DROPS / 188 / 8

Petite Fleur by DROPS Design

Sweater with multi-colored pattern, flowers and round yoke, crocheted top down with 3/4 long sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS design: Pattern me-128
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 16, light pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 30, mustard

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO:
Work every row back and forth and work together at the end/beginning of every row as follows:
Beginning every row with double crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
Begin every row with single crochets with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet, turn piece.
On 3rd row in A.1 and 2nd row in A.4 begin and end row as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 stitches on previous row, 3 chain stitches (replace first double crochet), finish row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. Work both from right and wrong side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 93 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 13.28. I.e. in this example increase by working 2 single crochets in same stitch in approx. every 13th.stitch.
To decrease evenly in this example work every 12th and 13th stitch together.

COLOR PATTERN: 
When switching color at the beginning of a row, work slip stitch at the end of previous row with the new color.
When changing color on row work as follows: Work last double crochet with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, then work next stitch. When working with two colors place strand for the color not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows. When there are no more double crochets left on row to be worked in same color, the color does not need to follow onwards in piece, if it is to be used on next row, pick it up on next row, but make sure that the yarn comes on wrong side of piece.
Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.
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SWEATER:
Work piece back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and work together on every row, top down.

YOKE:
Work 109-114-118-123-129-133 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light pink with and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch - read CROCHET INFO, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 3-1-5-3-2-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* = 93-97-101-105-110-114 single crochets.

Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 single crochet in every single crochet and increase
7-15-23-23-30-30 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-112-124-128-140-144 single crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work next row as follows from right side - read COLOR PATTERN:
Work A.1 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions of 4 stitches) (= half back piece), work A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions of 1 stitch), A.1 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= right sleeve), A.1 over 36-40-44-44-56-56 stitches (= 9-10-11-11-14-14 repetitions) (= front piece), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions), A.1 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.2 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= left sleeve), A.1 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions = half back piece). When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 140-152-164-188-200-224 stitches on last row. Piece measures approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8''.
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 double crochets evenly = 144-156-168-192-204-228 double crochets. Then repeat A.3 12-13-14-16-17-19 times in width.
When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 228-247-266-304-323-361 stitches on last row (2 double crochets worked together = 1 stitch). Piece measures approx. 16 cm. Now finish piece with off white as follows:

Work A.4 over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME on first row increase 3-5-4-5-4-5 stitches evenly = 231-252-270-309-327-366 double crochets. Then repeat A.4 77-84-90-103-109-122 times in width.
On 3rd row in A.4 increase 9-6-9-6-9-6 double crochets evenly = 240-258-279-315-336-372 double crochets.
Then repeat A.4 80-86-93-105-112-124 times in width.
On last row in A.4 increase 6 double crochets evenly = 246-264-285-321-342-378 double crochets.
Then repeat A.4 82-88-95-107-114-126 times in width.
Continue pattern until piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm / 7 3/8"-8 ¼"-8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11" from neck edge, adjust so that next row is a row with only double crochets.
Now divide body and sleeves as follows: Work A.4 as before over the first 33-36-39-45-51-57 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-1-1-1-0-0 double crochets (= half back piece), skip the next 53-57-62-68-70-75 double crochets (= sleeve), work 8 chain stitches under sleeve, work 1 double crochet in 1-0-1-1-1-0 double crochets, work A.4 as before over the next 69-75-78-90-99-114 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 0-1-2-2-0-0 double crochets (= front piece), skip the next 53-57-62-68-70-75 double crochets (= sleeve), work 8 chain stitches under sleeve, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-1-1-1-0-0 double crochets, A.4 as before over the next 33-36-39-45-51-57 double crochets, (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 156-166-177-201-218-244 stitches. Work pattern A.4 and AT THE SAME TIME on first row increase 0-2-0-0-1-2 double crochets evenly (A.4 is then repeated 52-56-59-67-73-82 times in width) = 156-168-177-201-219-246 double crochets.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where body and sleeves where divided, decrease 3 double crochets on next row (adjust to decrease on a row with only double crochets). Decrease like this every 2½-2½-4-3-4-2½ cm 5-5-3-4-3-5 times in total = 141-153-168-189-210-231 stitches. For every decrease work 1 repetition less of A.4 in width.
When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'' from where body and sleeves where divided, increase 3 double crochets evenly (adjust to increase on a row with only double crochets).
Increase like this every cm 13-13-14-14-14-14 times in total = 180-192-210-231-252-273 stitches. For every increase work 1 repetition more of A.4 in width.
Continue until piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm / 11 ¾"-11 ¾"-12 1/8"-12 1/8"-12 1/8"-12 1/8" from where body and sleeves were divided (49-51-53-55-57-59 cm / 19¼''-20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼'' from neck edge), finish after 1 row with double crochets. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and work together with 1 slip stitch on every row.
Begin working in the 5th chain stitch of the 8 chain stitches worked in armhole on body with off white as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next 1-0-1-1-0-0 double crochet, A.4 over the next 51-57-60-66-69-75 double crochets (= 17-19-20-22-23-25 times in width), 1 double crochet in next 1-0-1-1-1-0 double crochet and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 4 chain stitches = 61-65-70-76-78-83 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of row.
On next row with double crochets decrease 4-5-4-4-3-5 double crochets evenly = 57-60-66-72-75-78 stitches. Now repeat A.4 19-20-22-24-25-26 times in the round on row.
When sleeve measures 4 cm / 1½'' from where piece was divided from body, decrease 3 double crochets evenly on next row (adjust to decrease on a row with only double crochets). Decrease like this every 4-4-3-2-2-1½ cm 3-3-4-4-4-4 times in total = 48-51-54-60-63-66 stitches. Every time you decrease, repeat A.4 1 time less in total in width.
Continue until piece measures 16-14-14-13-11-9 cm / 6 ¼"-5 ½"-5 ½"-5 1/8"-4 ¼"-3 ½" from where sleeve was divided from body. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work back and forth over chain stitch row in neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side with off white): Begin mid back, fasten yarn to piece with 1 slip stitch in a single crochet, work 2 chain stitches (= 1 half double crochet), work 1 half double crochet in every single crochet the entire row = 93-97-101-105-110-114 half double crochets.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side with light pink): Work 1 single crochet in every half double crochet = 93-97-101-105-110-114 single crochets. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= chain stitch with light pink
= single crochet in stitch with light pink
= single crochet in front loop of stitch from wrong side with off white
= single crochet in stitch /around stitches with off white
= double crochet in stitch with off white
= double crochet in stitch with light pink
= double crochet around chain stitch with off white
= work 4 double crochets together in same stitch with light pink as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 double crochets in same stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
= work 4 double crochets together in same stitch with mustard as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 double crochets in same stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
= work 2 double crochets together in same stitch with off white as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet more in same stitch, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
= row has already been worked, begin on next row
= chain stitch with off white
= crochet direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Myriam 28.01.2020 - 14:20:

