DROPS / 186 / 18

Taormina by DROPS Design

Jacket with lace pattern and round yoke, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-047
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color 25, lavender

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 for edges in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 to A.3).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to increase on yoke):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 143 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches = 133 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 5.54.
I.e. in this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to increase on body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased on row). Do not work yarn overs twisted on next row, they should make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): Work from right side until 3 stitches remain at the end of row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½"-3/4''. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 8½ cm / 3 1/4'' apart.
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JACKET:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 126-130-136-142-149-154 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with BabyMerino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 44-46-48-52-57-58 and increase 1-5-1-5-8-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band) = 143-155-167-179-191-191 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side but knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), A.1a (= 12 stitches), work A.2a (= 12 stitches) over the next 108-120-132-144-156-156 stitches (= 9-10-11-12-13-13 times in width), A.3a (= 13 stitches) and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band). Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly on every row marked with increase arrow in diagram A.1 as follows:
Every time 12 stitches are increased work A.2 1 more time in total in width.
Every time 24 stitches are increased work A.2 2 more times in total in width.
Every time 36 stitches are increased work A.2 3 more times in total in width.
1ST INCREASE: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 167-179-191-203-215-227 stitches.
2ND INCREASE: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 191-203-215-227-239-263 stitches.
3RD INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 215-227-239-251-263-287 stitches.
4TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 239-251-263-275-287-311 stitches.
5TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 263-275-287-299-311-335 stitches.
6TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 287-299-311-323-335-359 stitches.
When A.1a to A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 14 cm / 5½'' from neck edge. Now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a and continue increases as follows:
7TH INCREASE: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 299-323-335-347-359-383 stitches.
8TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 311-335-359-371-383-407 stitches.
9TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 323-347-383-395-407-431 stitches.
10TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-12-12-24-24 stitches = 335-359-395-407-431-455 stitches.
Increase is now done in size S, M and L, but continues in XL, XXL and XXXL as follows:
11TH INCREASE: Increase 12-24-24 stitches = 419-455-479 stitches.
12TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24 stitches = 431-467-503 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 335-359-395-431-467-503 stitches (repeat A.2b 25-27-30-33-36-39 times in width).
Work pattern until piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½'' from cast-on edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves from right side as follows: (Work stitches that do not fit the pattern as first stitch in A.1b) Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 89-99-107-121-133-147 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band = front piece).
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 207-227-243-271-295-323 stitches. Work pattern with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of piece, work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in each of the sides (i.e. under sleeves) as first stitch in A.1b. When A.1b to A.3b have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm / 10½"-10½"-10½"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4''. Then work in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of piece.
Insert 1 marker thread 54-59-63-70-76-83 stitches in from each side (= front pieces = 99-109-117-131-143-157 stitches on back piece).
On next row from right side, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th row until piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm / 12½"-12½"-13"-13"-13"-13'' from where body was divided from sleeves = approx. 287-311-335-359-391-423 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, work A.4 until 6 stitches remain, work A.5 over next stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 35-35-36-36-36-36 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4'' from where body was divided from sleeves and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½'' from neck edge. Bind off (make sure to bind off loosely, bind off with 1 needle size bigger if needed).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 84-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Work A.2b over the stitches that fit the pattern, purl the stitches that do not fit the pattern under sleeve when stitches are purled and knit them when stitches are knitted. When A.2b has been worked vertically, sleeve measures approx. 7-5-4-5-3-1 cm / 2 3/4"-2"-1½"-2"-1"-½'' from where sleeve was divided from body.
On next row decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8'' 14-15-19-20-22-23 times in total = 56-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 33-32-31-29-28-26 cm / 13"-12½"-12 1/4"-11½"-11"-10 1/4'' from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work A.4 over all stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, bind off all stitches (make sure to bind off loosely, bind off with 1 needle size bigger if needed).
Sleeve measures approx. 36-35-34-32-31-29 cm / 14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-12½"-12 1/4"-11½'' from where sleeve was divided from body. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2018
Diagram A.1a has been edited.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, do NOT work yarn over twisted, it should make a hole
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= increase arrow





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Sarah 04.08.2019 - 09:09:

Hallo - ich habe eine Frage zu den Zunahmen im Diagramm A1-3a Teil. Werden die Zunahmemaschen in der Reihe mit dem Pfeil einearbeitet und erst in der Folgereihe das Diagramm A2a dann 1 oder 2 mal mehr gestrickt? Ich verstehe leider nicht wir man in einer Reihe Maschen gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen und gleichzeitig A2a öfter stricken soll wenn die zusätzlichen Maschen noch nicht vorhanden sind. Für eine schnelle Hilfe wäre ich sehr dankbar! Liebe Grüße Sarah

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 16:29:

Liebe Sarah, wenn Sie bei den Reihen mit einem Pfeil zunehmen, stricken Sie (zuerst) 1 x A.2 a-c mehr (= 12 Zunahmen = 1 x A.1b) in der Breite bei der nächsten Reihe, dh, Sie stricken immer: A.1 x 1, dann wiederholen Sie A.2 einmal mehr (bei 12 Zunahmen), dann mit A.3. Das Lochmuster wird nicht übereinander wie im Diagram aussehen, aber das Muster passt immer die neuen Maschenanzahl. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nicole Almaraz 10.07.2019 - 17:17:

Why do I only see four increase arrows for the first set of charts but in the instructions it says I will increase six times?

