Evening In Paris by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS shawl with dc and lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.

Keywords: lace, shawls, top down
  • Evening In Paris / DROPS 165-11 - Crochet DROPS shawl with dc and lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.
  • Evening In Paris / DROPS 165-11 - Crochet DROPS shawl with dc and lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-084
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Length in the middle: Approx. 73 cm / 28 3/4'' Width: Approx. 146 cm / 57½''
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300 g color no 4088, heather

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MEASURING TIP:
Always measure from the first ch worked and down along the tip of shawl.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 4 ch.
At beg of every row with dtr replace first dtr with 5 ch + 1 ch (to avoid a tight edge) = 6 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.5.

INC dc-GROUP:
Work 2 dc in first dc, 1 ch (= tip), skip ch 1, 2 dc in next dc = 2 dc inc in tip. NOTE: On 3rd row in A.2, inc with double dc instead of dc!

INCREASE TIP:
On every row with dc (and A.2) inc with 2 dc in first and last st on every row and work a inc dc-group in the tip of shawl (= 4 dc inc on row). NOTE: On 3rd row in A.2, inc with double dc instead of dc!
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth.

ROW 1 (= from WS): Work according to diagram A.1 as follows: Work 7 ch (= 1 dtr + 1 ch) - READ CROCHET INFO with BabyAlpaca Silk on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4. Work ch 1, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in first ch on row, work ch 2, insert a marker (= tip of shawl) - move it upwards until finished measurements, ch 2, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in first ch on row, ch 1, 1 dtr in first ch.
ROW 2: Work 8 ch, 7 tr around next ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr around next ch-space (= tip), ch 2, 7 tr around ch-space, ch 2, 1 dtr in 6th ch on previous row.
ROW 3: Work 8 ch, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in last ch from previous row, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, skip next ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in the middle tr from previous row, 4 ch (= tip), (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in same tr, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in 6th ch from previous row, ch 2, 1 dtr in 6th ch on previous row.
ROW 4: Work A.Z like this: 8 ch, skip 1 ch-space, 7 tr around next ch-space, 2 ch. Work A.1a as follows: 1 tr in the middle of the 3 tr, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, 7 tr around next ch-space, 2 ch. Work 1 tr around next ch-space (= tip). Therafter work A.1b as follows: ch 2, 7 tr around next ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr in the middle of the next 3 tr. Work A:X as follows: ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, 7 tr around next ch-space, ch 2, 1 dtr in 6th ch on previous row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROW 5: Work A.X as follows: 8 ch, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in last ch from previous row, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, 2 ch. Work A.1b as follows: Skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next tr, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, 2 ch. Skip 1 ch-space (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in the middle tr on shawl, 4 ch (= tip). Work A.1a as follows: (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in same tr, skip 1 ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next tr, skip 1 ch-space. Work A.Z as follows: ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in 6th ch on previous row, ch 2, 1 dtr in 6th ch.
ROWS 6-11: Continue with pattern as explained on 4th and 5th row, AT THE SAME TIME work A.1a and A.1b over the new inc sts in A.x and A.Z. There are now 5 tr groups vertically along tip of shawl and piece measures approx. 24 cm / 9½'' - READ MEASURING TIP.

Now work A.2 as follows: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc more in last tr from previous row (= 1 dc inc), continue with 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc around every ch until the middle ch-space (= tip), then work 1 dc around ch-space, 2 dc in the first of the two middle ch (= 1 dc inc), ch 1, 2 dc in next ch (= 1 dc inc), 1 dc around same ch-space. Continue with 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc around every ch and work 2 dc in 6th ch at beg of previous row (= 1 dc inc) = 4 dc inc in total and 156 dc on row (= 78 dc on each side of tip).
Then continue from 2nd row in A.2, AT THE SAME TIME continue the same inc - READ INCREASE TIP and work an INC dc-GROUP - see explanation above, beg in dc before ch in the tip of shawl. NOTE: On 3rd work 1 ch before inc dc-group and before the last inc on row so that the pattern is symmetrical. (I.e. 2 extra dc are inc on next row when 1 dc is worked around these 2 extra ch).
When entire A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 174 dc on row. Then work 5 rows of A.2 1 more time vertically the same way (= 22 dc inc) = 198 dc.

