DROPS / 196 / 33

Granny Glam by DROPS Design

Crocheted kimono in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with double crochet groups and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

  • Granny Glam / DROPS 196-33 - Crocheted kimono in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with double crochet groups and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Granny Glam / DROPS 196-33 - Crocheted kimono in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with double crochet groups and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Granny Glam / DROPS 196-33 - Crocheted kimono in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with double crochet groups and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern db-096
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 132-144-162 cm = 52”-55 3/4”-62 3/4”
Full length: 72-78-84 cm = 28 3/8”-30 3/4”-33”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-800-900 g color 11, berry muffin

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
4 repetitions of A.4b in width and 8 rows of A.4b vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm = US I/9
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 7.80 $ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 7.80 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 101.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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KIMONO - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in parts. First work right front and back piece in the round as a hexagon. Then work shoulder and sleeve seam together before continuing back and forth towards mid back. Then work left front and back piece the same way before continuing back and forth down the body. Then work the shawl collar and bands.

KIMONO:
RIGHT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Begin with hook size 5.5 mm = US I/9 and Big Delight and work pattern according to diagram A.1. When entire A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: A.2 (shows how round begins and ends and replaces first double crochet on round), A.3 6 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue in the round like this until A.2 and A.3 are done. Then repeat the last 2 rounds in A.2 and A.3 until piece measures 28 cm = 11” from the centre and outwards (i.e. every time the 2 last rounds have been worked, there is room for 2 double crochet groups more between each of the 6 corners on hexagon) – adjust to finish after a round with 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch. Cut the yarn.
The hexagon now forms first part of right sleeve, shoulder and front and back piece: Centre of A.1 = mid under sleeve. Fold right front and back piece so that right side is against right side and all corners meet another corner - chart: The dotted lines shows where increase on hexagon is and hexagon is folded under sleeves and in side seam.
Now work shoulder and sleeve seam together through both layers from wrong side as follows: Begin at the bottom of sleeve and work 1 single crochet around chain space in corner, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* up to shoulder, but finish with 1 single crochet in chain space in corner. Fasten off.
Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
Now work back and forth on back piece as follows:
Begin in corner at the bottom of body on back piece, work pattern back and forth towards mid back from wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, A.4b up to next corner before crochet together mid on top of shoulder, work A.4e around chain space in the corner. Turn and work back and forth until diagrams have been worked vertically (= 4 rows).

SIZE L/XL AND XXL/XXXL:
Begin in corner at the bottom of body on back piece and work pattern back and forth over the shoulder and down towards the corner on front piece from wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, A.4b up to crochet together mid on top of shoulder, work A.4c over crochet together on shoulder and continue with A.4b as before down to next corner, work A.4e around chain space in corner. Turn and work back 2nd row in A.4 (= a total of 2 rows from hexagon edge). Size L/XL is now done. In size XXL/XXXL work 2 rows vertically (= a total of 4 rows from hexagon edge). Do not cut the yarn.
Now work back and forth on back piece as follows:
Turn and work A.4a, A.4b up to chain stitch in A.4c on shoulder, work A.4d around chain stitch, turn and work back and forth until 4-6 rows has been worked vertically on the back piece (= a total of 6-10 row from the hexagon edge). Cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Work the same way as right front and back piece. Work together shoulder and sleeve seam - see black star on chart! NOTE: When working back and forth, make sure that row with double crochets is worked from right side and row with chain spaces is worked from wrong side! I.e. when working back and forth begin at the bottom of body on front piece instead of back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Work back pieces together mid back as follows:
Place the 2 part with right side against right side and work through both layers from wrong side as follows: Work 1 single crochet at the bottom of corner, * work 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, work from *-* up to the neck on kimono, and finish with 1 single crochet in last stitch on row. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work an edge at the bottom of kimono as follows:
Begin at the bottom in the corner on right front piece and work from wrong side as follows:
Work A.4a, A.4b until next corner (= on back piece), continue with 6-8-10 repetitions of A.4b over parts worked back and forth towards mid back, then work A.4b until corner at the front on left front piece, finish with A.4e. Continue back and forth like this until entire piece measures approx. 16-22-28 cm = 6 1/4”-8 3/4”-11”. Fasten off.

