DROPS / 168 / 13

Sky Love by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, v-neck,
  • Sky Love / DROPS 168-13 - Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Sky Love / DROPS 168-13 - Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Sky Love / DROPS 168-13 - Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no w-593
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M – M/L – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
450-450-500-550 g, color no 02, light turquoise

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 8.5 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Beg every sc row with 1 ch (replaces first sc).
Beg every dc row with 3 ch (replaces first dc).
Beg every tr row with 4 ch (replaces first tr).

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

Piece is worked as 2 scarfs and then sewn tog into a poncho.

Work 77-85-93-101 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in the next ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 57-63-69-75 dc. Work 1 sc in every dc (= WS) – read CROCHET INFO = 57-63-69-75 sc. Then work as follows: A.4 over the first 4 sc, A.1 over the next 4 sc, A.2 over the next 36-42-48-54 sc (= 6-7-8-9 times in width), A.3 over the next 9 sc, finish with A.5 over the last 4 sc. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Work until piece measures 65-71-77-84 cm / 25½"-28"-30½"-33", finish on a row in diagram worked with dc, fasten off.

Work another part the same way.

Place bind-off edge on 1st part towards right long side on 2nd part - at the bottom towards cast-on edge and 41-45-49-54 cm / 16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21 1/4" upwards – make sure not to stretch the piece too much. Sew the 2 parts tog with neat little stitches. Then sew bind-off edge on 2nd part to right side on 1st part the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sc in st
symbols = dc in st
symbols = ch
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = 1 bobble with 4 tr: Work 1 tr in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
symbols = tr in st
symbols = first row is explained in pattern
symbols = 1 sc around ch
symbols = 2 dc in same st
symbols = 7 dc in same ch

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag GLADYS 10.08.2021 - 20:57:


country flag Sandra Hoffmann-Klein 19.03.2021 - 14:52:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich wollte diesen Poncho in Größe L häkeln und habe wie beschreiben 69 Stäbchen in die Luftmaschenkette mit Nadelstärke 5 gehäkelt. Diese hat eine Länge von ca. 65 cm. Kann das sein? Eigentlich müßte sie ja laut Zeichnung 49 cm lang sein, oder?

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 15:29:

Liebe Frau Hoffmann-Klein, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Mit 14 Stäbchen = 10 cm, sollten Sie 49 cm mit 69 Stäbchen haben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Anna Plummer 18.05.2020 - 08:37:

Why is there no crochet gauge given for Drops yarns? There's a huge difference between knitting & crochet gauge, especially the rows. I did a swatch for Paris, and I was off by 8 rows, and # of rows should not not change much, not like horizontal sts do. I compared to 3 yarns from other brands, my gauge was perfect. I want to use Paris, though. but I can't find any crochet gauge. Thank You!

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Plummer, gauge will change depending on the fabric required, you will find the matching tension in each pattern, for example here you need 14 dc x 8.5 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm) - read more about tension here. Happy crocheting!

country flag Ada 21.03.2020 - 14:41:

Goedemiddag, ben de poncho in maat M/L aan het maken. Nu bij de 3e herhaling t/m toer 7 en ben 67 cm hoog (dus bijna bij de 71 cm). Zag dat je in ieder geval bij een toer met stokjes moet stoppen. 2 vragen: 1. Ik neem aan dat dit ook halverwege het patroon kan? 2. Maakt het nog uit of dit dan toer 12 of 13 is? Alvast bedankt voor de reactie. Groet, Ada

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 16:53:

Dag Ada,

Ja hoor, dit kan halverwege het patroon en toer 12 of 13 maakt ook niet uit want het zijn beide toeren met stokjes.

country flag Cathie 08.03.2020 - 03:40:

I have been crocheting for 50 years. I do not know how to read a diagram. I only use written instructions. However, I have no clue what you are talking about after the 2nd row. What is A.4 over the next 4 stitches, etc? What is the A. ? Help please. I am so lost!

user icon DROPS Design 08.03.2020 kl. 22:56:

Dear Cathie, it is well worth the time and effort to figure out how to read pattern diagrams, because they not only tell you what to do at the very next step, but also show you how the stitches AND the rows relate to each other. In this case pattern A.4 shows you the trebles stitches at the right of the diagram. HERE you can find a lesson on how to read crochet diagrams, and do not forget, that you can always ask for help (in person or over teh phone) for help in the store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

country flag Imelda Parra Suarez 14.11.2019 - 21:03:

Quisiera elaborar el poncho con patron de calados en Paris pero no entiendo las abreviasiones que colocan me gustaría algo más claro o una fotografia donde se observe claramente las puntadas. Muchas gracias por su atención quedo atenta.

user icon DROPS Design 17.11.2019 kl. 19:34:

Hola Imelda. No disponemos de más fotos que las que están publicadas de este modelo. Tienes bajo el patrón varios vídeos explicativos y el diccionario de abreviaturas está en este link https://www.garnstudio.com/dictionary.php?lang=es

country flag Phoebe Musa 15.10.2019 - 10:15:

Kindly give us the pattern in writing, diagrams are kind of confusing

user icon DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 10:25:

Dear Mrs Musa, when there are only diagrams in a pattern, such as this one for example, you will find help with crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

country flag Birgitta 26.08.2019 - 11:08:

Hej. Jag skulle vilja veta bredden på "halsduken". Mvh Birgitta

user icon DROPS Design 27.08.2019 kl. 08:15:

Hej. Du hittar alla mått i de olika storlekarna på måttskissen längst ner på mönstret. Lycka till!

country flag SAROJ 23.07.2019 - 11:20:

Hi there Is there any way I can get this pattern fully written out, I get extremely confused reading a diagram. Please assist.

user icon DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:45:

Dear Mrs Saroj, there are only diagrams to this pattern but you will find here how to read crochet diagrams, should you need any further assistance reading diagrams, feel free to contact your DROPS store even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

country flag Carrie 14.06.2019 - 02:57:

Hello again! I’m just about to finish the first part of the diagram. When starting the diagram again, to get the length, do I start with the rows of single crochets at the very bottom, or do I start with the second row of 3 dc, chain 3 on top of the top most row of dc? Thank you! I think I’m going to like diagrams much better than the US way of writing every line out! :)

user icon DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 07:27:

Dear Carrie, when repeating the diagrams in height, start from 2nd row in diagram, ie skip the single crochets row from the very bottom. Happy crocheting!

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