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  1. Free patterns
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  3. Tops
  4. DROPS
  5. 199
  6. 51

Sunny Island by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted in garter stitch and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: bottom up, garter stitch, lace, round neck, sleeveless, top

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DROPS 199-51
DROPS design: Pattern w-745
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 101, light blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 33 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7, length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side!

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Decrease as follows inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the beginning of row: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of row: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armhole):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows at the beginning of row from right side (= left armhole): Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows at the end of row from right side (= right armhole): Work until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the last 2 stitches on needle.

DECREASE TIP-3 (applies to neck):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows on every row towards the neck: Work until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the last 2 stitches before the neck.
Decrease as follows on every row from the neck: Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts and sewn together when finished. Work in garter stitch and lace pattern and work bottom up.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 84-90-98-106-116-126 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Paris. Work ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, for 1-3-4-1-2-4 cm = 3/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-3/8”-3/4”-1 1/2”. Now work pattern - choose diagram for your size, as follows: Work 15-18-22-24-29-34 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-15-15-15 stitches, A.2 over the next 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches, A.3 over the next 13-13-13-14-14-14 stitches, 16-19-23-25-30-35 stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 8-9-10-5-6-7 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2”-4”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”, begin decrease in each side – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this approx. every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2” 7 times in total = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Continue pattern A.1 to A.3 until they have been worked a total of 3 times vertically. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”, bind off 4-5-6-7-8-9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armhole). Decrease like this on every row from right side 3-4-6-8-10-12 times in total = 56-58-60-62-66-70 stitches.
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 3 times in total vertically, work the first 20-20-20-22-22-22 rows in diagrams, then work 2 ridges over all stitches on needle. Now work as follows: Work the first 12-13-13-14-15-17 stitches, bind off the next 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches for neck and work the remaining 12-13-13-14-15-17 stitches. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue back and forth in garter stitch but on next row from right side decrease 1 stitch for neck by knitting 2 stitches together inside 2 stitches in garter stitch towards/from the neck – read DECREASE TIP-3 = 11-12-12-13-14-16 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2-4”-4” from where stitches were bind off for neck, bind off. Piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on as on front piece and follows explanation for front piece until pattern A.1 to A.3 have been completed. I.e. work 3 repetitions vertically + the first 20-20-20-22-22-22 rows in diagrams (at the same time bind off for armholes the same way as on front piece = 56-58-60-62-66-70 stitches on needle when bind off for armholes is done). Now work 2 ridges over all stitches on needle, then bind off for neck as follows: Work the first 17-18-18-19-20-22 stitches, bind off the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches for neck and work the remaining 17-18-18-19-20-22 stitches. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue back and forth with garter stitch, but on every row from right side decrease for neck inside 2 stitches in garter stitch towards/from neck – remember DECREASE TIP-3. Decrease like this on every row from right side 6 times in total = 11-12-12-13-14-16 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4” from where stitches were bind off for neck - adjust according to front piece, bind off. Piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew side seams from armhole and down.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row knit yarn over to make hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-51) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Gumby100 wrote:

The description says to knit A1 then A2 then A3, but to achieve the diamonds in the image, shouldn't it be knit in the order of A.3 then A.2 then A.1?

05.02.2021 - 06:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gymby100, in order to get the diamonds working you have to start row from RS with A.1, then repeat A.2 and finish with A.3 - from wrong side work A.3, repeat A.2 and finish with A.1 (reading now from the left towards the right). Happy knitting!

05.02.2021 kl. 08:59

country flag Pirjo Björk wrote:

Står i beskrivningen vid avmaskning för ärmhål ( Bakstycket) för storlek M, att man ska maska av 5 maskor i början av de nästa två varven till ärmhål. Enligt minskningstipset görs alla minskningar från rätsidan. Minskar man genom att sticka två maskor räta tillsammans gånger fem i början på arbetet ? Gör man likadant på slutet av samma varv? Tycker det står så dumt !!!!!

