Amandine by DROPS Design

Knitted top with lace pattern and lace edge, worked bottom up in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 176-12
DROPS design: Pattern cm-059
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 04, lilac

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows/rounds in pattern seen from the right side.

Begin 3 stitches before marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these stitches), knit 2 together.

Decrease inside A.2/A.3 in each side. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows before A.3: Begin 1 stitch before A.3: Knit last stitch in stocking stitch and first stitch in A.3 together.
Decrease as follows after A.2: Slip last stitch in A.2 knitwise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

Worked in the round on circular needle up to armhole, then work front and back piece back and forth separately.

Cast on 198-214-230-250-274-302 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Work pattern A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker in each side; 1 at the beginning of round and 1 after 99-107-115-125-137-151 stitches (= sides). When piece measures 6 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of markers in the side (= 4 stitches decreased) - READ DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease every 5-5-5½-5½-6-6 cm 7 times in total = 170-186-202-222-246-274 stitches. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, work ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, over 12-16-16-24-28-40 stitches in each side (= 6-8-8-12-14-20 stitches on each side of each marker), continue the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. When 2 ridges have been worked in the side, work next round as follows: Cast off the first 2-4-4-8-10-16 stitches, knit 81-85-93-95-103-105 stitches, cast off the next 4-8-8-16-20-32 stitches, knit 81-85-93-95-103-105 stitches and cast off the last 2-4-4-8-10-16 stitches. Now finish front and back piece back and forth separately.

= 81-85-93-95-103-105 stitches. Continue as follows, purl first row from wrong side: A.3, begin on 2nd row in pattern (from the left side in diagram) (= 10 stitches), work in stocking stitch until 10 stitches remain and finish with A.2, begin on 2nd row in pattern (from the left side in diagram) (= 10 stitches). On next row from right side decrease 1 stitch in each side, decrease inside A.2 and A.3 - SEE DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease on every other row (every row from right side) 3-5-6-7-8-9 times in total = 75-75-81-81-87-87 stitches. When piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm (decreases are now done), continue as follows from right side: A.2, A.4 until 11 stitches remain, finish with 1 stitch in stocking stitch and A.3. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows from right side: A.2, A.5 A (= 7 stitches), A.5 B over the next 42-42-48-48-54-54 stitches, A.5 C (= 6 stitches), finish with A.3. Continue this pattern until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 31-31-35-35-39-39 stitches. Finish each shoulder separately. On next row decrease 1 stitch from the neck = 21-21-22-22-23-23 stitches remain on each shoulder. NOTE: Work stitches that do not fit the pattern towards the neck in stocking stitch when decreasing. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

= 81-85-93-95-103-105 stitches. Work as back piece until piece measures 52-54-56-57-59-61 cm = 75-75-81-81-87-87 stitches. Now slip the middle 25-25-29-29-33-33 stitches on a stitch holder and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 21-21-22-22-23-23 stitches remain for shoulder - NOTE: Work stitches that do not fit the pattern towards the neck in stocking stitch when decreasing. Continue pattern as before. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

Sew the shoulder seem, sew edge to edge in outermost stitch to avoid a thick seem.

Pick up approx. 80 to 100 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder) on a short circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH, then cast off by knitting.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.06.2017
Diagram A.3 has been updated.


symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted
symbols = knit 2 together from right side and wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn-over between 2 stitches
symbols = 1 double yarn-over between 2 stitches, on next row knit first yarn-over, drop second yarn-over off the needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over stitches knitted together
symbols = cast off one stitch
symbols = knit 2 stitches in 1 stitch (from right side and wrong side)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Froufrou wrote:

Bonjour, Dans le diagramme A1 : Je ne comprends pas les deux premier rangs. Rang 1 : que faut il faire ? Rang 2 : que faut il faire ? Est ce du point mousse ? Merci

26.09.2022 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Froufrou, suivez attentivement les indications de la légende, quand vous tricotez A.1 en rond, procédez ainsi: 1er rang: à l'endroit, 2ème rang: à l'envers, 3ème rang à l'endr, 4ème rang à l'envers, 5ème rang à l'endroit, 6ème rang (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté) tout le tour, 7ème rang: à l'end et 9ème rang à l'envers. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 kl. 17:17

country flag Marion wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage beim Stricken des Musters A. 5. Es soll A5A und dann über 42 Maschen A5B gestrickt werden. In der dritten Reihe geht das Muster jedoch auch in A5A und A5C über(1Masche abheben, 2 zusammen stricken und abgehobene Masche über die zusammengestrickten ziehen). Wie sollen die 5. und 6. Masche bei dem Ende des ersten Mal A5B und die erste Masche ab der zweiten Wiederholung von A5B gestrickt werden?

