DROPS design: Pattern no x-409
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
600-700-800-900-1000-1100 g color no 02, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

PATTERN-1:
Work A.1 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-4 times vertically.
Work A.4 1 time in total vertically.
Work A.5 1 time in total vertically.
Work A.1 1 time in total vertically.
Work A.5 1 time in total vertically.
Work A.6 1 time in total vertically AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 1 st.

INCREASE TIP:
Always inc from RS. Inc with 1 YO, work YO twisted on next row to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in to pattern.
----------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 83-91-99-107-115-123 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alaska. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work A.1 with 1 st in garter st in each side of piece. Repeat A.1 3 times in total vertically. Work A.2 as follows (first row = WS): 1 st in garter st, A.2 until 2 sts remain (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 times), work first st in A.2 (so make it the same in both sides of piece), finish with 1 st in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3 over A.2 (first row = RS). 1 st in garter st, A.3 until 2 sts remain, work first st of A.3, finish with 1 st in garter st. Work sts in garter st in each side of piece in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Work A.3 until piece measures 20-21-22-22-23-23 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9" (adjust so that last row is from RS). K 1 row from WS. Then work in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side for 7 cm / 2¾'', adjust so that last row is from RS. P 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st = 82-90-98-106-114-122 sts. Work A.7 with 1 st in garter st in each side of piece. Then work PATTERN-1 - see explanation above. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'', bind off 3-3-5-5-7-7 sts in each side for armholes at beg of the 2 next rows. When armholes have been bind off and pattern-1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 77-85-89-97-101-109 sts on needle. Work A.3 until 5-5-1-1-5-5 sts remain, work the first 5-5-1-1-5-5 sts of A.3. Continue pattern until finished measurements. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'', adjust so that next row is from RS, slip the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts on a stitch holder for neck (= 26-30-31-35-36-40 sts remain on each shoulder). Now finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 25-29-30-34-35-39 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 51-53-53-55-57 cm / 20"-21"-21"-21½"-22½", adjust so that next row is from RS, slip the middle 11-11-13-13-15-15 sts on a stitch holder for neck (= 33-37-38-42-43-47 sts remain on each shoulder). Now finish each shoulder separately. Bind off for neck as follows: bind off 2 sts on every row from neck 3 times, then bind off 1 st on every row from neck 2 times = 25-29-30-34-35-39 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth.
Cast on 42-42-42-50-50-50 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alaska. Work 1 ridge. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, A.1 until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st. Work A.1 3 times in total vertically. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work A.2 (first row = WS) 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in total in width with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3 until finished measurements. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP! Work the inc sts in the pattern A.3. Repeat inc every 5-4-3½-4-3½-3 cm / 2"-1½"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1" 8-10-11-9-11-12 more times = 60-64-66-70-74-76 sts. Bind off when piece measures 51-50-50-49-48-47 cm / 20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19"-18½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew left shoulder seam.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Pick up from RS approx. 70 - 85 sts (incl sts on holders) along the neck on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 ridges. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right shoulder seam (includes neck edge). Sew in sleeves. Sew the sides and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.

FRINGES:
Cut 3 strands of approx. 34 cm / 13½'', thread them through the holes (in A.7), tie a LOOSE knot, i.e. knot hangs approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from holes. Insert 1 fringe between every 2 and 2 holes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1235) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag MURIEL MARTIN wrote:

Pour la manche vous marquez 6 fois A2 alors que sur le modèle il n'y est qu'un fois. pourquoi?

01.02.2021 - 12:03:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, on tricote A.2 6 fois au total en largeur (avec 1 maille lisière au point mousse de chaque côté) et une seule fois au total en hauteur. Bon tricot!

01.02.2021 kl. 14:52:

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, "Tricoter ensuite 1 rang end sur l'envers et continuer en jersey avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté pendant 7 cm, ajuster pour que le dernier rang soit sur l'endroit. Tricoter 1 rang env sur l'endroit," Je ne comprends pas, il faut terminer le jersey par un rang ENDROIT, et ensuite tricoter un rang envers, sur l'ENDROIT ??? Merci de votre aide

14.10.2020 - 10:22:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, désolée pour la réponse tardive - vous terminez A.3 par un rang sur l'endroit, au rang suivant = sur l'envers, vous tricotez à l'endroit. Puis, vous continuez en jersey pendant 7 cm. Bon tricot!

