DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Taormina Cardi

Knitted jacket with lace pattern, round yoke and short sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS 186-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-048
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 25, lavender

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 to A.3).
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for increases on yoke):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 143 stitches) minus the band stitches (e.g. 10 stitches = 133 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 5.54. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over alternately after approx. every 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row, work the yarn overs twisted into the pattern to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases on body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased). The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next row, there will be holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn): Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½ cm between each.
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JACKET:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth, top down. The short sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 126-130-136-142-149-154 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. The next row is worked as follows – from the right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 stitches and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 44-46-48-52-57-58 stitches and increase 1-5-1-5-8-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 stitches and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band) = 143-155-167-179-191-191 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side (the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Remember BUTTONHOLES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), A.1a (= 12 stitches), work A.2a (= 12 stitches) over the next 108-120-132-144-156-156 stitches (= 9-10-11-12-13-13 times in width), A.3a (= 13 stitches) and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band). Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME as you increase evenly on each row marked with an increase arrow as follows:
Each time you increase 12 stitches, work A.2 one more time in width.
Each time you increase 24 stitches, work A.2 two more times in width.
Each time you increase 36 stitches, work A.2 three more times in width.
INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 167-179-191-203-215-227 stitches.
INCREASE 2: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 191-203-215-227-239-263 stitches.
INCREASE 3: Increase 24 stitches = 215-227-239-251-263-287 stitches.
INCREASE 4: Increase 24 stitches = 239-251-263-275-287-311 stitches.
INCREASE 5: Increase 24 stitches = 263-275-287-299-311-335 stitches.
INCREASE 6: Increase 24 stitches = 287-299-311-323-335-359 stitches.
When A.1a to A.3a have been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 14 cm from the neck edge. Now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a and continue to increase as follows:
INCREASE 7: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 299-323-335-347-359-383 stitches.
INCREASE 8: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 311-335-359-371-383-407 stitches.
INCREASE 9: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 323-347-383-395-407-431 stitches.
INCREASE 10: Increase 12-12-12-12-24-24 stitches = 335-359-395-407-431-455 stitches.
The increases are now finished in sizes S, M and L, but continue in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL as follows:
INCREASE 11: Increase 12-24-24 stitches = 419-455-479 stitches.
INCREASE 12: Increase 12-12-24 stitches = 431-467-503 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 335-359-395-431-467-503 stitches (A.2b is now repeated 25-27-30-33-36-39 times in width).
Work pattern until the piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast on edge. Now divide the body and sleeves on the next row from the right side as follows: (The stitches which do not fit into the pattern are worked in the same way as the first stitch in A.1b). Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= front piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under the sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 89-99-107-121-133-147 stitches (= back piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under the sleeve) and work pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches, finishing with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band = front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 207-227-243-271-295-323 stitches. Continue with pattern and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side of the piece; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern are worked in the same way as the first stitch in A.1b. When A.1b to A.3b have been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm. Continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side of the piece.
Insert 1 marker thread 54-59-63-70-76-83 stitches in from each side (= front pieces = 99-109-117-131-143-157 stitches on back piece).
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th row until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves = approx. 287-311-335-359-391-423 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work the next row as follows from the right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, work A.4 until there are 6 stitches left, work A.5 over the next stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 35-35-36-36-36-36 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the neck edge. Cast off (make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary).

SLEEVE EDGES:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Place the 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 84-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Continue with A.2b over the stitches which fit the pattern; the stitches which do not fit the pattern mid under sleeve are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled. When the sleeve edge measures 3 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body (adjust so that you finish neatly in relation to the pattern) change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Then cast off, make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.03.2018
Diagram A.1a has been edited.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 stitches together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is NOT worked twisted, there will be a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = increase arrow
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Brunet Cathy wrote:

Je ne vois pas le diagramme A4 ETA5

28.06.2021 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brunet, vous les trouverez juste à droite du schéma des mesures (ils se tricotent tous les 2 sur 2 mailles). Bon tricot!

