DROPS / 200 / 32

Beach Paradise by DROPS Design

Crochet poncho with stripes in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is crocheted top down with 2 strands Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-851
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Finished measurements:
Full length: 42-46-48 cm = 16 1/2”-18”-19”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450 g color 100, off white
50-100-100 g color 2110, wheat
100-100-100 g color 2923, goldenrod
100-100-150 g color 618, light beige
150-150-150 g color 302, camel beige

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

ACCESSORIES: 6 wooden beads for decoration – with ½ cm = 1/8” hole (in diameter) in the middle so they can be thread easily.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP:
Replace first double crochet on round with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3.

STRIPES:
Work 4 stripes, work every stripe with 2 strands.
STRIPE 1: Work 10½-11½-12 cm = 4 1/8”-4 1/2”-4 3/4” with off white and wheat.
STRIPE 2: Work 10½-11½-12 cm = 4 1/8”-4 1/2”-4 3/4” with off white and goldenrod.
STRIPE 3: Work 10½-11½-12 cm = 4 1/8”-4 1/2”-4 3/4” with off white and light beige.
STRIPE 4: Work 10½-11½-12 cm = 4 1/8”-4 1/2”-4 3/4” with off white and camel beige.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round, top down. Work entire piece in 2 strands Alpaca with STRIPES - see explanation above.

PONCHO:
Work 128-144-162 chain stitches with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and 1 strand off white and 1 strand wheat. Form a ring by working 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.

ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet – READ CROCHET TIP in explanation above, work 1 double crochet in each of the first 6-7-7 double crochets, skip 1 chain stitch, * work 1 double crochet in each of the next 7-8-8 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, work from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet = 112-128-144 double crochets.

ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 27-31-35 double crochets, * work 4 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 28-32-36 double crochets *, work from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 4 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. There are now 4 chain spaces on round with 28-32-36 double crochets between each of the chain spaces. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Now work according to diagrams A.1-A.3 as follows:
NOTE: Round with star has already been worked, begin on next round
Work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before the first chain space, work A.2 one time (= first shoulder), work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before next chain space, work A.3 one time (= mid front, insert a marker here), work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before next chain space, work A.2 one time (= other shoulder), work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before the last chain space, work A.3 one time (= mid back, insert a marker here) and finish round with 1 slip stitch in first stitch. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 176-192-208 stitches on round.

Now the increase at the shoulders is done. Only increase mid front and mid back onwards. Work according to diagrams A.1 and A.3 as follows:
Work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before the first chain space with marker (= mid front), work A.3 one time, work A.1 until 2 double crochets remain before the next chain space with marker (= mid back), work A.3 one time and finish with 1 slip stitch in first stitch. Continue to work like this until all stripes are done, piece measures approx. 42-46-48 cm = 16 1/2”-18”-19” from neck to bottom, along the shortest side, adjust so that last round is a round with double crochets (2nd or 4th round in A.1/A.3). Fasten off.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 4 lengths off white and 4 lengths wheat of 5 metres = 200” each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Fasten 3 beads at each end of string. Tie a knot at the ends so that the strings is twined and the beads stay on. Cut the end of string on the underside of knot so that the end fringes. Pull the string up and down in 3rd round around the neck - start and finish mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= chain stitch
= this round has already been worked, begin on next round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Sigrid Seydel 09.11.2019 - 14:03:

Ich freue mich auf neues

Lenka 06.11.2019 - 09:56:

A 3.-ik sorban az A1 mintát ha közvetlenül a 4 láncszem után kezdem, akkor nem jön ki a következő láncszemcsoportoknál az A2 minta. Kérhetnék segítséget,hogy a 3.-ik sort hogyan kezdjem?

Betty Boon 13.10.2019 - 18:40:

Your patterns are being sold on eBay in the UK

Laurence 11.10.2019 - 09:38:

J’ai résolu mon problème, je n’ai pas fait de ml avant et après l’arceau pour le devant et le dos, et après les augmentations j’ai bien 192 m. Le dessin est valable pour la suite du modèle, ce sont les explications qui sont fausses pour les augmentations. Problème de nombre de mailles pair et intervalles !

