DROPS / 176 / 8

Beach Day by DROPS Design

Top with lace pattern, worked bottom up in DROPS Paris. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Beach Day / DROPS 176-8 - Top with lace pattern, worked bottom up in DROPS Paris. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Beach Day / DROPS 176-8 - Top with lace pattern, worked bottom up in DROPS Paris. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-634
Yarn group C or A + A
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 19, light yellow

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM – or the hook size needed to get 14 treble crochets and 8.5 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1.
ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat ROW 2 consecutively.

Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

The piece is worked in 2 sections which are sewn together at the end.

Cast on 71-77-83-93-103-113 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and Paris. Work 4 rows MOSS STITCH – see description above.
Now work the pattern as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, work 23-26-29-34-39-44 stitches stocking stitch, start on the 13th-9th-7th-3rd-1st-29th row in the diagram and work A.1 (= 23 stitches), work 23-26-29-34-39-44 stitches stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way back and forth, on the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4th row 0-0-0-8-12-14 times and every 2nd row 23-23-24-10-3-0 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! At the end of the next 2 rows, cast on 10-9-7-9-9-7 new stitches for the sleeves = 137-141-145-147-151-155 stitches.
Now work the pattern as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in moss stitch, work A.2 (= 7 stitches), work stocking stitch and A.1 as before until there are 9 stitches left on the needle, work A.2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in moss stitch. When the piece measures 40-42-43-45-46-48 cm and a complete repeat of A.1 has been worked in height the cast off for neck starts and each shoulder is finished separately. READ THE ENTIRE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work diagram A.3 above A.1, work as before over the other stitches, AT THE SAME TIME the middle stitch should be cast off for neck as shown in diagram (A.3 is then divided and shows the pattern on each side of the neck, the pattern in A.3 should be worked 1 time, then work in stoking stitch). Cast off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 8 times in all sizes and 1 stitch 2-3-3-4-4-5 times = 50-51-53-53-55-56 stitches on the shoulder. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

Cast on and work as for the back piece.

Sew the shoulder seams with graft stitches. Sew the sleeve seam. Sew the side seam inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Repeat on the other side.

Crochet with hook size 5 mm an edge around the neck as follows: Work 1 double crochet up on the shoulder, * work 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around the whole neckline, finish with 1 chain stitch and 1 slip stitch in the double crochet from the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.


symbols = Knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = Make 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On the next row purl the yarn overs so that there are holes
symbols = Knit 2 together
symbols = Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Emanuela Verzani 02.04.2021 - 22:51:

Hi, I am following small side, I start the pattern on row 13 and where do I end it? at the end of the pattern? and then I repeat from row 23 again. OR do i start from row 13, do it all then start from row 1 at next repeat? thanks

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 08:42:

Dear Mrs Verzani, finish diagram then start again from row 1 to last row. Happy knitting!

country flag Torill Lehre 06.08.2020 - 19:20:

Hvor mange ganger sjal rapporten strikkes før det skal økes til ermer?

user icon DROPS Design 10.08.2020 kl. 11:45:

Hei Torill. Det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du strikker. Du øker i hver side slik: Øk på hver 4.pinne 0-0-0-8-12-14 ganger og på hver 2.pinne 23-23-24-10-3-0 ganger. Husk at du starter ved pilen i din størrelse i diagrammet. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Silvie Dědková 14.04.2020 - 18:02:

Thank you very much for your quick answer. It is exactly as I thought. But please look at the pattern A3, it is confusing - you cast off the middle stitch in the 2nd row, then you cast off 2 stitches in 3rd or 4th (for one side and then for the other one - both at the beginning), but if you look at the pattern then you would be supposed to cats off on both sides in 5th and 6th row 2 stitched every time (meaning at the beginning and at the end of the next one). I think this is an error in A3.

country flag Silvie Dědková 13.04.2020 - 19:19:

Hello, I have a question regarding the neckline decreasing. How do I decrease 2 stitched every row? I understand if I do it every second row (at the beginning), but according to the A3 pattern I have to decrease every row - at the end of a row and at the beginning of the following one (first one stich, then I have two rows to decrease two on each side, but then I have to decrease two EVERY row). And after that do I decrease every row or every other row? Thanks a lot for explanation.

