DROPS / 177 / 27

Summer Sky by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Summer Sky / DROPS 177-27 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern in DROPS Air. 
Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Summer Sky / DROPS 177-27 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern in DROPS Air. 
Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Model ai-052
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 18, light grey green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40+80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or needles required so that 17 stitches and 22 rows of stocking stitch make 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for garter stitch borders.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE / GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (for mid underarm):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row, work the yarn overs twisted knit so that there are no holes.
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JUMPER:
The body is worked in the round on circular needle up to the armholes. Then work the front and back pieces separately, back and forth on the circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 168-180-196-216-236-256 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES - see description above. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 84-90-98-108-118-128 stitches (= the sides). Work 1 round knit. The next round is worked as follows: 15-18-22-23-28-33 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 (= 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches), A.2 (= 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches), A.3 (= 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches), work stocking stitch for the rest of the round. Continue the pattern in the same way and allow the marker threads to follow the work upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off 6 stitches in each side for the armholes (3 stitches on each side of both marker threads). Front and back pieces are continued separately.


BACK PIECE:
= 78-84-92-102-112-122 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 1-2-3-3-4-4 times = 68-72-74-82-86-90 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Now cast off the middle 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 19-21-21-25-26-28 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm and then cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 78-84-92-102-112-122 stitches. Continue with the pattern as before and cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row in each side in the same way as for the back piece = 68-72-74-82-86-90 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-52-54-56 cm. Now place the middle 22-22-22-22-20-20 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is worked separately. Continue the pattern as before and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-3-3 times = 19-21-21-25-26-28 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm and then cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 34-36-38-38-40-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm and Air. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES - see description above. Change back to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid underarm. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 10-8-8-8-6-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid underarm – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 3-3-2½-2-2-1½cm in total 11-12-13-16-17-18 times = 56-60-64-70-74-78 stitches. When the piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to broader shoulder width and longer sleeve cap), cast off the middle 6 stitches under sleeve and the sleeve cap is finished back and forth on a short circular needle. Work stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 2-3-3-3-3-3 times and 1 stitch 4-4-5-5-5-6 times. Continue to cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row in each side until the piece measures approx. 52-52-52-51-51-51 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 53-53-53-52-52-52 cm. Work one more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves.

NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 80 to 92 stitches around the neckline (including the stitches from the thread in front) with a short circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 round purl, 1 round knit and 1 round purl. Change to short circular needle size 5 mm and cast off while working in knit on the right side.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches work 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Eva 20.02.2021 - 16:59:

I am knitted up to the armhole and about to continue the back piece. The instruction says that "Continue with stocking stitch and cast off for the armhole" and Not continue with pattern as stated for the the front piece? is the back piece from the armhole knitted just plain sticking stitch???

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 08:10:

Dear Eva, the pattern and diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3 are only worked on the front piece from the beginning, this means back piece is entirely worked with stocking stitch. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

country flag Jo Moïse 21.04.2020 - 18:29:

En ce temps de confinement j'ai de la laine en stock.Le modèle Rivage 199/22 me plaît. Comment adapter les motifs ajourés? L'échantillon 24m32r est converti en 28m38r. Merci de votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 08:24:

Bonjour Mme Moïse, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Vous pouvez vous adresser au votre magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine (certains sont restés disponibles), ou bien sur un forum tricot. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

country flag Kathi 17.01.2019 - 14:56:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Aber was ist mit „am Anfang jeder Reihe gemeint?“ Nehme ich die 9 Maschen mit einem Mal ab oder teile ich die Abnahmen über mehrere Reihen auf, bis ich insgesamt 9 M abgenommen habe? LG

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 15:21:

Liebe Kathi, es wird insgesamt 9 Maschen aber auf beiden Seiten: 2 M 3 Mal und 1 M 3 mal: am Anfang der nächste Hinreihe ketten Sie 2 M, am Anfang der nächste Rückreihe ketten Sie 2 M ab = es wurden 2 M auf beiden Seiten abgekettet, dh am Anfang der 2 nächsten Reihen haben Sie 2 Maschen abgekettet. Diese beide Reihe noch 2 weitere Mal wiederholen = jetzt haben Sie 2 M 3x auf beiden Seiten abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kathi 17.01.2019 - 09:01:

Hallo, wie ist das mit den Abnahmen für die Armausschnitte am Rückenteil gemeint: 3 Maschen 0-0-0-1-1-2 x, 2 M 2-2-3-2-3-3 x und 1 Masche 1-2-3-3-4-4 x = 68-72-74-82-86-90 Maschen. Ich stricke L und verstehe wie viele Maschen jeweils beidseitig abgenommen werden müssen. LG

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 09:40:

