follows: A.3a over the first 4 stitches, A.3b over the next 3-3-9 stitches (= 1-1-3 repeats), A.5 (= 21 stitches) a total of 6-7-7 times, A.3d over the next 3-3-9 stitches (= 1-1-3 repeats) and A.3e over the last 3 stitches.
Repeat the row with the white star at the beginning of the diagram a total of 1-2-3 times in height before continuing and then repeat the next-to-last row in the diagram (with white star) a total of 1-2-3 times. On the last row decrease 0-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced = 139-157-172 stitches.
Now work A.2a-A.2c in the same way as earlier. The piece measures approx. 69-73-77 cm = 27 1/8”-38 3/4”-30 3/8” from the shoulder down.
Cut and fasten strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Right front piece:
Work 68-79-86 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Light. Turn and work double crochets as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 10-12-13 times = 55-64-70 double crochets.
Now work pattern as follows from the right side: A.7a (= 7 stitches), A.7b (= 15-18-20 repeats of 3 stitches) until there are 3 stitches left on row, A.7c (= 3 double crochets). Continue back and forth like this until the 4th row has been worked (with black square). Cut the strand.
ROW 5: Work 12-12-15 loose chain stitches and then continue as shown on row with arrow in diagrams A.7c, A.7b and A.7a = 70-79-88 stitches on row.
Continue A.7a-A.7c as before and work 1 double crochet in each of the 12-12-15 stitches cast on for neck. When A.7a-A.7c have been completed in height continue as follows: A.3a over the first 4 stitches, A.3b over the next 3 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 9-18-9 double crochets and A.3c a total of 3-3-4 times in width. When A.3 has been completed in height continue as follows from the right side: Work A.2a over the first 7 stitches and A.2b a total of 21-24-27 times. Continue back and forth like this until there is 1 row left in the diagrams. Cut the strand, lay the piece to one side and work left front piece.
Left front piece:
Work 68-79-86 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Light. Turn and work double crochets as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets) work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 10-12-13 times = 55-64-70 double crochets.
Now work pattern as follows from the right side: Work A.6a (= 1 stitch), A.6b (= 16-19-21 repeats of 3 stitches) until there are 6 stitches left on row and A.6c (= 6 stitches). Continue back and forth like this until row 5 has been worked. At the end of row 5 work 12-12-15 loose chain stitches for neck.
ROW 6: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 10-10-13 loose chain stitches (= 12-12-15 double crochets over neck), then A.6a-A.6c as before = 70-79-88 stitches.
ROW 7: Work A.6a-A.6c as before and work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining 12-12-15 stitches for neck.
Now work pattern as follows from the right side: A.3c a total of 3-3-4 times in width, 1 double crochet in each of the next 10-19-10 double crochets, A.3d over the next 3 stitches, A.3e over the last 3 stitches. Continue back and forth like this until A.3c has been completed in height. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: A.2d (= 1 stitch), A.2b until there are 6 stitches left on row and A.2c over the last 6 stitches. Continue back and forth like this until there is 1 row left in the diagrams.

