DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 162-19
DROPS design: Pattern no e-231
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L – XL/XXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
300-350-350 g colour no 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 tr x 16 rows with tr = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc 2 tr mid back as follows:
Work until 2 tr remain before marker mid back, work 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr (marker is between these) and 2 tr in next tr (= 2 tr inc).

Inc 4 tr mid back as follows:
Work until 4 tr remain before marker mid back, work 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr each of the next 2 tr (marker is between these) and 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next tr (= 4 tr inc).

INCREASE TIP 2:
Work until 1 tr remains before marker in the side, work 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in next tr (marker is in this tr) and 2 tr in next tr (= 2 tr inc). Repeat the same inc in the other side = 4 sts inc on round.
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SHORTS:
The piece is worked top down.
Work 224-274-326 ch on hook size 2,5 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back.
Work first round as follows: 1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch *, repeat from *-* until 0-2-6 ch remain, work 1 dc in each of these ch = 196-240-286 dc.
READ CROCHET TIP! Continue working 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 2 cm. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Now work an eyelet row as follows: 4 ch, skip 1 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. On next round work 1 dc in every tr and every ch.
Then work the shorts higher in the back as follows: Work 11-12-13 dc past the marker mid back, turn and work 1 sl st in first st, then 1 dc in each of the next 21-23-25 dc, turn and work 1 sl st in first st, then 1 dc in each of the next 32-35-38 sts (sl sts are also worked). Continue like this by working 11-12-13 sts more on every turn until a total of 154-192-208 sts have been worked. Turn again and work until marker mid back.
Continue to work 1 round with dc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-16-2 dc evenly = 224-256-288 dc. Then work pattern (and insert markers) as follows from mid back: 3 tr, A.1 (= 3 tr), * 5 tr, A.1*, repeat from *-* until 2 tr remain, 2 tr, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in each side as follows: Insert a marker in the 3rd tr after 7th-8th-9th repetition A.1, and insert a marker in 3rd tr after 21th-24th-27th repetition with A.1 (i.e. 1 marker in each side). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue pattern A.1X - AT THE SAME TIME inc mid back and in the sides as follows:

SIDES:
Inc on each side of tr with marker, in each side as follows - READ INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat inc every 4th round 7-7-8 times in total = 28-28-32 tr inc.

MID BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-17-19 cm (measured mid front), inc mid back as follows – Read INCREASE TIP-1. Repeat inc with 2 tr mid back every round 10 times in total, and repeat inc with 4 tr every round 2-2-3 times = 28-28-32 tr inc.

There are now 280-312-352 tr on round. Now piece measures approx. 22-24-27 cm mid front and 27-29-32 cm mid back. Now divide for legs as follows: Work 1 sl st in each of the first 5-6-6 tr on round, turn and work 1 tr in each of the first 10-12-12 tr (i.e. 5-6-6 sts on each side of marker mid back). These 10-12-12 tr = gusset. Work tr back and forth over these tr. When piece measures 4-5-6 cm, dec 1 tr in each side, repeat dec when piece measures 8-9-10 cm = 6-8-8 tr. Continue with 1 tr in every tr until gusset measures 11-12-13 cm, cut the yarn. Fasten gusset edge to edge to the middle 6-8-8 sts towards mid front. Then work the legs.


LEG:
Work 1 tr in each of the 132-146-166 tr around one leg (i.e. work 1 tr in every tr in A.1X and 1 tr in ch-space = 3 tr), in addition work 28-31-34 tr along the gusset = 160-177-200 tr. Work 2 rounds with tr AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 0-3-0 tr evenly by working 2 tr in 1 tr = 160-180-200 tr.

Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr * , repeat from *-* until 1 tr remains, 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 2: 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 1 tr in ch-space, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round until 1 ch-space remains, 1 tr in ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on round.
ROUND 3: Now work pattern as follows: Work pattern according to diagram A.2 over the first 10 tr, continue with A.3 the entire round. Finish every round with 1 sl st at beg of round. REMEMBER CROCHET INFO! Continue like this until pattern A.2-A.3 have been worked vertically. Fasten off. Work the other leg the same way.


