DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale

Jennifer

Crochet DROPS jacket in ”Nepal”, ”Big Fabel” and ”Alpaca Bouclé”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 143-38
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-092
Yarn group C + C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 0618, camel
150-150-200-200-200-200 g color no 2923, goldenrod
150-150-200-200-200-200 g color no 2920, orange
And use:
DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
300-300-300-400-400-400 g color no 912, soft chocolate
And use:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 2020, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc in width x 5½ rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES: Work stripes as follows: * 1 round orange Nepal, 1 round Big Fabel, 1 round goldenrod Nepal, 1 round Alpaca Bouclé, 1 round Big Fabel, 1 round camel Nepal *, repeat from *-* until garment is finished.

CROCHET INFO (applies to sleeve):
Replace first dc on every row with ch 3.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Dec at beg of row by working sl sts over the no of dc to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of dc to be dec remains, turn piece.
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BODY:
Work in the round from mid back. Ch 8 with orange Nepal on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work with orange Nepal. Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-ring, * ch 4, 3 dc in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: READ STRIPES. ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, skip 2 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Repeat 5th and 6th round, with inc, there are 2 dc-groups more between every corner every other round.

ARMHOLE:
When square measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18", work as follows – adjust so that this is a round worked as 5th round: Work as before until first corner, work 2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc in the corner. Then ch until the middle of next side – ch 1 over every dc/ch until the middle dc, work 1 dc in the middle dc and work until the third corner as before, work until the middle of next side, then ch 1 over every dc/ch until the fourth corner, work 2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc in the corner and work until beg of round as before. On next round work as before, in ch-spaces for armholes work 1 dc in every ch.

Continue as before until square measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm x 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' x 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' (i.e. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' in all sizes from armhole), adjust so that last row is worked as 5th round. Cut the thread, now work back and forth between first and second corner. Work from the first corner as follows: 2 dc in ch-space in the corner, 1 dc in every dc/ch until second corner, 2 dc in ch-space in the corner. Turn and work back, continue pattern as on 5th and 6th round. Continue like this until 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' have been worked back and forth (without inc), cut the thread.
Repeat on the other side, now work back and forth from third to fourth corner. Finally work a round with camel around the entire square, work 1 dc in every dc, in ch-space in every corner work 4 dc.

SLEEVE:
The entire sleeve is worked back and forth with camel. Read crochet info!
Ch 44-44-46-46-49-49 loosely (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal.
ROW 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 5-5-0-0-3-3 ch remain, skip 1 ch and work 1 dc in each of the last 4-4-0-0-2-2 ch = 36-36-38-38-40-40 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', inc 1 dc in each side, repeat inc every 6-5-5-4-4-3½ cm / 2 3/8"-2"-2"-1½"-1½"-1 1/4" 6-8-8-9-10-11 more times = 50-54-56-58-62-64 dc. Work until piece measures 49 cm / 19 1/4'' (same in all sizes because of wider shoulders on body in the larger sizes). Now dec at beg and end of every row for sleeve cap – SEE DECREASE TIP: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 3 dc 1 time = 30-34-36-38-42-44 dc remain. Cut and fasten the thread, sleeve measures approx. 56 cm / 22'' in all sizes. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams. Sew in sleeves.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.11.2012
BODY: ...ROUND 4: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-space, ch 4, 2 dc in same ch-space, ...
Updated online: 06.05.2013
Second section under ARMHOLE: .....Continue as before until square measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm x 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' x 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' (i.e. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' in all sizes from armhole), adjust so that last row is worked as 5th round. Cut the thread, now work back and forth between first and second corner. Work from the first corner as follows: 2 dc in ch-space in the corner, 1 dc in every dc/ch until second corner, 2 dc in ch-space in the corner.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Marika wrote:

Vorrei provare a realizzare questo cardigan con il filato brushed alpaca silk. Non so se è una buona idea! Per calcolare quanto filato devo acquistare, sommo i 3 tipi di filato nella descrizione e poi uso il convertitore?

26.07.2021 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marika, può usare 3 capi di Brushed Alpaca Silk. Per calcolare la quantità deve trovare il metraggio totale utilizzato con i filati indicati nel modello per la sua taglia, poi calcolare il numero di gomitoli di Brushed Alpaca silk necessari. Buon lavoro!

