DROPS / 139 / 28

Summer Fancy by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS shorts in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXL.

Tags: pants, shorts,
DROPS design: Pattern no E-187
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 g colour no 06, denim blue.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 26 dc x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Replace first dc at beg of every round with 1 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 2 dc remain before marker mid back, work 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc (marker is between these sts) and 2 dc in next dc (= 2 sts inc).
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SHORTS:
The piece is worked top down.
Crochet 224-246-274-297-326 ch on hook size 3 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back.
Work first round as follows: 1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch *, repeat from *-* until 0-6-2-1-6 ch remain, work 1 dc in each of these ch = 196-216-240-260-286 dc. READ CROCHET TIP! Continue working 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 2 cm. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Now work 1 round with eyelet holes as follows: 4 ch, skip 1 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. On next round work 1 dc in every tr and every ch.
Then work the shorts higher in the back as follows: Work 10-11-12-13-14 dc past the marker mid back, turn and work 1 sl st in first st, then 1 dc in each of the next 19-21-23-25-27 dc, turn and work 1 sl st in first st, then 1 dc in each of the next 29-32-35-38-41 sts (also work in the sl st). Continue like this by working 10-11-12-13-14 sts more on every turn until a total of 140-154-192-208-224 sts have been worked. Turn again and work until marker mid back.
Continue to work 1 round with dc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-16-18-20-22 dc evenly = 210-232-258-280-308 dc. Continue with dc in the round until piece measures 14-15-16-17-19 cm mid front.
Continue with dc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts mid back - SEE INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every other round a total of 7-7-7-8-8 times and then every round 7-7-7-8-8 times = 238-260-286-312-340 dc. Now piece measures approx. 21-22-23-25-27 cm mid front and 26-27-29-31-33 cm mid back. Now divide for legs as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 5-5-6-6-7 dc on round, turn and work back over the first 10-10-12-12-14 dc (i.e. 5-5-6-6-7 sts on each side of marker mid back). These 10-10-12-12-14 dc = gusset. Work dc back and forth over these sts for 10-11-12-13-14 cm, cut the thread. Fasten gusset edge to edge to the middle 10-10-12-12-14 sts towards mid front. Then work the legs.

LEG:
Work 1 dc in each of the 109-120-131-144-156 dc around the leg, work in addition 26-28-31-34-36 dc along the gusset = 135-148-162-178-192 dc. Work 1 round with dc while at the same time inc 1-4-6-6-8 dc evenly = 136-152-168-184-200 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc for 3-3-4-4-5 cm. Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 68-76-84-92-100 ch-loops).
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in every ch and 1 dc in every tr = 136-152-168-184-200 dc.
ROUND 3: Work as 1st round.
ROUND 4: 1 ch, * skip 1 ch-loop, in next ch-loop work 7 dtr, skip 1 ch-loop and work 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* around the entire leg but instead of 1 dc work 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round (= 17-19-21-23-25 dtr-groups = fans).
ROUND 5: 1 dc in first tr on first fan, [* 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times (i.e. 3 picots over 1 fan), 1 dc in first tr on next fan], repeat from [-] the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Cut the thread.

Work the same way around the other leg.

TIE:
Work 120-130-140-150-160 cm with LOOSE ch, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch. Thread the tie in the round with eyelet holes at the top of shorts – start mid front.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.04.2012
LEG: ..ROUND 4: 1 ch, * skip 1 ch-loop, in next ch-loop work 7 dtr, skip 1 ch-loop and work 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* around the entire leg but instead of 1 dc work 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round (= 17-19-21-23-25 dtr-groups = fans).

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (105)

Duvillers Jeannine 12.05.2020 - 16:26:

Vergeten te melden op 10 cm haak ik 20 vaste

DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 11:19:

Dag Jeannine,In dat geval zou je dus 20 steken minder op moeten zetten om 10 cm minder omtrek te krijgen. :)

Duvillers Jeannine 12.05.2020 - 15:20:

Ik wil dit model voor mijn kleindochter maken taille 67 cm heupen 84 cm Ik weet niet hoeveel steken ik moet opzetten, minderen etc wat kan u me aanraden? Alvast bedankt

DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 11:18:

Dag Jeannine,

Op basis van de stekenverhouding en het aantal opgegeven steken zou je om kunnen rekenen hoeveel steken je op moet zetten en hoeveel je moet meerderen/minderen, etc. Bijvoorbeeld in maat S moet je 224 steken opzetten. Als je de taille 10 cm minder in omtrek wilt maken, zou je bij een steken verhouding van 26 vasten = 10 cm, dus 26 steken minder op moeten zetten. Op dezelfde manier kun je berekenen hoeveel steken je ter hoogte van de heup moet hebben en hoeveel je daarvoor zou moeten meerderen.

Ana Maria 08.05.2020 - 23:31:

Hola muy buenas. Seria bien si tendria una foto del pantalon tambien de atras. Muchas gracias

Cathrin Kluge 06.04.2020 - 11:58:

Leider ist die Short nach dieser Anleitung NICHT realisierbar. Wie schon weiter unten erwähnt, stimmt die Maschenprobe nicht mit der auf dem Etikett der Wolle überein. Dort werden nur 24 Ma. für 10 cm Breite benötigt. Dies spiegelt sich natürlich in der Summe im Umfang wieder! Ich habe versucht mit Nadel-Nr. 1,75 zu häkeln und habe dabei bei Größe S ganz 6 cm mehr Umfang, somit ist die gesamte Hose nach dieser Anleitung in Größe S nicht tragbar. Neue Anleitung wäre ausgezeichnet!

