DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Tea Rose

Knitted DROPS bolero with blackberry pattern and crochet edges in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1275
DROPS design: Pattern no as-055
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
75-100-100-100-125-125 g colour no 06, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts x 21 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm, and 20 sts blackberry pattern = width 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm - for crochet border.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.

To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 52 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 10) = 5.2. I.e. in this example inc in every 5th st.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

When this pattern is worked in the round, RS will be on the inside of piece. Bolero must therefore be turned inside out before beg pattern so that RS is outwards when garment is turned right way again.
ROUND 1: K all sts.
ROUND 2: * Work 3 sts in same st as follows: K 1, P 1, K 1, then P the next 3 sts tog *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 3: K all sts.
ROUND 4: * P 3 tog, then work 3 sts in next st as follows: K 1, P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 1st-4th round.

Worked back and forth on circular needle, then pick up sts for edge and continue piece in the round.

LOOSELY cast on 124-132-142-152-162-172 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. K 1 row from RS, then K 1 row from WS while dec 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts evenly ( K every 4th and 5th st tog) = 100-106-114-122-130-138 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 3-3-4-5-6-7 cm, cast on 6 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for sleeves = 112-118-126-134-142-150 sts on needle. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 37-41-44-47-50-53 cm, cast off 6 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 100-106-114-122-130-138 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 39-43-47-51-55-59 cm, K 1 row from WS while inc 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts evenly (inc after every 4th st) = 124-132-142-152-162-172 sts on row. K 1 row from RS and LOOSELY cast off with K from WS.

Pick up from RS along one sleeve inside 1 edge st in garter st 52-56-60-62-66-68 sts on circular needle size 6 mm. Work pattern back and forth according to diagram A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (1st row = WS). When A.1 is done, K 1 row from RS while inc 10-14-14-16-16-18 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 1 and 2 = 62-70-74-78-82-86 sts. Then work pattern back and forth according to diagram A.2 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (1st row = WS). When entire sleeve edge measures 8 cm - NOTE: Finish after 1st or 3rd row in diagram, work 2 ridges back and forth over all sts before LOOSELY casting off with K from RS. Make the same sleeve edge on the other sleeve.

Sew side and underarm seams in one inside 1 edge st - see dotted line in chart.

Pick up 1 st in every st along entire cast-on and cast-off edge on bolero = 244-260-280-300-320-340 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 is done, K 1 round while inc 28-32-32-36-40-40 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 1 and 2 = 272-292-312-336-360-380 sts. Turn piece inside out to that WS is outwards. Then work BLACKBERRY PATTERN in the round - see explanation above. When edge measures 9 cm from marker - NOTE: Finish after 2nd or 4th round in diagram, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round before LOOSELY casting off with P. Turn piece again so that RS is outwards again.

Work a finishing edge at the bottom around both sleeves and around entire edge along opening on bolero on hook size 5 mm as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in last st). Cut the yarn and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.01.2017
When piece measures 39-43-47-51-55-59 cm, K 1 row from WS while inc 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts evenly...
Updated online: 14.02.2018
under SLEEVE (added a line at the end):
.... Make the same sleeve edge on the other sleeve.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = from RS: K 2 tog, from WS: P 2 tog.
symbols = From WS: P 3 tog.
symbols = From WS: = Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: K 1, P 1, K 1
symbols = how to use the garment

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Christina Wüstner wrote:

Wie kann ich bei dem Bolero einen längeren Ärmel stricken? Danke für ihre Mühe

05.05.2024 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wüstner, am besten wählen Sie ein anderes Modell mit längeren Ärmeln, hier finden Sie einige; Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

06.05.2024 - 08:47

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo, welche Größe sollte ich wählen, wenn ich 44/46 (Deutsche Größe) trage? Sind die Zahlen in der Zeichnung Maßangaben für die Oberweite? Vielen Dank!

31.10.2023 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, alle fertige Maßen finden Sie in der Maßskizze; am besten messen Sie eine ähnliche Kleidung, die Sie gerne haben, und vergleichen Sie mit den in der Maßskizze, so finden Sie die beste passende Grösse. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.10.2023 - 16:17

country flag Marianne Bech wrote:

Jeg har svært ved at se, hvordan man strikker rundt. Hvor begynder man, når alle de mange masker skal tages op?

