DROPS / 188 / 25

Cecina by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with garter stitch and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Delight.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-182
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 05, beige/grey/pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 41 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 8 items in all sizes.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round – for sleeves):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

STRIPES:
To make the garment more stripy, work with 2 alternate balls of the same colour; adjust the balls so that you start with 2 different colours. * Work 2 rows with the first ball, then work 2 rows with the other *, work from *-*. The first row with a new ball is worked from the right side. The strands are carried forward as you work.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at both markers (= a total of 4 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 stitches together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, then make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½ cm. Then work the other 7 buttonholes with approx. 7-7½-8-8-8½-8½ cm between each.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 132-136-144-148-156-160 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Delight. Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, work rib (= knit 2 /purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work STRIPES – see description above, to finished length. Remember BUTTONHOLES – see description above. When the rib measures 2 cm, change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 16-17-19-20-22-23 stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece), A.1 (= 7 stitches), 15 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 7 stitches (= left sleeve), 32-34-38-40-44-46 stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), A.1 over 7 stitches, 15 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 7 stitches (= right sleeve), 16-17-19-20-22-23 stitches in garter stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
The increased stitches in A.1 are worked in garter stitch, increase 2 stitches in each A.1 on each row from the right side (= a total of 8 stitches increased every 2nd row). Work A.1 a total of 4-8-13-13-16-19 times in height = 164-200-248-252-284-312 stitches. Then work A.2 over A.1. Increase 2 stitches in each A.2 every 4th row (= a total of 8 stitches increased every 4th row). Work A.2 a total of 15-14-13-16-16-16 times = 284-312-352-380-412-440 stitches. Then work A.3 over A.2, the remaining stitches are worked in garter stitch. When the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-31 cm from the cast-on edge, divide the piece as follows from the right side: Work 43-46-52-57-63-69 stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece), place the next 60-68-76-80-84-86 stitches on a thread for sleeve (= left sleeve), cast on 12 new stitches under the sleeve, 77-83-95-105-117-129 stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), place the next 60-68-76-80-84-86 stitches on a thread for sleeve (= right sleeve), cast on 12 new stitches under the sleeve and finish with 44-47-53-58-64-70 stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
= 188-200-224-244-268-292 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Insert 1 marker 49-52-58-63-69-75 stitches in from each side of the piece (= front pieces = 90-96-108-118-130-142 stitches on back piece). Allow the markers to follow your work onwards. Continue with garter stitch and stripes. When the piece measures 2 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4½-3-4-5-5-4 cm a total of 6-8-7-6-6-7 times = 212-232-252-268-292-320 stitches. When the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-32 cm increase 28-32-36-36-40-44 stitches evenly on next row (do not increase over the bands) = 240-264-288-304-332-364 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (the first row is worked from the wrong side) as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib (= purl 2 / knit 2) until there are 7 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Cast off with knit when the rib measures 2 cm (the piece measures a total of 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the neck edge). Make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-68-76-80-84-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-80-88-92-96-98 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! The piece is worked in the round. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 12 stitches knitted up under the sleeve. Leave the marker thread where it is; the marker follows your work onwards! Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, and stripes. When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1 cm 0-7-11-14-17-17 times, then every 3 cm a total of 13-9-8-6-4-4 times = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches.
When the piece measures 42-40-40-38-36-34 cm from the marker thread, increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). . When the rib measures 2 cm (the piece measures a total of 65-65-66-66-66-67 cm from the neck edge) cast off with knit. Make sure you cast off loosely; you can use a needle 1 size larger if necessary. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is not worked twisted on the next row to leave a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= knit 2 together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Christine 02.03.2020 - 20:53:

Hallo,ich bin gerade dabei, die Passe mit dem Diagramm A1 zu beginnen. Wie verfährt man das Diagramm A1 dann ab der dritten Reihe? Die 7 Maschen sind ja nun um 2 Maschen zugenommen. Wie versetze ich die Löcher? Mfg Christine

DROPS Design 03.03.2020 kl. 09:42:

Liebe Christine, die 3 mittleren Maschen in A.1 müssen immer die 3 selben Maschen sein, dh die Umschläge von der 1. Reihe in A.1 werden immer beidseitig von den 3 mittleren Maschen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Zabeth 17.06.2019 - 09:54:

Pour votre adresse Drops workshop, la page n'est pas disponible!