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 09:49:

Bonjour Laurence, si, au 1er rang, vous répétez bien (1 b, 1 ml = A.1) 13-15-17 fois (et non 14-16-18 comme dans la réponse précédente), vous avez bien 26-30-34 mailles avant les 2 brides avant l'arceau, ces 2 brides figurent dans A.2. Bon crochet!

Laurence 10.10.2019 - 23:32:

Quelque chose ne va pas entre le texte et le graphique : A1 jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 2 br, 1br, 1 ml, 2br-4-ml-2 br dans l’arceau, 1ml, on passe une br et on recommence A1, jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 2 br, mais là, dans la suite logique de A1, on doit faire une ml sur la 1ère des 2 dernières br puis 1 br dans la dernière des brides. Si on ajoute 1 ml avant de faire les brides de l’arceau on aura trop de mailles à la fin. Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Laurence, vous crochetez A.1 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 brides avant l'arceau (= soit 14-16-28 x A.1 = on termine au 1er rang par 1 ml, on saute la bride suivante), puis dans les 2 brides suivantes (les 2 brides avant l'arceau) vous crochetez A.2: 1 bride dans la 1ère des 2 brides avant l'arceau, puis 1 ml, 2 b, 4 ml, 2 b dans l'arceau, 1 ml, on saute la 1ère b après l'arceau, et on continue A.1: *1 b dans la b suivante, 1 ml, on saute 1 b*. Bon crochet!

Amany 10.09.2019 - 15:55:

How are you getting 176 stitches in round 3.... by calculating we must have (28*4 =112 stitches) plus the stitches in each chain space (8*4 =32 stitches) ,by that must have: 144 stitches!!! why do you have 176!!

Amany 10.09.2019 - 15:10:

Hello, starting A1 in the round 3 will be from the first stitch of the round 2 or the second, because according to the diagram after the 2 double crochet in the chain space there is a chain...and that end with me with a double crochet before the second chain space!! can you help me plz?

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 16:04:

Dear Anamy, on round 1 and 3 in A.1 you are working 1 double crochet in the double crochet and 1 double crochet around the chain; on round 1 and 3 in .A1 you will crochet 1 dc in the dc, crochet 1 ch and skip 1 dc. At the beg of the round, always replace the 1st dc with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round. So that at the beg of round 1 and 3 you will crochet 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 ch (= 1st ch-space). Happy crocheting!

Dina 07.08.2019 - 12:03:

Hej! Nu har jag räknat på diagrammet och jag undrar om det kan vara en otydlighet eller ett missförstånd. (Jag virkar den minsta stl.) Sista var varvet innan diagrammet (egentligen första varvet m stjärna) har jag 28 stolpar med 4 luftmaskor mellan = 128 maskor. Sedan ökas varven med 16 luftmaskor dvs andra varvet i diagrammet blir 144, nästa 160, nästa 176 och det sista ökas endast med 8 och blir därför 184. Tänkte om 176 i beskrivningen var innan sista varvet virkas?

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 10:51:

Hej Dina, vi forstår ikke rigtig dit spørgsmål. Men hvis du følger diagrammet, så ser du at det er 2 forskellige omgange som gentages igennem hele ponchoen (ett varv med st i varje m, och ett varv med 1lm mellan varje st). Og der virkas 4 nya stolpar i varje hörn (2st, 2lm, 2st). Lycka till :)

Ingrid Van Sloun 06.08.2019 - 17:27:

Maar als ik 32 stokjes tussen de bogen heb, dan kan ik toch nooit beginnen en eindigen met een losse? Of wordt die laatste losse voor de twee stokjes van de hoek niet boven het laatste stokje (dus stokje 32 van de vorige toer) gehaakt?

DROPS Design 10.08.2019 kl. 16:44:

Dag Ingrid,

Ik heb het patroon nog een keer goed bekeken en ik denk dat het in dit geval zo is dat je niet precies uit hoeft te komen met een losse boven een stokje van de vorige toer.

Dina 06.08.2019 - 15:16:

Har nu rivit upp två gånger för att det blivit fel när jag virkar en gång efter diagrammet. Denna andra gång landar jag på 188 maskor och inte 176. Kan ni ange vad resp varv har för antal maskor så jag kan hitta mitt fel? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 12:52:

Hej Dina, du tager ud/øker 4 st i varje hörn. Lycka till :)

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