Spring Daze by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket with triangles and fringes in ”Paris”.

Keywords: blanket, floral, patchwork
DROPS 170-17
DROPS design: Pattern no w-595
Yarn group C or A + A
Measurements (without fringes in every tip): Width: 93 cm / 36½'' Length: 130 cm / 51½''
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
650 g colour no 17, off white
250 g colour no 41, mustard
200 g colour no 35, vanilla
100 g colour no 01, apricot
100 g colour no 38, raspberry
100 g colour no 07, heather
50 g colour no 27, peach
50 g colour no 37 rusty red
NOTE: Blanket worked with one color = 1400 g Paris.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). Each of the outer sides on triangle measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4''.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Diagrams A.1 and A.2 (A.2 shows how A.1 beg and ends). A.3 shows how crochet triangles are placed when assembled.

Work pattern according to diagram A.1. A.2 shows how diagram beg and ends. Work crochet triangles on each of the 5 colors explained below. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Work 12 triangles.
Cast on + round 1 and 2: peach.
Round 3 and 4: off white
Round 5: mustard.

Work 16 triangles.
Cast on + round 1 and 2: apricot.
Round 3 and 4: off white
Round 5: mustard.

Work 16 triangles.
Cast on + round 1 and 2: raspberry.
Round 3 and 4: off white
Round 5: mustard.

Work 16 triangles.
Cast on + round 1 and 2: heather.
Round 3 and 4: off white
Round 5: mustard.

Work 12 triangles.
Cast on + round 1 and 2: rusty red.
Round 3 and 4: off white
Round 5: mustard.

Place triangles as shown in diagram A.3. No 1-5 shows where the different colors should be.
First work triangles tog into 4 strips (see brackets A, B, C and D) as follows: NOTE: It might be wise to fasten the triangles temporarily by tying them tog with a strand a yarn, so that they do not move too much when assembling.
Place the 2 triangles with color 5 with wrong sides tog and work them tog with vanilla on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7. * Work 1 sc through outermost sc in both triangles (i.e. in both layers) in each of the 27 sc on one side of crochet triangle, work 4 ch in transition for the next 2 triangles that are worked tog (i.e. color 4) *, repeat from *-* 4 more times (now work over triangles with color 3, 2 and 1 - see diagram) but finish last time before the ch 4, fasten off.
Repeat the same way on the remaining strips (brackets B, C and D).
Then place the 4 strips next to each other as shown in A.3 (fasten triangles temporarily tog as explained above). Then work triangles tog diagonally the same way by working 1 sc through both triangles in each of the outermost 27 sc on one side of every triangle. Work 4 ch in transition between every triangle. Arrows show how blanket are worked tog from one side. Then work diagonally the same way from the other side. Fasten off.

Work 1 edge with vanilla on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 around the blanket as follows: Beg in top between 2 triangles and work (1 sc, ch 3, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½''). NOTE: Work 1 sc around ch-space at the edge in each corner and work 3 ch in transition between the 2 triangles in each tip. In transition between each of brackets A, B, C and D (= where the tip on 4 triangles meet) and in transition between triangles on short side of blanket, work 3 ch and 1 sc around each of the ch-spaces in corners. Finish with round ch 3, 1 sl st in first sc on round. Fasten off.

Insert a large fringe in each of the 4 tips in each long side on blanket.
1 large fringe = 8 strands vanilla of approx. 20 cm / 8''. Fold the strands double, thread the loop through ch-space in outer edge worked and pull the strand ends through the loop (so that 16 strands hang down in every fringe).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = beg round with ch 1, and finish round 1 sl st in 1st ch on round
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 sc around ch-space
symbols = beg round with ch 3, and finish round 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = beg round with ch 5, and finish round 1 sl st in 5th ch on round
symbols = 1 dtr in st
symbols = Work ch 5, work 3 dtr tog as follows: Work 1 dtr around next ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), * work 1 dtr more around the same ch-space but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 4 sts on hook) but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook, work 5 ch.
symbols = round beg here
symbols = arrow shows how blanket is worked tog - see explanation in pattern.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Nellie wrote:

Ik begrijp niet helemaal hoe ik de driehoeken aan elkaar moet maken. Ben begonnen met kleur 5. Dan 4 lossen naar de volgende kleur. Dan kom ik weer onderaan of aan de zijkant. Hoe kan ik dan de instructie 4 keer herhalen? En hoe worden de vier secties uiteindelijk aan elkaar gezet? Het lijjt erg ingewikkeld, maar misschien doe ik iets fout. Graag uw hulp en instructies. Dank u

09.11.2018 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nellie,

Je begint links bovenaan in het schema en haakt eerst de 2 driehoeken met kleurcombinatie 5 aan elkaar, dan haak je 4 lossen en ga je verder met het aan elkaar haken van de 2 driehoeken met kleurcombinatie 4, dan weer 4 lossen en dan driehoek 3 plus 3, enzovoort.

