DROPS / 186 / 29

Taormina Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-046
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 25, lavender

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (for increases on yoke):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 116 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.25. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 7th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted into the pattern to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases on body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased). The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next round, there will be holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 116-120-126-132-139-144 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. The round starts mid back. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above.
Knit 1 round and increase 16-24-30-36-41-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 132-144-156-168-180-180 stitches.
Purl 1 round (the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work A.1a (= 12 stitches) in the round over all stitches (= 11-12-13-14-15-15 times in width)
Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME as you increase evenly on each round marked with and arrow in diagram A.1 as follows:
Each time you increase 12 stitches, work A.1 one more time in width.
Each time you increase 24 stitches, work A.1 two more times in width.
Each time you increase 36 stitches, work A.1 three more times in width.
INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 156-168-180-192-204-216 stitches.
INCREASE 2: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 180-192-204-216-228-252 stitches.
INCREASE 3: Increase 24 stitches = 204-216-228-240-252-276 stitches.
INCREASE 4: Increase 24 stitches = 228-240-252-264-276-300 stitches.
INCREASE 5: Increase 24 stitches = 252-264-276-288-300-324 stitches.
INCREASE 6: Increase 24 stitches = 276-288-300-312-324-348 stitches.
When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 14 cm from the neck edge. Now work A.1b over A.1a and then continue to increase as follows:
INCREASE 7: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 288-312-324-336-348-372 stitches.
INCREASE 8: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 300-324-348-360-372-396 stitches.
INCREASE 9: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 312-336-372-384-396-420 stitches.
INCREASE 10: Increase 12-12-12-12-24-24 stitches = 324-348-384-396-420-444 stitches.
The increases are now finished in sizes S, M and L, but continue in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL as follows:
INCREASE 11: Increase 12-24-24 stitches = 408-444-468 stitches.
INCREASE 12: Increase 12-12-24 stitches = 420-456-492 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 324-348-384-420-456-492 stitches (A.1b is now repeated 27-29-32-35-38-41 times in width).
Work pattern until the piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece into body and sleeves as follows: (The stitches which do not fit into the pattern are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled). Work pattern as before over the first 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches, work pattern as before over the next 88-98-106-120-132-146 stitches (= front piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches and work pattern as before over the last 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= half back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 196-216-232-260-284-312 stitches. Continue the pattern, the stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeve are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled. When A.1b has been worked 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm. Continue working in stocking stitch. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th round until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves = approx. 276-300-324-348-380-412 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work A.2 in the round over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 35-35-36-36-36-36 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the neck edge. Cast off (make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary).

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Place the 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 84-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 10 new stitches. Continue working A.1b over the stitches which fit into the pattern; the stitches which do not fit mid under sleeve are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled. When A.1b has been completed in height, the sleeve measures approx. 7-5-4-5-3-1 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body. Continue with stocking stitch.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm a total of 14-15-19-20-22-23 times = 56-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 33-32-31-29-28-26 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work A.2 over all stitches.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height cast off all stitches (make sure you cast off loosely, you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary).
The sleeve measures approx. 36-35-34-32-31-29 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 stitches together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is NOT worked twisted, there will be a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= increase arrow



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Vickie Parsons 06.10.2018 - 23:31:

Where is the pattern chart for A2? I checked 'to the left' (where the person from Germany was told to look, and it's not there. Is chart A1b actually chart A2? Help! Thanks :)

DROPS Design 07.10.2018 kl. 23:03:

Dear Vickie, the pattern for A.2 is just to the left of the pattern A.1a It is small, the column of two stitches and 14 round/ rows. Happy Knitting!

Sabina Jansen 01.09.2018 - 13:31:

Eigentlich komme ich gut zurecht mit dieser Anleitung. Aber wo ist dasMuster A2??? Hab jetzt alles schon mehrfach ausgedruckt, finde es nicht !! Hilfe

DROPS Design 04.09.2018 kl. 11:22:

Liebe Frau Janse, A.2 ist links auf der Seite (vor A.1a in der Grösse S-M-L), es wird über 2 M und 14 Reihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ricarda Klein 23.06.2018 - 17:52:

Obwohl ich genau nach Anleitung gestrickt, habe rollt am Rumpf die untere Abschlusskante ein. Schade und ärgerlich.

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 09:36:

Liebe Frau Klein, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen.

Ricarda Klein 01.06.2018 - 16:03:

Hallo und guten Tag ich habe eine Frage zum Diagramm. Wie sind die eingerückten 2 Zeilen in oberen Viertel zu verstehen ?

DROPS Design 01.06.2018 kl. 16:54:

Liebe Frau Klein, am Anfang der Reihe, stricken Sie die erste Masche aber diese Masche wird dann mit der letzten Maschen im letzten Rapport gestrickt. Am ende jedes Rapport, wird die letzte Maschen zusammen mit der ersten Maschen vom nächsten Rapport gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kari 18.05.2018 - 10:31:

Jeg har kommet til rad 35 i diagrammet A1a og jeg ser at alt forflytter seg med en maske, men hva gjør jeg med den første masken? Jeg kan ikke strikke kun 2 m rett for da forflytter motivet seg. Skal jeg strikke 3 masker eller hvordan gjør jeg det for å få det til å stemme ?

DROPS Design 25.05.2018 kl. 10:48:

Hei Kari. Hvis du ser på den siste masken i A.1a på samme omgang ser du at det er en felling som strekker seg 1 maske inn i neste rapport av A.1a. Det er denne fellingen som ser ut som en mangelende maske på starten av rapporten – men første maske blir altså strikket som en del av fellingen på forrige rapport. Strikk den alle første masken på omgangern rett, fortsett diagrammet som vanlig (2 rett, kast, felling), og når du kommer til slutten av omgangen vil omgangens første maske inngå i fellingen til den siste rapporten av A.1a. God fornøyelse.

Aurelie 18.03.2018 - 17:01:

Bonjour, je crois que je ne comprends pas bien le début du diagramme. Puisque le pull se tricote du haut en bas, dois je commencer le diagramme ( 3ème rang maille envers) ou par le bas( 3ème rang maille glissée) ? Lorsque je glisse 1 maille à l’endroit tricote la suivante et passe par dessus, je perds une maille à chaque fois? J’es Que mes questions sont assez claires. Cordialement. Merci pour ces beaux modèles.

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 10:56:

Bonjour Aurélie, les diagrammes se lisent toujours en commençant en bas à droite et de droite à gauche tous les tours. Suivez bien les symboles du diagramme tels qu'ils sont décrits, sans rien modifier. Bon tricot!

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