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 13:11:

Dear Mrs Dědková, after you have cast off the middle stitch, you continue each shoulder separately and cast off then decrease at the beginning of every row from neck (= every other row). Happy knitting!

country flag Ulrike 22.06.2019 - 10:07:

Liebes team ich verstehe die anleitung zur zunahme nicht, ich striche den pilli für größe L, es ist leider sehr unverständlich beschriben, bitte helft mir , vielen lieben dank

user icon DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 07:26:

Liebe Ulrike, in Größe L nehmen Sie 1 Masche beidseitig (= 2 Zunahmen pro Reihe) insgesamt 24 Mal in jeder 2. Reihe = 48 Maschen zugenommen + 83 M = 131 Maschen. Dann schlagen Sie am Ende jeder der nächsten 2 Reihe (=Hin + Rückreihe) 7 Masche 1 Mal = 131 + 14 = 145 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Adejong 25.03.2019 - 17:35:

L.S., Ik stelde de vraag verkeerd, ik moet maat M breien maar ze is langer dan 1.70 m... De totaal lengte van de trui moet worden 60 cm. maar wel maat M... kan ik het patroon dan gewoon aanpassen of langer maken... vrgr

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2019 kl. 13:56:

Dag Adejong,

Als je het lijf hoger wilt hebben vanaf de boord tot waar de armsgaten beginnen dan zou je even een herberekening kunnen maken m.b.v. je proeflapje. Als je weet hoeveel naalden er in 10 cm gaan, dan kun je uitrekenen om de hoeveel naalden je zou moeten meerderen om op jouw gewenste hoogte te komen. Op die manier blijft de diagonale lijn in de zijnaden behouden. Je kan er ook voor kiezen om nog een aantal naalden tricotsteek te breien, maar dan komt er een knik in die diagonale lijn.

country flag A De Jong 24.03.2019 - 11:13:

L.S., Na de boord en de 46 naalden is mijn rugpand pas 20 cm hoog... Maar ik zou nu moeten gaan meerderen voor de mouw. Kan ik nog even tricotsteek (patroonsteek) blijven breien tot aan ca 25-27 cm zodat ik voor de lengte beter uitkom en daarna meerderen voor de mouw? De maat is M maar het lijf moet langer Volgens mij is de hals van het voorpand lager dan voor het rugpand, maar dit blijkt niet uit het patroon. Heel graag hoor ik van u.

user icon DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 08:58:

Dag A De Jong,

Als je nog niet op de juiste hoogte bent dan klopt waarschijnlijk de stekenverhouding in de hoogte niet. Je kan nog een stukje doorbreien, maar als je dat zonder meerderingen doet, dan krijg je wel een beetje een andere lijn in de zijnaad (wat op zich geen probleem is, maar even iets om rekening me te houden, mocht je dit niet willen).

Verder is het voorpand hetzelfde als het achterpand bij de hals. (De tkening komt helaas niet altijd 100% overeen.)

country flag Mercedes 19.06.2017 - 09:42:

La espalda y el delantero son iguales? En el dibujo no lo parece y el delantero una vez tricotado parece muy escotado, espero que después con el ganchillos se embeba.

user icon DROPS Design 24.06.2017 kl. 12:41:

Hola Mercedes. La espalda y el delantero se trabajan de la misma manera. Comprueba la tensión del tejido y las medidas del escote según el patrón. Te recomiendo controlar la tensión de los puntos más externos hacia al escote para que no queden muy flojos.

country flag Regina 03.05.2017 - 13:52:

Er staat: Meerder zo elke 4e naald 0-0-0-8-12-14 keer en elke 2e naald 23-23-24-10-3-0 keer. Wordt daarmee bedoelt dat gewoon elke naald op de goede kant gemeerdert wordt of dat elke 2e naald op de goede kant (dus eigenlijk elke 4 naalden) gemeerdert moet worden. En dan wordt het aantal steken tussen de kantsteek en het patroon A.1 ook steeds 1 meer? Klopt dit of maak ik nu een fout? Alvast bedankt.

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2017 kl. 14:35:

Hallo Regina, Als er staat elke 4e naald, dan wordt met die 4 naalden alle naalden bedoeld, dus zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naald. Hopelijk is het zo duidelijk en kun je nu weer verder.

country flag Bernari 31.03.2017 - 13:35:

Bonjour, sur le croquis du modèle l'encolure devant et dos est différente ; mais dans les explications, seule l'encolure dos est expliquée et encore je pense que c l'encolure devant. Merci de me répondre

user icon DROPS Design 31.03.2017 kl. 15:04:

Bonjour Mme Bernari, le schéma est un standard, l'encolure est la même pour le devant et pour le dos. Bon tricot!

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