Pole Star by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS rug with stripes and zig-zag pattern in "Snow".

Keywords: carpet, stripes, zigzag
DROPS 163-12
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-541
Yarn group E or C + C
Measurements: approx. 112 cm / 44'' in diameter (from tip to tip)
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
150 g color no 05, turquoise
200 g color no 46, medium gray
150 g color no 37, sapphire
200 g color no 01, off white
200 g color no 53, light gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 7 mm/K or L – or size needed to get 10 dc x 6 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid hole in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, work ch 3, then work 11 dc around the loop. Pull the yarn end to tighten loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side.

Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

See diagram A.1.

Piece is worked in stripes - READ COLOR CHANGE.
2 ROUNDS medium gray
2 ROUNDS sapphire
2 ROUNDS off white
2 ROUNDS light gray
2 ROUNDS turquoise
2 ROUNDS sapphire
2 ROUNDS off white
2 ROUNDS light gray
2 ROUNDS medium gray

To get a nice color change when working, work last dc on round as follows: Make a YO, insert hook in last st, get the yarn and pull it through st, make a YO and pull it through the first 2 sts on hook, then make a YO with the new color and pull it through the 2 sts on hook.

Worked in the round in turquoise before working stripes and zig-zag.

Work a MAGIC CIRCLE - see explanation above, with 12 dc - READ CROCHET INFO, on hook size 7 mm with turquoise. Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 2 dc in every dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 2: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 3: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 dc.
ROUND 5: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 dc. Switch to medium grey -
ROUND 6: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 90 dc.

Then work STRIPES - see explanation above - while AT THE SAME TIME working zig-zag as follows: Work A.1 5 times in total on round (= 10 tips). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat 3rd round in A.1. Continue until stripes are done. Piece measures approx. 112 cm / 44'' in diameter (from edge of tips). Fasten off.

See DROPS 163-13 or "Related patterns" in pattern on website.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dc in st below
symbols = dc around ch-space below
symbols = 3 ch
symbols = this row is explained in pattern

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 163-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Krissi wrote:

Ich komme mit der Anleitung nicht zurecht. Im Video werden 2 Stäbchen in das untere gehäkelt in der Häkelschrift nicht. Was ist denn nun korrekt?

18.11.2022 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Krissi, es gibt unerschiedliche Zackenmuster, hier folgen Sie das Diagram, so haben Sie das selbe Muster wie im Foto. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

18.11.2022 - 15:37

country flag Maria Rubech wrote:

Undskyld men er der ikke fejl i opskriften? Er det ikke efter 5 omgang, at der skal laves farveskift til mellemgrå. Hvis man tæller på billedet er der 6 omgange med blå, men følger man opskriften er der 7. Tænker at det er fordi, at man ikke har talt den første omgang, de 12 stgm med, det burde være "første omgang"?

30.11.2021 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Takk for din kommentar, oppskriften er oversendt design avd slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk og evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS Design

30.11.2021 - 11:35

country flag Carina wrote:

Ich glaube mit der Anleitung stimmt etwas nicht. Ich denke man muss nicht die Reihe 3 wiederholen sondern sinngemäß fortsetzen. Also in der 4. Reihe 5Maschen zwischen der abnahme und Zunahme in der 5. Reihe 6 Maschen dazwischen. Sonst kann es nicht funktionieren das der Teppich gerade bleibt. Wenn man das Bild anschaut kann man auch mehr als 4 Maschen zwischen der Abnahme und Zunahme zählen.

05.02.2021 - 23:00

country flag Jane Synnøve Haugen wrote:

Forstår ikke verken videoen eller oppskrifta, fra økingen til der mønsteret begynner. Jeg får flere spisser en det som skal være, hva gjør jeg galt?

29.07.2020 - 06:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jane, sæt gerne et mærke efter hver gang du har hæklet de 18 st i diagrammet, da er det lettere at se hor lm skal være. God fornøjelse!

30.07.2020 - 15:41

country flag Solange wrote:

Goedenavond. Lees ik het goed dat je na de eerste keer A1 je hebt gehaakt, je daarna steeds rij 3 herhaald?

13.03.2020 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Solange,

Ja, dat klopt helemaal!

22.03.2020 - 12:44

country flag Badema wrote:

Det tok litt tid men jeg skjønte det til slutt. Den første raden i diagrammet er egentlig det som hekles først, staver i ring. Så vi begynner med andre raden i diagrammet og sikk sakk mønster. Håper det hjelper andre til å forstå oppskrifta. Hilsen

03.04.2019 - 10:18

country flag Elisa wrote:

Buonasera, vorrei sapere se è possibile usare questo modello per realizzare una copertina da neonato (filato tipo B). In caso affermativo, cosa consigliate? Grazie mille

30.08.2018 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Elisa, questo tappeto è lavorato con il filato Eskimo che appartiene al gruppo filati E. Una coperta con queste caratteristiche non è adatta a un neonato perchè risulterebbe troppo pesante. In ogni caso provi il nostro convertitore di filati per vedere quale filato potrebbe usare. In alternativa a questo link può trovare moltissimi modelli di coperte per neonati. Buon lavoro!

31.08.2018 - 07:59

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

In navolging op de opmerking van Kim loop ik ook vast bij het begin van de zigzag. Als ik kijk bij het instructie filmpje zie ik een heel ander telpatroon eronder leggen die wel klopt. Ik denk dat jullie eens goed moeten kijken naar jullie telpatroon wat hierbij staat want die klopt niet.

22.07.2018 - 19:43

country flag Kim wrote:

Hallo, Wat een leuk kleed! Ik loop helaas vast bij het begin van de zigzag; de laatste rij in de geschreven uitleg geeft aan *2 stk in eerste stk, 1 stk in elk van de volgende 3 stk*. In het diagram zie ik echter *2 stk in eerste stk, 1 stk in elk van de volgende 7 stk* (elke tweede dubbele stk lijkt er maar 1 te zijn in het diagram; de dieper getekende stk). Kunt u mij uitleggen wat ik verkeerd doe? Met vriendelijke groet, Kim

07.06.2018 - 06:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kim, In het telpatroon staat bij de eerste toer van stokjes een pijl. Dit is toer 6 van het geschreven patroon. Deze is er in getekent zodat je kunt zien hoe je start met het telpatroon, Je begint gewoon bij toer 1 van het telpatroon.

08.06.2018 - 11:04

country flag Trude Grimstad wrote:

Leser oppskrift og ser både diagram og ser video. Det virker som om hun hekler 2 staver i 1 i stjernemønstret, men det kommer ikke frem i diagram. Og oppskrifta "stopper liksom" etter 6 rad. Dette er forvirrende. Tar jeg feil?

06.04.2017 - 08:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Trude. Du tar ikke feil. Denne video skal ikke ligge under denne oppskriften. Videoen er laget til et veldig likt teppe, - DROPS Extra 0-1050, og der skal man hekle 2 staver i 1 stjernemønster. Men om du følger oppskriften og diagrammet til 163-12 skal det være riktig, så skal vi få laget en ny video til dette teppet. I den aktuelle videoen viser vi bare begynnelsen, man må også lese oppskriften. Etter 6. omgang skal det hekles striper (les forklaringen i oppskriften) og 3. omgang i A.1 til teppet er ferdig. God fornøyelse.

07.04.2017 - 08:59

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