DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
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Granny Glam

Crocheted kimono in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with double crochet groups and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 196-33
DROPS design: Pattern db-096
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 132-144-162 cm = 52”-55 3/4”-62 3/4”
Full length: 72-78-84 cm = 28 3/8”-30 3/4”-33”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-800-900 g color 11, berry muffin

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
4 repetitions of A.4b in width and 8 rows of A.4b vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm = US I/9
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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KIMONO - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in parts. First work right front and back piece in the round as a hexagon. Then work shoulder and sleeve seam together before continuing back and forth towards mid back. Then work left front and back piece the same way before continuing back and forth down the body. Then work the shawl collar and bands.

KIMONO:
RIGHT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Begin with hook size 5.5 mm = US I/9 and Big Delight and work pattern according to diagram A.1. When entire A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: A.2 (shows how round begins and ends and replaces first double crochet on round), A.3 6 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue in the round like this until A.2 and A.3 are done. Then repeat the last 2 rounds in A.2 and A.3 until piece measures 28 cm = 11” from the centre and outwards (i.e. every time the 2 last rounds have been worked, there is room for 2 double crochet groups more between each of the 6 corners on hexagon) – adjust to finish after a round with 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch. Cut the yarn.
The hexagon now forms first part of right sleeve, shoulder and front and back piece: Centre of A.1 = mid under sleeve. Fold right front and back piece so that right side is against right side and all corners meet another corner - chart: The dotted lines shows where increase on hexagon is and hexagon is folded under sleeves and in side seam.
Now work shoulder and sleeve seam together through both layers from wrong side as follows: Begin at the bottom of sleeve and work 1 single crochet around chain space in corner, * 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* up to shoulder, but finish with 1 single crochet in chain space in corner. Fasten off.
Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
Now work back and forth on back piece as follows:
Begin in corner at the bottom of body on back piece, work pattern back and forth towards mid back from wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, A.4b up to next corner before crochet together mid on top of shoulder, work A.4e around chain space in the corner. Turn and work back and forth until diagrams have been worked vertically (= 4 rows).

SIZE L/XL AND XXL/XXXL:
Begin in corner at the bottom of body on back piece and work pattern back and forth over the shoulder and down towards the corner on front piece from wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, A.4b up to crochet together mid on top of shoulder, work A.4c over crochet together on shoulder and continue with A.4b as before down to next corner, work A.4e around chain space in corner. Turn and work back 2nd row in A.4 (= a total of 2 rows from hexagon edge). Size L/XL is now done. In size XXL/XXXL work 2 rows vertically (= a total of 4 rows from hexagon edge). Do not cut the yarn.
Now work back and forth on back piece as follows:
Turn and work A.4a, A.4b up to chain stitch in A.4c on shoulder, work A.4d around chain stitch, turn and work back and forth until 4-6 rows has been worked vertically on the back piece (= a total of 6-10 row from the hexagon edge). Cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Work the same way as right front and back piece. Work together shoulder and sleeve seam - see black star on chart! NOTE: When working back and forth, make sure that row with double crochets is worked from right side and row with chain spaces is worked from wrong side! I.e. when working back and forth begin at the bottom of body on front piece instead of back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Work back pieces together mid back as follows:
Place the 2 part with right side against right side and work through both layers from wrong side as follows: Work 1 single crochet at the bottom of corner, * work 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, work from *-* up to the neck on kimono, and finish with 1 single crochet in last stitch on row. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work an edge at the bottom of kimono as follows:
Begin at the bottom in the corner on right front piece and work from wrong side as follows:
Work A.4a, A.4b until next corner (= on back piece), continue with 6-8-10 repetitions of A.4b over parts worked back and forth towards mid back, then work A.4b until corner at the front on left front piece, finish with A.4e. Continue back and forth like this until entire piece measures approx. 16-22-28 cm = 6 1/4”-8 3/4”-11”. Fasten off.

BAND AND SHAWL COLLAR:
Begin at the bottom in the corner towards mid front on left front piece and work from wrong side as follows:
Work A.4a in the corner, work A.4b up along edge at the bottom of kimono and skip approx. 2½ cm = 1” for every repetition (= approx. 6-9-11 repetitions), continue with A.4b up to shoulder, work A.5 7-7-9 times in total along edge at the neck and continue with A.4b down along edge on right front piece the same way, finish with A.4d at the bottom on right front piece. Work back and forth like this until entire A.5 has been worked vertically. When A.4a, A.4b and A.4d have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows in diagrams. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.12.2018
Correction yarn amount: 700-800-900 g

Diagram

symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch made Black dot is beginning of round
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = at beginning of round replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round and work 1 slip stitch in every stitch until first chain space on round.
symbols = begin on this round/row, previous round/row has already been worked
symbols = at beginning of row work 3 chain stitches
symbols = crochet together of shoulder and sleeve seam on right front and back piece - read explanation in pattern
symbols = crochet together of shoulder and sleeve seam on left front and back piece - read explanation in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Gail wrote:

What are the measurements guides on the hexagon graph please. Inches or ?

