DROPS / 199 / 3

Blue Nostalgia by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern on sleeves. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-026
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 100 stitches), and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 10.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 10th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Find your size in the diagrams (applies to A.3 to A.5). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 100-106-110-116-120-126 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Knit 1 round where you increase 10-8-8-10-10-8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-114-118-126-130-134 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch over the first 15-16-17-19-20-21 stitches (= half back piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 over 21 stitches (= sleeve), 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work 30-32-34-38-40-42 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch, work A.1 over 21 stitches (= sleeve), 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the last 15-16-17-19-20-21 stitches (= half back piece). There are now 118-122-126-134-138-142 stitches on the needle.
Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. on the sleeves increase on each side as shown in A.1. On the next round knit the yarn overs (= holes) and the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go as shown in A.1. On front and back pieces increase with yarn overs before/after the 2 stitches in stocking stitch in each side (there will be 2 stitches stocking stitch between each raglan increase). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted (= no holes) and the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round. You increase a total of 8 stitches on each increase-round (= 4 yarn overs + 4 stitches increased in A.1). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height there are 230-234-238-246-250-254 stitches on the needle.
Continue this pattern onwards, i.e. the pattern repeats itself as shown in A.1. Each time you have worked 20 rounds there will be room for 1 more repeat of lace pattern in width on each sleeve.
When you have increased a total of 24-27-29-32-34-38 times there are 302-330-350-382-402-438 stitches on the needle and the piece measures 18-20-22-24-25-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern as before, but without increasing; i.e. the 69-75-79-85-89-97 stitches in A.1 are worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), 2-0-2-0-2-1 stitches in stocking stitch, starting on the round marked with an arrow for your size work A.3 (= 10 stitches), A.4 over the next 40-50-50-60-60-70 stitches (= 4-5-5-6-6-7 reports of 10 stitches), A.5 (= 11 stitches), 2-0-2-0-2-1 stitches in stocking stitch and A.6 (= 2 stitches).
Continue until the piece measures approx. 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 41-45-49-54-59-65 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece), place the next 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 82-90-98-108-118-130 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 41-45-49-54-59-65 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-220-240-264-288 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they will be used a little later when decreasing/increasing. Work stocking stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 168-184-204-224-248-272 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 14 cm from the division. Now increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 7 times = 196-212-232-252-276-300 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm from the division. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Loosely cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4 mm. The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-85-89-95-97-103 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used a little later when decreasing. Start the round at the marker thread. Start on the correct round in the diagrams so that the pattern continues from the yoke and work as follows: Work 4-2-4-2-3-1 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3 (= 10 stitches), A.4 over the next 50-60-60-70-70-80 stitches (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5 (= 11 stitches) and 4-2-4-2-3-1 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 14-15-15-16-15-16 times = 51-55-59-63-67-71 stitches. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern as you decrease are worked in stocking stitch, but make sure that if decreases are in the pattern you also make a yarn over. Continue working until the piece measures 21-19-19-17-15-14 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Loosely cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4 mm. Sleeve measures approx. 22-20-20-18-16-15 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= shows 1 repeat in height and how the lace patterns are positioned above each other
= this square has no stitch; go straight to the next symbol in the diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

Lucia Milti 24.11.2019 - 20:42:

Scusate ma la risposta non mi aiuta io ho chiesto come faccio a proseguire A1 con 51 punti se nella descrizione dite di ripetere dall'asterisco dove ci sono 31 punti?

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 09:13:

Buongiorno Lucia. Dopo l'ultima gettata, riprende con: 2 m dir, passa 1 m a dir senza lavorarla, 1 m dir, accavalla la m passata, 1 m rov e così via (se può aiutarla riprende dalla 12a m della riga con 31 maglie). Verifichi che il motivo sia incolonnato correttamente. Buon lavoro!

Lucia 23.11.2019 - 19:25:

Sono arrivata alla fine del A1 mi dite di ricominciare dalla ruga con l'asterisco ma ci sono 31 punti e io ne ho 51 come faccio? e poi di fianco alla A3 ci sono tutte le taglie cosa vuol dire io ho una L quale devo scegliere? grazie urgente

DROPS Design 24.11.2019 kl. 17:32:

Buonasera Lucia, deve continuare a lavorare A.1 sulle maglie a disposizione. La freccia di fianco al diagramma A.3 indica il punto di inizio per le diverse taglie come indicato nelle spiegazioni. Buon lavoro!

