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Erendruid by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with hood, fan pattern, worked top down in ”Andes”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: cape, fan pattern, hood, poncho, round yoke, top down

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DROPS Extra 0-1166
DROPS design: Pattern no an-034
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
700-800-800-900-1000-1100 g color no 6343, twilight blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 7 mm/K or L – or size needed to get 10 dc x 6 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). A.2 measures approx. 9 cm / 3½'' in width.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 536: 3 pieces in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 4.60 $ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 4.60 $ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 4.85 $ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc. NOTE: Do not inc over the outermost 4 dc in each side (= band sts).

BUTTONS:
Measure from cast-on edge at the front and sew buttons on left band:
SIZE S-M-L-XL: 2, 9 and 16 cm / 3/4",3½",6 1/4"
SIZE XXL-XXXL: 2, 10 and 18 cm / 3/4",4",7"
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PONCHO:
Work back and forth from neck and down. Then work the hood.

Work 66-68-68-73-73-78 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 7 mm with Andes. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-4-4-4-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 52-54-54-58-58-62 dc (includes 4 band sts in each side). Turn. READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc while inc - READ INCREASE TIP - 17-17-17-23-23-23 dc evenly on row = 69-71-71-81-81-85 dc. Turn. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Work rows with 1 dc in every dc while inc 12 dc evenly on every row 2-3-4-5-5-7 times in total = 93-107-119-141-141-169 dc. Turn. Work rows with 1 dc in every dc while inc 6 dc evenly on every row 5-4-4-3-4-2 times in total = 123-131-143-159-165-181 dc. Turn. Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc while inc 3-4-1-3-6-8 dc evenly on row = 126-135-144-162-171-189 dc. Turn. Piece measures approx. 17-17-18-18-20-20 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7"-8"-8". NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

Continue to work pattern from RS as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc (= band sts), A.1 - see explanation above, A.2 12-13-14-16-17-19 times in total, A.3, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc (= band sts). Then repeat A.x vertically. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue like this until piece measures approx. 36-36-40-40-40-44 cm / 14 1/4"-14 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4", adjust after row from RS. Fasten off.

HOOD:
Work back and forth along cast-on edge: Work 1 dc in every ch with dc - remember CROCHET INFO = 52-54-54-58-58-62 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc until hood measures approx. 32 cm / 12½'' vertically. Fasten off. Place the hood double and sew tog at the top- sew in outer loops of edge sts to make the seam flat.

CROCHET EDGE:
Then work an edge along the band and hood. Beg at the bottom on right band, and work as follows: Fasten strand with 1 sc around first dc-row, * ch 2, 1 sc around next dc-row *, repeat from *-* along right band, hood and left band. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to the left band - see explanation above. Button through holes in crochet edge on right front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in dc
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = dc in dc
symbols = dc around ch/ch-space
symbols = shows dc-row before 1st row in diagram
symbols = beg here
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1166) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag WPL wrote:

Guten Tag, mir ist leider nicht deutlich, wie ich ausrechnen kann um immer wieder gleichmässig zu zunehmen in den anfänglichen Reihen. Kann es wirklich so sein, dass ich erst alles selber aufschreiben muss, per Runde auf Papier aufzeichnen und dazwischen dann jeweils die Zunahmen selber hinzufügen und vorab auszählen? Es ist sehr zeitaufwendig und frustrierend, da es auch nicht immer auf Anhieb funktioniert. Gern erfahre ich, wie ich das am Besten machen kann. Mit freundlichen Grüssen WPL

10.06.2021 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau WPL, diese Lektion wird Ihnen helfen, zu kalkulieren, wie man regelmäßig verteilt zunimmt, so brauchen Sie nur jeweils so zu kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

10.06.2021 - 16:40

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Witam. Mam problem z dodawaniem sł. po 12 z każdej strony z 69 na 93 oczka poniżenia we wskazówkę jest: Aby dodać 1 sł należy przer. 2 sł w ten sam sł. UWAGA: nie dodawać o. ponad 4 sł z każdej strony (= oczka obszyć przodów). Jak dodam w 4 słupki po 2 to wtedy bedzie 16 wiec mi brakuje 8 słupków. Proszę o pomoc.

