DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 5.35 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 99.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blue Helix

Circle crocheted jacket in 1 strand DROPS Nord + 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is worked with lace pattern. Size: S – XXXL

DROPS 194-36
DROPS design: Pattern z-833
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 228-252-292 cm = 90”-99”-113”
Full length: 104-115-126 cm = 41”-45 1/4”-49 1/2”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-550 g color 16, jeans blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-175-200 g color 27, jeans blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 5.35 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 99.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first single crochet at beginning of round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first double crochet at beginning of round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Replace first treble crochet at beginning of round with 4 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (transition to next round):
Work slip stitches to first stitch on next round. If there is a chain space on last round work chain stitches until middle of first chain space on round. NOTE: Applies from the end of 3rd round in A.1 and until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 chain space as follows: Work * 1 single crochet + 1 chain space *, work from *-* 2 times in total around same chain space.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
NOTE: Pattern displaces the beginning of round, therefore adjust so that the 2 decreases are done mid under sleeve.
Decrease 1 chain space as follows: Work 1 single crochet around chain space, 1 single crochet around next chain space, 6 chain stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in the round in a circle from mid back of back and outwards. Work armholes on the circle. Work front pieces back and forth and then work a finishing edge around the entire circle. Work sleeves in the round, top down.

CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm = US H/8 with 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 7 times in total on round - read CROCHET INFO-1 and CROCHET INFO-2. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 49 chain spaces on last round. The circle measures approx. 34 cm = 13 3/8” in diameter.
Cut the yarn, and begin next round in 4th chain space = mid back/neck. Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the next 19 chain spaces, work 35 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 8 chain spaces, work around each of the last 7 chain spaces.
Repeat 2nd round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase - read INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Work around each of the first 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/single crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the next 19 chain spaces - increase 7 chain spaces over these chain spaces, work 10 chain spaces/single crochets around armhole (= 2 increases), work around each of the last 7 chain spaces - increase 2 chain spaces over these chain spaces (= 15 increases in total on round) = 64 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm = 17 3/4" in diameter.

SIZE L/XL - XXL/XXXL:
= 49 chain spaces.
Work first round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME increase 15 chain spaces evenly (i.e. increase 1 chain space over approx. every 3rd chain space) - read INCREASE TIP = 64 chain spaces.
Work second round in A.2 - AT THE SAME TIME work armholes as follows:
Work around each of the first 8 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the next 30 chain spaces, work 38-41 loose chain stitches (= armhole), skip 9 chain spaces, work around each of the last 8 chain spaces.
Then work 3rd round in A.2 without increasing. The circle measures approx. 45 cm = 17 3/4” in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 64 chain spaces for all sizes
Then work diagram A.3 in the round, work A.3 5-6-7 times in total vertically - AT THE SAME TIME increase on round marked with arrow in diagram - remember INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Increase 16 chain spaces on every round with increase, i.e.
1ST TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 4th chain space = 80 chain spaces.
2ND TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 5th chain space = 96 chain spaces.
3RD TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 6th chain space = 112 chain spaces.
4TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 7th chain space = 128 chain spaces.
5TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 8th chain space = 144 chain spaces.
Now continue in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S-M:
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 100 cm = 39 3/8” in diameter.

SIZE L/XL:
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 111 cm = 43 3/4” in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL
6TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 9th chain space = 160 chain spaces.
7TH TIME: Increase 1 chain space around every 10th chain space = 176 chain spaces.
Fasten off. The circle measures approx. 122 cm = 48” in diameter.

ALL SIZES:
= 144-160-176 chain spaces.
Continue working only over 40-44-47 chain spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 32-36-40 chain spaces at the top by neck and 32-36-42 chain spaces at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-44-47 chain spaces. Continue back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Work slip stitches until middle of the first chain space, 1 single crochet, * work 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 single crochet around last chain space = 39-43-46 chain spaces.
Repeat 1st row 3-3-7 more times. There are 36-40-39 chain spaces at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 40-44-47 chain spaces in the right side. Fasten off.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire circle as follows: Work last round in A.3, i.e. over every chain space work 1 single crochet and 3 chain stitches. Then work 1st round in A.3, i.e. work 3 treble crochet around every chain space. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 104-115-126 cm = 41”-45 1/4”-49 1/2” in diameter vertically and approx. 114-126-146 cm = 45”-49 1/2”-57 3/8” in diameter in width.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round from armhole.
Begin mid under sleeve and work 57-63-66 treble crochets evenly around armhole (= approx. 3 treble crochets around every chain space) = 1st round in A.3. Continue in the round on A.3 to and with last round. Then repeat A.3 vertically - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 chain spaces mid under sleeve, decrease on round marked with arrow in diagram - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every round marked with arrow 4-5-5 times in total = 11-11-12 chain spaces. Continue without decrease until sleeve measures approx. 42-44-46 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18” - adjust to finish after a round with treble crochets. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round (= 1st round)!
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = treble crochet around chain space
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Mary wrote:

I love this design but am having a bit of difficulty working around "round 3 in A.2". My issue is when I reach the armhole chain, how do I continue the A.2-3rd round? do I ignore the chain and work in the chain spaces from round 1 or do I work the same amount of ---T---T---T of skipped chain spaces? Or something else? I'm not sure I understand that part. I am working a size XL if that helps any.