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 12:28:

Bonjour Zabeth, juste une erreur de codage dans le lien, vous trouverez le groupe DROPS Workshop ici. Merci!

Zabeth 14.06.2019 - 17:20:

Y-a-t il un galerie sur votre site où mettre des photos de nos réalisations?

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 06:49:

Bonjour Zabeth, si vous avez un blog, vous pouvez nous envoyez le lien via ce formulaire, vous pouvez également nous taguer avec #dropsfan sur les réseaux sociaux, et rejoignez notre groupe DROPS Workshop. Bon tricot!

AGUDO PARMAIN LYDIA 09.06.2019 - 16:25:

Re bonjour ! j'ai trouvé l'erreur, je n'avais pas marqué le moment où il me fallait changer de point endroit et envers ! donc je continue......

AGUDO PARMAIN LYDIA 09.06.2019 - 14:09:

Bonjour, je pense avoir suivi toutes les explications pour relever les mailles pour reprendre les manches avec les aiguilles doubles pointes. Mais je suis très surprise car en tricotant toujours du point mousse à tous les rangs j'ai du jersey sur l'endroit du travail. C'est magique mais ce n'est pas le résultat que j'espérais.... merci de m'indiquer où j'ai manqué qqchose. A très bientôt. Lydia

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 11:10:

Bonjour Mme Agudo Parmain, pour tricoter du point mousse en rond, on doit alterner *1 tour en mailles endroit et 1 tour en mailles envers* - voir vidéo, autrement dit, comme expliqué au début des explications sous POINT MOUSSE (en rond – pour les manches). Bon tricot!

Zabeth 27.05.2019 - 13:38:

Merci, c'est bien ce que j'avais compris.

Zabeth 27.05.2019 - 09:03:

Pour A2, sur le 1er rg on fait 2 m endroit, 2 m ensembles, 1 jeté, 3 m endroit, 1 jeté 1 surjet simple, en fait il n'y a pas d'augmentations sur ce rang? Elles se font sur le 3 ième rg c'est bien ça? Je ne comprends pas à quoi sert le 1er rg?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:56:

Bonjour Zabeth, dans A.2 on augmente tous les 4 rangs (= à chaque fois que l'on tricote le rang 3 de A.2), mais pour conserver les jours tous les 2 rangs comme avant, on tricote le 1er rang comme indiqué (= 2 diminutions, 2 jetés = on a toujours 1 jour comme avant de part et d'autre des 3 m du milieu). Bon tricot!

Zabeth 23.05.2019 - 10:24:

C'est nettement plus clair comme ça. Je vous remercie.

Zabeth 22.05.2019 - 18:48:

Les premières augmentations A1, ça représente à la fin : 24 m pour le devant gauche,(A1=33m+15m+A1=33 manche gauche), 38 m dos, (A1=33m+15+A1=33m manche droite), 24 m devant droit=248m. A1 c'était : 1er rg 2m 1 jeté, 3m, 1 jeté, 2m, bien sûr ces 7 mailles ce sont agrandies jusqu'à 33 m à la fin des augmentations. Donc au milieu les 3 m on pris de l'ampleur, c'est bien comme ça qu'il fallait comprendre!

DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 09:11:

Bonjour Zabeth, les jetés de A.1 sont les augmentations pour le raglan, la 2ème fois que vous répétez A.1, vous aurez: 25 m pour le devant, A.1 (= 7 m + 2 jetés), 17 m pour la manche, A.1 (= 7 M + 2 jetés), 40 m pour le dos, etc... les 3 m du milieu de A.1 et les 2 jetés doivent être toujours alignés. Bon tricot!

Elisabeth BOURGUIGNON 22.05.2019 - 18:45:

J'ai une question, trop longue, je fais comment? Vos explications ne sont pas clairs du tout et je ne peux pas demander au magasin où j'ai acheté la laine, il a fermé définitivement!!

DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Mme Bourguignon, essayez de reformuler votre question ou d'en poser plusieurs en plusieurs commentaires - peut-être trouverez vous une réponse dans la FAQ, dans nos leçons ou vidéos.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 188-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.