Now continue inc as at beg of shawl as follows - see diagram A.3-A.5:
ROW 1: Work 8 ch, * (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 11 more times, skip 1 dc, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next dc (= first dc of the 2 middle dc), 4 ch (= tip), (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next dc (= second dc of the middle 2 dc), ** ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next dc **, repeat from **-** 11 more times, ch 2, 1 dtr in last dc on row.
ROW 2: Work 8 ch, skip 1 ch-space, * 7 tr around next ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr in the middle of the 3 dc, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* 11 more times, 7 tr around next ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr around next ch-space (= tip), ch 2, 7 tr around next ch-space, ** ch 2, 1 tr in the middle of the next 3 dc, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, 7 tr around next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 11 more times, ch 2, 1 dtr in 6th ch on previous row.
ROW 3: Work 8 ch, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in last ch from previous row, * ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next tr, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* 11 more times, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next tr, 4 ch (= tip), (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in same tr, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, ch 2, ** skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in next tr, skip 1 ch-space, ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, 2 ch **, repeat from **-** 11 more times, skip 1 ch-space, (1 tr, ch 4, 1 tr) in 6th ch on previous row, ch 2, 1 dtr in same ch.

Now work A.2 as follows: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc more in last tr on previous row (= 1 dc inc), continue with 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc around every ch until the middle ch-space on shawl (= tip), then work 1 dc around ch-space, 2 dc in the first of the two middle ch (= 1 dc inc), ch 1, 2 dc in next ch (= 1 dc inc), 1 dc around same ch-space. Continue with 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc around every ch and work 2 dc in 6th ch at beg of previous row (= 1 dc inc) 364 dc on row (= 182 dc on each side of tip).
Then continue from 2nd row in A.2, AT THE SAME TIME continue the same inc and work an INC DC-GROUP - see explanation above, beg in dc before ch in the tip of shawl. NOTE: On 3rd row work 1 ch before inc dc-group and before the last inc on row to make it symmetrical. I.e. inc 2 dc on next row when working 1 dc around these ch 2, AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 8 dc evenly (i.e. 4 dc on each side of tip) = 390 dc on row.

Now continue from arrow in diagram A.3, A.4 and A.5 the same way as before but now work A.3 24 times in total before A.4 (= inc in tip), and A.5 24 times in width after A.4. When A.3-A.5 has been worked vertically, continue pattern and inc as shown on 2nd-5th row in diagram until piece measures 75 cm / 29½'' in total along tip - adjust to finish on a row which is like 4th row in diagram. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.10.2016
Correction: ...AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 8 dc evenly (i.e. 4 dc on each side of tip) = 390 dc on row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 6 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc worked in back loop from RS, 1 dc worked in front loop from WS
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 tr around ch-space
symbols = 1 tr in the middle of the 3 dc
symbols = 1 dtr in st below
symbols = 7 tr around ch-space below
symbols = ch 2, 1 tr in each of the middle 3 tr, 2 ch
symbols = 1 tr in st below, ch 4, 1 tr in same st.
symbols = beg on row with arrow
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Takako wrote:

Thank you for answering! I am looking at US version and is part of it says “double dc” INC dc-GROUP and INCREASE TIP. Sorry I am now more confused. About increasing 22 sts, as your team answered to other people’s question, I figured out that 22 sts includes extra 2 sts on 3rd row of A.2.(4, 4, 6, 4, 4)increasing sts counts. So increasing 24 sts eventually, increase 6 sts on 4th row(next row of 3rd row)? Thank you very much.

30.10.2021 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Takako, double dc is a separate stitch, it's a dc with 2 yarn overs (instead of 1, which would be the normal dc). 22 stitches is the total amount of increased stitches after working 5 rows of A.2. Happy knitting!

