DROPS / 168 / 28

Morning at Home by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in double seed st with raglan in ”Belle”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no vs-022
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-500-500-550-600-700 g color no 15, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st with Belle = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 621: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.15 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.15 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

DOUBLE SEED ST:
Row 1: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: P over K and K over P.
Row 4: As 2nd row.
Repeat row 1 to 4.

INCREASE TIP RAGLAN:
Inc 16 sts as follows:
Inc 2 sts after first marker, 2 sts on each side of second, third and fourth marker and 2 sts before fifth marker.
INC AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER:
Beg 2 sts before marker:
K 2 sts in first st, 1 YO, K 1, marker.
INC AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER: marker, K 1, 1 YO and K 2 sts in next st.
On next round P the YOs to make holes.

Inc 8 sts as follows:
Inc 1 st after first marker, 1 st on each side of second, third and fourth marker and 1 st before fifth marker.
INC AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER:
Beg one st before marker:
1 YO, K 1, marker.
INC AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER: marker, K 1, 1 YO.
On next round P the YO to make a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for button band on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 2, 6, 10 and 13 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4, 5 1/8"
SIZE M: 2, 6, 10 and 14 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4, 5½''
SIZE L: 2, 6, 10 and 15 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4, 6''
SIZE XL: 2, 6, 10 and 16 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4, 6 1/4"
SIZE XXL: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/4", 6 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 7, 12 and 18 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/4", 7"
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 104-108-116-120-124-132 sts (includes 4 sts in each side for button band) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS while at the same time inc 8-12-16-24-36-44 sts evenly - NOTE: K the outermost 4 sts in each side towards mid front and do not inc over these sts (= band sts) = 112-120-132-144-160-176 sts on needle. Piece beg in left side, between sleeve and front piece. Insert 5 markers in the piece as follows (from WS): K 4 (= band sts), insert 1 marker, P 36-40-46-52-60-68 (= front piece), insert 1 marker, P 16 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker, P 38-42-48-54-62-70 (= back piece), insert 1 marker, P 14 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker, and finish with K 4 (= band sts). Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Then work DOUBLE SEED ST over sts on front piece and back piece, work sts on sleeves in stockinette st. Continue bands in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME inc for RAGLAN - READ INCREASE TIP.
Inc every other row (= every row from RS) as follows: Inc 16 st 2-2-3-4-4-5 time, then inc 8 sts 19-21-21-21-23-23 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE After all inc for raglan there are 296-320-348-376-408-440 sts on row and piece measures approx. 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' from cast-on edge. Work next row as follows from WS: bind off the first 2 sts on needle, work 84-92-102-112-124-136 sts (= front piece), slip the next 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), slip the next 84-92-102-112-124-136 sts on 1 stitch holder (= back piece), slip the next 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), bind off the last 2 sts.

FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
= 84-92-102-112-124-136 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue with double seed st, on the first 2 rows cast on 4 new sts in each side = 92-100-110-120-132-144 sts. Continue with double seed st with 4 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'', work 2 ridges over all sts, then bind off.

BACK PIECE:
Slip the 84-92-102-112-124-136 sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, work as front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and cast on 8 sts under sleeve = 70-74-78-82-86-90 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8 new sts cast on. Continue in stockinette st, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' dec 1 st on each side of marker, repeat dec every 2½-2½-2-2-2-2 cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" 14-15-16-17-18-19 more times = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-47-47 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-18½"-18½", work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above!
Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Place the 4 sts in button band from sleeve under the 4 sts from front piece and fasten. Sew side seams in outermost st of edge st but leave 16 cm / 6 1/4'' at the bottom = vents. Sew the buttons on to button band from left sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Franziska 27.02.2020 - 17:02:

Kann ich den Pullover auch ohne Knopfleiste stricken (beide Seiten wie rechts), oder ist er dann zu eng zum anziehen?

DROPS Design 28.02.2020 kl. 07:41:

Liebe Franziska, wahrscheinlich können Sie diesen Pullover so anpassen - hier können Sie andere top down gestrickte Pullover (mit 21 M = 10 M) finden und vergleichen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Waveney Croft 01.01.2020 - 17:42:

I want to knit this pattern for my daughter, but she is extremely petite: I think approx 80cm bust. Do you have any suggestions? Would the small size be way too big on her? Would it be problematic if I cast on fewer stitches for the body of the sweater?

