DROPS / 186 / 37

Taormina Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top with lace pattern, round yoke and short sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-049
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 25, lavender

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (9)

100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (for increases on yoke):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 116 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.25. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 7th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted into the pattern to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases on body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased). The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next round, there will be holes.
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TOP:
The yoke and body are worked in the round, top down. The short sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 116-120-126-132-139-144 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. The round starts mid back. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above.
Knit 1 round and increase 16-24-30-36-41-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 132-144-156-168-180-180 stitches.
Purl 1 round (the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work A.1a (= 12 stitches) in the round over all stitches (= 11-12-13-14-15-15 times in width)
Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME as you increase evenly on the rounds marked with an arrow in diagram A.1 as follows:
Each time you increase 12 stitches, work A.1 one more time in width.
Each time you increase 24 stitches, work A.1 two more times in width.
Each time you increase 36 stitches, work A.1 three more times in width.
INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 156-168-180-192-204-216 stitches.
INCREASE 2: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 180-192-204-216-228-252 stitches.
INCREASE 3: Increase 24 stitches = 204-216-228-240-252-276 stitches.
INCREASE 4: Increase 24 stitches = 228-240-252-264-276-300 stitches.
INCREASE 5: Increase 24 stitches = 252-264-276-288-300-324 stitches.
INCREASE 6: Increase 24 stitches = 276-288-300-312-324-348 stitches.
When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 14 cm from the neck edge. Now work A.1b over A.1a and the increases continue as follows:
INCREASE 7: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 288-312-324-336-348-372 stitches.
INCREASE 8: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 300-324-348-360-372-396 stitches.
INCREASE 9: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 312-336-372-384-396-420 stitches.
INCREASE 10: Increase 12-12-12-12-24-24 stitches = 324-348-384-396-420-444 stitches.
The increases are now finished in sizes S, M and L, but continue in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL as follows:
INCREASE 11: Increase 12-24-24 stitches = 408-444-468 stitches.
INCREASE 12: Increase 12-12-24 stitches = 420-456-492 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 324-348-384-420-456-492 stitches (A.1b is now repeated 27-29-32-35-38-41 times in width).
Work pattern until the piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: (The stitches which do not fit into the pattern are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled). Work pattern as before over the first 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeves, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under the sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches, work pattern as before over the next 88-98-106-120-132-146 stitches (= front piece), place the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= side under the sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches, work pattern as before over the last 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= half back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 196-216-232-260-284-312 stitches. Continue to work pattern; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeves are knitted when the stitches are knitted and purled when the stitches are purled. When A.1b has been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm. Continue working in stocking stitch. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th round until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where the body and sleeves were divided = approx. 276-300-324-348-380-412 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work A.2 in the round over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, the piece measures approx. 35-35-36-36-36-36 cm from where the body and sleeves were divided and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the neck edge. Cast off (make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary).

SLEEVE EDGE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Place the 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 84-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Continue with A.1b over the stitches which fit into the pattern; the stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeve are purled when the stitches are purled and knitted when the stitches are knitted. When the sleeve measures 3 cm from where it was divided from the body (adjust so that you finish neatly in relation to the pattern) change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Then cast off, make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 stitches together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is NOT worked twisted, there will be a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= increase arrow



Helga 24.04.2019 - 13:29:

I would like to thank Garn studio to include this older lady as model. As the population is getting older they are often forgotten. So a biggggg thank you for doing so. This is my next project it looks fantastic.

Lynda 11.09.2018 - 19:20:

I’m a little surprised by a comment made that this lovely lady pictured in this photo is not of an average size. Not everyone is a size 2. We as knitters should be able to use our imagination to create beautiful pieces to share with our loved ones.

Daisie 19.08.2018 - 14:53:

This model is beautiful but please also include photos of regular sized models. It is very difficult to "imagine" what the garment would look like on an average/small body. Thank you kindly.

Eva Sjømoen 17.05.2018 - 20:35:

Jeg får bare opp to diagrammer på min oppskrift. Hvordan skal jeg få oppskrift med alle fem diagrammene. Har fått svar at alle fem skal være i oppskriften. Jeg får kun opp de to diagrammene med A1B i to varianter (til forskjellige størrelser).

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 08:49:

Hei Eva. Vi har sjekket denne oppskriften igjen og kunne ikke se noen feil eller mangler med diagrammene. Men vi har nå lastet dem opp på nytt og håper dette løser problemet. God fornøyelse

Eva Sjømoen 16.05.2018 - 10:52:

Hvor er mønster A1a? Står øverst i oppskriften at det er to mønstre, A1 og A2, men i oppskriften er de referert til som a og b. Det er kun A1b som ligger ved i oppskriften. Det mangler også tre tegn i tegnforklaringen.

DROPS Design 17.05.2018 kl. 14:54:

Hej Eva, Du finder alle 5 diagrammer nederst i opskriften (lige ovenfor måleskitsen) God fornøjelse!

Loly Aguilar 29.04.2018 - 12:33:

Hola! La vuelta 35 como la tengo que empezar para que me quede bien ,pues no la entiendo del diagrama A.1a en la vuelta de antes al terminar hay que empezar la vuelta 35 o que pues no lo consigo entender poner vídeos de esto para que lo veamos y así entenderlo . Muchas gracias

Vicky 14.04.2018 - 23:40:

Sí, así lo hice. Muchísimas gracias! :D

Vicky 08.04.2018 - 20:20:

Sí, eso lo tengo claro. Pero la duda es el primer punto de la primera repetición. Hago 3Dr para compensar dicho desplazamiento? No sé si me explico. Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 14.04.2018 kl. 12:40:

Hola Vicky, no,si haces un punto de más, no vas a llegar al último punto. El dibujo se desplaza y, por tanto, tu también tienes que desplazarte y trabajar según el diagrama.

Vicky 06.04.2018 - 15:39:

Duda sobre diagramas. En A-1.a vueltas 35 y 39. Y en A-1.b vuelta 23. Entiendo que el desplazamiento a la izq es para que cuadre el dibujo, y que el último punto (12) de cada repetición se teje con el primero (1) de la siguiente. Pero al empezar la vuelta, ¿qué hago con el primer punto? P.ej. en la v35 el diagrama se desplaza a la izquierda, dejando un Hueco en el 1º Punto y luego 2 dr, etc. ¿Qué tengo que hacer con ese 1º hueco del inicio? ¿Tejo 3 dr al inicio? Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 08.04.2018 kl. 19:04:

Hola Vicky, no falta ningún punto. El hueco que hay al principio de la repetición del diagrama en esta fila se compensa con el último punto de la repetición del diagrama, que sobresale hacia fuera por el otro lado. El número de puntos en la repetición se mantiene constante.

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