01.11.2021 kl. 13:45

country flag Takako wrote:

Sorry for multiple posts, but what is double dc as mentioned at the INC dc-GROUP and INCREASE TIP? Are those same as 2 dcs together?

29.10.2021 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Takako, which version are you reading (British or US?) Happy Stitching!

30.10.2021 kl. 03:28

country flag Takako wrote:

Hello, I need a help with first A.2, how can you get 198 sts, after increased 22 sts to 174 sts? Not 196 sts? Thanks for your help in advance!

29.10.2021 - 17:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Takako, when doing the A.2 pattern, did you counted the increase h enote mentions? ("NOTE: On 3rd work 1 ch before inc tr-group and before the last inc on row so that the pattern is symmetrical. (I.e. 2 extra tr are inc on next row when 1 tr is worked around these 2 extra ch). " That might be the missing 2 stitches. Happy Stitching!

30.10.2021 kl. 03:25

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Trabajo terminado, con dudas con el patrón, pero al final preguntando y probando pude terminarlo

01.07.2021 - 18:40

country flag Sanne wrote:

Nu har jeg hæklet utallige indviklede sjaler, da der skal være udfordring i det. det må man sige der er her. Aldrig har jeg oplevet en mere rodet og uoverskuelig opskrift. hækle ihver af de trdbst som ikke findes. men hvor mange af de midterste. 3, 5 eller 1. man roder rundt i diagrammer, som ikke er ordentligt beskrevet. er nået til 3 række, og er allerede dybt frustreret. har sat teksten i dokument, så den kunne splittes og blive bare en anelse overskuelig.\r\ner ellers habil hækler

17.01.2021 - 12:08

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Al hacer A2 por segunda vez, una vez hecha la quinta vuelta pone continuar con A2 a partir de la segunda vuelta, para después continuar con el trabajo has el final según los diagramas A3,A4 y A5, todo eso lo entiendo, pero si veo la foto del chal, parece que el segundo grupo de A2 solo se trabaja las 5 vueltas sin continuar a partir de la segunda vuelta de A2.¿ que es lo correcto?

02.01.2021 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Esperanza. El patrón es correcto. La foto es solo para dar una visión general de la prenda. Tienes que trabajar según las explicaciones del patrón.

03.01.2021 kl. 16:28

country flag Malene wrote:

Hejsa, jeg har hæklet mange sjaler, tæpper mv men denne opskrift har jeg forsøgt forfra på 4 gange og jeg kan stadig ikke få teksten til at gå logisk op med hvordan mønstret ser ud. Synes ikke at det hænger sammen og synes den er kringlet forklaret bare de første 5 rækker så nu er jeg tilbage ved række 1, men tager nok snart en anden opskrift...

24.11.2020 - 21:26

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Con respecto a mi duda anterior, he visto que hace referencia a A.1a y A.1b en la explicación de la vuelta 4.. lo entendí.. lo que no lo veía era en el diagrama

22.11.2020 - 21:43

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Hola he terminado la vuelta 5, y ahora de la 6 a la 11, pone continuar el patrón según las filas 4 y5 , (eso lo entiendo) ,pero ahora pone AL MISMO TIEMPO TRABAJAR A.1,a Y A.1b sobre los nuevos ptos aumentos A.X Y A.Z , pero no veo dónde está A.1a y A.1B Y NO SE QUE HAY QUE HACER

15.11.2020 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Esperanza, parece que se trata de una errata, vamos a mandar tu duda al departamento de diseño para solucionarla.

21.11.2020 kl. 21:13

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Alguien que sepa orientarme sobre los diagramas y el sentido de realización. GRACIAS

19.10.2020 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Esperanza. El chal se trabaja desde el centro de arriba la espalda y hacia abajo. Puedes aprender a leer el patrón con esta lección Drops: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=23. También puedes acudir a tu tienda más cercana de Drops para obtener ayuda específica.

25.10.2020 kl. 16:41

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