DROPS / 188 / 18

Vaporeux by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with ribbed edges. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

Tags: jumpers, oversized,
DROPS Design: Pattern no ab-085
Yarn group C + C or E
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-350 colour 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-125-125-150-175 g colour 12, powder pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 MM – or the size needed to get 10 stitches and 14 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 8 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 2.10 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 2.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 2.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 71 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.1. In this example, work approx. every 9th and 10th stitch together.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 71-71-77-83-89-95 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows - from the right side: 4 stitches GARTER STITCH - see description above, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 3 stitches, 4 stitches garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm. Knit 1 row (with 4 stitches garter stitch in each side) where you decrease 7-3-5-7-9-11 stitches evenly on row (but not over stitches in garter stitch) – read DECREASE TIP = 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch with 4 stitches garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm from the cast-on edge. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! At the start of the next 2 rows cast off 3 stitches in each side for armholes = 58-62-66-70-74-78 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Now cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches. Then cast off for diagonal shoulder on each row from the side/armhole as follows: Cast off 9-10-11-12-12-13 stitches 1 time and 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches1 time. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the top of shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as for back piece, but when piece measures 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm place the middle 10-10-10-10-12-12 stitches on a thread and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to cast off stitches from each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-2 time = 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm – adjust to match back piece, cast off for diagonal shoulders on each row from the side/armhole as follows: Cast off 9-10-11-12-12-13 stitches 1 time and 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches 1 time. Piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from top of shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib (= knit 3 /purl 3) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 5 cm. Change to circular needle size 9 mm. Then work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 11-9-8-11-9-8 cm increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 11-9-10-15-13-9 cm a total of 2-3-4-2-3-4 times = 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches. When piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders), cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Asembly is worked with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast off edge so the seam is flat. Sew sleeves to body. Sew the seams underneath the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew the side seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, but leave approx. 10 cm for split at bottom. Repeat on the other side. Cut and fasten strands.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up 60-60-66-66-72-72 stitches (including stitches from the thread) around the neck with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Gina 21.10.2019 - 22:26:

Nochmal ich, sorry, dass ich so blöde Fragen stelle: Wenn ich die Anleitung richtig verstehe, wird der Pulli doch mit doppelt Faden gestrickt. Richtig? Des Wegen habe ich mich über die Mengenangabe gewundert. Liebe Grüße aus Hamburg Gina

DROPS Design 22.10.2019 kl. 10:47:

Liebe Gina, ja genau, den Pulli stricken Sie mit 2 Fäden = 1 Faden Alpaca Bouclé + 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk (Maschenprobe mit 2 Fäden = 10 Maschen x 14 Reihen glatt rechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gina 19.10.2019 - 14:08:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur benötigten Wollmenge: Der Pulli sieht relativ groß aus und trotzdem braucht man nur 200 Gramm Wolle. In den Angaben zu der Alpaca Boucle steht , dass man 300 - 350 Gramm für einen Pulli in Grüße 38 braucht. Kommt man dann wirklich mit 200 Gramm für die Größen S order M aus? Vielen Dank im Voraus. Gina

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 09:33:

Liebe Gina, in S brauchen Sie 200 g Alpaca bouclé (= 4 Knäuel x 140 m) + 100 g Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 4 Knäuel x 140 m), dh insgesamt 300 g Garn und ca 1120 m. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

M Barrueco 19.10.2019 - 10:51:

Bjr. peuxt on connaitre les explications avec des aiguilles droites. ? combien de pelotes pour un pull taille xl ? merci

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 13:46:

Bonjour Mme Barrueco, chaque pièce se tricote ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, seul le col se tricote en rond (tricotez le col avant de faire la 2ème couture d'épaules si besoin). Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les aiguilles circulaires et ici comment calculer le nombre de pelotes nécessaires. Bon tricot!

Caroline 04.03.2019 - 13:58:

I love the look of this garment and would like to make it out of a yarn group E (Andes) yarn how much either grams or meters would I need for XXL as I'm struggling to figure it out, thanks x

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 16:00:

Dear Caroline, please find here how to calculate the new amount of yarn if worked with a yarn group E remember however that the texture will be different due to the differences in the yarns. Your DROPS store will provide you any further assistance, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Paula 09.12.2018 - 21:37:

Hola, estoy intentando hacer el jersey pero me he quedado atascada en la parte de delante, no entiendo la finalidad de pasar los puntos al hilo ni como tengo que ir rematando, si pudiéseis explicármelo para que lo entienda os lo agradecería.