Turn and work the last row in the diagrams at the same time as you work the 2 front pieces together from the wrong side as follows: Work A.2c over the first 6 stitches, A.2b (i.e. 1 double crochet in each double crochet) to end of row on left front piece, at the same time increase 1-1 double crochet in sizes S/M and L/XL and decrease 2 double crochets in size XXL/XXXL, continue over the right front piece with A.2b (.e. 1 double crochet in each double crochet) until there are 7 stitches left on row, at the same time increase 1-1 double crochet in sizes S/M and L/XL and decrease 2 double crochets in size XXL/XXXL and finish with A.2a over the last 7 stitches on row = 142-160-172 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows: Work A.3a over the first 4 stitches, A.3b over the next 3-12-18 stitches (= 1-4-6 repeats), A.4 (= 42 stitches) a total of 3 times, A.3d over the next 6-15-21 stitches (= 2-5-7 repeats) and finish with A.3e over the last 3 stitches. Work the row with the white star at the beginning of the diagram a total of 3-4-5 times in height before continuing and work the next-to-last row in the diagram (with white star) a total of 2-3-4 times. On the last row decrease 3-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP = 139-157-172 stitches. When A.4 has been completed the piece measures approx. 44-46-48 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”.
Work A.2a-A.2c in the same way as earlier, but on the last row increase 0-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced = 139-160-172 stitches.
Work pattern as follows: A.3a over the first 4 stitches, A.3b over the next 3-3-9 stitches (= 1-1-3 repeats), A.5 (= 21 stitches) a total of 6-7-7 times, A.3d over the next 3-3-9 stitches (= 1-1-3 repeats) and A.3e over the last 3 stitches.
Repeat the row with the white star at the beginning of the diagram a total of 1-2-3 times in height before continuing and repeat the next-to-last row in the diagram (with white star) a total of 1-2-3 times. On the last row decrease 0-3-0 double crochets evenly spaced = 139-157-172 stitches.
Now work A.2a-A.2c in the same way as earlier. The piece measures approx. 69-73-77 cm = 27 1/8”-28 3/4”-30 3/8” from the shoulder down.
Cut and fasten strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in each and every stitch so that the seam shows as little as possible. Sew a button onto each side of the front piece: Sew the buttons inside the 2 double crochets on middle row of A.4 (i.e., on the row where the flower is widest). Work a loop for the button on each side of the back piece as follows: Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch on the middle row of A.4 (same row the buttons were fastened to), work 8 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in edge. Cut and fasten strand.

NECK EDGE AND SPLIT IN FRONT:
Fasten strand with 1 single crochet at bottom of split mid front and work * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, 1 single crochet *, work from *-* up to neck edge, work 1 extra chain-space in corner and continue with chain-spaces around the neck, work 1 extra chain-space in corner on the other side of neck, mid front and work down the split to beginning of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet worked. Cut and fasten strand.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 4 strands each 1.5 metres = 57” in length. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knit in each end of the cord and make 1 more cord in the same way. Thread each cord through the crochet-edge on the corner of the neck on each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 chain stitch
= 5 chain stitches
= 1 single crochet around chain-space
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain-space
= work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER (in stitch) as follows: Work 1 double crochet in stitch but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work the next double crochet in the same stitch; when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on hook
= work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER (around chain-space) as follows: Work 1 double crochet around chain-space but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work the next double crochet around the same chain-space; when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on hook
= work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TO 1 DOUBLE CROCHET (in stitch) as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 more double crochet in next stitch; the last yarn over is pulled through all 3 loops on hook
= 1 double treble crochet in stitch
= Work 2 HALF DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook through next chain-space, pick up strand *, work from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through all 5 loops on hook (= 1 half double crochet decreased)
= Work 1 FIVE TREBLE CROCHET as follows: Make 5 yarn overs, insert hook through stitch to be worked, make 1 yarn over and pull it through (= 7 loops on hook), * 1 yarn over, pull it through the first/next 2 loops on hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times = 1 stitch on hook
= Work 12-12-15 loose chain stitches for neck - read description in text
= At end of this row cut the strand - read description in text
= The strand was cut on previous row and you have now worked 12-12-15 loose chain stitches - continue pattern from here
= Start on next row in diagram. This row has already been worked and just shows you how the next row is worked
= Row repeated in height before continuing - read description in text






Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Le Dang 23.07.2020 - 13:18:

Hi, For the Row 3 in Back Piece, shouldn’t it be: “ROW 3: A.1c, A.1d, A.1b over the next 16-19-21 chain-spaces, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 29-29-32 chain stitches, continue with A.1b over the next 16-19-21 chain-spaces and finish with A.1a = 139-157-172 stitches.” If I understand it well, A.1d should be done before doing A.1b over the next 16 chain-spaces. Could you please check it? Many thanks!

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 09:13:

Dear Mrs Le Dang, pattern is right like this, from WS you will work the diagram in the reversed order - read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Susan 28.06.2020 - 23:40:

Working on pattern Carefree Summer and have 2 questions: #1: if I am told to do A.1a and A.1b do I do first row of A.1a and then first row of A.1b and then second row of A.1a and A.1b? #2: why do I end up with 6 stitches at the end of Row 2 and then chain 29?