24.08.2020 - 14:39

country flag Bruna Guareschi wrote:

Buongiorno non riesco a capire i diagrammi forse devo metterli in ordine 3-2-1 anziché 1-2-3? Grazie

17.04.2020 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Bruna. I diagrammi sono disposti nell'ordine corretto e vanno eseguiti dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra (sui ferri di andata), da sinistra verso destra sui ferri di ritorno. Segua il diagramma corretto per la taglia che sta lavorando. Buon lavoro!

17.04.2020 kl. 13:08

country flag Chiara wrote:

Sono confusa. Nele spiegazioni dite di lavorare a punto legaccio prima dei motivi e infatti la foto mostra che tra i rombi del disegno i punti sono legaccio però poi negli schemi dei 3 motivi fate lavorare a maglia rasata.... potete essermi più precisi ? Grazie

19.03.2020 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Chiara. Le indicazioni dello schema sono di lavorare a diritto sia sui ferri di andata che su quelli di ritorno così da ottenere il punto legaccio tra i rombi. Buon lavoro!

19.03.2020 kl. 23:18

country flag Chiara wrote:

Ma perchè dite di lavorare coni ferri circolari se poi spiegate il diritto e il rovscio e di cucire insieme le due parti??? grazie

16.03.2020 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Chiara. Quando si lavora avanti e indietro, può sostituire i ferri circolari con i ferri dritti. L'uso dei ferri circolari è molto diffuso soprattutto nel nord dell'Europa, ma in modelli come questo può usare i ferri con cui si trova più a suo agio. Buon lavoro!

16.03.2020 kl. 15:34

country flag Mary wrote:

What does a knit from wrong side mean? How do I do it?

20.07.2019 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, when you knit in rowe back and forth you have one side of piece right (front) and the second side wrong (inside of the future top). This top we knit in garter stitch, thats mean both sides (right and wrong as well) are knit. Happy knitting!

20.07.2019 kl. 17:36

country flag Mariadomenica wrote:

Non riesco a capire scusa la mia cocciutaggine (ho iniziato con 126 maglie e per 4 cm a maglia legaccio) ma non riesco ad andare avanti se gentilmente mi puoi mettere il.numero esatto di maglie solo per il primo ferro .la mia taglia è XXXL.scusami e ti ringrazio

31.05.2019 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, dopo i 4 cm a legaccio deve lavorare 34 maglie a legaccio, 15 maglie con il diagramma A.1, 28 maglie con il diagramma A.2, 14 maglie con il diagramma A.3 e 35 maglie a legaccio. I diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra. Buon lavoro!

31.05.2019 kl. 22:10

country flag Mariadomenica wrote:

Gentilmente mi potete rispondere il più presto possibile sono impaziente grazie

31.05.2019 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, cerchiamo di rispondere il prima possibile. Buon lavoro!

31.05.2019 kl. 21:41

country flag Mariadomenica wrote:

Non riesco a capire il numero di maglie del primo ferro( taglia XXXL)che bisogna fare.gentilmente mi puoi scrivere esattamente come bisogna fare solo il primo mi faccio il conto ma non mi trovo.graxie

31.05.2019 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, per la taglia XXXL deve avviare 126 maglie e lavorare a maglia legaccio per 4 cm. Poi deve lavorare come segue seguendo il diagramma della sua taglia: 34 maglie a legaccio, diagramma A.1 su 15 maglie, diagramma A.2 su 28 maglie, diagramma A.3 su 14 maglie, 35 maglie a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

31.05.2019 kl. 21:39

country flag Mariadomenica wrote:

Non riesco a capire il numero di maglie del primo ferro( taglia XXXL)che bisogna fare.gentilmente mi puoi scrivere esattamente come bisogna fare solo il primo mi faccio il conto ma non mi trovo.graxie

31.05.2019 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, per la taglia XXXL deve avviare 126 maglie e lavorare a maglia legaccio per 4 cm. Poi deve lavorare come segue seguendo il diagramma della sua taglia: 34 maglie a legaccio, diagramma A.1 su 15, diagramma A.2 su 28 maglie, diagramma A.3 su 14 maglie, 35 maglie a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

31.05.2019 kl. 21:39

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.