Ik ben met patroon nr 188-7 begonnen wat moet ik doen na de tweede toer want als ik het lees moet ik nu met twee kleuren verder doen maar als ik op de foto kijk klopt dat toch niet Grt Myriam

Anna 13.06.2019 - 08:22:

Hallo, leider komme ich ab dem Teil mit dem Diagramm A.3 nicht weiter. Ich habe die vorherigen Runden mit den Diagrammen A.1 und A.2 abwechselt gehäkelt. Jetzt habe ich für die Gr. M 152 Maschen. Was muss ich jetzt häkeln?

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 09:23:

Liebe Anna, bei der 1. Reihe in A.3 häkeln Sie wie im Diagram gezeigt und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie 4 Stb regelmäßig verteilt (die sind nicht im Diagram gezeigt - siehe hier wie man so zunimmt), A.3 wird insgesamt 13 Mal in der Breite wiederholt (= über 12 M), am Ende der 1. Reihe haben Sie 156 M +1 Zunahmen in jedem den 13 Rapporte von A.3 = 169 M. Weiter wie in A.3 häkeln, wenn A.3 fertig ist haben Sie 19 M in jedem A.3 x 13 Rapporte sind 247 Stb. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Margarita 19.03.2019 - 12:27:

Excelente patrón, gracias por compartir

Carol 18.03.2019 - 20:49:

How do I save a pattern in My Favorites

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 10:25:

Dear Carol, click on "♥ Add to favourites" and follow the steps. Happy crocheting!

Monika 19.02.2019 - 23:03:

A co oznaczają pochylone pojedyncze słupki?

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 17:45:

Witaj Moniko! To jest po prostu słupek, schemat lekko rozszerza się na boki. Słupek jest tak naszkicowany, aby łatwiej było zobrazować to poszerzenie i dalej kolejny rząd. Pozdrawiamy

Monika 19.02.2019 - 12:20:

Dzień dobry czy schemat A3 przerabiany jest tylko na prawej stronie ?

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 17:03:

Witaj Moniko! Przerabiamy na przemian, na prawej stronie robótki i na lewej stronie robótki. 1-szy rząd schematu A.3 zaczyna się na prawej stronie robótki, kolejny jest już na lewej. Pozdrawiamy

Nancy De Groote 22.01.2019 - 10:05:

Als ik de eerst rij volg van A3 over de 12 steken en de 12 de steek worden 2 stokjes gehaakt heb ik wel na deze rij voor maat XL , 16 steken meer dan 4 en normaal moet 192 steken hebben. Mijn 188 steken kloppen op einde van A1 en A2 voor maat XL. Heb de eerste door van A3 al 4 keer uit getrokken!!! En een ervaren maakster begrijp er niets van die verhouding van de steken en de diagram van A3. Please help is voor cadeau dat deze haak

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 09:45:

Dag Nancy,

Voor maat XL haak je A.3 16 keer op de toer. Dus 16 keer 12 steken = 192 steken. Omdat je 188 steken op de toer hebt, moet je in de eerste toer van A.3 4 steken meerderen, zodat je op 16 herhalingen van 12 steken komt.

Tina 18.05.2018 - 11:56:

Wieviel Knäuel extra muss ich bestellen, wenn ich den Pulli mit langen Ärmeln häkeln möchte? Vielen Dank für die vielen tollen Anleitungen :-)

DROPS Design 18.05.2018 kl. 13:30:

Liebe Tina, dieses Pulli wird mit 3/4 Ärmel entworfen, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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