24.11.2020 kl. 10:02:

country flag Constantin wrote:

Le grammage ne correspond pas à la taille . Pour un s vous proposez 12 pelotes soit 600g et ca ne suffit pas du tout .j ai tout juste pu tricoter 1 manche le devant avec les points indiqués et pour le dos j ai du faire du jersey. J en suis a 30cm et il ne me reste que 3 pelotes. Donc pas assez pour terminer mon pull et de plus je ne trouve plus le même bain de laine. PS mes mesures et aiguilles correspondent. Pensez à revoir a la hausse le nombre de pelotes

02.10.2019 - 15:17:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Constantin, tricotez-vous bien avec DROPS Alaska? Comme vous pouvez le voir nous n'avons pas encore eu de tel retour sur ce modèle. C'est donc effectivement étrange, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin en lui faisant parvenir une photo de votre ouvrage, pour qu'il puisse nous transmettre toutes ces informations, merci. Bon tricot!

02.10.2019 kl. 16:05:

country flag Francis wrote:

Korrektur: Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht ganz wie a2 in der Hinreihe gestrickt wird. In der Rückreihe hat man das Muster X-Male bis man 2 Maschen hat, die eine Masche strickt wie die erste Masche der Reihe und die letzte wie immer kraus rechts. Die Hinreihe strickt man genauso oder fängt man mit der 1. Masche sozusagen zwei Mal an, sodass es symmetrisch im Muster ist. Bitte um Erklärung der Hinreihe! Liebe Grüße :)

24.08.2017 - 12:08:

country flag Francis wrote:

Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht ganz wie a2 in der Rück-Reihe gestrickt wird. In der Hin-Reihe hat man das Muster X-Male bis man 2 Maschen hat, die eine Masche strickt wie die erste Masche der Reihe und die letzte wie immer kraus rechts. Die Rückreihe strickt man genauso oder fängt man mit der 1. Masche sozusagen zwei Mal an, sodass es symmetrisch im Muster ist. Bitte um Erklärung der Rückreihe! Liebe Grüße :)

24.08.2017 - 12:04:

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Francis, bei der Rückreihe stricken Sie die erste M in A.2 und dann A.2 stricken aber Diagram von links nach rechts bein allen Rückreihen lesen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2017 kl. 13:03:

country flag Bellion Béatrice wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses rapide

05.01.2017 - 16:37:

country flag BELLION wrote:

Bonjour, ok merci de votre réponse rapide ce qui m'a enduit en erreur c'est que pour le dos il est noté tricoter ensuite A2 ( ier rang = sur l'envers) Merci

05.01.2017 - 14:48:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bellion, vous avez raison, le 1er rang de a.2 se fait sur l'envers donc au 3ème rang, on lit également de gauche à droite (= 7 m env, 1 m end), et au 4ème rang, de droite à gauche donc on aura: 2 m env, 5 m end, 1 m env. Bon tricot!

05.01.2017 kl. 16:24:

country flag BELLION wrote:

Bonjour, Je voudrais savoir pour le le diagramme A2 si j'ai bien compris 1er rang = env 2eme rang = end 3eme rang = env c'est là que l'on commence avec le 1er point noir 4eme rang = end on commence avec 2 points noirs mise à part le point mousse du début Cordialement merci

04.01.2017 - 17:00:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bellion, lisez bien les diagrammes en commençant en bas à droite: de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers, ainsi au 3ème rang = sur l'endroit, on aura 1 m env, 7 m end. Au 4ème rang = sur l'envers: 1 m end, 5 m env, 2 m end et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

04.01.2017 kl. 17:29:

country flag Anna Maria wrote:

I diagrammi A6 e A5 dove vanno inseriti? Grazie

15.09.2016 - 00:13:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna Maria. Dopo aver lavorato il diagramma A.7, lavora il motivo-1, come spiegato all'inizio del testo. In questo motivo-1 trova quando lavorare i diagrammi A.5 e A.6. Buon lavoro!

15.09.2016 kl. 07:09:

country flag Netty Schoenmakers wrote:

Ik mis het stukje patroon A4 wat na de A1 komt ? Jullie beginnen weer gewoon met A3 .Wat nu ?

12.07.2016 - 11:35:

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Netty. Nee, je breit alleen A.4 bij het breien van PATROON-1 (1 herhaling van A.4 na de eerste herhalingen van A.1) = Lees bovenaan het patroon. Pas daarna ga je weer A.3 breien.

13.07.2016 kl. 15:56:

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1235

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.