TIES:
Work 130-140-150 cm with LOOSE ch, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch. Thread the tie in the row with eyelet holes at the top of shorts – start mid front

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.02.2015
Corrected info about where to place markers in the sides.
Updated online: 01.06.2015
under SHORTS (...until 2 dc remain, 2 tr, NOT, until 2 tr remain, 2 tr...):

....Then work pattern (and insert markers) as follows from mid back: 3 tr, A.1 (= 3 tr), * 5 tr, A.1*, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain, 2 tr, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in each side as follows:....
Updated online: 03.06.2015
Correction: SHORTS: The piece is worked top down. Work 224-274-326 ch on hook size 2,5 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back.
Updated online: 07.05.2019
Correction: Diagram A.1 has been edited to A.1 and A.1X "When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with pattern A.1X"

Diagram

symbols = tr around ch-space (1st round= tr in tr)
symbols = dc in tr
symbols = ch
symbols = 7 ch
symbols = dc around ch-space
symbols = sl st in ch
symbols = 1st round beg here
symbols = Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more in same tr. On last pull through, pull yarn through all YOs on hook
symbols = double tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 162-19

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Comments / Questions (157)

country flag Emanuela wrote:

Buongiorno, avviando 224 catenelle, come indicato per una tg. S/M, mi viene un giro vita larghissimo. È possibile che sbagli qualcosa? Grazie

16.03.2024 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Emanuela, non ci sono errori nel numero di catenelle di avvio, nel primo giro vengono diminuite. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2024 - 18:18

country flag Laura Silvestri wrote:

Buonasera. Sono arrivata a finire il giro di maglie alte che suddivise in 3, 5, 3, 5 .. costituiscono il diagramma A1. Devo iniziare A1x, ora vedendo il video, si osserva che il motivo è preceduto da 1 maglia saltata così come dopo, questo riduce le maglie lavorate ai lati del motivo a 3 invece che 5 ma in figura con la modella ne conto sempre 5. Forse omi servirebbe uno schema più ampio che descriver il modello A1 ed A1x così da capire le ripetizioni. Grazie

14.01.2024 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Laura, non ci sono errori nel modello. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2024 - 21:09

country flag Caroline wrote:

Bonjour, je suis à 6 rgs de brides et j'ai déjà 5 cm de hauteur. Pour les augm. milieu du dos, que me conseilleriez vous pour avoir la bonne dimension : dois je commencer les diminutions un peu avant 15 cm ou faire moins d'augmentations (au lieu de 10 fois tous les tours, j en fais moins (8 par ex. ?) Merci !

17.09.2023 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Caroline, votre tension en hauteur n'a pas l'air juste, essayez de tirer vos brides un peu moins en hauteur, ce sera bien plus simple, sinon vous devrez effectivement faire les ajustements nécessaires pour avoir la bonne forme et les bonnes mesures en fonction de votre propre tension et des mesures à obtenir - votre magasin peut vous y aider (même par mail ou téléphone); ou bien vous pouvez aussi demander à d'autres crocheteuses via notre DROPS Workshop; merci pour votre compréhension.. Bon crochet!

18.09.2023 - 08:37

country flag Caroline wrote:

En même temps, ces 225 brides me permettent de pouvoir avoir 4 brides entre les futures augmentations comme vous me l'avez expliqué. Donc ça doit bien faire 225 ml au total

13.09.2023 - 09:01

country flag Caroline wrote:

Bonjour, après les 2 rangs (1 rang brides avec marqueurs "5 brides -2 brides", 2 rg point fantaisie) en recomptant, j'ai 224 brides + 3 ml en l'air=225 ml. Est ce normal

13.09.2023 - 08:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Caroline, vous devez avoir 224 mailles, la 1ère bride est remplacée par 3 mailles en l'air, cela vient peut-être de là?

13.09.2023 - 13:18

country flag Cattaneo wrote:

Rebonjour, merci pour vos précisions concernant l augmentation des côtés. J'ai bien compris. Mais pour être bien sûre, ces augmentations il faut les démarrer après les rangs : 1 rang de brides (A1), 1 rang point fantaisie (Ax), donc au 3eme rang ou alors en même temps que le rang Ax ? Après je serai sûre de moi, merci 🙂

12.09.2023 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cattaneo, vous crochetez d'abord A.1 en hauteur (= 3 rangs) puis répétez A.X en augmentant en même temps au 1er rang de A.X, autrement dit, les 3 premiers rangs de A.1 se font sans augmenter, vous ne commencez à augmenter que lorsque vous crochetez A.X la 2ème fois en hauteur. Bon crochet!

