Sweet Jasmine by DROPS Design
Crocheted poncho in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked with flower pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Full length: 62-73-82 cm = 24 3/8”-28 3/4”-32 1/4”
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400 g color 01, off white
CROCHET GAUGE:
3 flowers and 3 chain-spaces measure approx. 17 cm = 6 3/4” in width. A.2 measures approx. 5½ cm = 2 1/8” in width.
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine 100% Wool |
from 4.20 $ /50g | |||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||||||
NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 (A.5 shows how to crochet the 2 sections together).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in 2 sections which are worked together to finish. There are 2 different patterns for the poncho: One with diagrams and one with further explanation to the diagrams.
PONCHO (pattern with diagrams):
Start with hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Merino Extra Fine and work pattern as follows:
Work A.1, A.2 a total of 5-6-7 times, A.3. Continue back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 to A.3 have been completed in height, repeat rows 3 to 6 until the piece measures approx. 64-74-84 cm = 25 1/4”-29 1/8”-33” – adjust so you finish after row 4. Do not cut the strand! Continue from EDGE ALONG SIDE (further down the pattern)!
PONCHO (pattern with explanations to the diagrams):
Start with hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Merino Extra Fine and work pattern as follows:
ROW 1: Work A.1 as follows: 7 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (= chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work A.2 as follows: * 11 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets) *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.3 as follows: 11 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROW 2: Work A.3 as follows: 3 chain stitches, around first chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 1 slip stitch around first chain-space in A.3 on row below, 8 chain stitches. Work A.2 as follows: * 1 slip stitch in last chain stitch on same chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around next chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 1 slip stitch around next chain-space on row below, 8 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.1 as follows: 1 slip stitch in last chain stitch on same chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around next chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 1 slip stitch in last chain stitch on row below.
ROW 3: Work A.1 as follows: 11 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets. Work 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain-space on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 4 chain stitches. Work A.2 as follows: * 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (= chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets, skip 2 chain-spaces on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around the same chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain-space on row below, 1 slip stitch around the same chain-space, 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.3 as follows: 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (= chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets, skip 2 chain-spaces on row below, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around the same chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches). Skip 1 chain-space on the row below, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space.
ROW 4: Work A.3 as follows: 9 chain stitches, skip 2 chain stitches on row below, 1 slip stitch in next chain stitch, 3 chain stitches. Around first chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work A.2 as follows: * 1 slip stitch around next chain-space on row below, 8 chain stitches, skip 1 slip stitch + 2 chain stitches on row below, 1 slip stitch in next chain stitch, 3 chain stitches. Around next chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets) *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.1 as follows: 1 slip stitch around next chain-space on row below, 8 chain stitches, skip 1 slip stitch + 2 chain stitches on row below, 1 slip stitch in next chain stitch, 3 chain stitches. Around the last chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets).
ROW 5: Work A.1 as follows: 10 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets, skip 2 chain-spaces on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around the same chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work A.2 as follows: * 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain-space from row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 10 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets, skip 2 chain-spaces on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around the same chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets) *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.3 as follows: 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain-space on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 10 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from the hook (=chain-stitch ring), 3 chain stitches, turn the piece. Around the chain-stitch ring work 2 double crochets, skip 2 chain-spaces on row below, 1 slip stitch around next chain-space, 3 chain stitches. Around the same chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch).
ROW 6: Work A.3 as follows: 3 chain stitches, around the first chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space on row below, 8 chain stitches. Work A.2 as follows: * skip 1 slip stitch + 2 chain stitches on row below, 1 slip stitch in next chain stitch, 3 chain stitches. Around the next chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets). Work 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space on row below, 8 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times. Work A.1 as follows: Skip 1 slip stitch + 2 chain stitches on row below, 1 slip stitch in next chain stitch, 3 chain stitches. Around the last chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets), 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space.
Repeat rows 3 to 6 until the piece measures approx. 64-74-84 cm = 25 1/4”-29 1/8”-33” – adjust so that you finish after row 4. Do not cut the strand! Continue with EDGE ALONG SIDE – read description below!
EDGE ALONG SIDE:
From here you continue working along the one side of the piece so there is a complete flower along the side with A.1. Work pattern according to diagram A.4 as follows: * Work 3 chain stitches. Around the chain-stitch ring work (1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets), 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 7 chain stitches, skip 1 slip stitch, work 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space *, work from *-* down the side. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first stitch worked on piece (= first chain stitch in A.1). Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the second section in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Lay the short side (A) on the one section towards the bottom of the other section (B) - see illustration with black star – lay the sides so the flowers on the one section lie between the flowers on the other section.
Work the 2 sections together as shown in A.5 and described below: NOTE: When working slip stitches in the petals, work in the spaces between 2 double crochets.
Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the first petal on section B, * work 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in the next petal on section A, work 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in the next petal on section B, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in the next petal on section A, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space in section B, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the chain-space in section A, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in next petal on section B *, work from *-* along the whole side. Cut and fasten strand. Repeat on back of poncho so the front and back are the same.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Correction - ROW 6: Work A.3 as follows: 3 chain stitches, around the first chain-stitch ring work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets).
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= 1 chain stitch |
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= 1 double crochet around chain-stitch ring |
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= 1 slip stitch around chain-space/ chain-stitch ring |
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= 1 slip stitch in chain stitch |
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= turn the piece |
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= start here |
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= illustration shows how the 2 sections are assembled |
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= 1 slip stitch around chain-space/around space between 2 double crochets - applies to assembly of the 2 sections - read description in text |
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= the thick line shows the working together of the 2 sections (each line represents 3 chain stitches) - read description in text |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-38) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (26)
Edith Finweg
24.07.2020 - 09:15:
Gibt es für dieses Muster auch ein Dreieckstuch oder Schal? Das Muster ist sooo hübsch. Es wäre schön, wenn Sie eine Anleitung für ein (flaches) Dreieckstuch hätten.
DROPS Design
27.07.2020 kl. 10:21:
Lübbers Claudia
15.05.2020 - 11:22:
Bitte, ich habe Teil A fertig gestellt auf 67 cm Länge, 49 cm breit. Wo finde ich Teil B in der Anleitung? Die Blume an der Seite wird mit einer Reihe fertig und dann?
DROPS Design
15.05.2020 kl. 12:08:
Pamela Soko
10.04.2020 - 04:05:
Hola una consulta...ya tengo las dos partes iguales pero cómo las uno? No quiero equivocarme En el patrón se ve dos partes pero que no son iguales... espero su ayuda
DROPS Design
12.04.2020 kl. 18:13:
Pamela Soko
31.03.2020 - 14:27:
Graciass por su respuesta... necesito su ayuda en lo sgte: Repetir las filas 3-6 hasta que la labor mida aprox 64-74-84 cm ...asumo que 64 cm es small verdad? Esa medida es la total de pecho y espalda o tengo que hacer dos iguales? En esta parte BORDE A LO LARGO DEL LADO: qué significa esto: Trabajar la 2ª sección de la misma manera.?? Graciass graciass graciass Saludos
DROPS Design
31.03.2020 kl. 23:17:
Pamela Soko
28.03.2020 - 17:48:
Hola soy Pamela de Perú estoy haciendo la capa en hilo de algodón doble y con ganchillo 4 Quisiera saber si tienes alguna dirección en Youtube dónde está toda la realización del proyecto... espero que si me ayudarías bastante!!! Saludos
DROPS Design
29.03.2020 kl. 23:16:
Carla
29.02.2020 - 19:57:
Moet a en b 2 x gehaakt worden? en a en b apart aan elkaar gehaakt?
DROPS Design
04.03.2020 kl. 15:31:
Dag Carla,
Je haakt 2 identieke rechthoeken en op het einde haak je deze aan elkaar. De korte kant van de rechthoek wordt A genoemd en de lange kant wordt B genoemd. Op de voorkant wordt de korte kant van het eerste deel tegen de lange kant van het tweede deel vast gemaakt en op de achterkant wordt de korte kant van het tweede deel tegen de lange kant van het eerste deel vast gemaakt.
Anita
12.02.2020 - 14:12:
Dzień dobry, jaka powinna być długość pierwszego rzędu ? Czy robimy dwa prostokąty i łączymy je razem ?
DROPS Design
12.02.2020 kl. 19:45:
Veerle Van Coillie
06.11.2019 - 18:01:
Gewijzigd online: 27.05.2019 Correctie - TOER 6: Haak A.3 als volgt: 3 lossen, haak om De beschrijving klopt wel neem ik aan ? Dit gaat over de teltekening ?
DROPS Design
10.11.2019 kl. 21:40:
Dag Veerle,
Als er een correctie op het patroon is, dan is deze correctie al doorgevoerd op het online patroon. Als je voor de datum van de correctie een afdruk hebt gemaakt, dan is de correctie dus nog niet verwerkt in je afdruk.
Lara
07.10.2019 - 06:57:
Complimenti per il bellissimo poncho! Purtroppo dalle indicazioni non mi è chiaro se è il risultato di due rettangoli di uguale lunghezza, 64 cm. Così nelle indicazioni delle due sezioni, mentre dal grafico finale una sezione appare più piccola. Potreste aiutarmi? Arrivata alla seconda sezione non so quanto farla grande. Grazie!
DROPS Design
07.10.2019 kl. 07:50:
From the #dropsfan gallery
Sweet Jasmine
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With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 255 catalogs and 9441 patterns - 8960 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Dank voor dit prachtige patroon; ik ven enorm blij met het eindresultaat!