DROPS / 199 / 51

Sunny Island by DROPS Design

Tílko - top bez rukávů s vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost S - XXXL.

  • Sunny Island / DROPS 199-51 - Tílko - top bez rukávů s vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost S - XXXL.
  • Sunny Island / DROPS 199-51 - Tílko - top bez rukávů s vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost S - XXXL.
  • Sunny Island / DROPS 199-51 - Tílko - top bez rukávů s vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost S - XXXL.
  • Sunny Island / DROPS 199-51 - Tílko - top bez rukávů s vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Paris. Velikost S - XXXL.
DROPS design: model č. w-745
Skupina přízí C nebo A + A
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VELIKOST:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIÁL:
DROPS PARIS firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g, barva č. 101, světlá modrá

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
17 ok na šířku a 33 řad na výšku vroubkovým vzorem = 10 x 10 cm.

JEHLICE:
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.4,5, dlouhá 60 nebo 80 cm.
Uvedená síla jehlic je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice slabší.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% bavlna
od 35.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 40.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 35.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 280Kč. Více zde.

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce; pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady.

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.3. Zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost. Zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.

TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 1 (boky):
Vedle 1 krajového oka vroubkovým vzorem na začátku řady splétáme 2 oka hladce.
Vedle 1 krajového oka vroubkovým vzorem na konci řady ujímáme přetažením, tj. 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.

TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 2 (průramky):
Ujímáme vždy v lícových řadách!
Na začátku lícové řady ujímáme takto (= levý průramek): upleteme 2 oka vroubkovým vzorem, 2 oka spleteme hladce (= ujmuli jsme 1 oko).
Na konci lícové řady ujímáme takto (= pravý průramek): pleteme po poslední 4 oka na jehlici, 2 oka spleteme hladce (= ujmuli jsme 1 oko), upleteme poslední 2 oka.

TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 3 (průkrčník):
Ujímáme vždy v lícových řadách!
V každé řadě před průkrčníkem ujímáme takto: pleteme po poslední 4 oka, 2 oka spleteme hladce (= ujmuli jsme 1 oko), upleteme poslední 2 oka před průkrčníkem.
V každé řadě za průkrčníkem ujímáme takto: upleteme 2 oka vroubkovým vzorem, 2 oka spleteme hladce (= ujmuli jsme 1 oko).

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POPIS PRÁCE:
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TOP - JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Pleteme v řadách na kruhové jehlici ve dvou dílech, které nakonec sešijeme. Postupujeme zdola nahoru a pleteme vroubkovým a ažurovým vzorem.

PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.4,5 nahodíme přízí Paris 84-90-98-106-116-126 ok a pleteme VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM – viz výše. Ve výši 1-3-4-1-2-4 cm začneme plést ažurový vzor – zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost – takto: 15-18-22-24-29-34 ok upleteme vroubkovým vzorem, 14-14-14-15-15-15 ok vzorem A.1, 26-26-26-28-28-28 ok vzorem A.2, 13-13-13-14-14-14 ok vzorem A.3, 16-19-23-25-30-35 ok vroubkovým vzorem. Ve výši 8-9-10-5-6-7 cm začneme na obou stranách dílu ujímat – viz TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 1. Takto ujímáme vždy po 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm výšky, celkem 7x = 70-76-84-92-102-112 ok. Pokračujeme v pletení vzoru A.1 až A.3 – upleteme celkem 3 celé sekvence (na výšku). SOUČASNĚ ve výši 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm uzavřeme na začátku každé z následujících 2 řad 4-5-6-7-8-9 ok (= průramky). Pak dále ujímáme po 1 oku vedle 2 krajních ok vroubkovým vzorem na každé straně dílu - viz TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 2 (průramky): ujímání opakujeme v každé lícové řadě, celkem 3-4-6-8-10-12x = 56-58-60-62-66-70 ok.
Když upleteme celkem 3 celé sekvence vzoru A.1 až A.3 (na výšku), upleteme prvních 20-20-20-22-22-22 řad vzoru, pak 2 vroubky nad všemi oky. Pokračujeme takto: upleteme prvních 12-13-13-14-15-17 ok, následujících 32-32-34-34-36-36 ok uzavřeme (= průkrčník) a upleteme zbylých 12-13-13-14-15-17 ok. Obě náramenice pak dokončíme odděleně. Pleteme v řadách vroubkovým vzorem, jen v následující lícové řadě ujmeme na okraji průkrčníku ještě 1 oko (tj. 2 oka vedle 2 vroubkových ok na okraji průkrčníku spleteme hladce – viz TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 3) = zbývá 11-12-12-13-14-16 ok každé náramenice. Ve výši 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm od uzavřených ok průkrčníku všechna zbylá oka uzavřeme. Díl měří asi 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm (od ramene).

ZADNÍ DÍL:
Nahodíme stejně jako u předního dílu a postupujeme stejně až do chvíle, kdy dokončíme vzory A.1 až A.3. Tj. upleteme 3 sekvence (na výšku) + prvních 20-20-20-22-22-22 řad vzoru (současně uzavřeme oka po průramky, stejně jako na předním dílu) = po dokončení průramků máme na jehlici 56-58-60-62-66-70 ok. Pak upleteme 2 vroubky nad všemi oky a začneme tvarovat průkrčník, takto:
Upleteme prvních 17-18-18-19-20-22 ok, následujících 22-22-24-24-26-26 ok uzavřeme a upleteme zbylých 17-18-18-19-20-22 ok. Obě náramenice pak dokončíme odděleně. Pleteme v řadách vroubkovým vzorem, ale v každé lícové řadě ujmeme na okraji průkrčníku 2 oka – viz TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ 3. Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé lícové řadě, celkem 6x = zbývá 11-12-12-13-14-16 ok každé náramenice. Ve výši 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm od uzavřených ok průkrčníku (přizpůsobíme přednímu dílu) všechna zbylá oka uzavřeme. Díl měří asi 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm (od ramene).

