DROPS Extra / 0-1099

Coq Au Vin by DROPS Design

DROPS Easter: Crochet DROPS hen wine cover in "Eskimo".

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-527
Yarn group E or C + C
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Measurements: Circumference base: approx. 55-55 cm / 21½''-21½" Height: approx. 30-35 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/4"
Fits wine bag: 2-3 liters

Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
300 g color no 24, yellow
100 g color no 08, red

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm/I/9 – or size needed to get 13 sc x 14 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTON: COCONUT NO 515: 2-3 pieces
DROPS BUTTON: ENGRAVED NO 525: 2-2 pieces

ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling

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100% Wool
from 2.00 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round/row with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (applies to wings):
At beg of every row with sc work 1 ch (ch not counted in no of sc).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc by working 2 sc in same sc.

DEC INFO-1:
Crochet 2 sc tog into 1 sc as follows: * Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

DEC INFO-2 (applies to beak):
Crochet 3 sc tog into 1 sc as follows: * Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, make a YO and pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook.

SC IN A CIRCLE (applies to legs):
After last sc on 1st round, work 1 sc in next sc (= 1st sc from beg of 1st round), then work in the round with 1 sc in every sc.
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HEN WINE COVER:
Work back and forth from head and down. Work 6 ch on hook size 5.5 mm with yellow.
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc), 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch = 6 sc. Turn.
ROW 2: READ CROCHET INFO-1. Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in each of the next 5 sc = 11 sc, turn.
ROW 3: Work 2 sc in every sc = 22 sc. Turn.
ROW 4: Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
Repeat 4th row 10 more times.
Now work the body as follows:
ROW 1: READ INCREASE TIP! Work 1 sc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sc evenly = 28 sc. Turn.
ROW 2 (and then on every even numbered row): Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 3: 1 sc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sc evenly = 34 sc. Turn.
ROW 5: 1 sc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sc evenly = 40 sc. Turn.
Continue to inc 6 sc evenly on every other row until there are 52 sc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROW 11: * 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 56 sc. Turn.
ROW 13: * 1 sc in each of the next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 60 sc. Turn.
ROW 15: * 1 sc in each of the next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 64 sc. Turn.
Continue to work 1 sc more between inc every other row until there are 72 sc on row. Turn.
ROW 20: Work 1 sc in every sc.
Continue to work 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 30-35 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/4" measured from the top. Fasten off.

BASE:
Worked in the round. Work 4 ch on hook size 5.5 mm/I/9 with yellow and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: REMEMBER CROCHET INFO-1! Work 6 sc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 7: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sc.
ROUNDS 9-12: Then work 1 sc more between inc = 72 sc on last round. Bottom measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'' in diameter. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Place last row on body edge to edge with last round on base (= 72 sc) with RS outwards and work with yellow as follows: Work 1 sc in every sc through both layers, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 72 sc. Fasten off.

LEG:
Worked in the round. Work 6 ch on hook size 5.5 mm with red and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 1 sc in every ch = 6 sc. Then work SC IN A CIRCLE - see explanation above - for approx. 20 cm / 8''. Then work 1 round while inc 4 sc evenly = 10 sc. Work 1 round without inc, 1 round while inc 4 sc evenly = 14 sc. Work 1 round without inc. Cut the yarn - fold last round in two and sew tog so that it is flat. Work another leg the same way.

WING:
Worked back and forth. Work 4 ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 5.5 mm with yellow.
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc = 3 sc. Turn.
ROW 2: READ CROCHET INFO-2. Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc = 5 sc. Turn.
ROW 4: 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 5: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc = 7 sc. Turn.
Continue working 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 15-18 cm / 6''-7". Now work with dec as follows:
ROW 1: READ CROCHET INFO-1. Work 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc tog = 5 sc. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog = 3 sc. Turn.
ROW 4:Work 1 sc in every sc. Fasten off.
Work another wing the same way.

