DROPS / 168 / 12

Endless Love by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with double crochet and lace pattern in ”Cotton Merino”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-047
Yarn group B
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
500-600-700 g color no 09, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

Work 1 dc around next ch-space but wait with last pull through, work next dc around next ch-space (do not work 3 ch between dc), on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

CROCHET TIP (applies to sleeve):
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next ch-space (= first ch-space on next round). NOTE: Insert 1 marker at the beg of round between last ch and first dc on the next round, move the marker upwards. NOTE: MAKE SURE NOT TO DISPLACE THE MARKER.

Worked in the round from the middle and outwards.

Work 4 ch with Cotton Merino on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st.
Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 6 repetitions in width) NOTE: A.x shows how every round beg and end, and is in addition to pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When entire A.1 has been worked vertically (= 132 dc), continue as follows: Work * A.2 (= 11 dc), A.3 (= 11 dc) *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total. Work up to and with arrow in diagram - see arrow for your size, there are now 228-252-264 sts on round. Work next round as follows: Continue to work over the first 34-36-38 sts, work 36-40-44 ch, and skip the next 36-40-44 sts (= armhole), work until 70-76-82 sts remain, work 36-40-44 ch and skip the next 36-40-44 sts (= armhole), continue to work over the last 34-36-38 sts. On next round continue according to pattern, work pattern as in diagram around ch-spaces in each side. When A.2 and A.3 have been worked, there are 312 dc on round. Continue with A.4 (= 39 repetitions on round). First round in A.4 shows last round in A.2/A.3, do not work this round. Continue to work as follows: Work * A.5 (= 26 dc), A.6 (= 26 dc) *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total. When A.5/A.6 have been worked, there are 600 sts on round (150 dc with 3 ch between each). Finish size S/M here.

Size M/L -XXL/XXXL: Work 2-4 more rounds as last round in A.5/A.6 = 162-174 dc with 3 ch between.

Piece measures approx. 46-49-52 cm / 18"-19 1/4"-20½" from middle (92-98-104 cm / 36 1/4"-38½"-41" in total).

Work back and forth in the one side with short rows. Cut the yarn, skip the first 13-16-19 dc on round, then work over the next 49 dc + ch-spaces as follows (insert a marker here):
Work ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc around next ch-space, 3 ch (these 2 ch-spaces are no longer worked), 1 dc around next ch-space, work pattern as before until 2 ch-spaces remain (i.e. ch-spaces between dc, do not work around these 2 ch-spaces anymore), turn piece. Continue the short rows like this, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc + 3 sts in the middle ch-space on every row (work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in this space). Continue with inc and dec on every row until piece measures 15 cm / 6'' from marker.

Skip 26-32-38 dc, then work short rows over the next 49 dc (13-16-19 dc remain on round). Work the same way as in the other side.

Work an edge around the entire circle as follows: 1 sc around first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Worked in the round, top down. Beg mid under one armhole, work 1 sc around first ch-space, 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), skip first dc and work 1 dc around next ch-space, * ch 3, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round (work 1 dc + 3 ch around dc in corners), finish round with 1 dc around first ch 6, then continue to work in the round without finishing it – READ CROCHET TIP = 21-23-25 dc + 21-23-25 ch-spaces.

Continue with 1 dc + 3 ch around every space. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 ch-space before marker - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4½ cm / 1 3/4" 7 more times, dec alternately before and after marker = 13-15-17 dc + 13-15-17 ch-spaces. Continue until piece measures 42-43-44 cm / 16½"-17"-17 1/4".

Crochet an edge around the sleeves as follows: 1 sc around first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 sc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st
= ch 1
= 1 dc around st
= 1 dc in dc
= Work 3 dc into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work 2 dc more the same way (= 4 loops on hook) but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= Work 2 dc into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= beg round with ch 3, and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round
= Work sl sts until first ch/ch-space. Replace first dc on this round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
= work armholes after this round

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

Sándor Veronika 24.11.2020 - 20:41:

Üdv! Az S/M-es méretet készítem, és a karöltő kialakítás előtt 228 szemem van a körben. Elkezdem a kört, 34 szemen horgolom a mintát a 8. körben, majd 36 lszt horgolok, és kihagyom a 36 lszt, majd leszúrok, és folytatom a horgolást tovább 70 szemen. Utána ismét 36 lszt horgolok, kihagyok 36 szemet, majd leszúrok, és a leírás szerint a maradék 34 szemen folytatom a horgolást. Viszont nekem nem 34, hanem 51 szemem maradt a kör végéig. Hol ronthattam el?

Sylvia 24.10.2020 - 13:00:

En el frente dice que debo continuar con aumentos y disminuciones en cada hilera hasta que la pieza mida 15 cm a partir del marcapuntos. Eso significa que en cada hilera, al dejar de trabajar 2 arcos de cad (disminución), y aumentar 1 p.a. + 3 pts en el arco de cad central en cada hilera, tendré un arco menos? De ser asi no llegaré a los 15 cm porque la pieza en lugar de quedar como en el dibujo está quedando con punta en el centro y mas plana en al inicio y final ... ¿es correcto?