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:03:

Dear Susan, you work first row of A.1a, then repeat first row of A.1b over the remaining stitches (on next row work row 2 in A.1b, then row 2 in A.1a - read more about diagrams here). At the end of left shoulder you will crochet 29 chains for the neck and continue row working over the stitches from right shoulder. Happy crocheting!

Myrte 16.04.2020 - 01:00:

Be carefull, so many translation page are incorrect. They write you use treble crochet but if you use it, the shirt will be too long. So you should stay to the original pattern. You HAVE to use double crochet. A magyar erp-t ír helyesen, viszont van benne elírás.

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 10:09:

Dear Myrte, make sure you are reading the appropriate English pattern, 1 treble crochet (UK-English) = 1 double crochet (US-English). read more here. Happy crocheting!

Fátima 16.03.2020 - 13:16:

MUITO LINDA !!!!!

Marie Bonche 04.08.2019 - 14:50:

Mille excuses : j'ai retrouvé mes 2 mailles manquantes. Étourdie ! Lol

Marie Bonche 04.08.2019 - 14:43:

Bjr, je suis au 3 ème rg du dos et je trouve 137 m : 6m de A1c, 3x16 brides=48m de A1b, 29 brides de l'encolure, 48 brides de A1b et 6m de A1c. Ai je oublié des mailles ou s'agit il d'une erreur ? Merci de votre réponse. Bien cordialement

Helen 02.08.2019 - 21:10:

Ik kom op het achterpand niet uit bij patroon 3, wat ik ook doe ik kom niet aan die 157 steken. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 10.08.2019 kl. 18:08:

Dag Helen,

Na het opzetten van beide schouders heb je 64 steken van de rechter en 64 steken van de linker schouder na TOER 1, als je dan toer 2 haakt komen er nog 29 lossen bij om beide delen met elkaar te verbinden, waardoor je op een totaal van 157 steken komt. Bij TOER 3 haak je A.1c (= 6 steken), A.1b over 19 lossenlussen (= 57 steken), A.1d (= 1 steek), 29 stokjes over de 29 lossen, A.1d (= 1 steek), A.1b over 19 lossenlussen (= 57 steken), A.1c (= 6 steken). Hierdoor kom je op een totaal van 157 steken.

GARGI DUTTA 26.07.2019 - 19:43:

I do not understand row 3 of back piece."A.1c, A.1b over the next 16 chain spaces" . Each shoulder has 55 stitches. May I do 4 double treble in consecutive 4 stitches , then 2 chain stitches, then 1 double treble in 3rd next stitch, then 2 chain stitches like this. Please advice what is done in row 3 and explain top most line of fig A.1. Is it row 4 ?

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 10:37:

Dear Mrs Dutta, you crochet A.1b a total of 16 times (= over the next 16 chain spaces from row 2 (= 16 x 3 sts = 48 sts + A.1c + A.1d = 55 sts). A.1 is only 3 rows, the first row is explained in the pattern (= row 1 worked with trebles), then row 2 (with chain spaces in A.1b), then row 3 worked on the same row on both shoulders + over the chains worked for neck. Happy crocheting!

Susan Weber 04.07.2019 - 21:08:

I do not understand Row 2 of the back piece..."work A.1a (=7 stitches), A. 1b (=3 stitches) over the remaining....Does this mean I just do double stitch on all 57 stitches? Sorry...please advise what is done on row 2.

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 01:50:

Dear Susan, in row 2, first you do pattern A.a (which take up 7 stitches) then repeat the 3 stitches of pattern A.1b over the stitches remaing on the row. (The first row of pattern A.1 consists of treble (UK) stitches). Happy Crocheting!

Lynn 21.05.2019 - 21:13:

What does this mean please? = Start on next row in diagram. This row has already been worked and just shows you how the next row is worked

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 09:15:

Dear Lynn, the row with a black star is showing the previous row you already worked, it just help you to understand how the first stitches in pattern/diagram will have to be worked/lined up. Start working diagram on the row after the one with the star. Happy crocheting!

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Carefree Summer

Cosima Schlegel, Liechtenstein