28.06.2021 - 16:08

country flag Brita Carlsson wrote:

Om man tittar på fotot kan jag inte se att mönstret upprepas efter delning till fram-bak och ärm utan det ser ut som om slätstickningen börjar! Ärmen verkar sluta med 1 omgång A2b. Tacksam om jag får en förklaring!

29.04.2019 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Brita. Diagrammene strikkes kun 1 gang i høyden, det stemmer. Etter at du er ferdig med A.1a-A.3a strikker du A.1b-A.3b. Når du deler inn til for/bakstykket og ermer, er du ikke ferdig med diagrammene, så du strikker noen omganger på bolen etter diagram. Når A.1b-A.3b er strikket 1 gang i høyden fortsettes det med glattstrikk. God fornøyelse

30.04.2019 - 14:36

country flag Maybritt Jørgensen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke printe denne opskrift, eller andre. Kan I oplyse mig hvorfor ???? mvh Maybritt

24.09.2018 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maybritt. Vi har nå testet det og får helt fint til å printe ut oppskriften. Kanskje det har noe å si hvordan du velger å printe den ut? Det skal fungere om du trykker du på det lille printerikonet rett under boksen med garn og priser, helt på toppen der det står instruksjoner til oppskriften. God fornøyelse.

25.09.2018 - 08:09

country flag Daphne Klug wrote:

Werden bei den Zunahmen am Rumpfteil immer 4 Machen zwischen den Umschlägen gestrickt? Oder immer 2 Maschen mehr, so dass ein Keil entsteht?

29.06.2018 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klug, es sind immer 4 Maschen zwischen den Zunahmen auf beiden Seiten am Rumpfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.06.2018 - 11:45

country flag Kate Andersen wrote:

Kan det virkelig passe der står under “udtagningstips” at omslagene strikkes IKKE drejet på næste pind, de skal lave hul!!?? men det er jo i siden mellem forstykker og ryg og ikke en del af et hulmønster!! Så jeg forstår slet ikke hvorfor der skulle være et hul på hver 4. Pind ned langs siden?? Måske det er en fejl??? Håber jeg får hurtig svar, da jeg gerne vil videre. På forhånd TAK. Mvh Kate Andersen

08.03.2018 - 00:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kate. Det er riktig slik det står i oppskriften. Det skal lages hull i sidene (2 hull i hver side), slik at det blir et flott hullmønster samtidig som det økes fra ermhullen og ned. Hullmønstret vises dessverre ikke på bildet, men om du ser på oppskrift nr 186 / 37 Taormina Top, vil du se litt av mønstret. God Fornøyelse!

08.03.2018 - 09:40

country flag Johanna Koivusipilä wrote:

Lisäyskierroksen jälkeen, tuleeko uusi mallikerta mihin kohtaan neuletta?

23.02.2018 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, lisäykset tehdään aina nurjilla kerroksilla (oikealta puolelta katsottuna). Tämän jälkeen työhön tulee aina enemmän piirroksen A.2 mallikertoja ja nämä mallikerrat neulotaan piirrosten A.1 ja A.3 mallikertojen sisäpuolelle kuten aiemmin. Eli toistat vain piirroksen A.2 mallikertaa yhden, kahden tai kolmen ylimääräisen kerran.

22.03.2018 - 14:32

country flag Fadenhexe wrote:

Wunderbar, dass es neben diesen ganzen abgemagerten Plastikpüppchen auch einmal eine echte Frau gibt, die die Modelle präsentiert. Da bekommt man endlich eine Vorstellung davon, wie sie in Wirklichkeit aussehen könnten. Bitte, behalten Sie diese Dame unbedingt unter Ihren Models!!!

16.02.2018 - 13:51

country flag Betty wrote:

If using different models for the photoshoots, then models of all ages should be used not only very young or granny models. Some clothing simply does no suit everyone due to bodytype and /or age

20.01.2018 - 11:42

country flag Betty wrote:

If using different models for the photoshoots, then models of all ages should be used not only very young or granny models. Some clothing simply does no suit everyone due to bodytype and /or age

20.01.2018 - 11:41

country flag Katheryn Roberts wrote:

I love it, please include it.

19.01.2018 - 11:16