Quito by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS basket with color pattern in 2 strands "Paris".

DROPS 170-40
DROPS design: Pattern no w-600
Yarn group C + C or E
Measurements: Diameter: approx. 20 cm / 8'' Height: approx. 10 cm / 4''
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
150 g color no 24, dark gray
50 g color no 17, off white
50 g color no 41, mustard

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 13 sc/dc with 2 strands = width 10 cm / 4''.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagram A.1. Work diagram in dc, i.e. 1 square in diagram = 1 dc with 2 strands.

COLOR PATTERN (worked in the round):
When changing colour work as follows: Work last tr with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, then work next tr. When working with two color place strands for the color not worked over sts from previous round, work around the strands so that they are hidden and follows in the round.

Beg every sc round with ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round (this ch is not count in no of sc).
Beg every dc round with ch 3, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (these ch are not counted in no of dc).

Use yarn from both inside and outside of the ball. When switching to a new ball, try to avoid switching both strands at the same time - to avoid a thick yarn when fastening.

Work as sc but backwards. I.e. work sc from left to right.

Work 4 ch on hook SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 with 2 strands dark gray and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch - READ DOUBLE YARN TIP.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 6 sc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 sc in first/next sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 4: Work * 2 sc in first/next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: Work * 2 sc in first/next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: Work * 2 sc in first/next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sc.
Continue to work like this until 12 rounds have been worked = 72 sc on last round.
Work next round as follows: Work * 2 sc in first/next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 sc. Piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' in diameter. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work the edge.

Worked in pattern with 2 colors at a time.
Work edge as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.1 (= 16 dc) the entire round - READ COLOR PATTERN. When A.1 has been worked vertically, work 1 round with 2 strands mustard as follows: Work 1 REVERSE SC in every dc - see explanation above. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = mustard
symbols = dark gray

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Emma wrote:

Hej! Jag förstår inte början. Jag ska först göra en ring med 4 luftmaskor med dubbel tråd. Sen ska jag på något sätt virka fm så att 4 blir 6. Hur? Menar ni att man virkar 2 gånger fm i varannan? Eller menar ni att man ska sluta ha dubbel tråd efter att man slutit cirkeln och sen på något sätt virka 6 stycken fm? På videon ser det ut som att ni virkat botten men bara en tråd men det står aldrig att man ska ändra till enkel. Tacksam för svar.

02.10.2020 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Emma. Du skal hekle med 2 tråder (i videoen hekler vi med en tykkere tråd, derfor bare 1 tråd). Du starter med 4 luftmasker og setter disse sammen til en ring med en kjedemaske i første luftmaske. Så hekler du 6 fastmasker om denne ringen slik at du har en sirkel på 6 fastmasker ,deretter hekler du 2 fastmasker i hver av disse 6 fastmaskene = 12 fastmasker. Deretter øker du slik det står i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

05.10.2020 - 11:24

country flag Paola wrote:

Bellissimo questo cestino ma non sarebbe meglio lavorarlo tutto a spirale invece che chiudere tutti i giri? Il disegno si apprezza ugualmente....

19.12.2018 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paola. Può lavorare anche in spirale se preferisce. Buon lavoro!

20.12.2018 - 08:27

Laura wrote:

I do agree with Sissy, one of my crochet students is working on this pattern and if the 3ch do not count as a dc, then the last one is an extra stitch.

22.04.2017 - 14:52

country flag Sissy wrote:

The first round has the last stitch with an X in it. Your video shows the last stitch worked as the empty box color, the chart shows an X so technically you must stop before the end of the chart. That is fine when the first and last stitches are to be done in the same color. But for rows 4 & 6 the chain will not be the correct color. I have made the adjustments, but am writing to you for others who may not be able to make it work.

11.04.2017 - 22:21

country flag Sissy wrote:

Yes, but then what happens when you come to the end of the chart on the last repeat? What is the last stitch?

10.04.2017 - 05:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sissy, after the last repeat, you close the round with a slip stitch, which you crochet into the top of the 3 treble, the round was started with. I hope this helps. Happy chrocheting!

10.04.2017 - 23:08

country flag Sissy wrote:

Hi, in the notes section of the pattern it says the ch 3 that replaces the first dc of every round does not count in the number of dc for the round. I believe as the pattern is written and as the video shows, it is counted.

01.04.2017 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sissy, you can see in the first round in the video that the first 3 ch are worked extra to the first 2 sts worked in green (in the video / dark grey in the pattern). Happy crocheting!

03.04.2017 - 13:33

Yasyas wrote:

Thank you so much for the pattern, I love the colours used for this basket.

13.10.2016 - 23:54

country flag Lauren McRoberts wrote:

Love this unique basket!

23.12.2015 - 17:53

country flag Sigi wrote:

Würde ich gerne nach häkeln, ist auch ein schönes Geschenk.

18.12.2015 - 16:54

country flag Michelle Winther wrote:

Passar bra till inredningen.

13.12.2015 - 14:45

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 170-40

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.