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Raspberry Wrap by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with lace pattern in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”.

Keywords: lace, shawl, top down

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DROPS 165-4
DROPS design: Pattern no z-720
Yarn group A + A or C
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Measurements: approx. 100 cm / 40'' measured along mid sts, and approx. 200 cm / 80'' at the top.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
350 g color no 3770, dark pink
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150 g color no 17, dark pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk 		from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.10$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc with YO, K YOs on next row to make holes.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc with YO, P YO twisted on next row to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
Use two circular needles if there are too many sts on a circular needle.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.18. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from mid back and down. Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert a marker in the middle st. Then work in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP 1 as follows: Inc 1 st inside 2 edge sts in each side of piece and 1 st on each side of mid st. Inc like this until there are 57 sts on needle (i.e. there are 28 sts on each side of mid st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Then work the 2 edge sts in each side in garter st and mid st in stockinette st.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 (= 2 sts) until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 12 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 2. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 91 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.4-A.6 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 (= 6 sts) until 4 sts remain before mid st, A.6 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 6 sts remain, A.6 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on 11th row (= from RS) inc 12 sts evenly. When A.4-A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 135 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' measured along mid st.

Work diagram A.7-A.9 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 (= 12 sts) until 3 sts remain before mid st, A.9 over 3 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 5 sts remain, A.9 over 3 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.7-A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 187 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.10-A.12 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.10 over 3 sts, repeat A.11 (= 12 sts) until 4 sts remains before mid st, A.12 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.10 over 3 sts, repeat A.11 until 6 sts remain, A.12 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.10-A.12 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 279 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 57 cm / 22½'' measured along mid st.

Work diagram A.13-A.15 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.13 over 8 sts, repeat A.14 until 9 sts remain before mid st, A.15 over 9 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.13 over 8 sts, repeat A.14 until 11 sts remain, A.15 over 9 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.13-A.15 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 319 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.16-A.18 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.16 over 6 sts, repeat A.17 until 7 sts remain before mid st, A.18 over 7 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.16 over 6 sts, repeat A.17 until 9 sts remain, A.18 over 7 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 12 sts evenly. When A.16-A.18 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 403 sts on needle - READ KNITTING TIP. Piece measures approx. 81 cm / 32'' measured along mid st.

Work diagram A.4-A.6 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 4 sts remain before mid st, A.6 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 6 sts remain, A.6 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on 11th row (= from RS) inc 12 sts evenly. When A.4-A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 447 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.7-A.9 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 3 sts remain before mid st, A.9 over 3 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 5 sts remain, A.9 over 3 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.7-A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 477 sts on needle.

Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 499 sts on needle.

Then work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts inside 2 edge sts in each side of piece and 2 sts on each side of mid st on every row from RS (= 8 sts inc). Bind off. Piece measures approx. 100 cm / 40'' measured along mid st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (72)

country flag Linda Rodier wrote:

Chale 165-4 j’augmente tu chaque cote de la maille centrale du début et jusqu’à la fin de chale merci

22.01.2023 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodier, tout à fait, ces augmentations figurent dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

23.01.2023 kl. 09:47

country flag Mme Rodier wrote:

Bonjour spres la maille centrale je recommence tu avec le graphique a3 et je fini avec le A 1 merci

10.01.2023 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodier, tricotez bien les diagrammes dans l'ordre indiqué, autrement dit: 2 m point mousse, A.1, répétez A.2, tricotez A.3, 1 maille centrale, puis de nouveau: A.1, répétez A.2, A.3 et terminez par 2 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

11.01.2023 kl. 09:45

country flag Rodier wrote:

Le A1au. rg9on n’a une jeté et le A3 on n’a deux jete est que c’´est correct.. Et chaque côté de la maille centrale sur rang endroit on augmente tu pour avoir 91 mailles merci

08.01.2023 - 02:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodier, c'est bien correct, vous augmentez 2 mailles dans A.3 avant la maille centrale + 2 m dans A.3 après la maille centrale, autrement dit vous augmenterez 2 m en plus soit 6 mailles au lieu de 4 = 79m au total quand les diagrammes sont finis + 12 m à intervalles réguliers (augmentez 6 m de chaque côté de la maille centrale) = 91 m. Bon tricot!

09.01.2023 kl. 09:39

country flag Ruth wrote:

Ein großes Kompliment für die tolle Anleitung. Habe das Tuch mittlerweile zweimal gestrickt. Beim Stricken muss man sich nicht zu viel Stress machen, stimmt die Maschenzahl nicht kann man unauffällig korrigieren:-). Die fertigen Tücher lösen viel Bewunderung aus-Danke!