17.05.2022 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, jo når du har syet stykket sammen i hver side, så du har lavet ærmer, strikker du op langs med hele aflukningskanten og opslåningskanten, det er her du strikker rundt. Se skitserne nederst i opskriften. :)

18.05.2022 - 11:46

country flag Marie-France Goubie wrote:

Bonjour, Vous indiquez qu'il faut retourner l'ouvrage sur l'envers pour faire la bordure astrakan du corps. Je ne comprends pas pourquoi? d'après les photos et les shémas on tient compte de l'endroit ou l'envers pour les points, donc cela devrait ne rien changer? Merci de vos précisions. Cordialement, MF Goubie

08.05.2022 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Goubie, la façon dont le point d'astrakan est tricoté ici se fait sur l'envers (pour obtenir le résultat escompté d'après le diagramme). Tricotez le 1er rang de A.2 sur l'envers du boléro et le 2ème rang sur l'endroit, et ainsi de suite, en commençant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

09.05.2022 - 08:40

country flag Giovanna Rizzi wrote:

Avete dei modelli bellissimi. Vorrei usare i ferri normali anziché i circolari. Come devo regolarmi? Grazie mille purtroppo riprendo i ferri dopo tanti anni

25.01.2022 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giovanna, questo modello è in parte lavorato in tondo e in parte in piano. Buon lavoro!

26.01.2022 - 22:11

country flag Lilas wrote:

Je n'arrive pas à faire la bordure au point d'astrakan. Je ne comprends pas comment "Tourner l'ouvrage sur l'envers (= l'envers doit être maintenant sur l'extérieur)". Avec l'envers à l'extérieur j'ai le fil à gauche ce qui me fait repartir sur la maille que je viens de tricoter (donc un rang pas en rond). En tricotant les mailles de l'intérieur de l'ouvrage, donc avec le fil à droite, et en suivant les 4 tours du point d'astrakan les "boules" sont sur l'envers.

07.03.2021 - 12:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lilas, le point d'astrakan se tricote sur l'envers. Quand vous retournez l'ouvrage sur l'envers, serrez un peu le fil en tricotant la 1ère mailles 3 fois (= 1ère m de A.2), et, si à la fin de ce tour, vous avez un petit trou, relevez le fil entre la dernière maille du tour et la 1ère maille, placez le torse sur l'aiguille gauche et tricotez ce fil ensemble avec les 3 dernières mailles du tour (= 3 m ens à l'envers + ce fil). Bon tricot

08.03.2021 - 09:02

country flag Annette wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, Ich habe Probleme beim Punkt "fertigstellen". Soll einfach in der Mitte der Ärmel zusammengeklappt und dann von der Ärmelblende nach innen vernäht werden? Und wenn ja, wie weit zusammen? Nur bis zum 4 cm "Absatz"? Lg

02.11.2020 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, legen Sie die Arbeit flach wie bei der Maßskizze, jetzt sollen Sie die gestrichte Linien zusammen nähen, beginnen Sie in der Ecke (nach den abgeketteten Maschen oben / vor den angschlagenen Maschen unten) und diese beide gestrichte Linie zusammen nähen (= die Reihen vor den neuen Maschen mit den neuen angeschlagenen Maschen und die abgeketteten Maschen mit den Reihen danach). Viel Spaß beim weiterstricken!

03.11.2020 - 08:35

country flag Lulu wrote:

Hola,disculpa las mangas se tejen en redondo? o se pueden tejer en aguja recta. gracias

16.10.2019 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lulu, las orillas de las mangas se tejen de ida y vuelta de acuerdo al diagrama A.1 con 1 pt de orillo en pt musgo de cada lado. Buen trabajo!

17.10.2019 - 19:21

country flag Alissa wrote:

Maschenprobe Ich habe ein sehr schönes Garn (Baumwoll-Seidemix), aus dem ich gern den Bolero stricken möchte. Dieses Garn ist aber dünner als das in der Anleitung verwendete und um auf die 10 cm der Maschenprobe zu kommen, benötige ich 25 statt 15 Maschen. Wie berücksichtige ich diese Erkenntnis nun bei der Größe bzw. der Maschenanzahl? Ich stehe da grade bissl auf dem Schlauch.... Kann mir vielleicht jemand helfen? Alissa

06.06.2019 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alissa, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2019 - 08:36

country flag Arielle wrote:

Wie funktioniert Muster a 1? Die erste Reite wird in Links und Rechts gestickt? Oder Sind das zwei Reihen eine Links und eine Rechts?

01.06.2019 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Arielle, bei den Ärmeln wird die 1. Reihe in A.1 eine Rückreihe (die Maschen werden von der Vorderseite aufgenommen) = die erste Reihe in A.1 wird rechts gestrickt. Bei dem Rand wird A.1 in Runden gestrickt = die 1. Reihe in A.1 wird hier links gestrickt. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.06.2019 - 09:26