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My Girl by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat with lace pattern in "Bomull-Lin" or "Paris".

Keywords: hat, headwear, lace, summer hat

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DROPS 167-8
DROPS design: Pattern no l-141
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 54/58 cm / 21/22 3/4"
Materials:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
150 g color no 11, beige
50 g color no 05 brown
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g color no 26, dark beige
50 g color no 44 brown

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 18 sc/hdc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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53% Cotton, 47% Linen 		from 3.45 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work diagram 5 times in total on round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first hdc at beg of every hdc round with 2 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Crochet 5 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with beige/dark beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 11 hdc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): Work 1 sc in every hdc.
ROUND 3: Work 2 hdc in every sc = 22 hdc.
ROUND 5: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 33 hdc.
ROUND 7: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 44 hdc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 9: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 55 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 66 hdc.
ROUND 13: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 77 hdc.
ROUND 15: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 hdc.
ROUND 17: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 43 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 90 hdc.
Continue every other round with 1 sc in every hdc and 1 hdc in every sc. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'' from the top, adjust so that last round is with sc. Work brim.

BRIM:
Now work A.1 as follows (repeat A.1 5 times in total on round):
ROUND 1: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work ch 2, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc*, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round = 90 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work * 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 13 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc in each of the next 3 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 110 sc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 110 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 3 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 11 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 130 sc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first 6 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 130 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 6 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150 sc.
ROUND 7: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 9 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 10 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 sc in each of the first 9 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 160 sc.
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first 12 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 12 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 12 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 13 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 170 sc.
ROUND 11: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 16 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 15 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 165 hdc and 5 ch-spaces.
ROUND 12: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 16 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 16 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 175 sc.
ROUND 13: Work 1 hdc in every sc = 175 hdc. Fasten off.

PLAITED STRING:
Make a plait with 3 twined strings. Make 1 twined string as follows: Cut 2 lengths brown yarn of 8 metres/8½ yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot in each end of the string. Make another 2 strings the same way. Make 1 plait of the 3 twined strings. Tie a knot approx. 4 cm / 1½'' from each end. Twirl the plait 2 times around hat and tie a knot.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.07.2016
BRIM:
Now work A.1 as follows (repeat A.1 5 times in total on round):
ROUND 1: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work ch 2, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc*, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round = 90 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 2
symbols = sc in hdc
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = hdc in sc
symbols = hdc in sc (skip this hdc on next round)
symbols = beg round with 2 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch
symbols = last round on hat, round has already been worked
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Karen Anna Nilsen wrote:

Hva menes med halvstav i første/neste maske er det både foran og bak skråstrek det blir jo altfor mange masker pr.omgang. På forhånd takk for svar

14.07.2022 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karen, Nei, instruksen dekker flere gjentagelser (den første gang du strikker er det i 'første' masken, neste gang er det i 'neste' masken). Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

15.07.2022 kl. 06:54

country flag Nadine wrote:

The start of this pattern is so confusing :(( It would have been much clearer if the crochet information was integrated into the "hat" pattern. Thanks for a beautiful hat though.

24.04.2022 - 14:50

country flag Åsa Voilås wrote:

Kan hatten stives? I tilfelle hva anbefales?

12.04.2022 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åse, Ja hatten kan stives. Da anbefaler vi at du dypper hatten i sukkervann eller fargeløs brus, former hatten slik du ønsker den og lar den tørke. God fornøyelse!

13.04.2022 kl. 08:58

country flag Helen Goddard wrote:

I'm making sun hat 167-8. Maybe I'm being dim but on which rows do I change colour?

22.12.2021 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Helen! Brown yarn is for plaited string. Hope it helps!

23.12.2021 kl. 23:27

country flag Uli Oswald wrote:

Liebes Dropsteam, was kann ich tun,dass die Krempe nach oben geht

04.08.2021 - 06:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Oswald, Sie können einen Stahldraht anhäkeln (siehe dieses Video ) oder die Krempe etwas steifen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.08.2021 kl. 07:57

country flag Gitte Glistrup wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om ret og vrang siden. Hvilken vej vender hattens puld (spidsen af hatten), når jeg hækler? Vender den opad eller nedad?

14.06.2021 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte, den side du hækler fra er normalt retsiden. Men vælg den side du synes er pænest :)

15.06.2021 kl. 15:52

country flag Nienke wrote:

Hoe zorg je ervoor dat de rand omhoog blijft staan. Haken jullie ijzerdraad mee of verstevigen jullie de rand met stijfsel of zoiets ?

04.06.2021 - 07:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nienke,

Je kan inderdaad een ijzerdraad meehaken in een van de laatste toeren van de rand. Een andere manier is om de rand van de hoed ik suikerwater te leggen en daarna plat te laten drogen. In dat laatste geval is de rand wel plat, als je hem een beetje om wilt buigen moet je dat even in de gaten houden tijdens het drogen. Of je combineert bovenstaande opties.

11.06.2021 kl. 12:43

country flag Nanda wrote:

Met de 90 steken lijkt de omvang ongeveer 18 steken (13-15 cm) te groot voor de omvang van mijn hoofd 55CM ongeveer. ondanks dat ik met naald 3.5 haak hoe kan ik de rand aanpassen op 66 of 77 steken? of moet hij zo wijd uitvallen?

02.06.2021 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nanda,

Heb je de stekenverhouding gecontroleerd? Bij een 90 steken kom je namelijk volgens de stekenverhouding op een omtrek van 50 cm. Hierbij is dus rekening gehouden dat het werk nog een beetje oprekt tijdens het dragen.

13.06.2021 kl. 10:49

country flag Vidal Marlene wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de finir de crocheter les 17 premiers tours du chapeau et j'aimerais connaître, à ce stade, le diamètre ou la circonférence du "rond" que je suis censé avoir obtenu pour vérifier si mes mesures sont bonnes. Je vous remercie d'avance. Cordialement

18.01.2021 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vidal, si votre tension est juste (= 18 mailles = 10 cm de large), vos 90 mailles à la fin du 17ème tour doivent mesurer 50 cm. Bon crochet!

18.01.2021 kl. 17:26

country flag Karina Elizabeth wrote:

Hola. Llegué a la vuelta 17 pero no tengo suficientes centímetros de contorno (tengo 52cm y necesito 56 cm). Cómo puedo corregir la medida del sombrero?

12.09.2020 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Karin. Puedes hacer unas vueltas adicionales hasta alcanzar la medida deseada ( los aumentos se trabajan de la misma manera que antes).

27.09.2020 kl. 20:42

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Katerina, Czech Republic
© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.