21.01.2022 - 06:18

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Donc au 11ème rang j'ai mes 135 mailles mais au 13 rang j'ai deux autres augmentations, ce qui me fait 137 mailles et je dois commencer A 7 A8 A 9 avec 135 mailles ce que je ne comprends pas. Merci

30.11.2021 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Richard, après le 10ème rang, vous avez 111 mailles, vous tricotez: 2 m point mousse, A.4 (= 8 m + 2), A.5 (= 36 m +6 ), A.6 (= 9 m + 2), 1 m centrale, A.4 (= 8 m + 2), A.5 (= 36 m +6 ), A.6 (= 9 m + 2), 2 m point mousse = 2+10+42+11+1+10+-42+11+2=131 mailles. Au 13ème rang, augmentez 1 maille dans A.4 et A.6 comme avant = 131+4=135 mailles. Bon tricot!

01.12.2021 kl. 07:59

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Si je comprends bien au 11ème rang A 4 : 2 m point mousse, 1 jeté, 1 m endroit, 1 jeté et 7 m endroit = 12 mailles A5 : 6 m endroit (est ce là que je fais mes augmentations A 6 : 8 m endroit, 1 jeté, 1 m endroit, 1 jeté Maille centrale = 11 mailles J'ai 135 mailles et alors le rang 13 j'ai 2 jetés à faire (j'aurais 137 mailles donc de trop) Merci car j'ai beaucoup à apprendre

29.11.2021 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Richard, au 11ème rang des diagrammes vous augmentez 2 m dans A.4 (= 8+2 = 10 m) et dans A.6 (= 9+2=11 m) et 11 mailles entre = vous aurez: 2 m point mousse, A.4 (= 11 m ), A.5 (= 36+6m), A.6 (= 12 m) + 1 m jersey + A.4 (= 11 m ), A.5 (= 36+6m), A.6 (= 12 m) + 2 m point mousse + 12 m augmentées à intervalles réguliers (6 de chaque côté de la m centrale) =2+11+42+12+1+11+42+12+2=135 m. Bon tricot!

29.11.2021 kl. 15:55

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais savoir s'il n'y a pas d'erreur au niveau A 4 A 5 A6 Au dernier rang c'est à dire au rang 13 j'ai 139 mailles au lieu de 135 A 5 étant un multiple de 6 c'est à dire j'ai 36 mailles fois xx je bloque au niveau des 12 augmentations je vous remercie de votre réponse qui me sera très utile

27.11.2021 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Richard, vérifiez que vous avez bien le bon nombre d'augmentations (= 8 dans chaque A.4 ) et 12 dans chaque A.6 pour avoir: 2 m point mousse, 11 m A.4, 36 m A.5, 12 m A.6, 1 m centrale, 36 m A.5, 12 m A.6, 2 m point mousse = 123+12=135 m. Les 12 augmentations sont à faire en plus de celles des diagrammes - répartissez-les pour augmenter 6 m de chaque côté de la maille centrale. En espérant que ça puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

29.11.2021 kl. 08:38

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Merci de la réponse, mais j'abandonne

22.10.2021 - 10:09

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Bonjour, est ce que DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk (gris bleu (unicolour6235))et // DROPS Kid-Silk (bleu jeans (unicolour27)) s'associent ensemble, avant de commander la laine j'aimerais savoir. après plusieurs contact avec divers magasins aucun n'est susceptible de me renseigner. Ne me renvoyer pas au convertisseur. Vous êtes les mieux placés pour me répondre. Merci d'avance j'ai déjà fait plusieurs modèle de votre collection et j'espère continuer. Merci

22.10.2021 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Richard, contactez l'un des magasins qui a ces deux couleurs en stock, ils pourront ainsi plus facilement vous renseigner en fonction des nuances de bain actuelles, ou bien vous orienter sur un autre choix. Bon tricot!

22.10.2021 kl. 09:34

country flag Julie wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterai réaliser ce châle, mais avec deux pelotes différentes. Est-ce qu'elles s'associent bien ensemble et est-ce que le dessin sera bien mis en valeur ? Combien me faudra-t-il de pelotes de chaque afin de le réaliser ? Voici les pelotes : DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk (gris bleu (unicolour6235)) // DROPS Kid-Silk (bleu jeans (unicolour27))) Merci de votre réponse

09.10.2021 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Julie, pour toute question sur les couleurs, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin, même par téléphone ou par mail; pour la quantité Baby Alpaca Silk, vous pouvez utiliser le convertisseur (remplacez Alpaca par BabyAlpaca Silk), La quantité de Kid-Silk restera la même. Bon tricot!

11.10.2021 kl. 07:23

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