DROPS design: Pattern z-833
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-550 g colour 16, jeans blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-175-200 g colour 27, jeans blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 1.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first double crochet at beginning of round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first treble crochet at beginning of round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first double treble crochet at beginning of round with 4 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (transition to next round):
Work slip stitches to first stitch on next round. If there is a chain space on last round work chain stitches until middle of first chain space on round. NOTE: Applies from the end of 3rd round in A.1 and until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 chain space as follows: Work * 1 double crochet + 1 chain space *, work from *-* 2 times in total around same chain space.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
NOTE: Pattern displaces the beginning of round, therefore adjust so that the 2 decreases are done mid under sleeve.
Decrease 1 chain space as follows: Work 1 double crochet around chain space, 1 double crochet around next chain space, 6 chain stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in the round in a circle from mid back of back and outwards. Work armholes on the circle. Work front pieces back and forth and then work a finishing edge around the entire circle. Work sleeves in the round, top down.

CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm with 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 7 times in total on round - read CROCHET INFO-1 and CROCHET INFO-2. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 49 chain spaces on last round. The circle measures approx. 34 cm in diameter.
Cut the yarn, and begin next round in 4th chain space = mid back/neck. Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the next 19 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the last 7 chain spaces.
Repeat 2nd round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase - read INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/double crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the next 19 chain spaces - increase 7 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/double crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the last 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces (= 15 increases in total on round) = 64 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm in diameter.

SIZE L/XL - XXL/XXXL:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase 15 chain spaces evenly (i.e. increase 1 chain space over approx. every 3rd chain space) - read INCREASE TIP = 64 chain spaces.
Work second round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 8 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the next 30 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the last 8 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 64 chain spaces for all sizes
Then work diagram A.3 in the round, work A.3 5-6-7 times in total vertically - AT THE SAME TIME increase on round marked with arrow in diagram - remember INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Increase 16 chain spaces on every round with increase, i.e.
1ST TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 4th chain space = 80 chain spaces.
2ND TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 5th chain space = 96 chain spaces.
3RD TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 6th chain space = 112 chain spaces.
4TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 7th chain space = 128 chain spaces.
5TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 8th chain space = 144 chain spaces.
Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 100 cm in diameter.

SIZE L/XL:
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 111 cm in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
7TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 10th chain space = 176 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 122 cm in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 144-160-176 chain spaces.
Continue working only over 40-44-47 chain spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 32-36-40 chain spaces at the top by neck and 32-36-42 chain spaces at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-44-47 chain spaces. Continue back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Work slip stitches until middle of the first chain space, 1 double crochet, * work 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 double crochet around last chain space = 39-43-46 chain spaces.
Repeat 1st row 3-3-7 more times. There are 36-40-39 chain spaces at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 40-44-47 chain spaces in the right side. Fasten off. 

FINISHING EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire circle as follows: Work last round in A.3, i.e. over every chain space work 1 double crochet and 3 chain stitches. Then work 1st round in A.3, i.e. work 3 double treble crochet around every chain space. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 104-115-126 cm in diameter vertically and approx. 114-126-146 cm in diameter in width.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round from armhole.
Begin mid under sleeve and work 57-63-66 double treble crochets evenly around armhole (= approx. 3 double treble crochets around every chain space) = 1st round in A.3. Continue in the round on A.3 to and with last round. Then repeat A.3 vertically - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 chain spaces mid under sleeve, decrease on round marked with arrow in diagram - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every round marked with arrow 4-5-5 times in total = 11-11-12 chain spaces. Continue without decrease until sleeve measures approx. 42-44-46 cm - adjust to finish after a round with double treble crochets. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.06.2021
Under SIZE S-M:
... Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm in diameter.

under SIZE L/XL - XXL/XXXL:
... Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm in diameter.

Diagram

symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round (= 1st round)!
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain space
symbols = double treble crochet around chain space
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

country flag Helen Granlund wrote:

Bought nord and kid silk, but the colours dont work together, can the pattern be made using only 1 strand nord?

04.11.2021 - 17:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Granlund, you can work it with 2 strands Nord instead - you would just need more yarn (use the yarn converter to calculate); you will find some other circle jackets that can be worked with 1 strand Nord here - or contact your DROPS store for any further assistance. Happy crocheting!

05.11.2021 kl. 07:03:

country flag Jackie Casey wrote:

Is this pattern written out I have difficulty reading a diagram?

18.10.2021 - 14:44:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Casey, we only have diagram to this pattern, but this lesson explains how to read a crochet diagram and should be able to help you. Happy crocheting!

18.10.2021 kl. 16:25:

country flag Custodio wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis entrain d'étudier le tutoriel je ne comprend pas comment je doit travailler le devant gauche et le devant droit? A quel endroit exactement je doit le faire?

04.10.2021 - 04:55:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Custodio, lorsque votre cercle est terminé, posez le en double, de sorte que les emmanchures soient bien l'une en face de l'autre; comptez les 32-36-40 arceaux du haut et placez un marqueur de chaque côté ; comptez les 32-36-42 arceaux du bas et mettez un marqueur de chaque côté = vous avez délimité les 40-44-47 arceaux de chaque côté où vous allez crocheter le devant gauche/le devant droit - cf schéma. Bon crochet!

