DROPS Extra / 0-1166

Erendruid by DROPS Design

DROPS pončo s kapucí háčkované vějířkovým vzorem shora dolů z příze "Andes". Velikost: S-XXXL.

DROPS design: model č. an-034
Skupina přízí: E nebo C + C
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Velikost: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materiál: DROPS ANDES firmy Garnstudio
700-800-800-900-1000-1100 g, barva č.6343, soumrak

DROPS HÁČEK č. 7 – nebo velikosti potřebné k uháčkování zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 10 DS x 6 řad = 10 x 10 cm. Sekvence vzoru A.2 je široká asi 9 cm.
DROPS ROHOVINOVÝ KNOFLÍK Opalovaný č. 536 (průměr 25 mm): 3 ks pro všechny velikosti.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

65% vlna, 35% alpaka
od 138.00 Kč /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 138.00 Kč /100g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 147.00 Kč /100g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 966Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.3.

INFO:
První DS na začátku každé řady DS nahrazujeme 3 řo.

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
1 DS přidáme uháčkováním 2 DS do jednoho a téhož DS. POZN.: přidáváme mimo vnější (krajní) 4 DS na každé straně (= légy).

KNOFLÍKY:
Na levou légu přišijeme knoflíky v těchto rozestupech – měřeno od počáteční řady:
Velikost S-M-L-XL: 2, 9 a 16 cm.
Velikost XXL-XXXL: 2, 10 a 18 cm.
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PONČO:
Háčkujeme v řadách shora dolů, tj. od průkrčníku k dolnímu okraji. Nakonec přiháčkujeme kapuci.

Háčkem č.7 uháčkujeme přízí Andes 66-68-68-73-73-78 řo (včetně 3 řo na otočení). Práci otočíme a uháčkujeme 1 DS do 4. řo od háčku (= 2 DS), pak po 1 DS do každého z dalších 2-4-4-4-4-4 řo, *1 řo vynecháme, po 1 DS do každého z dalších 4 řo*, *-* opakujeme = 52-54-54-58-58-62 DS (včetně 4 ok légy na každé straně). Práci otočíme. Viz INFO! Háčkujeme 1 řadu DS a SOUČASNĚ přidáváme - viz TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ: přidáme rovnoměrně 17-17-17-23-23-23 DS = 69-71-71-81-81-85 DS. Práci otočíme. Pokračujeme řadami DS a SOUČASNĚ přidáváme v každé řadě rovnoměrně 12 DS, a to celkem 2-3-4-5-5-7x = 93-107-119-141-141-169 DS. Práci otočíme. Pokračujeme řadami DS a SOUČASNĚ přidáváme v každé řadě rovnoměrně 6 DS, a to celkem 5-4-4-3-4-2x = 123-131-143-159-165-181 DS. Práci otočíme. Pokračujeme řadami DS a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 3-4-1-3-6-8 DS v řadě = 126-135-144-162-171-189 DS. Práci otočíme.
Díl měří asi 17-17-18-18-20-20 cm. NYNÍ MĚŘÍME DÍL OD TOHOTO MÍSTA!

Pokračujeme v háčkování vzoru - začínáme lícovou řadou, takto: po 1 DS do každého z prvních 4 DS (= léga), vzor A.1 – viz výše, vzor A.2 – sekvenci vzoru opakujeme celkem 12-13-14-16-17-19x, vzor A.3, po 1 DS do každého z posledních 4 DS (= léga). Nyní opakujeme sekvenci vzoru A.x (na výšku). Takto pokračujeme až do výše asi 36-36-40-40-40-44 cm, končíme lícovou řadou. Práci ukončíme.

KAPUCE:
Háčkujeme v řadách do okraje průkrčníku (tj. podél počáteční řady): po 1 DS do každého řo s DS - viz INFO = 52-54-54-58-58-62 DS. Pokračujeme řadami DS, až je kapuce vysoká asi 32 cm. Práci ukončíme. Poté kapuci přeložíme napolovic a sešijeme vršek – šev vedeme vnější částí krajních ok, aby byl co nejjemnější.

LEM:
Nakonec obě légy i okraj kapuce obháčkujeme. Začínáme v dolním rohu pravé légy a postupujeme takto: přízi přichytíme pomocí 1 KS kolem první řady DS, *2 řo, 1 KS kolem následující řady DS*, *-* opakujeme podél pravé légy, kapuce i levé légy. Práci ukončíme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Na levou légu přišijeme knoflíky – viz výše. Knoflíky zapínáme do dírek ve vzoru pravé légy.

Schéma

= řo
= KS do DS
= KS kolem obloučku z řo
= DS do DS
= DS kolem řo/obloučku z řo
= zobrazuje řadu DS před 1. řadou ve schématu
= zde začneme
= směr háčkování


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Extra 0-1166) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (18)

Agnieszka 13.02.2020 - 10:38:

Witam. Mam problem z dodawaniem sł. po 12 z każdej strony z 69 na 93 oczka poniżenia we wskazówkę jest: Aby dodać 1 sł należy przer. 2 sł w ten sam sł. UWAGA: nie dodawać o. ponad 4 sł z każdej strony (= oczka obszyć przodów). Jak dodam w 4 słupki po 2 to wtedy bedzie 16 wiec mi brakuje 8 słupków. Proszę o pomoc.