13.02.2020 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, w 2 kolejnych rzędach musisz dodać po 12 sł. 1-szy rząd: masz 69 sł minus 8 sł brzegowych = 61 sł. Podziel to na 12 =5, tzn. że 1 słupek będziesz dodawać co 5 słupków. Przerób pierwszych 7 sł, a w siódmy dodaj 1 sł, następnie dodawaj 1 sł w 12-ty, 17-ty, 22-gi sł itd. aż dodasz w sumie 12 słupków w rzędzie. W 2-gim rzędzie rób podobnie, tylko słupki będziesz dodawać co 6-ty słupek. Powodzenia!

14.02.2020 - 07:48

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Witam. Mam problem z dodawaniem sł. po 12 z każdej strony z 69 na 93 oczka poniżenia we wskazówkę jest: Aby dodać 1 sł należy przer. 2 sł w ten sam sł. UWAGA: nie dodawać o. ponad 4 sł z każdej strony (= oczka obszyć przodów). Jak dodam w 4 słupki po 2 to wtedy bedzie 16 wiec mi brakuje 8 słupków. Proszę o pomoc.

13.02.2020 - 10:37

country flag Graciela wrote:

¿Cada cuántos puntos altos se realiza el aumento? No me queda clara esta parte de la explicación: \"Trabajar 1 hilera con 1 p.a. en cada p.a. y, al mismo tiempo, aumentar – LEER TIP PARA AUMENTAR – 17-17-17-23-23-23 p.a. distribuidos equitativamente en la hilera = 69-71-71-81-81-85 p.a.

08.09.2019 - 04:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Graciela. Para calcular cómo aumentar puntos repartidos, contar el número total de puntos en la aguja (p.e 52 puntos) y dividirlos entre el número de aumentos a trabajar (p.e 17) = 3. En este ejemplo, aumentar cada 3 puntos.

27.10.2019 - 22:35

country flag Kenzie wrote:

Sorry, letzte Angabe vertippt. Statt 4R 3 zun = 3R 8 zun.

12.08.2019 - 13:25

country flag Kenzie wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe mich auch an dieses Model gewagt und benutzt was ich hier habe. Vielleicht helfen ja meine Angaben Jemanden?! Ich bin sehr mollig und habe breite Schultern. Größe ca, 58/60 in 8/4 Garn mit Nadel 3.5 180LM 3R=4St,1Lm....bis Ende 2R 23 zun. 10R 12 zun. 4R 6 zun. 4R 3 zun. Je nach Breite der Schultern, muss man die Reihen auch noch anpassen. Am Besten immer mal wieder anlegen. Viel Spaß bei dieser tollen Anleitung!

12.08.2019 - 13:22

country flag Trish ODonnell wrote:

Can you give a written pattern for A2 andA3 to follow

08.03.2019 - 02:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs ODonnell, A.2 and A.3 are only diagrams, please find how to work a crochet diagram here. Happy crocheting!

08.03.2019 - 08:16

Jennifer Miles wrote:

I'm sorry but I don't understand the statement place the hood double and sew on tog at top. I just can't visualise it.

05.10.2018 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jennifer, just fold the whole poncho in half, and continue to fold the hood in half. At the top the cast off edge should be folded in half as well. Sew these two sides together. Happy Crafting!

07.10.2018 - 23:12

Carmen Tisoc Rasmussen wrote:

La parte de arriba no entiendo su esplicacion no hay video por favor

13.06.2018 - 06:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen. Primero se trabaja la elevación en la espalda y después se trabaja la parte de arriba del cuerpo de ida y vuelta. Esto se hace para que la prenda coja mejor forma. En este momento no hay video para esta parte del patrón.

23.06.2018 - 19:42

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo und guten Tag, ich bin dabei das Modell "Erendruid" (Poncho mit Kapuze) zu häkeln. Die ersten 18 cm (nur Stäbchen) hat auch alles gepasst. Jetzt bin ich bei dem Muster und nach den ersten 4 Reihen merke ich schon, dass sich alles zieht und die ersten 18 cm ziehen Falten. Ich erkläre mir das durch die vielen Lm die ja enger sind als Stäbchen. Was mache ich falsch, oder wie kann ich das beheben? Vielen Dank im voraus für eine Antwort. Viele Grüße Katharina

09.10.2017 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, versuchen Sie die Lm genauso breit wie die Stäbchen zu häkeln, damit Muster A.2 ca 9 cm in der Breite mißt. Gerne können Sie auch Ihrem Laden Ihr Häkelprojekt zeigen, damit Sie Ihnen weiterhelfen können. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

09.10.2017 - 15:22

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