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 08:19:

Dear Mrs Almaraz, in the diagrams A.1a, A.2a, A.3a all sizes there are 6 arrows (= 6 rows with increases), then in the diagrams A.1b, A.2b, A.3b there are only 4 arrows (= 4 rows with increases) in the first 3 sizes and 6 arrows (= 6 rows with increases in the 3 larger sizes). Happy knitting!

Mamatea 30.05.2019 - 14:16:

Werden die Zunahmen der Passe nur im Teil A.2a durchgeführt? D.h. werden 12M A.1a gestrickt, dann X Mal A.2a und dann 13M A.3a? Oder wird auch in den äußeren rechten und linken Teilbereichen ,(A.1a und A.3a) zugenommen? Vielen Dank für die Info!

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 09:34:

Liebe Mamatea, die 12 (oder 24) Maschen werden bei der Reihe mit einem Pfeil in A.1 regelmäßig verteilt zugenomen, diese Maschen werden aber durch die ganze Reihe zugenommen (außerdem die Blendemaschen) - siehe ZUNAHMETIPP-1 (gilt für die Passe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Linda Floer 22.03.2019 - 09:43:

Jeg fant A.4 og A.5 tilslutt 😀 ved siden av diagrammet

Linda Floer 22.03.2019 - 08:06:

Hei, jeg holder på å strikke denne oppskriften. Skal det være et diagram til A.4 og A.5? Jeg finner ikke dette, eller noen beskrivelse av det.

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 08:21:

Hi Linda. Ja, A.4 og A.5 ligger helt nederst ved siden av målskissen. De er kanske små (henholdsvis 1 og 2 masker x 14 rader), så fort gjort å overse. God fornøyelse

Sibill Kowcz 10.11.2018 - 11:01:

De onderkant van het vest krult heel erg. Is dit weg als het geperst is?

DROPS Design 11.11.2018 kl. 12:45:

Dag Sibill,

Het krullen gaat inderdaad weg als je de rand opgeperst hebt.

Ilovedogs 19.07.2018 - 12:22:

Scusatemi: ho provato a lavorare questo cardigan adattandone le misure per la mia nipotina di 4 anni, e mi sono accorta di aver sbagliato tutto...probabilmente non ho capito la spiegazione data per gli aumenti: cosa significano quelle "stringhe" di numeri, per esempio 24-24-24-24-24-36 maglie? Potete aiutarmi, per favore?

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 12:30:

Buongiorno Ilovedogs, le stringhe di numeri indicano le maglie per le diverse taglie, dalla S alla XXXL. Se sta ad esempio lavorando la taglia S, deve far sempre riferimento al primo numero della stringa e così via. Buon lavoro!

ANNA 01.07.2018 - 10:40:

Buongiorno,vorrei fare questo cardigan in drops safran quanti gomitoli dovrei comprare per una taglia M?10 gomitoli basteranno visto il metraggio piu' corto rispetto a questa lana?Grazie per la risposta!

DROPS Design 01.07.2018 kl. 11:16:

Buongiorno Anna. Deve calcolare la lunghezza complessiva del filato indicato (quindi 175 metri x 9 gomitoli = 1575 m) e dividerli per i metri di safran in un gomitolo: 1575 : 160 = 9,84. Può eventualmente decidere di acquistare un gomitolo in più di scorta. Buon lavoro!

Lisa Lebrija 29.05.2018 - 16:43:

Hej. Jeg har valgt at trevle det hele op. Bærestykket var forstort. Og underdelen bliver for vid med alle de masker der bliver på 33 cm, når jeg har 34 p på 10 cm. Så jeg tror jeg må finde en anden opskrift. For ellers skal jeg strikke bærestykket på p 3,5 og underdelen (det glatte) på p 4,5. Det bliver noget rod.

Lisa Lebrija 29.05.2018 - 15:18:

Hej igen. Uanset hvad så skal I have 12 masker mere i str. L end de 335 m. 33 cm giver 105,6 p. Der tages ud på hver 4 p, det giver 26,4 gange á 4 masker, det bliver 104 + 243 fra inden udtagningerne. Desværre havde jeg læst forkert og har 25,5 m X 34 p på 10 cm. Jeg strikker endda på p 4. Så jeg må jo bare trævle de hele op igen.

DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 16:08:

Hej Lisa, hvis ellers målene stemmer ifølge måleskitsen, så tror jeg ikke du kan se om du stopper udtagningerne lidt tidligere end du ellers havde gjort. Så prøve lige at måle igen inden du trevler det hele op. Held og lykke!

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