Lorena 18.10.2020 - 04:40:

No entiendo las instrucciones del FRENTE. Ayúdenme por favor, cuáles son 13 p.a. (talla s) que debo saltar? Y cuáles son los 49 p.a. que debo trabajar .... desde donde se cuentan? Que tramo del frente es el que se debe tejer?

DROPS Design 20.11.2020 kl. 23:58:

Hola Lorena, al trabajar la espalda en redondo, has colocado 1 MP al inicio de la vuelta. Este marcapuntos lo tienes que ir subiendo cada vuelta según se avanza la labor. Para trabajar el delantero, tienes que saltar los 13 primeros p.a desde el MP y trabajar los siguientes 49.

Lorena 07.10.2020 - 20:40:

Hola, estoy tejiendo talla S, y llegue a las sisas pero no entiendo con que punto se trabaja esa hilera: "... trabajar sobre los primeros 34 pts, trabajar 36 cad, y saltar los 36 pts siguientes (= sisa), trabajar hasta que resten 70 pts, trabajar 36 cad y saltar los 36 pts siguientes (= sisa), continuar a trabajar sobre los últimos 34 pts.".

DROPS Design 21.11.2020 kl. 18:40:

Hola Lorena. Estos puntos se trabajan como puntos altos.

Silvi 10.07.2020 - 05:32:

Hallo liebe Häklerinnen, es hakt bei mir an zwei Stellen. 1. Im Rückenteil fehlen mir 48 Maschen. Wenn ich A.2 und A.3 fertig habe, sind es nur 264 statt der gewünschten 312. Woher sollten die Maschen kommen? 2. Wo setze ich die Vorderteile an? Vielen Dank und noch einen wunderschönen Tag. LG Sivi

DROPS Design 10.07.2020 kl. 08:12:

Liebe Silvi, Sie häkeln 6 Mal in der Runde (A.2, A.3), bei der ersten Runde haben Sie (A.2 = 11 M, A.3 = 11 M ) x 6 = 132 M. Wenn die Diagramme fertig sind haben Sie(A.2 = 16 M, A.3 = 36)x6= 312 Maschen. Vorderteil werden wie unter VORDERTEIL verteilt und gehäkelt (wenn Sie die Jacke doppelt falten, dann sollen die Armlöcher übereinander sein). Siehe auch die Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Agnes Pinard 25.02.2020 - 17:15:

Comment effacer un ou des modèles parmi mes favoris ? Merci Agnes Pinard

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 09:12:

Bonjour Mme Pinard, rendez-vous dans vos favoris dans un premier temps et dans la liste de vos favoris, cliquez sur la petite croix en haut à droite de la photo. Bonne continuation!

Lilian Jacoby 18.12.2018 - 14:53:

I continue on the diagrams until no. 3 where I had to count the 38 stitches and crochet 44 stitches for the arms. According to the pattern I must continue with diagram. What concerns me however is the stitches does not increase and what must be crochet in the 44 stiches of the arm holes.

DROPS Design 19.12.2018 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Jacoby, you skip 38 sts for the armhole and replace these 38 sts with 44 chains. On next row, crochet in the 44 chains as if you wouldn't have skip a row there, ie crochet next row as all around the circle = same row in A.2 and A.3 as all around the circle increasing on same places around . Happy crocheting!

Melanie Coleman 18.12.2018 - 01:50:

Bonjour. Je suis rendu à la partie rangs de raccourcis je ne comprends pas comment le faire et combien de rangs. Merci

DROPS Design 18.12.2018 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Mme Coleman, les rangs raccourcis se crochètent comme décrit: vous commencez par 2 arceaux (qui ne seront pas crochetés à la fin du rang suivant), continuez comme avant juqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 arceaux, tournez et répétez ce rang, en même temps, vous augmentez au milieu de chaque rang. Le nombre de rangs va dépendre de votre tension, vous devez continuer ainsi pendant 15 cm depuis le marqueur. Bon crochet!

Ana M. 06.12.2018 - 01:19:

Estoy intentando trabajar el frente (tallas/m). Si salto 13 puntos altos, trabajo 49, salto 26 , trabajo de nuevo 49...al final me quedan 26 puntos altos entre los dos frentes. ¿es eso correcto? En el patrón dice que son 13 , pero entonces la suma de puntos altos no hace 150. ¿no debería haber menos puntos entre delanteros en la parte superior que en la inferior?

DROPS Design 30.12.2018 kl. 20:06:

Hola Ana. El patrón es correcto. Para la talla S : 150 pts - 13 - 49 - 26 - 49 = 13 pts.

Ana 04.12.2018 - 13:02:

Estoy intentando trabajar el frente pero no entiendo nada de las explicaciones, y llevo días intentándolo. ¿No hay ningún vídeo?

DROPS Design 30.12.2018 kl. 16:12:

Hola Ana. Todos los vídeos sobre este patrón los puedes encontrar en la parte izquierda de la pantalla al lado del patrón.

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