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 15:20:

Liebe Frau Kluge, mit 26 M = 10 cm sollen Sie bei der Größe S die 196 fM am Anfang = ca 76 cm Umfang = 38 cm flach gemessen und die 238 M (nach allen Zunahmen) ca 92 cm Umfang = 46 cm flach gemessen. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Cathrin Kluge 30.03.2020 - 16:22:

Hallo, bevor der Sommer kommt, wollte ich die Hose gern häkeln, stoße aber auf folgendes Problem: was bedeutet dies konkret: "Jetzt die Erhöhung hinten in der Mitte wie folgt: 10-11-12-13-14 fM an der Markierung vorbei häkeln, die Arbeit drehen und 1 Kettm in die erste M. häkeln,..." ... an der Markierung vorbeihäkeln ... was bedeutet dies? Vielen Dank vorab!

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 17:06:

Liebe Frau Kluge, Sie sollen jetzt verkürtzten Reihen häkeln damit es mehr Reihe hinten als vorne gibt. Beginnen Sie mit einer Hinreihe und häkeln Sie 10-11-12-13-14 fM nach der Markierung (in der Mitte hinten), wenden Sie und 1 Kettm in die erste M. häkeln, dann 1 fM in der nächsten 19-21-23-25-27 fM, wenden und wie erklärt weiter häkeln, dh Sie häkeln nur einpaar Maschen in Reihen und nicht alle von der Runde. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Ruscheinski Barbara 12.03.2020 - 12:04:

Ich hab bei diesem Modell Nadelstärke 3 und 2,5 und 2 (was schon etwas schwierig,war) ausprobiert und ich kam nie auf die Maschenprobe obwohl ich das Original-Garn habe. HILFE Dringend

DROPS Design 12.03.2020 kl. 15:00:

Liebe Frau Ruscheinski, je nach dem Grund gibt es sicher irgendwelche Lösung; wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, oder bei DROPS Workshop kann vielleicht andere Häkelerinnen mit helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Diane 04.09.2019 - 01:19:

I find these patterns to be so frustrating to comprehend the way they are written ... what's wrong with writing them as Rnd 1, Rnd 2, Rnd 3, and/or Row 1, Row 2, Row 3, etc.,?! I love crocheting even the most challenging of patterns but the way DROPS write them I don't care to invest my time (or tears)!

DROPS Design 04.09.2019 kl. 09:14:

Dear Diane, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Jessi 30.07.2019 - 20:57:

Hallo, mir hat die Anleitung so gut gefallen, dass ich gleich los gehäkelt habe. Ich habe auch schon ein gutes Stück gehäkelt und jetzt habe ich das Problem, dass die Naht des Rundenüberganges deutlich sichtbar ist und mit jeder Reihe schräger verläuft, so dass ich nicht mehr in der Mitte der Häkelstückes raus komme. Mache ich da einen Fehler? Habe mir schon viele Anleitungen zum Rundenübergang angesehen, aber ich bekomme immer eine schiefe Naht.

DROPS Design 31.07.2019 kl. 09:25:

Liebe Jessi, das ist normal und liegt an der Form der Maschen. Wenn Sie sich das Tutorial-Video zum Häkeln in Runden mit festen Maschen anschauen, sehen Sie, dass auch dort der Verlauf des Rundenbeginns leicht schräg ist. Einen unsichtbaren Rundenbeginn erhalten Sie, wenn Sie die Runde nicht mit einer Kett-Masche beenden, sondern einfach immer weiter in Runden häkeln. Dann müssen Sie sich den Rundenbeginn gut markieren, damit Sie wissen, wo Sie zunehmen müssen.

Melli 09.09.2018 - 13:00:

Hallo, ich stecke fest bei dem Abschnitt "Total 7-7-7-8-8 Mal bei jeder 2.Runde . Danach 7-7-7-8-8 Mal bei jeder Runde = 238-260-286-312-340 fM. " Ich verstehe, dass ich bei den nächsten 3 Runden je 7, bei den beiden darauf je 8 Maschen aufnehme. Frage: werden die auf die ganze Runde verteilt oder nur hinten, wie in der Runde davor?

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 09:12:

Liebe Melli, diese Zunahmen sind hinten in der Mitte gehäkelt (siehe TIPP ZUM AUFNEHMEN - es wird jeweils 2 Maschen zugenommen): zuerst 7-8 Mal bei jeder Runde (= 1 Rde mit Zunahme, 1 Rde ohne Zunahme) x 7-8 Mal und dann bei jeder Runde (= 7-8 Runde mit Zunahmen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Ellen 14.03.2017 - 11:04:

Hoeveel bolletjes garen heb ik nodig voor het maken van deze short in maat M/L ?? mvg Ellen

DROPS Design 14.03.2017 kl. 14:48:

Hoi Ellen. Bovenaan het patroon staat hoeveel je nodig hebt. Er is een maat M of een L (niet M/L): Maat: S - M - L - XL - XXL Materiaal: DROPS SAFRAN van Garnstudio 200-250-250-300-300 gr. kleur nr. 06, jeansblauw. De afmetingen voor elke maat staat onderaan het patroon. Je kan hier vergelijken en je maat kiezen.

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