BEAK:
Work 3 ch on hook size 5.5 mm with red.
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc), work 2 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next ch = 5 sc. Turn.
ROW 2: REMEMBER CROCHET INFO-1! Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc = 7 sc. Turn.
ROWS 4-8: Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 9: Work 1 sc in first sc, * 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 5 sc. Turn.
ROW 10: Work 1 sc in every sc. Turn.
ROW 11: Work 1 sc, work 3 sc tog - READ DEC INFO-2, 1 sc in next sc = 3 sc. Turn.
ROW 12: Work 3 sc tog. Fasten off.

BUTTON BAND:
Left band:
ROW 1: Work up from RS 23-29 sc evenly along edge with yellow up until approx. 10 cm / 4'' remain from the top. Cut the yarn.
ROW 2: Work straps, beg from RS as follows: Skip the first 7 sc (= this is for the tab of the wine bag), work 1 sc in next sc, * ch 3, skip 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 0-1 more time, ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc. Fasten off.
Right band:
ROW 1: Work up from WS 23-29 sc evenly along edge up until approx. 10 cm / 4'' remain from the top - adjust according to left band. Fasten off.

COMB:
Work 15 ch on hook size 5.5 mm/I/9 with red. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc), work 1 sc in every ch = 15 sc. Hold piece flat with left hand while working ch-space back in these sc and ch as follows: Work 12 ch, fasten with 1 sc in first sc (= 1 space), work 12 ch, fasten with 1 sc in first ch (= 1 space), * work 12 ch, fasten with 1 sc in next ch (= 1 space), work 12 ch, fasten with 1 sc in next sc (= 1 space) *, repeat from *-* 12 more times = 28 ch-spaces.

ASSEMBLY:
Place piece edge to edge from head and down to band and sew tog with yellow. Place left band over right band and sew neatly tog at the top, fasten off. Sew coconut button on right side directly inside band.
Sew on comb as follows: Beg approx. 5 cm / 2'' down from top of head mid front, and sew comb to head and down approx. 5 cm / 2'' at the back.
Sew on 2 engraved button for eyes approx. 3 cm / 1'' from beg of comb and approx. 1.5 cm / ½'' between each eye.
Fold beak in 2 and fasten it approx. 2.5 cm / 7/8'' below eyes.
Fasten a wing by placing dec parallel with row on body, measure approx. 12-15 cm / 4 3/4"-6" straight down from top of head and approx. 5 cm / 2'' out to the side (NOTE! Only sew around the top so that wing hangs loosely at the bottom). Sew the other wing the same way but on opposite side - i.e. approx. 10 cm / 4'' between each wing on the back.
Fasten the 2 legs in under the edge approx. 8 cm / 3'' between each leg. Fill the head with some cotton wool.

FRINGES:
1 FRINGE = Cut 2 lengths of 20 cm / 8'' each. Fold them double and pull loop through 1 sc in base and Then pull yarn ends through the loop. Fasten 1 fringe in approx. every 3rd sc along the base of hen but now over legs. Cut fringes to a length of approx. 6 cm / 2½''.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1099) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

Birthe Nielsen 03.02.2019 - 12:34:

Jeg er ved at lave denne, men synes ikke, den er stor nok til at nå omkring en papvin. Skal posen tages ud af pappen for at den kan være der? mvh Birthe

DROPS Design 06.02.2019 kl. 10:20:

Hej Birthe, ja du tager posen ud inden du stopper den i hønen. Se også vores video hvordan vi gør

How to fill the hen wine cover in DROPS Extra 0-1099 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Carol Baker 26.03.2018 - 20:50:

I would love to make this in a water cooler cover. Could you please tell me how much of each colour of Eskimo yarn I would need ( it is not stated in the pattern :0( ) Thank you.

DROPS Design 28.03.2018 kl. 14:56:

Dear Mrs Baker, you will find the amount of yarn required under the header, ie 300 g Eskimo in yellow and 100 g Eskimo in red. Happy crocheting!

Jeanette Brodie 21.03.2015 - 12:12:

I would love to knit this but I don't crochet. Can it be adapted

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 10:41:

Dear Mrs Brodie, it probably can - you will also find all videos to start crochet and crochet this successfully in our video library - for any further individual assistance you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Sissi 20.03.2015 - 10:42:

You guys have more humor than you seem :)

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