04.10.2021 kl. 08:57:

country flag Shannon Afams wrote:

I am totally stuck on the last row on chart A.1 Is there an error at the of 1st and last repeat. It seems to b dbl, chain, 2 dbl with chain, repeat. But the diagram is showing 1 dbl in last chain, chain, which is putting 2 single dbls in between?! Hope u understood that ! Lol

17.09.2021 - 23:04:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shannon, there is no mistake in the pattern and yes, you work 2 singles. You work double in order to increase and they are worked evenly but you need to work 2 singles in order to maintain the pattern.

19.09.2021 kl. 22:56:

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Hvordan skal kædemasker ændre på at der mangler noget i A2 på de store størrelser,for at få mønsteret til at passe? Det er overgangen mellem 2 og 3 række i A2, der ikke passer i str L-XXL

28.08.2021 - 17:12:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kirsten. Hva er det du mener som mangler? 2. og 3. omgang av A.2 består av fastmasker og 6-luftmasker omgangen rundt. mvh DROPS design

06.09.2021 kl. 10:47:

country flag Monika Rudfält wrote:

Ska virka strl. S/M, men när jag ska fortsätta efter att stjärnan är virkad så blir det fel. Det finns bara 5 lmb kvar när 1:a varvet är virkat, det ska vara 7. Jag har 49 lmb som det ska vara. Tacksam för hjälp. Med vänlig hälsning Monika Rudfält, Hällefors

26.08.2021 - 15:16:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monika. Litt usikker på hvor det har gått galt hos deg, men etter A.1 var ferdig heklet i høyden, klippet du tråden? Du skal nå starte i den 4. luftmaskebuen. Hekle om hver av de 7 første luftmaskebuene, hopp over 8 luftmaskebuer (7+8=15). Hekle om de neste 19 luftmaskebuene (15+19=34). Hopp over 8 luftmaskebuer (34+8=42). Du skal nå ha igjen 7 luftmaskebuer (42+7=49 luftmaskebuer). mvh DROPS design

30.08.2021 kl. 11:36:

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Jeg sidder og forsøger at hækle denne jakke i str XL, men der mangler altså noget i mønsteret?? I str S/M hækles første omgang af A2, mens der laves ærmegab, og anden omgang laves der et antal buer hen over luftmaskerne ved ærmet. I str L-XXL hækles første omgang af A2, og først i anden omgang tages der ud til ærmegab. Herefter mangler der en overgang mellem luftmaskerne ved ærmet, til 3 omgang af A2. Skal der hækles en ekstra omgang buer? I så fald, hvor mange??

26.08.2021 - 01:36:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kirsten. Husk å lese HÆKLEINFORMATION-2 (overgang til næste omgang) i oppskriften? mvh DROPS design

27.08.2021 kl. 13:05:

country flag Catherine Green wrote:

I'm finding it really hard to understand how many stitches you need to insert in the centre circle to get the diagram going I have read your previous replies on how to read the diagram yet is still doesn't explain how many stitches as well as increase and decrease per row which makes it a little hard to actually understand or make sense of this pattern as an entirety.

29.07.2021 - 21:34:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Green, you have to repeat A.1 a total of 7 times in the round, this means you will have on first round: 2 treble crochets (UK-English) x 7 = 14 treble crochets on first round, and 7 ch-spaces x 7 = 49 ch-spaces on last round in A.1. Using a marker thread between each repeat can help you to follow the diagram and make sure you have the correct number of sts on each round - Hope this will help, happy crocheting!

30.07.2021 kl. 08:16:

country flag Renate wrote:

Wie arbeite ich die 3. Reihe von A2 an den langen Luftmaschenketten der Armausschnitte. Dazu finde ich absolut keine Angabe in der Anleitung und auch nicht in der Häkelschrift. ☹️

16.07.2021 - 19:50:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Renate, bei den 2 grösseren Grösse häkeln Sie die 3. Reihe in A.2 wie zuvor, dh wenn Sie 9 Luftmaschenbogen übersprungen haben die durch 38-41 Luftmaschen ersetzt wurden, dann häkeln Sie 9 Luftmaschenbogen (= 1 feste masche, 6 Luftmaschen) in diese 38-41 Luftmaschen-Bogen, dh am Ende dieser Runde haben Sie 64 Luftmaschenbogen wieder. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

19.07.2021 kl. 08:02:

country flag Solei wrote:

Hej! Jag får ingen rätsida på hur armhålen ska virkas... jag har virkat 2 luftmaskbågar för ärmar, rad 2 på A.2. Men hur virkar jag rad 3? I lmb om 38 maskor? Hur många 3 maskors luftmaskbågar + fastmaska ska det i så fall bli? Kan du också nämna var i mönster det står skrivet. Tusen tack!

12.07.2021 - 15:06:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solei, Vi skal bede design om at se på det når de kommer tilbage efter ferien. Hvis du ikke vil vente, kan du se på forklaringen i den mindste størrelse, hvordan man hækler over de løse luft masker. God fornøjelse!

13.07.2021 kl. 14:43:

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