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 07:48:

Witaj Agnieszko, w 2 kolejnych rzędach musisz dodać po 12 sł. 1-szy rząd: masz 69 sł minus 8 sł brzegowych = 61 sł. Podziel to na 12 =5, tzn. że 1 słupek będziesz dodawać co 5 słupków. Przerób pierwszych 7 sł, a w siódmy dodaj 1 sł, następnie dodawaj 1 sł w 12-ty, 17-ty, 22-gi sł itd. aż dodasz w sumie 12 słupków w rzędzie. W 2-gim rzędzie rób podobnie, tylko słupki będziesz dodawać co 6-ty słupek. Powodzenia!

Agnieszka 13.02.2020 - 10:37:

Witam. Mam problem z dodawaniem sł. po 12 z każdej strony z 69 na 93 oczka poniżenia we wskazówkę jest: Aby dodać 1 sł należy przer. 2 sł w ten sam sł. UWAGA: nie dodawać o. ponad 4 sł z każdej strony (= oczka obszyć przodów). Jak dodam w 4 słupki po 2 to wtedy bedzie 16 wiec mi brakuje 8 słupków. Proszę o pomoc.

Graciela 08.09.2019 - 04:53:

¿Cada cuántos puntos altos se realiza el aumento? No me queda clara esta parte de la explicación: \"Trabajar 1 hilera con 1 p.a. en cada p.a. y, al mismo tiempo, aumentar – LEER TIP PARA AUMENTAR – 17-17-17-23-23-23 p.a. distribuidos equitativamente en la hilera = 69-71-71-81-81-85 p.a.

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 22:35:

Hola Graciela. Para calcular cómo aumentar puntos repartidos, contar el número total de puntos en la aguja (p.e 52 puntos) y dividirlos entre el número de aumentos a trabajar (p.e 17) = 3. En este ejemplo, aumentar cada 3 puntos.

Kenzie 12.08.2019 - 13:25:

Sorry, letzte Angabe vertippt. Statt 4R 3 zun = 3R 8 zun.

Kenzie 12.08.2019 - 13:22:

Hallo. Ich habe mich auch an dieses Model gewagt und benutzt was ich hier habe. Vielleicht helfen ja meine Angaben Jemanden?! Ich bin sehr mollig und habe breite Schultern. Größe ca, 58/60 in 8/4 Garn mit Nadel 3.5 180LM 3R=4St,1Lm....bis Ende 2R 23 zun. 10R 12 zun. 4R 6 zun. 4R 3 zun. Je nach Breite der Schultern, muss man die Reihen auch noch anpassen. Am Besten immer mal wieder anlegen. Viel Spaß bei dieser tollen Anleitung!

Trish ODonnell 08.03.2019 - 02:21:

Can you give a written pattern for A2 andA3 to follow

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 08:16:

Dear Mrs ODonnell, A.2 and A.3 are only diagrams, please find how to work a crochet diagram here. Happy crocheting!

Jennifer Miles 05.10.2018 - 19:46:

I'm sorry but I don't understand the statement place the hood double and sew on tog at top. I just can't visualise it.

DROPS Design 07.10.2018 kl. 23:12:

Dear Jennifer, just fold the whole poncho in half, and continue to fold the hood in half. At the top the cast off edge should be folded in half as well. Sew these two sides together. Happy Crafting!

Carmen Tisoc Rasmussen 13.06.2018 - 06:35:

La parte de arriba no entiendo su esplicacion no hay video por favor

DROPS Design 23.06.2018 kl. 19:42:

Hola Carmen. Primero se trabaja la elevación en la espalda y después se trabaja la parte de arriba del cuerpo de ida y vuelta. Esto se hace para que la prenda coja mejor forma. En este momento no hay video para esta parte del patrón.

Katharina 09.10.2017 - 14:17:

Hallo und guten Tag, ich bin dabei das Modell "Erendruid" (Poncho mit Kapuze) zu häkeln. Die ersten 18 cm (nur Stäbchen) hat auch alles gepasst. Jetzt bin ich bei dem Muster und nach den ersten 4 Reihen merke ich schon, dass sich alles zieht und die ersten 18 cm ziehen Falten. Ich erkläre mir das durch die vielen Lm die ja enger sind als Stäbchen. Was mache ich falsch, oder wie kann ich das beheben? Vielen Dank im voraus für eine Antwort. Viele Grüße Katharina

DROPS Design 09.10.2017 kl. 15:22:

Liebe Katharina, versuchen Sie die Lm genauso breit wie die Stäbchen zu häkeln, damit Muster A.2 ca 9 cm in der Breite mißt. Gerne können Sie auch Ihrem Laden Ihr Häkelprojekt zeigen, damit Sie Ihnen weiterhelfen können. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Mahtab 08.08.2017 - 07:03:

Hello. I did the same thing. I checked the schematic bellow the pattern. However, this schematic has measurements for the lower edge of the poncho, and information regarding the bust size are not included. This is what makes choosing the right size difficult.

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