DROPS / 194 / 36

Blue Helix by DROPS Design

Circle crocheted jacket in 1 strand DROPS Nord + 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is worked with lace pattern. Size: S – XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-833
Yarn group A + A or C
----------------------------------------------------------

Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 228-252-292 cm = 90”-99”-113”
Full length: 104-115-126 cm = 41”-45 1/4”-49 1/2”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-550 g color 16, jeans blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-175-200 g color 27, jeans blue

----------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.60 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 3.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first single crochet at beginning of round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first double crochet at beginning of round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first treble crochet at beginning of round with 4 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (transition to next round):
Work slip stitches to first stitch on next round. If there is a chain space on last round work chain stitches until middle of first chain space on round. NOTE: Applies from the end of 3rd round in A.1 and until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 chain space as follows: Work * 1 single crochet + 1 chain space *, work from *-* 2 times in total around same chain space.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
NOTE: Pattern displaces the beginning of round, therefore adjust so that the 2 decreases are done mid under sleeve.
Decrease 1 chain space as follows: Work 1 single crochet around chain space, 1 single crochet around next chain space, 6 chain stitches.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in the round in a circle from mid back of back and outwards. Work armholes on the circle. Work front pieces back and forth and then work a finishing edge around the entire circle. Work sleeves in the round, top down.

CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm = US H/8 with 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 7 times in total on round - read CROCHET INFO-1 and CROCHET INFO-2. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 49 chain spaces on last round. The circle measures approx. 34 cm = 13 3/8” in diameter.
Cut the yarn, and begin next round in 4th chain space = mid back/neck. Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the next 19 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the last 7 chain spaces.
Repeat 2nd round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase - read INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/single crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the next 19 chain spaces - increase 7 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/single crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the last 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces (= 15 increases in total on round) = 64 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.3 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm = 17 3/4” in diameter.

SIZE L/XL - XXL/XXXL:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase 15 chain spaces evenly (i.e. increase 1 chain space over approx. every 3rd chain space) - read INCREASE TIP = 64 chain spaces.
Work second round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 8 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the next 30 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the last 8 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.3 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm = 17 3/4” in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 64 chain spaces for all sizes
Then work diagram A.3 in the round, work A.3 5-6-7 times in total vertically - AT THE SAME TIME increase on round marked with arrow in diagram - remember INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Increase 16 chain spaces on every round with increase, i.e.
1ST TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 4th chain space = 80 chain spaces.
2ND TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 5th chain space = 96 chain spaces.
3RD TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 6th chain space = 112 chain spaces.
4TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 7th chain space = 128 chain spaces.
5TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 8th chain space = 144 chain spaces.
Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 100 cm = 39 3/8” in diameter.

SIZE L/XL:
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 111 cm = 43 3/4” in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
7TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 10th chain space = 176 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 122 cm = 48” in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 144-160-176 chain spaces.
Continue working only over 40-44-47 chain spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 32-36-40 chain spaces at the top by neck and 32-36-42 chain spaces at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-44-47 chain spaces. Continue back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Work slip stitches until middle of the first chain space, 1 single crochet, * work 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 single crochet around last chain space = 39-43-46 chain spaces.
Repeat 1st row 3-3-7 more times. There are 36-40-39 chain spaces at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 40-44-47 chain spaces in the right side. Fasten off.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire circle as follows: Work last round in A.3, i.e. over every chain space work 1 single crochet and 3 chain stitches. Then work 1st round in A.3, i.e. work 3 treble crochet around every chain space. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 104-115-126 cm = 41”-45 1/4”-49 1/2” in diameter vertically and approx. 114-126-146 cm = 45”-49 1/2”-57 3/8” in diameter in width.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round from armhole.
Begin mid under sleeve and work 57-63-66 treble crochets evenly around armhole (= approx. 3 treble crochets around every chain space) = 1st round in A.3. Continue in the round on A.3 to and with last round. Then repeat A.3 vertically - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 chain spaces mid under sleeve, decrease on round marked with arrow in diagram - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every round marked with arrow 4-5-5 times in total = 11-11-12 chain spaces. Continue without decrease until sleeve measures approx. 42-44-46 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18” - adjust to finish after a round with treble crochets. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
= 1 chain stitch
= 4 chain stitches
= 5 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= this round has already been worked, begin on next round (= 1st round)!
= single crochet around chain space
= single crochet in stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain space
= treble crochet around chain space
= increase round



1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

24) Do you need help with this pattern?

We have 8 tutorial videos to help you with this pattern. See them here

For further pattern help, please contact the DROPS store where you bought the yarn, where you are guaranteed to receive qualified help from a store specializing in the DROPS patterns.

All patterns are carefully reviewed, but we must make reservation for possible mistakes. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern for measurements and calculations.

Go to original pattern for design DROPS 194-36.