DROPS Design 01.01.2020 kl. 21:48:

Dear Waveney, this sweater is designed with a bit of positive ease, so it should sit somewaht loose on the wearere. You can find the measurements of the finished sweater on the schematics drawing at the bottom of the page. We usually suggest that you take a swetaer that is comfortable (and possibly similar style) and compare the measurements. Happy Knitting!

Gladys Malcomson 26.10.2019 - 18:23:

Just started this pattern. Can you please explain why the two sleeves have a different number of stitches, i.e. 16 and 14, and the back and front are different, 36 and 38, when placing the stitch markers at beginning of yoke.

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 01:45:

Dear Gladys, the difference is due to the buttonband, which is added to the left shoulder. Happy Knitting!

Päivi Anttila 28.07.2019 - 10:36:

Kaunis malli ja lanka tekee pinnasta elävän ja nätin

Päivi Anttila 28.07.2019 - 10:35:

Hei. Aloitin kokoa xl. Miten hihojen silmukat eroavat kahdella silmukalla?

Donna Hale 12.10.2017 - 03:27:

Hello I have just started the Morning at Home sweater. I am knitting the large size and after the first increase I have 132 stitches on the needle. When I piece for the next step, the pieces are 4, 46, 16, 48, 14, 4 which adds to 134 stitches. Please explain. Thank you

DROPS Design 12.10.2017 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Hale, 4 + 46 + 16 + 48 + 14 + 4 = 132. Happy knitting!

Sarah 02.01.2017 - 16:31:

Just wondering how to do increases in yoke when the front and back are supposed to be in double seed st. The increases will give 4 knit sts in a row, which will mess up the k2p2 pattern of the double seed st. Please advise.

DROPS Design 02.01.2017 kl. 17:00:

Dear Sarah, the increases have to be worked in double moss stitch on the body, double moss stitch shouldn't be displaced and new sts will be worked continuously following the pattern. Happy knitting!

Anja Simonsen 13.10.2016 - 21:02:

Jeg skal strikke 4 ret som kantmasker i hver side - når jeg har lavet overdelen skal jeg lukke 2 masker af i hver side - hvad skal jeg med de sidste 2 masker i hver side? Altså har jeg 4 masker i overskud - skal jeg bare putte dem på henholdsvis det ene ærme og forstykket eller hvad? vh Anja Simonsen

DROPS Design 29.03.2017 kl. 15:20:

Hej Anja, De er talt med i de 84-92-102-112-124-136 m du har til forstykket og i de 62-66-70-74-78-82 m du har til ærmet. God fornøjelse!

Martha Klein 28.06.2016 - 07:18:

After increasing to 320 sts, the next row says to work the front piece, then slip three different sections to three different holders, then bind off 2 sts. Do you work the sts first before slipping them to the holders or not? If you work the sts, the live yarn is on the end away from the section to be worked. I you don't work the sts, how do you bind off the two at the end of the row? I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks.

DROPS Design 28.06.2016 kl. 08:35:

Dear Mrs Klein, when there are 320 sts cast off the first 2 sts, then work the next 92 sts (= front piece) and keep them on needle, work the next 66 sts and slip them on a st holder (= 1st sleeve), work the next 92 sts (= back piece) and slip them on a st holder, work the next 66 sts and slip them on a st holder (= 2nd sleeve), cast off the last 2 sts = 92 sts on needle for front piece. Each piece will be now worked separately, starting with front piece. Happy knitting!

Kerstin Bergen 12.06.2016 - 21:59:

Liebes DROPS-Team, eine tolle Anleitung und ein leicht zu strickender Pullover. Es hat mir sehr viel Spaß gemacht, und ich konnte die Arbeit immer nur schwer weglegen. Das DROPS Belle ist ein sehr schönes Garn, was sich gut verstricken lässt. Da ich sehr fest stricke, musste ich die Nadelstärke 5 nehmen, und das war perfekt.

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