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme náramenice. Sešijeme postranní švy.

Schéma

symbols = líc hladce
symbols = rub hladce
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky, v následující řadě pleteme nahození hladce - vznikne dírka
symbols = 2 oka spleteme hladce
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
diagram
diagram
diagram
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signature

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 199-51) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (12)

country flag Gumby100 05.02.2021 - 06:09:

The description says to knit A1 then A2 then A3, but to achieve the diamonds in the image, shouldn't it be knit in the order of A.3 then A.2 then A.1?

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 08:59:

Dear Gymby100, in order to get the diamonds working you have to start row from RS with A.1, then repeat A.2 and finish with A.3 - from wrong side work A.3, repeat A.2 and finish with A.1 (reading now from the left towards the right). Happy knitting!

country flag Pirjo Björk 24.08.2020 - 14:39:

Står i beskrivningen vid avmaskning för ärmhål ( Bakstycket) för storlek M, att man ska maska av 5 maskor i början av de nästa två varven till ärmhål. Enligt minskningstipset görs alla minskningar från rätsidan. Minskar man genom att sticka två maskor räta tillsammans gånger fem i början på arbetet ? Gör man likadant på slutet av samma varv? Tycker det står så dumt !!!!!

country flag Bruna Guareschi 17.04.2020 - 12:42:

Buongiorno non riesco a capire i diagrammi forse devo metterli in ordine 3-2-1 anziché 1-2-3? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 17.04.2020 kl. 13:08:

Buongiorno Bruna. I diagrammi sono disposti nell'ordine corretto e vanno eseguiti dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra (sui ferri di andata), da sinistra verso destra sui ferri di ritorno. Segua il diagramma corretto per la taglia che sta lavorando. Buon lavoro!

country flag Chiara 19.03.2020 - 19:23:

Sono confusa. Nele spiegazioni dite di lavorare a punto legaccio prima dei motivi e infatti la foto mostra che tra i rombi del disegno i punti sono legaccio però poi negli schemi dei 3 motivi fate lavorare a maglia rasata.... potete essermi più precisi ? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2020 kl. 23:18:

Buongiorno Chiara. Le indicazioni dello schema sono di lavorare a diritto sia sui ferri di andata che su quelli di ritorno così da ottenere il punto legaccio tra i rombi. Buon lavoro!

country flag Chiara 16.03.2020 - 15:10:

Ma perchè dite di lavorare coni ferri circolari se poi spiegate il diritto e il rovscio e di cucire insieme le due parti??? grazie

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2020 kl. 15:34:

Buongiorno Chiara. Quando si lavora avanti e indietro, può sostituire i ferri circolari con i ferri dritti. L'uso dei ferri circolari è molto diffuso soprattutto nel nord dell'Europa, ma in modelli come questo può usare i ferri con cui si trova più a suo agio. Buon lavoro!

country flag Mary 20.07.2019 - 12:53:

What does a knit from wrong side mean? How do I do it?

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2019 kl. 17:36:

Dear Mary, when you knit in rowe back and forth you have one side of piece right (front) and the second side wrong (inside of the future top). This top we knit in garter stitch, thats mean both sides (right and wrong as well) are knit. Happy knitting!

country flag Mariadomenica 31.05.2019 - 21:48:

Non riesco a capire scusa la mia cocciutaggine (ho iniziato con 126 maglie e per 4 cm a maglia legaccio) ma non riesco ad andare avanti se gentilmente mi puoi mettere il.numero esatto di maglie solo per il primo ferro .la mia taglia è XXXL.scusami e ti ringrazio

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 22:10:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, dopo i 4 cm a legaccio deve lavorare 34 maglie a legaccio, 15 maglie con il diagramma A.1, 28 maglie con il diagramma A.2, 14 maglie con il diagramma A.3 e 35 maglie a legaccio. I diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra. Buon lavoro!

country flag Mariadomenica 31.05.2019 - 21:28:

Gentilmente mi potete rispondere il più presto possibile sono impaziente grazie

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 21:41:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, cerchiamo di rispondere il prima possibile. Buon lavoro!

country flag Mariadomenica 31.05.2019 - 21:26:

Non riesco a capire il numero di maglie del primo ferro( taglia XXXL)che bisogna fare.gentilmente mi puoi scrivere esattamente come bisogna fare solo il primo mi faccio il conto ma non mi trovo.graxie

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 21:39:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, per la taglia XXXL deve avviare 126 maglie e lavorare a maglia legaccio per 4 cm. Poi deve lavorare come segue seguendo il diagramma della sua taglia: 34 maglie a legaccio, diagramma A.1 su 15 maglie, diagramma A.2 su 28 maglie, diagramma A.3 su 14 maglie, 35 maglie a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

country flag Mariadomenica 31.05.2019 - 21:26:

Non riesco a capire il numero di maglie del primo ferro( taglia XXXL)che bisogna fare.gentilmente mi puoi scrivere esattamente come bisogna fare solo il primo mi faccio il conto ma non mi trovo.graxie

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 21:39:

Buonasera Mariadomenica, per la taglia XXXL deve avviare 126 maglie e lavorare a maglia legaccio per 4 cm. Poi deve lavorare come segue seguendo il diagramma della sua taglia: 34 maglie a legaccio, diagramma A.1 su 15, diagramma A.2 su 28 maglie, diagramma A.3 su 14 maglie, 35 maglie a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

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