Marleen Lowel 07.10.2019 - 16:59:

Heeft iemand oplossing voor probleem dat blouse van schouders valt?

Chris Hannes 04.10.2019 - 20:35:

Lieve Dropsdame, ik vrees dat ik nog niet helemaal mee ben. Dat is de eerste keer dat ik dit meemaak en ik heb al veel Dropspatronen gebreid. Je zegt gewoon verder doen maar als A1 (21 steken)opnieuw gebreid wordt komt dit niet echt uit met de afgewerkte A1 (51 steken).Kan je mij helpen aub? Vriendelijke groeten Chris

DROPS Design 06.10.2019 kl. 16:37:

Dag Chris,

Na 1 herhaling van A.1 in de hoogte is A.1 51 steken breed, daarna brei je verder met patroon A.1, dus wordt hij natuurlijk breder dan 51 steken. (De ster naast telpatroon A.1 laat een herhaling van A.1 in de hoogte zien). Op hoeveel steken je uiteindelijk uitkomt hangt af van je maat en wanneer je op de juiste hoogte van de pas zit zit qua cm.

Chris Hannes 26.09.2019 - 21:16:

Ik heb de pas gebreid tot 1keer patroon A1(238 steken) , dan lukt het niet verder nl vanaf ga zo verder met de patroonherhaling in A1. Brei ik dan 2x A1 op de eerste gebreide want het stekenaantal voor rug-en voorpand blijven hetzelfde denk ik. Groetjes Chris

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 18:43:

Dag Chris,

Je gaat gewoon verder zoals je daarvoor bezig was en patroon A.1 wordt steeds breder. De meerderingen op het lijf gaan ook verder. Pas als je 24-27-29-32-34-38 keer aan beide kanten van A.t hebt gemeerderd ga je verder met tricotsteek zonder te meerderen zoals beschreven in het patroon.

Belinda Nel 25.09.2019 - 11:09:

The 1st row of the yoke after cast on (i.e. the 1st row of the 1st of 2 ridges), is this on the right side or wrong side of the work? (This will determine the cast on I use.) Also, the garter stitch ridge as explained is knit 1 row, purl 1 row, but shouldn't it be knit both rows? (I know garter stitch to be 2 knit rows, and stocking stitch to be 1 row knit, 1 row purl.)

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 11:27:

Dear Mrs Nel, the yoke is worked in the round, ie you will work all rounds from the right side; to work garter stitch in the round, you work alternately 1 round knit, 1 round purl - see video below. Happy knitting!

Sissel 23.09.2019 - 08:45:

Hei Er disse strikke pakkene stor på størrelsene. Hvilke størrelser passer for meg som bruker mellom L eller XL.

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 14:50:

Hei Sissel. Ta en titt på målskissen til denne genseren nederst på siden og sjekk målene i forhold til dine mål. God Fornøyelse!

Carine 20.09.2019 - 14:28:

Bonjour j’ai commencé le modèle hier et depuis je n’arrête pas de faire et de défaire, j’ai un sérieux problème avec le premier rang du diagramme A1. Faut il commencer avec 2 jetés? J’ai tout essayé sur 21 mailles et je ni arrrive pas. Est il’possible d’avoir l.explication écrite du premier rang de A1 svp. Merci d’avance

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 07:50:

Bonjour Carine, au 1er rang de A.1, vous commencez par 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m end, 1 dim, 1 m env, 1 dim, 2 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m end, 1 dim, 1 m env, 1 dim, 2 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté = 6 jetés, 4 diminutions = vous augmentez 2 m et vous avez 23 m. Bon tricot!

Monica 09.09.2019 - 19:54:

Salve posso farlo con il Puna?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 20:56:

Buonasera Monica, a questo link può trovare il nostro convertitore di filati per verificare la quantità di filato sostitutivo necessaria, comunque questo modello può essere realizzato con Puna. Buon lavoro!

Marjatta Järvikivi 09.09.2019 - 11:31:

Miksi niin monet ohjeet neulotaan ylhäältä alas. Olen tehnyt, mutta istuvuus ylhäällä kaulan ympärillä huono. Kaarroke ei toimi minulla..Korjaaminen melko mahdotonta. Odotan kovasti uusia ohjeita neulottuna alhaalta ylös.

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