01.03.2024 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, on round 3, you work over all stitches, as they are all now included in the pattern. So, over the chain stitches, work: 1sc/dc, ch3, as in the chart. Happy crochetting!

03.03.2024 - 19:53

country flag Anastasia wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei utilizzare un filato che viene lavorato con un ferro di 2.5-3 mm per questo modello (18 maglie×23 righe per ottenere un campione 10×10), è possibile? Devo tenere qualche accorgimento?

12.02.2024 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anaatasia, il filato è molto diverso da quello utilizzato nel modello: per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

13.02.2024 - 09:10

country flag Nm wrote:

Hi! Could you please tell me how much yarn I would need if I was using group C yarn for this pattern?

03.01.2024 - 05:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nm, please find how to calculate the new amount required (depending on the yarn you will choose) in this lesson, see 2 strands of different meterage to 1 strand.. Happy crocheting!

03.01.2024 - 08:37

country flag Manuela Liener wrote:

Hallo zusammen. ich habe, so gut wie immer, ein Problem mit der Maschenprobe. Bei mir stimmt die Höhe (mit entsprechender Nadel) aber so gut wie nie die Breite. Vor allem bei Häkelarbeiten. Was kann ich tun?

04.12.2023 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Liener, am besten versuchen Sie mit einer anderen Häkelgrösse bis Sie die genaue Maschenprobe in der Breite haben, dann können Sie versuchen, die Größe von Ihren Maschen anzupassen (etwas mehr oder weniger in der Höhe ziehen, je nach der Maschenprobe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.12.2023 - 08:42

country flag Agnes wrote:

I need to size down to XS. What would you suggest to start the circle?

02.10.2023 - 17:12

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai terminé le cercle mais je ne comprends pas les manches. J'ai de chaque côté une chaînette qui pend et sinke travail dessus Rien de ne sera fermé. J'ai peur de devoir tout défaire. Existe-t-il une photo pour les manches svp ? Merci beaucoup

01.06.2023 - 20:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, pour former les emmanchures, vous crochetez un tour en sautant des arceaux que vous remplacez par une chaînette (35-38-41 mailles en l'air, cf taille), autrement dit, ce tour doit être crocheté comme avant entre les emmanchures et avec 1 chaînette de chaque côté pour former un trou. Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons cette technique pour un gilet carré, elle devrait vous aider à comprendre comment procéder. Bon crochet!

02.06.2023 - 08:08

country flag Maryann Topham wrote:

There is an English saying, “a picture is worth a thousand words…” I wish I could see pictures of a partially completed sweater or send a picture as question. Or upload a pic of my project. I am really stuck on the creation of armholes, 2nd round of diagram A.2. (Sz L) Do my 38 chain stitches represent the circumference of an armhole or one half of an armhole, with the 9 skipped chain spaces making the other half? Does 3rd round apply to the chain of 38, skipped 9, or both?

01.04.2023 - 03:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maryann, for sharing your project pictures and asking for help you can join our DROPS workshop group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/DROPSWorkshop/, where other knitters will be able to help you. The armhole is formed by the 38 chain stitches AND the 9 skipped chain spaces. The 3rd round is only worked over the 38 chain stitches. Happy crochetting!

02.04.2023 - 22:26

country flag Monika wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Häkelinformation 2 nicht: In A1 endet fast jede Reihe mit Luftmaschen - also soll ich in der darauf folgenden Reihe Kettmaschen bis zur Hälfte des nächsten Luftmaschenbogen häkeln (??) Und dann?? Wie soll ich dann weiterhäkeln? Ich bin dann im Luftmaschenbogen - muss ich dann Stäbchen anschlagen?

28.03.2023 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, ab 3. Reihe in A.1 häkeln Sie 1 Kettmasche in die 1. /2. Masche (die Runde in A.1 beginnen in die 1., 2. oder 3. Stb von der vorrigen Runde) - wenn Sie dann Luftmaschenbogen (A.2/A.3) häkeln, dann häkeln Sie Kettmaschen bis die Mitte vom 1. Luftmaschenbogen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

29.03.2023 - 09:43

country flag Birgitte Kjærgaard wrote:

Synes opskriften ikke fortæller hvordan jeg arbejder videre med luftmaskekæden til armhul. Skal jeg arbejde på luftmaskekæden, eller de 9 buer jeg sprang over ? Hvis jeg arbejder på luftmaskekæden, hvor mange buer skal jeg lave herpå?

23.03.2023 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitte. Du hekler 3. omgang i A.2, også over luftmaskeraden. Du har heklet 38 eller 41 løse luftmaske, avhengig av hvilken str du hekler etter. En liggende oval sort tykk strek = 6 luftmasker, så når du skal hekle over luftmaskeraden må du telle slik at du hekler fastmasken midt om de 6 luftmasker. mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 - 12:56

country flag Albert Robine wrote:

Hallo beste Drops ontwerper. ik vind dit een heel mooi en leuk patroon. maar ik loop even vast. ik heb de armsgatenlossen ingehaakt en wil nu aan toer3 van a2 beginnen. alleen weet ik niet hoe dat moet ? moet dit op de ketting lossen (armsgaten)?en hoe dan? of op de toer daarvoor? en daarna moet ik toch eerst toer4 van a2 doen en daarna pas toer 1 van a3? dit staat ook nergens terug te vinden? alvast bedankt. Robine

24.02.2023 - 16:13