BAND AND SHAWL COLLAR:
Begin at the bottom in the corner towards mid front on left front piece and work from wrong side as follows:
Work A.4a in the corner, work A.4b up along edge at the bottom of kimono and skip approx. 2½ cm = 1” for every repetition (= approx. 6-9-11 repetitions), continue with A.4b up to shoulder, work A.5 7-7-9 times in total along edge at the neck and continue with A.4b down along edge on right front piece the same way, finish with A.4d at the bottom on right front piece. Work back and forth like this until entire A.5 has been worked vertically. When A.4a, A.4b and A.4d have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows in diagrams. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.12.2018
Correction yarn amount: 700-800-900 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch made Black dot is beginning of round
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = at beginning of round replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round and work 1 slip stitch in every stitch until first chain space on round.
symbols = begin on this round/row, previous round/row has already been worked
symbols = at beginning of row work 3 chain stitches
symbols = crochet together of shoulder and sleeve seam on right front and back piece - read explanation in pattern
symbols = crochet together of shoulder and sleeve seam on left front and back piece - read explanation in pattern
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Katerina 15.09.2021 - 23:05:

It’s not possible to fold according to the diagram. The shape is different. There is not enough material in the hexagon . There is a mistake in the pattern.

user icon DROPS Design 16.09.2021 kl. 07:40:

Dear Katerina, look at the 3rd picture on the top of the pattern, you will see 3 of the corners from the hexagon (= the dotted lines in the chart), this might help you to fold piece. For any individual assistance, bring your piece to your store or send them a picture per mail, they will be able to help you better. You can also try to ask other crocheters in our DROPS Worskhop. Happy crocheting!

country flag Kimberly 04.04.2021 - 15:26:

I asked for row by row written instructions and was given a guide to the illustrated pattern, which as an older crocheter, makes no sense to me. Are there written instructions, for example, " ch 2 at beg of row and make 2dc in each stitch across to end of row" I am afraid to purchase the yarn from you and not be able to make the sweater.

user icon DROPS Design 04.04.2021 kl. 21:19:

Dear Kimberly, there is no written out pattern, only the diagrams (for the pattern itself). Not only because the patterns are available in a number of languages, but also because we believe that with the diagrams you not only see the very next step, but also the "bigger picture" as how stitches and rows relate to each other en large. We do have a lesson on how to read crochet diagrams here, and if you are still stuck, you can always ask for help (either in person or over the phone) in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

country flag Kimberly 30.03.2021 - 20:55:

Is an old fashioned written version of this pattern available in U.S. English? I find diagrams very difficult. If so can you please post a link. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2021 kl. 22:44:

Hi Kimberly, yes, please check HERE. Happy crocheting!

country flag Jane 23.12.2020 - 12:34:

Hoi, Ik kom er niet aan uit hoe het rechter voor en achterpand wordt gemaakt. A2 en A3 worden in de rondte gehaakt om een 6hoek te maken maar A2 vervangt een stokje met losse. Dan haak je de toer toch helemaal niet vast? Er staat geen halve vaste oid.

country flag Ich 01.03.2020 - 17:48:

Die Anleitung ist verwirrend. Aber das Resultat ist toll. Habe allerdings oft nach dem Bild gearbeitet

country flag Ivonne Flores 25.12.2019 - 20:08:

Quisiera las instrucciones en español Mexico. Gracias

country flag Robinne 19.09.2019 - 08:19:

Je ne comprends pas :(

user icon DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 09:57:

Bonjour Robinne, pouvez-vous être plus précise? Que ne comprenez-vous pas? Quelle partie du modèle, quelle taille faites-vous? Rappelez-vous également que pour toute assistance individuelle à la réalisation d'un modèle, vous pouvez contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

country flag Janine 20.06.2019 - 05:17:

You have written on the diagram a- 1 around chain stitch - Is this a table or dc? The symbol is a treble symbol but instructions talk og double crochet. Help?

user icon DROPS Design 20.06.2019 kl. 09:00:

Dear Janine, the 5th symbol under diagram key is a treble crochet (UK-English) / a double crochet (US- English) worked around the chain ring in A.1. Make sure you are reading the correct language, you can edit the language by scroling down the menu under picture. Happy crocheting!

country flag Maureen 12.06.2019 - 01:02:

For those of us who don't understand the diagrams, how about doing it old-fashioned way and printing instructions. I was going t o make this sweater until I saw there were no written instructions

user icon DROPS Design 12.06.2019 kl. 07:41:

Dear Maureen, you will find here how to read diagrams - remember to follow the written pattern at the same time. Happy crocheting!

country flag Kristine 07.06.2019 - 11:41:

KORTE SAMENVATTING VAN HET WERK: in de rondte als een achthoek achthoek moet ZESHOEK zijn zie versie English : in the round as a hexagon

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