29.07.2021 - 09:56

country flag Fabiana Luchete wrote:

Não tem gráfico da parte das costas???

12.02.2021 - 20:12

country flag Barb Alber wrote:

Is it possible to crochet this without the sleeves?

17.04.2018 - 01:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Albert, it's probably possible, you may like then to just crochet a small finishing edge around both armholes. Happy crocheting!

17.04.2018 - 09:19

Gen Hart wrote:

Hello, I’m working on my first sleeve and not sure if I’m on the right track... This section here... “repeat inc every 6-5-5-4-4-3½ cm / 2 3/8"-2"-2"-1½"-1½"-1 1/4" 6-8-8-9-10-11 more times = 50-54-56-58-62-64 dc.” I’m making the second size so in need to increase every 5cm. My question is, do I crochet 5cm then increase the next row or increase on the row which makes 5cm? I hope I’m making sense! Thank you!

16.03.2018 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gen, I would crochet 5 cm and increase in the next row. The next time start measuring from the row in which the increase was done. I hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

17.03.2018 - 12:15

country flag Karen wrote:

Jullie hebben ooit gezegd dat het haken tussen eerste en tweede hoek moest zijn in plaats van haken tussen tweede en derde hoek. Maar er is volgens mij nog iets blijven hangen van deze zin in het patroon : ==> Knip de draad af, haak nu heen en weer tussen de eerste en tweede hoek. Haak vanaf de eerste hoek als volgt: 2 stk in de l-lus in de hoek, 1 stk in elk stk/l tot de derde hoek Het voorlaatste woord moet tweede hoek zijn ipv derde hoek. Klopt ?

29.04.2016 - 15:00

Adriana wrote:

I understand the sizes are S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL. But with knowing that, what size in inches would each size be?

25.04.2016 - 07:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Adriana, scrolling down the page, you can find a measurement chart, compare it with a similar garment you have, and you'll find the right size. Happy crocheting!

25.04.2016 - 10:32

Ximena Gomez wrote:

Buenas tardes, estoy feliz por haberlos encontrado, estoy en el proceso del segundo proyecto y estoy encantada, pero ya tengo una pregunta: no me es muy clara la forma de hacer la manga, no entiendo esto de "hasta que resten 5-5-0-0-3-3 cadenetas...", me podrian ayudar con esto? Muchas gracias.

09.04.2016 - 03:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ximena. Aquí quiere decir: " hasta que queden por trabajar 5-5-0-0-3-3 cadenetas en la fila". Cada número corresponde a una talla (S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL). Para que el trabajo sea más fácil marca los números que corresponden a la talla elegida antes de empezar la labor.

10.04.2016 - 21:04

country flag Hannelore wrote:

Und gibt es vielleicht ein Foto von diesem Abschnitt?

24.04.2015 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Leider nein. In der Maßskizze ist der senkrechte Strich die Stelle, an der Sie statt des Musters die Lm häkeln (= Armausschnitt) und danach mit dem Muster wie zuvor weiterhäkeln.

03.05.2015 - 12:55

country flag Hannelore wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich die Lm Kette mit den Stb gehäkelt habe dann zählen diese doch zum Quadrat dazu,hab ich das richtig verstanden?Wenn ja wird dann das was für den Halsrand gedacht ist nicht zu lang?

24.04.2015 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Mit der Lm-Kette überspringen Sie Maschen, die Lm kommen also nicht zusätzlich zum Quadrat hinzu, sondern sind die Methode, um einen "Schlitz" in das Quadrat für den jeweiligen Armausschnitt zu bekommen. Sie überspringen so viele M, wie Sie Lm häkeln, und häkeln dann wieder wie gehabt weiter.

03.05.2015 - 12:53

country flag Marion wrote:

Was bedeutet "schulternaht schliessen" - es wird doch außer den ärmeln alles im ganzen gehäkelt?

10.02.2015 - 22:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, das ist einfach nur ein Übersetzungsfehler gewesen, er wird gleich korrigiert. Es sind die Ärmelnähte gemeint. Vielen Dank für Ihren Hinweis und viel Spaß beim Tragen der Jacke!

12.02.2015 - 10:08