DROPS Design 16.12.2018 kl. 22:25:

Hola Paula. Los puntos centrales se dejan en espera para trabajar después la parte del escote. Ahora cada parte del delantero se termina por separado. Vas cerrando los puntos para formar el escote - al inicio de cada vuelta ( por el lado derecho - para el delantero derecho y por el lado revés para el delantero izquierdo). Como los hombros tienen forma inclinada, se cierra varias veces (al principio de la vuelta por el lado revés para el delantero derecho y por el lado derecho para el delantero izquierdo). Los puntos restantes en cada fila se trabaja como antes.

Dom 06.12.2018 - 23:07:

Bonjour combien faut il de pelote pour une taille s et m merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 08:15:

Bonjour Dom, en taille S, il faut 200 g DROPS Alpaca Bouclé / 50 g la pelote = 4 pelotes + 100 g Brushed Alpaca Silk / 25 g la pelote = 4 pelotes. Bon tricot!

Edith Finweg 22.11.2018 - 17:42:

Brauche ich tatsächlich nur 175 g, wenn ich diesen Pulli in XXL oder XXXL mit Brushed Alpaka Silk stricken möchte? Ich habe noch genauso viel Material. Wäre schlimm, wenn ich nicht mehr nachbestellen könnte und der Pulli erst halb fertig ist... :-(

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 09:50:

Liebe Frau Finweg, dieser Pulli wird mit 2 Fäden gestrickt; 1 Faden Alpaca Bouclé + 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk, in diesem Fall brauchen Sie nur 175 g Brushed Alpaca Silk + dazu 350 g Alpaca Bouclé. Wenn Sie ihn nur mit Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken möchten, sollen Sie die Garnmenge in Alpaca Bouclé umrechnen - benutzen Sie unser Garnumrechner und lesen Sie hier = mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mette 08.09.2018 - 13:32:

Jeg er vild med modellen, men kunne godt tænke mig at strikke den i drops sky og evt på en pind 4,5 - kan jeg følge mønstret eller skal jeg regne noget om?

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 10:58:

Hei Mette. Denne modellen er strikket med en strikkefasthet på 10 mx 14 p = 10 x 10 cm. Om du endrer på dette vil dimensjonene på plagget bli helt annerledes enn angitt. Det er brukt garn fra garngruppe E (evt 2 tråder fra C) og pinne 9. Sky tilhører garngruppe B, og selv med 2 tråder ville dette kun tilsvare garngruppe D. Om du endrer pinnestørrelsen fra 9 til 4,5 vil dette også endre på strikkefastheten og hele oppskriften vil måtte regnes om. Vi anbefaler at du forholder deg til den angitte strikkefastheten, men så lenge du gjør det kan du endre pinner og garn som du måtte ønske, uten å påvirke plaggets endelige mål. God fornøyelse.

Susanne Anklam 19.08.2018 - 14:34:

Ist es richtig , dass nur 300 g wolle für einen Pullover in S benötigt werden?

DROPS Design 24.08.2018 kl. 10:32:

Liebe Susanne, ja, das ist korrekt, insgesamt werden 300 g benötigt. Beide Garne haben eine vergleichsweise lange Lauflänge und der Pullover wird luftig gestrickt. Falls Sie eine Garnalternative verwenden möchten, müssen Sie die Lauflänge berücksichtigen. Beachten Sie, dass Sie die Maschenprobe und die Maße einhalten müssen, damit das Garn reicht. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

Lorena 27.04.2018 - 11:18:

Hola, Quiero hacer este jersey y me he comprado lo necesario, cambiando eso sí, la lana DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ por DROPS AIR, pero ya simplemente tejiendo la muestra los puntos me quedan muy sueltos. He comprado agujas circulares de 8mm y 9mm, tengo que apretar más los puntos? es cuestión de que las agujas no sean de la marca drops? Si pudiéseis darme unos consejos sobre cómo hacerlo os lo agradecería! Gracias de antemano!

DROPS Design 30.04.2018 kl. 20:43:

Hola Lorena. ALPACA BOUCLÉ tiene una forma muy especial ( muy rizada ) y es bastante difícil buscar otra lana para sustituirla que tenga el mismo efecto. Y más aún con Alpaca Silk. Si lo vas a trabajar sólo con Air hay que usar agujas 4,5- 5 mm. Si vas a trabajar con Air y Alpaca Silk entonces se puede trabajar con agujas más gordas. Pero la labor en ambos casos va a salir diferente a la de la foto.

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