25.10.2021 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, wenn Sie in der 3. Reihe A.5B stets wiederholen, ergibt sich automatisch die doppelte Abnahme (abheben, zusammenstricken, überziehen). Sie stricken diese doppelte Abnahme also mustergemäß so lang, bis A.5C gestrickt werden muss, also gegen Ende der Reihe vor A.3. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

28.10.2021 kl. 10:15

country flag Lise P wrote:

Re-bonjour. J’ai fait et refait des échantillons à plusieurs reprises, en suivant la vidéo en tricotant comme mentionné avec Le décalage indiqué et A-2 et A-3 ne donnent toujours pas le même effet. Est-ce que quelqu’un peut m’aider ? Je ne voudrais pas devoir abandonner ce projet. Merci!

25.06.2021 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise, contactez votre magasin en lui montrant ce que vous avez fait (même en photo), ce sera bien plus simple. Vous pouvez également demander de l'aide à d'autres tricoteuses dans notre 25.06.2021 kl. 16:22

country flag Lise P wrote:

Je crois que Sur l’endroit et sur l’envers les quatre dernières mailles se tricotent à l’endroit Il y a quelque chose que je n’arrive pas à saisir... Dommage que vous n’ayez pas fait la vidéo pour les trois diagrammes 🙂

16.06.2021 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise P, rappelez-vous que les diagrammes se lisent de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers, vous ne faites pas la même chose en même temps sur A.2 et A.3, vous avez 1 rang de décalage. Les 4 premières mailles de A.2 et les 4 dernières mailles de A.3 sont des mailles point mousse (= à l'endroit tous les rangs). Bon tricot!

17.06.2021 kl. 08:16

country flag Lise P wrote:

Concernant la dentelle, j’ai regardé la vidéo plusieurs fois. Ça fonctionne bien pour les diagrammes montrés, soit A3 et A5 mais lorsqu’on fait le A2, ça ne donne pas exactement le même effet que A3. C’est comme si le jeté qu’on laisse tomber au 3e rang de A2 se retrouve sur l’avant du tricot et non à l’arrière comme sur A3

15.06.2021 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise, A.2 se tricote en début de rang sur l'endroit/fin de rang sur l'envers et A.3 se tricote en fin de rang sur l'endroit et en début de rang sur l'envers, ainsi, le rang avec le double jeté se fait au 2ème rang = sur l'envers dans A.2 et au 3ème rang = sur l'endroit dans A.3. Pour que le motif soit bien symétrique, ils ont un rang d'écart. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

16.06.2021 kl. 07:15

country flag Lotta Johansson wrote:

När jag stickar A4 och ska sticka 3 e raden uppifrån börjar jag på avigsidan?

17.04.2021 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotta, den skal strikkes fra avigsidan :)

28.04.2021 kl. 13:52

country flag Christa Dewilde wrote:

Hallo, ik zou graag dit patroon breien maar zou graag de hals wat dieper willen. Het is ook de eerste keer dat ik van boven naar beneden zal breien. Dankjewel voor de hulp

23.04.2020 - 18:29

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais savoir si se modèle peux se faire au crochet merci

24.05.2019 - 08:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, ce modèle existe uniquement en version tricot, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles de hauts au crochet. Bon crochet!

24.05.2019 kl. 08:33

country flag Anastasia wrote:

Hallo, ich bin an der Stelle, an der man das Muster A.4 1* in der Höhe stricken soll. An den Seiten wird A.2/A.3 gestrickt. Diese haben eine Höhe von 4 Reihen aber A.4 hat eine Höhe von 6 Reihen. Wenn ich mit A4 fertig bin fange ich mit A.5 an. Dann fehlen aber 2 Reihen von A.2/A.3 für den schönen Rand. Ist das richtig? Schöne Grüße Anastasia

05.02.2018 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anastasia, wenn A.2 in der Höhe gestrickt wird, von der 1. Reihe wiederholen. Und nach A.4 stricken Sie A.5 über die Maschen von A.4 (A.2 weiter stricken und in der Höhe widerholen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2018 kl. 16:52

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