Liebe Kathi, Sie sollen für die Armausschnitte auf beiden Seiten (am Anfang jeder Reihe) so abketten: 2 M 3 x und 1 Masche 3 x =12+6 M. Sie hatten 92 M - 18 M = 74 M. bleiben (= 9 M werden auf beiden Seiten abgekettet). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kathi 10.01.2019 - 13:03:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Aber woher weiß ich, ob ich in der Hinrunde oder Rückrunde bin? Bei mir stellen sich die rechten Masche, die man auf der Vorderseite sehen müsste, als linke Maschen da.

user icon DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 13:13:

Liebe Kathi, das Rumpfteil wird in der Runde gestrickt, dann stricken Sie z.B. A.1 mit 2 li M, dann Löchermuster mit rechten Maschen - siehe Grösse - und mit 3 li M enden (= 14-16 M je nach der Grösse). Die li Maschen (= schwarze Punkte) werden immer links in der Runde gestrickt und die leere Kästchen werden immer rechts in der Runde gestrickt. Wenn Sie dann Vorder und Rückenteil separat stricken, lesen Sie die Löcherreihen = Hinreihen rechts nach links und die anderen (gerade) Reihen links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kathi 10.01.2019 - 08:57:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Diagramm-Abfolge nicht. Woran erkenne ich, wann ich eine Hin- oder eine Rückreihe stricken muss? Man fängt doch bei A1 unten rechts an, und strickt weiter mit A2 und A3 oder? Da das Rumpfteil in Runden gestrickt werden soll, stricke ich doch nur von rechts nach links, oder nicht? Bitte dringend um Hilfe. Vielen Dank, liebe Grüße. Kathi

user icon DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 10:10:

Liebe Kathi, ja genau, Diagramme lesen Sie von der unteren Ecke an der rechten Seite, rechts nach links bei jeder Runde - wenn Sie dann später hin und zurück stricken, lesen Sie die Rückreihen links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Dilou 14.04.2018 - 15:09:

Bjr , Mon pull est fini et je constate que sur les motifs des côtés, les lignes ajourées descendent au lieu de monter . Sur la ligne centrale par contre tout est correct. Cela n est pas grave en soi mais ça me chiffonne , car si je veux progresser il faut que je comprenne mon erreur ! Pouvez vous m'aider? Merci pour vos précieux conseils et vos superbes modéles

user icon DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 08:59:

Bonjour Dilou, avez-vous bien suivi les diagrammes comme il faut? soit A.1 (= les jours partent vers la droite), A.2, et A.3 (= les jours partent vers la gauche)? N'hésitez pas à montrer votre ouvrage (même en photo et par mail) à votre magasin DROPS, on pourra fort probablement vous aider. Bon tricot!

country flag Dilou 28.03.2018 - 10:04:

Bonjour , je viens de terminer ce modèle très joli,mais j ai un petit problème :le bas du pull s enroule.Y-a - il une raison à cela, ?aurais je dû faire plus de côtes?Y a t i lun moyen de corrriger ça ? Avez vous un conseil pour eviter que ça se reproduise car j ai déjà eu ce problème.Merci

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2018 kl. 15:53:

Bonjour Dilou, vous pouvez le bloquer: l'humidifier et le faire sécher à plat (avec des épingles si nécessaire). Bon tricot!

country flag Martine 15.02.2018 - 17:42:

På den norske versjonen av summer sky mangler symbolene i forklaringen. Altså, jeg vet ikke hvilket symbol som betyr hva. Hvem av strekene er to rett sammen og hvem av strekene er ta en maske løst av?

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2018 kl. 08:27:

Hei Martine. Usikker på hvorfor du ikke ser dem, alt er fint når jeg sjekker. Om du ikke får lastet alt ned, kommer iallefall diagramteksten her: Blank rute = rett fra retten, vrang fra vrangen. Sort sirkel = vrang fra retten, rett fra vrangen. 2 blanke ruter med en oval sirkel med strekk midt på = mellom 2 masker lages det 1 kast om pinnen. To ruter med strekk fra øvre høyre hjørne og ned til venstre hjørne = strikk 2 rett sammen.To ruter med strekk fra øvre venstre hjørene og ned til høyre hjørne = ta 1 maske løs av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes rett, strikk 1 rett, løft den løse masken over masken som ble strikket. God Fornøyelse.

country flag Dilou 08.02.2018 - 16:19:

Pouvez vous me dire si on peut tricoter les manches avec des aiguilles circulaires plutot que des aiguilles double pointe et si oui quelle dimension de fil faut il prendre ?merci , grâce à vous j avance bien mon modèle ?

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2018 kl. 17:21:

Bonjour Dilou, tout à fait, vous pouvez tricoter les manches en rond avec une aiguille circulaire de 80 cm avec la technique du magic loop. Happy knitting!

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