12.09.2023 - 17:17

country flag Cattaneo wrote:

Bonjour, concernant l\'augmentation sur les côtés , dans la 3eme bride après le 7eme et 21eme motif: le \"motif\" c\'est bien \"3 brides-5 brides\" et on augmente dans la 3eme bride des 5 brides ? Et quand vous dites \"après le 7eme motif\" c\'est donc au 8eme motif ou alors dans le 7eme motif (c\'est pas clair pour moi car c\'est écrit \"après\".

11.09.2023 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cattaneo, vous allez mettre un marqueur dans la bride au milieu des 5 brides entre 2 A.1, vous aurez ainsi: le 7ème A.1 depuis le début du tour, 2 brides, 1 bride avec 1 marqueur, 2 brides, continuez avec alternativement A.1 et 5 brides, puis après le 21 ème A.1, vous aurez à nouveau 2 brides 1 bride avec 1 marqueur, 2 brides, continuez alternativement avec A.1 et 5 brides jusqu'à la fin du tour. En espérant que ce soit plus clair ainsi. Bon crochet!

12.09.2023 - 09:04

country flag Cattaneo wrote:

Bonjour, juste une précision : comme j'ai dû recommencer, au niveau du rang A1 où l'on fait 224 brides avant de faire le rang A1x, il faut inclure les 3 ml en l air dans les 224 brides où c'est 224 brides + 3 ml en l'air ?

06.09.2023 - 08:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cattaneo, les 3 mailles en l'air du début du rang remplacent la 1ère bride (cf. INFO CROCHET, ainsi, vous devez avoir 3 mailles en l'air + 223 brides au total. Bon crochet!

06.09.2023 - 09:26

country flag Cattaneo wrote:

Je reviens concernant le début du rang fantaisie, il est écrit : "3 B, A.1 (= 3 B), *5 B, A.1*, répéter de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 ms, 2 B", donc il y a 3 brides non travaillées en début de rang et 2 brides en fin de rang = 5 brides où il faudra faire les augmentations à partir de 15 cm (2 augm.) : 2 brides +3 ml en l'air+2 brides. Est ce bien ça ?

05.09.2023 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cattaneo, effectivement, vous avez bien 3 brides au début + 2 brides à la fin du tour pour en avoir 5 comme partout autour; et vous augmentez ensuite 4 brides au milieu dos (d'abord 1 bride puis 2 de chaque côté du milieu dos, soit d'abord 2 brides au total puis 4 brides). En même temps, vous augmenterez sur les côtés (2 brides de chaque côté). Bon crochet!

05.09.2023 - 13:46

country flag LES GRANDS CHAMPS wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai dû redefaire car le nb de mailles n allait pas. Du coup, je repars sur A1 (5 brides, 3 brides). Il faut donc faire un rang de brides ? Après ce rang, on fait le point fantaisie Ax : "5 brides et sur les 3 brides du rand précédent on fait les 2 x 2 brides écoulées ensemble" ? J ai du mal à être conforme au modèle mais je voudrais vraiment y arriver pour faire ce short pour ma fille ! Merci beaucoup.

05.09.2023 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Les grands champs, pour être certaine que vous aurez bien les mêmes mesures que dans le schéma pour la taille choisie, pensez à bien vérifier votre échantillon et en largeur et en hauteur et adaptez la taille du crochet si besoin. Le 2ème rang de A.1 (= 2ème rang de A.1X) se crochète ainsi: *sautez 1 bride, dans la bride suivante, crochetez: 2 brides écoulées ensemble, 1 maille en l'air, 2 brides écoulées ensemble, sautez 1 bride*, répétez de *à* pour chaque A.1X; au 2ème tour et suivants, crochetez de (à) dans l'arceau entre les 2 brides écoulées ensemble du tour précédent. Bon crochet!

05.09.2023 - 13:42