15.02.2024 - 06:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gail, all measurements are taken flat from side to side and are in cm; read more about the charts here. Happy crocheting!

15.02.2024 - 07:48

country flag Christine Simon wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich ein sechseck Ecke auf Ecke lege erhalte ich nie einen rechten Winkel! Wie machen sie das? Bitte um antwort. Mfg Frau Simon

14.01.2024 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Simon, schauen Sie die Maßskizze, die gestrichten Lininen zeigen 3 von den 6 "Ecken" vom Sechseck Quadrat. Falten Sie so daß die Arbeit genauso wie bei der Maßskizze aussieht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.01.2024 - 08:22

country flag VICHIDVONGSA BUSARAKAM wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis assez débutante pour crocheter les vêtements alors j'essaie de faire celui là sauf que je ne sais pas COMBIEN DE RANG que je devrais faire par taille !?! Merci pour votre aide...

08.11.2023 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Busakaram, tout dépend de la taille et de votre tension en hauteur, suivez les indications en mesurant bien comme indiqué, ainsi, vous aurez les bonnes mesures finales, comme celles du schéma. Bon crochet!

09.11.2023 - 08:14

country flag Karina wrote:

Hier ben ik weer. Klopt het dat u geen symmetrische zeshoek bedoeld maar een L-vorm? Die heeft ook zes hoeken. Als ik de foto bekijk, staat de middenachternaad haaks op de onderkant. Dat kan niet als je van een zeshoek uitgaat. Als dit niet klopt, mag u het me nog eens duidelijk uiteggen!

09.10.2023 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karina,

Je begint als het ware in de oksel te haken. Als het rechter voor- en achterpand klaar is en je vouwt het dubbel, dan heb je een L-vorm.

11.10.2023 - 19:07

country flag Karina wrote:

Het patroon is lastig te begrijpen. Ik ben met een proeflap begonnen om de zeshoek te haken, en meen nu te begrijpen dat de zeshoek niet gesloten is, maar dat de schuine lijn van A2 betekent dat je heen en weer moet haken? Dan zou het omvouwen logisch zijn. Graag jullie reactie.

09.10.2023 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karina,

Nee, je moet wel in de rondte haken. Zie ook mijn andere bericht waarin ik uitleg dat het midden van de cirkel op het punt van de oksel komt.

11.10.2023 - 19:09

country flag Carmen wrote:

La chaqueta se ve fácil pero las explicaciones son complicadísimas. La he tenido que hacer por las fotos

03.12.2022 - 19:08

country flag Viollette wrote:

Par quelle laine peut on remplacer la big delight coloris 11 (la big delight semble ne lus se faire)

15.04.2022 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Violette, pour conserver un dégradé, vous pouvez utiliser soit Delight soit Fabel + un autre fil du groupe A au choix pour obtenir la même épaisseur qu'un fil du groupe C comme Big Delight - pour le choix des couleurs, n'hésitez pas à vous rapprocher de votre magasin DROPS, ils pourront ainsi vous proposer les coloris adéquats en fonction des nuances souhaitées. Bon crochet!

19.04.2022 - 09:07

country flag Ercilia Kazuko I wrote:

Se voces colocar metragem eu entendo melhor obrigada sempre

19.01.2022 - 16:22

country flag Ambra Gregorio wrote:

Modello bellissimo. Unica cosa prima di cominciare il lavoro: il bordo del collo a scialle, in basso sul davanti, sia a destra che a sinistra, cade giù oltre il bordo della giacca. Come posso sapere quanti maglie alte in meno devo fare per non ottenere questo brutto effetto?

29.11.2021 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Ambra, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

08.12.2021 - 19:14

country flag Tig wrote:

I have made the two hexagonal pieces but I am completely stuck with what to do next (for the smallest size). I have read and re read the instructions over and over! I tried turning the sleeve the right way and working the first vertical row of chains (A4a and A4b) from the bottom back to the shoulder but then I can’t work out how to work A4e at the shoulder before turning it or what to do next??

24.10.2021 - 11:44