11.11.2018 kl. 12:59

country flag Crystal wrote:

Hi could you help explain the assembly instructions? Do I start with the two color 5 triangles at the very top of column A, or go down the left side of column A and then back up? How do the ch 4’s connect across? Should it be one long seam somehow for all of column A or do you finish and pick up somewhere? I’m having a hard time visualizing the instructions. Thank you for your help!

25.09.2018 - 07:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Crystal, you first assembly the triangles together top down starting with the 2 triangles colour-5 at the top of each section A then the next 2 triangles colour-4, then the next 2 triangles colour-3 etc. Repeat in each colum B C and D the same way. Then crochet the triangles tog diagonally following the arrows - and then crochet them tog along the last diagonal (from the left twoards the top right). Happy assembly!

25.09.2018 kl. 10:16

country flag Liz wrote:

I think there is a mistake in the chart key (Diagram explanations). The explanation shows a symbol with two bars and translates it as "1 triple treble in st" (UK). However, that symbol does not appear in the chart. Instead, in Rnd 3, there is a symbol with 3 bars. This is shown to be "1 triple treble in st" (UK) in the video. The symbol in the key should have three bars, so that it matches the chart. I checked and this inconsistency is also present in the original Norwegian version.

09.06.2018 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Liz, thanks for your feedback, diagram key will be edited as soon as possible. Happy crocheting!

11.06.2018 kl. 08:46

country flag Claudia wrote:

Fortsetzung: Ich habe jetzt mit 4,5 gehäkelt und mein Dreieck hat natürlich nicht die angegebenen Außenkanten von ca 17 cm, sondern von ca 22cm. Dabei reicht die Wolle nicht und ich müsste nachbestellen, was ich sehr ärgerlich finde. Ich bitte doch sehr, das mal zu überprüfen. Vielen Dank.

27.08.2016 - 19:29

country flag Claudia wrote:

Die angaben stimmen tatsächlichg nicht. In Ihrr anleitung bei Maschenprobe steht 10x 10 cm = 16 Stb und 9 Reihen, bei Nadel4,5. wenn man das gehäkelt hat, weiß man, dass das nicht stimmt. Auf der Wolle steht 10x10 cm= 17 stiches( nicht Stäbchen!) und 22 Reihen, bei Nadel 5. erstens sind das sehr unterschiedliche Angaben und zweitens haut auch die Angabe auf der Wolle nicht hin.

27.08.2016 - 19:26

country flag Claudia wrote:

Liebes Team, ich bin ratlos. Bei Stärke 4,5 häkel ich 16 Stb. plus Wendemaschen: das ergibt in der Breite nie und nimmer 10 cm. Es sind 14 cm. Ich häkel normal - nicht extrem locker, probiert es doch bitte aus oder sagt mir, was ich falsch verstanden habe. Ich häkel nicht zum ersten Mal. Vielen Dank für die Antwort im Voraus!

26.08.2016 - 11:05

country flag Claudia wrote:

An meine Frage schjließt sich dann noch die Frage an, ob beim Zusammenhäkeln die gleiche Nadelstärke benutzt (2,5) wird oder die in der Anleitung angegebene. Und nochmal, ist bei der Maschenprobe die Nadelstärke falsch angegeben, die Maschenzahl oder die cm Zahl? Und reicht bei anderer Nadelstärke denn dann die Wollmenge aus? Hab jetzt schon bestellt und es wäre ärgerlich, wenn ich nachbestellen müsste. Gruß und Danke für Antwort

24.08.2016 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Claudia, es ist weder die Nadelstärke noch die Maschenprobe falsch angegeben, für Paris ist Nadelstärke 4,5 mit 16 Maschen au 10 cm das übliche Mass. Beim Zusammenhäkeln wird die gleiche Nadelstärke benutzt.

25.08.2016 kl. 18:10

country flag Claudia wrote:

Liebes Team, in der Anleitung ist Nadelstärke 4,5 angegeben. wenn ich die angegebene Maschenprobe mit 4,5 mache ist das Stück viel zu groß. Bei Nadelstärke 2,5 bekomme ich das 10x10 cm Stück. Wie soll ich mir den eklatanten Unterschied erklären und was ist nun flasch in Euer anleitung, die Nadelstärke oder die Maschenzahl(16 Stb)?

23.08.2016 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe oben.

25.08.2016 kl. 18:10

country flag Natalie wrote:

I'd like to make this in just two colours, with off-white for the background and joining rows (ie the vanilla lines) and pink for the flowers and borders (mustard in the pattern). How much yarn would I need in each of off-white and pink?

02.02.2016 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Natalie, we are not able to adjust all our patterns to each individual request, but your DROPS store may then help you to calculate amount of yarn with the colours you'd like to use. Happy crocheting!

03.02.2016 kl. 09:01

country flag BRENDA GREGG SWAGGERTY wrote:


29.01.2016 - 14:37

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